Premium 27 inch tires?
#26
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Blackwall tires are Schwinn Varsity, or mod disc brake appearing bikes, Sears AMF, roadsters.
I am an elitist.
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#27
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IMO- the starting point is the regular Pasela, the 'flat protection' Paselas are good- they ride well and have decent flat protection, and the Swift Tire Sand Canyon tires are nice as well- but I haven't used the super supple version.
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#28
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The rims are Weinmann A129. They're not hooked or anodized. The Marathons are on Weinmann 416 rims. Those are hooked and anodized and came with the Schwinn. I wasn't aware that any rim was either compatible with folding or wire-beaded tires and not both. I just thought the one had kevlar bead cords and the other steel wire. Should I wonder if the folding Protites will work on the A129 rims?
When I first got my Rudge, with original Dunlop Special Lightweight rims (chromed ones, not stainless), I got the Specialized Road Sport wired-ons to fit the OEM rims. They were a perfect fit! I rode them a little at 90 psi and at 65, and the ride just got softer and smoother. I'm still getting the lightweight Sturmey hub working (have an Alloy FM laced up) so I haven't ridden the Roadsports more than this. I also have a set of Protites, and we'll see which tire wins out!
I guess my main points are:
I totally agree with Repechage' point, test it and trust your testing, don't guess and don't just listen to what the LBS says. We will (usually!!) test with 100 miles of riding, or until the rim lets go of the tire. LBS tests enough to get the bike into the owner's hands and can watch it go down the street. Which test is more significant?
Older, non-hooked alloy rims of quite decent quality are still out there. Some new wire-bead clincher tires, such as the Protite, some Swiftires, and the Specialized Roadsport are still out there. The National and Panasonic products are among the most supple, but the Specialized felt good to me in my short rides.
Last edited by Road Fan; 08-10-23 at 05:27 AM.
#29
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I agree, Silca has not looked at non-hooked rims, but I think if a bead is firmly held by the installation (i.e. it is installed correctly on a rim which is designed to take it), the physics they are testing has primarily to do with tire casings, sidewall finishing and impregnation, and the designs of the tire casing in the sidewall and tread areas. So I use their pressure recommendations on essentially all styles including wider tubulars. I don't use it on narrow 21 mm tubulars because I've never liked to ride them over 105 psi, even at my current weight. But 32 mm tires of all sorts have a trade-off between suppleness and control regardless of the casing closure and the casing itself.
Another point is, I think we all agree that a change to 700c offers more flexibility and "future-proofs" the usefulness of a great old bike, due to the availability of high-quality modern and specialized tires. But if you need to match a wheel design which has been obsoleted, like the Raleigh tradition for 40 spokes rear / 32 spokes front, the availability of modern parts may well be quite limited. Another limitation is the trend toward disks, and of eliminating flat sidewalls which facilitate rim brakes.
Another point is, I think we all agree that a change to 700c offers more flexibility and "future-proofs" the usefulness of a great old bike, due to the availability of high-quality modern and specialized tires. But if you need to match a wheel design which has been obsoleted, like the Raleigh tradition for 40 spokes rear / 32 spokes front, the availability of modern parts may well be quite limited. Another limitation is the trend toward disks, and of eliminating flat sidewalls which facilitate rim brakes.
#30
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I've always had flat issues with the Conti' Ultras. When I commuted it was with the Gators. Panracers are a good overall tire.
#31
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