iab

Stripped of paint. Heading down to Franklin Frame soon. Original paint under the headbadge. Note the nondrive seat stay damage. Like water froze in it. Do you think brass is fine or a full replacement?

Maino Frame 01 by iabisdb, on Flickr

Maino Frame 03 by iabisdb, on Flickr

Maino Frame 09 by iabisdb, on Flickr

Maino Frame 12 by iabisdb, on Flickr

Maino Frame 15 by iabisdb, on Flickr

Maino Frame 21 by iabisdb, on Flickr

Maino Frame 48 by iabisdb, on Flickr

Maino Frame 56 by iabisdb, on Flickr

merziac

@iab

I have no idea on the split but I have a cyclone fence post that is doing that for no apparent reason aside from the elements.

It is on a much larger far worse scale, very bizarre to me.

smontanaro 

You might ask over on the framebuilding forum, though obviously Jack will know how best to repair it. Seat stays are low stress (relative to other tubes). Unless you have a perfect match replacement tube already, the odds that a full replacement matches the drive side perfectly seem pretty low. I would think rolling it out, then filling the crack with brass would be simplest and preserve the tube profile.

smontanaro 

Timing is probably not good, but I will be at Franklin Frame on the 31st to pick up my frame. If yours is ready I'd be happy to drive it back...

panzerwagon 

Love everything in that photo— particularly the fork crown. Looking forward to the rest of your project

Lattz

@iab I was thinking about this bike the other day. Is that RD hanger for GS extra? or whats the catch with the 4o clock stopper?

iab

The 4 o'clock stop was made for the gen 1A and gen 1B GS RD. Both of those versions used a screw as the stop on the derailleur. The gen 1C and every RD forward uses a stop integrated into the upper knuckle for a 7 o'clock stop. Gen 1C was made in 1951 too.

There is a Japanese book called "Derailleurs of the World - Campagnolo" that shows these differences.

iab

Yes, I'm just asking for asking sake. Whatever Jack does will be fine by me.

CV-6 

You knew the job was dangerous when you took it. (Super Chicken, ca 1968)

Lattz

Yes thats why i was asking and actually this came to my mind, because an Extra was lurking on subito for like 80 eur (and I still curse myself I didnt send there my Italian "curator" the day I discovered it) a few weeks ago and those are terrorist expensive normally. But now I see that you will need something rarer than rare.

iab

Yes. CV-6 is correct, I knew what I was getting into when I made the purchase of this cheap frame. It's my weakness, the low cost suckers me into a money pit. I have in my procession gen 1B bronze shift levers and a line on a 1B FD. The RD is definitely has been a bit more elusive, although I was told the levers would be more difficult. I did see a 1C RD at a swap this spring, and I may be being fussy, it is wrong for the dropout. And for the record, I expect to spend a shade more than 80 euro.

Lattz

Oh.... I didnt question that you are able and willing to spend more on such a bike, I would be disappointed if not.
I just said when I saw the 1c or extra this came to my mind not knowing it would not fit. I think an 1k+ derailleur is awesome on any given day for 80 eur even for paperweight.

On the other hand Im happy that at least with pre 70s things i still have some remaining sanity in my head not to buy things what are beyond my pockets. I stare at frames love em for the toothed dropout then think about Cambio Corsa or Roubaix prices and click next.

iab

Back from paint. I'm please as punch, especially the new chrome. More pics here - https://www.flickr.com/photos/681231...77720304290867

Maino 01 by iabisdb, on Flickr

Maino 03 by iabisdb, on Flickr

Maino 05 by iabisdb, on Flickr

Maino 13 by iabisdb, on Flickr

Maino 36 by iabisdb, on Flickr

ultrarunner

Right back at ya! I have the same dropouts on my Lotus :-)

obrentharris 

Either your Lotus is a time traveler or you should look more closely!
Brent

juvela

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...difficult to imagine Tsunoda employing the subject ends...



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ultrarunner

Well, good call...not "exactly" the same drops.

repechage

The two segment front fender was a design that persisted on Italian bikes for decades.

I often have wondered at the root cause, why?

iab

Don't know, don't care. Shorties are cool, that's all I need to know.

Although you can get a 1-piece front too. Not uncommon.

bulgie 

On a racing bike with minimal clearance, a fender can't easily pass beneath the crown without being pushed down into the airspace claimed by the tire and its desired amount of "mud room". On a racing bike that only gets fenders in winter, well, that's when you're more likely to mount larger tires.

Still, on so many old bikes that have the split fenders, it looks like the mud clearance would have been ample even if a one-piece fender had been fitted. So maybe it wasn't so much a requirement as just a "seemed prudent" sorta thing.

Edit: Here's an example of how you can get more tire+mud clearance with a split fender. Shown is a '57 Bianchi owned by John Katsaras, see the whole album here.



You can see how, at least on this bike, it gives more clearance. No way to get the fender up that high, if it passed under the crown and brake.

velomateo

Wow, what great results.
The font on the dropout is super cool, love it.

repechage

and almost impossible to fit a wrench onto that brake, on that bike I would expect for fair weather the forward fender segment would remain.

gugie 

Well that came out very nicely! I really like the curved brake bridge matching the fender curvature, it's a nice touch.

Interested in knowing how the chain stay repair was done. I've seen people cut out the "cancerous" section to get to good metal, then braze in a patch. I have a very interesting old british frame with the same issue.

repechage

@gugie - but that would be telling.

as the Prisoner said upon departure- “be seeing you”.

iab

I believe Jack said he did just that, brazed in a patch. Could not put in a new stay because nothing matched. Not surprising.