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help me to choose the right spokes

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Old 09-24-23, 01:29 PM
  #26  
esasjl
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Originally Posted by Kontact
I like and use Revolutions, but you should have a reason to use super light spokes. If the build isn't going to be super light itself, why put yourself through the chore of building with them and dealing with wind up?
I'd expect the thinner spokes to reduce peak dynamic forces within the wheel. This should increase fatigue resistance but also increase resilience to road surface defects; bigger tyres also help here. I get about a 1/4 turn wind-up at 100 kgf spoke tension. Lasers should take 250 kgf if Sapim's 1500 N/mm^2 'strength' is yield rather than ultimate so strength is not an issue. It may also be that the greater spoke stretch also distributes load over more spokes?
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Old 09-24-23, 01:46 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
Wheel strength and spoke longevity aren't really the same thing.
Technically correct, but semantically a distinction without a difference.

While I agree with you, I accept that when people speak about wheel strength, they usually mean durability.
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Old 09-24-23, 02:57 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by DiTBho
so what is the advantage of having cone and ball hubs?
Shimano marketing? CCB is traditional, adjustable, you can replace the cone and balls. Downsides: you have to adjust them, you can't (generally) replace the cups.
OTOH the deep groove ball bearing: not adjustable, can't replace components (except balls in some bottom brackets) but can replace entire unit.
If there was any doubt of the ability of the deep groove bearing to resist axial load I'd expect there would be hubs with angular contact bearings, but I've not seen any.
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Old 09-24-23, 05:45 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
Technically correct, but semantically a distinction without a difference.

While I agree with you, I accept that when people speak about wheel strength, they usually mean durability.
Build two identical wheels, but use spokes on one from a known lot with a breakage problem. The wheels will perform identically, but the one with suspect spokes will reach their fatigue limit sooner and have to be replaced if they break.

I know what you are getting at, but "bad spokes" aren't going to make the rim dent easier or go out of true more often. They will either break, or not.
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Old 09-24-23, 06:05 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Kontact
Build two identical wheels, but use spokes on one from a known lot with a breakage problem. The wheels will perform identically, but the one with suspect spokes will reach their fatigue limit sooner and have to be replaced if they break.

I know what you are getting at, but "bad spokes" aren't going to make the rim dent easier or go out of true more often. They will either break, or not.
Like I said. I agree with you, so there's nothing to debate.

It's purely semantics. Whenever a potential client talks about wanting a stronger wheel, I hear a request for one that lasts longer. (except for those few cases, ie. 350# rider) where strength, might be a factor.

Over the years I've often had to deal with the paradox of explaining how my "weaker" build, ie. lighter spokes, can be "stronger" (more durable).

FWIW, I generally don't reuse spokes, and given labor costs, consider doing so to be false economy.
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Old 09-25-23, 06:42 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by FBinNY
FWIW, I generally don't reuse spokes, and given labor costs, consider doing so to be false economy.
Modern spokes should out-last the brake track on an alloy rim and possibly the flange on an aluminum hub. Given the decreased labor necessary for a rim swap by just taping the rims together and moving the spokes over, that seems wasteful to completely rebuild a wheel to replace sturdy steel components that aren't worn out.

Might as well replace the skewer, too.
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Old 09-27-23, 08:17 AM
  #32  
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yesterday I was told that it makes no sense to have type#2 spokes with a 36 holes rim, it only makes sense to have type#3 spokes.

Why?

Last edited by DiTBho; 09-27-23 at 10:35 AM.
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