SwingNinja

I'm trying to troubleshoot a recuring issue with my bike chain (single speed). It breaks quite often, but at the quick link (also single speed type). I've wasted 2-3 of them so far. So, I'm trying to understand what's going on. Is it just weak by design? Should I put a permanent link on it instead? Many youtube videos seem to like the quicklink solution.

shelbyfv

What brand chain and link?

JohnDThompson 

Are you using 1/8" (single-speed/track) chain or 3/32" (derailleur-type) chain? If 1/8" chain, try joining the ends directly, instead of using a quick link. Unlike modern derailleur chains, 1/8" chain is pinned, not riveted, so if you don't drive the pin completely out when you trim or open the chain, you can push the same pin back in when you rejoin the ends.

KerryIrons

The fact that the chain is breaking frequently suggests you have it too tight. This puts extreme stress on the chain, resulting in breakage. As JohnD noted, if the chain is wider than a modern derailleur chain, a chain tool should allow you to just use a chain pin with no issues. But if the chain is too tight, that won't help much.

FBinNY 

THIS

I feel like an old broken record having to repeat "THE RIGHT CHAIN TENSION IS NO TENSION". It's reached the point when I cringe when I hear someone ask how to properly tension a chain. We need a new word there so noobs aren't fooled into believing that it's necessary. Running a chain without slack that will vary slightly from a bit to a slight but visible droop is the kiss of death.

79pmooney

FB, easy. I set chain slack. Prefer 1/2" to 3/4" total play up and down at mid chainstay but not so high quality chainrings sometimes have me pushing both limits.

Chain slack, not chain tension. They really are slackers. They love just hanging around doing nothing until you drag them out for a ride. If you keep them under tension, watch out! They'll be institution bound before you know it. (If you are sharp enough to have them committed before they snap.)

FBinNY 

I agree totally, and only prefer less slack than you because I ride fixed (not trendy, since 1969) and prefer minimal backlash. My drivetrain is of good enough quality to work close to zero without issues.

BTW I don't have issues when experienced people talk about "tension" because we're on the same page. My issue is that we have large numbers of folks going SS or fixed, and working hard on getting ALL the slack out. It probably would br so problematic if it weren't that the last time they rode SS, their dad (or mom) fixed their 20" coaster brake bike.

alcjphil

This sort of reminds me of my first bike. I had just learned how to ride so my dad bought me a bike. It was a fixed gear. I was just a beginner and the bike had no brakes other than back pedalling, but that was fine with me, all I wanted was to have my own bike having learned to ride on my aunt's 28" wheel roadster. Well, I broke the chain several times in the first couple of weeks that I rode that bike and my dad took it back to where he had bought it.
To replace it he bought me an 18" wheel BSA bike that had a rear coaster brake and a front rod operated brake. I loved that bike and so did my brother and cousin who both also rode it

Tommygunxs

do you have the right size on the quick link?, I have quick link on my bikes and it never breaks and I use my bike a loot.

Dan Burkhart 

Totally agree and this is the main reason I am not a fan of drive belts. The tension required puts far too much stress on drive components.
I have had this discussion with Aaron Goss and to use his words, belts are for pants.

Schweinhund

Put a good BMX chain and a real master link and your problems will go away. Quick links are great on multispeed bikes or to save weight.
Not so much running fixed. thin side plates are not conducive to durability.
Multispeed chains are riveted. Why? Shift quality.
BMX chains are made to be strong in a straight pull configuration, no compromise.
Multispeed chains are a compromise.
BMX is what it is, straight up brute force.
a real BMX master link