Ressurrecting a Free Spirit
#26
I'm good to go!
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I think I support both LBS's and DIY'ers equally. If you want to empower someone, then help the OP by replying to them. Don't sound like a overbearing and ranting person that calls out others for reasons of your own imagination.
It makes no sense to only tell people to DIY.
Good lord. How long does it take to read post 13?
Up until your attack, I would likely have said nothing more here unless the OP introduced more stuff for comment.
#27
seńor miembro
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I did. I have. I do.
Yeah, it's my "imagination" that you constantly shoot down practical DIY advice.
Anyone with a 5th grade literacy level will know otherwise.
Don't sound like a overbearing and ranting person that calls out others for reasons of your own imagination.
Anyone with a 5th grade literacy level will know otherwise.
#28
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5th grade literacy might well enable one to know otherwise. So why did you even start your first post directed at me? If you want to censor for the forum, then first become a Moderator.
#29
seńor miembro
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#30
Newbie
Thread Starter
OP here again. I tried to upload a photo, but couldn’t. The issue is that the crankset is cracking, and the pedal is not leveled anymore. It seems like the pedal could simply break out, what would make it dangerous. Additionally, peddling feels wobbly. I think that the old bearings are dead too.
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#31
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So far you still haven't addressed the OP and instead you continue to argue with me! What does that say for the both of us?
At least I offered something for them to consider. You just chose to criticize another member for giving opinion you didn't agree with.
#32
Newbie
OP here again. I tried to upload a photo, but couldn’t. The issue is that the crankset is cracking, and the pedal is not leveled anymore. It seems like the pedal could simply break out, what would make it dangerous. Additionally, peddling feels wobbly. I think that the old bearings are dead too.
I LOVE working on bikes like this. A lot of us do. The bikes are worth it to us. But it does take some skill even if you have the right tools. Perhaps the best advice was to go find a shop that will do the hard stuff and guide you on the rest.
Good luck!
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#33
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OP here again. I tried to upload a photo, but couldn’t. The issue is that the crankset is cracking, and the pedal is not leveled anymore. It seems like the pedal could simply break out, what would make it dangerous. Additionally, peddling feels wobbly. I think that the old bearings are dead too.
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can.
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can.
#34
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The frame is pretty enough. Fenders look poor. But what I suspect, is the OP has done NOTHING to lube and maintain this bike in the 10 years.
Therefore, it's probably beyond any reasonable fixing. Is the seat post stuck too? Do the wheels spin for a minute or two, like the front one should.
So just get a $700 NEW bike with a SA 3 speed.
I did spend a LOT more than $200 upgrading my 1973 CCM. It wasn't wasted IMO.
I rode this on my 2019 trip in Toronto, Montreal, Ottawa and Quebec city no problem.
Therefore, it's probably beyond any reasonable fixing. Is the seat post stuck too? Do the wheels spin for a minute or two, like the front one should.
So just get a $700 NEW bike with a SA 3 speed.
I did spend a LOT more than $200 upgrading my 1973 CCM. It wasn't wasted IMO.
I rode this on my 2019 trip in Toronto, Montreal, Ottawa and Quebec city no problem.
Last edited by GamblerGORD53; 10-06-23 at 09:30 PM.
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#35
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Proof of concept estimate for DIY:
Toolkit $32.50 Has spanners to remove the old BB and the tool to install a square taper one
BB-UN300 $16 122.5mm spindle
Tourney crankset $26
Total: $74.50
Optional:
Combo wrench $8.50 to turn the BB tool
WD-40 $7 to help remove the old BB
Grease $12
Total optional: $27.50
Toolkit $32.50 Has spanners to remove the old BB and the tool to install a square taper one
BB-UN300 $16 122.5mm spindle
Tourney crankset $26
Total: $74.50
Optional:
Combo wrench $8.50 to turn the BB tool
WD-40 $7 to help remove the old BB
Grease $12
Total optional: $27.50
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#36
I like cats.
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#39
I like cats.
The issue is that the crankset is cracking, and the pedal is not leveled anymore. It seems like the pedal could simply break out, what would make it dangerous. Additionally, peddling feels wobbly. I think that the old bearings are dead too.
#40
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Got around to reading through this thread and saw this post from the OP. Replacing the BB and cranks is certainly an option. Alternatively, assuming the cottered cranks are steel, does anyone on the forum have opinions about stick or TIG welding the crack in the crank and then chasing the thread? It's just a pedal, IMO nothing really catastrophic can happen. The repair would be lower cost and the end result would be period correct. Thoughts?
So IMHO is is not just a pedal. and it catastrophic is a real possibility
I personally would worry at all about period correct with a bike like this
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can.
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can.
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#41
I like cats.
pecanhas I sent you a private message, it occurred to me that the default profile might not be set up to automatically notify
Last edited by ericoseveins; 10-06-23 at 07:24 PM.
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#42
cowboy, steel horse, etc
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#45
SE Wis
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Crank arms are available new & used. Just need to know things like length, spindle and cotter size, pedal thread.
Personally I'd upgrade to a cheap alloy cotterless crank new or used.
https://www.schellers.com/product/su...m-232842-1.htm
Personally I'd upgrade to a cheap alloy cotterless crank new or used.
https://www.schellers.com/product/su...m-232842-1.htm
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#46
I like cats.
Crank arms are available new & used. Just need to know things like length, spindle and cotter size, pedal thread.
https://www.schellers.com/product/su...m-232842-1.htm
https://www.schellers.com/product/su...m-232842-1.htm
#47
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Ehhh it's up to pecanhas but $7 plus shipping is a whole meal at Trader Joe's. I say light that crank up.
Given that the pedal eye already looks to be distorted, it's not something I would attempt. If you get junk in the weld it will probably break there again. Crank arms are cheaper than good dental insurance.
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#48
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Am I totally missing something?
Has there been a blight, wiping out the supply of steel crank arms?
Rather than debating high or low end alloy crank and BB options, wouldn't make both practical and financial sense to simply source and fit a left crank and cotter?
Edit -- sorry I missed the posts that followed the photo, and had the pre-photo debate in mind.
So count me as a +1 to those posts just above.
Has there been a blight, wiping out the supply of steel crank arms?
Rather than debating high or low end alloy crank and BB options, wouldn't make both practical and financial sense to simply source and fit a left crank and cotter?
Edit -- sorry I missed the posts that followed the photo, and had the pre-photo debate in mind.
So count me as a +1 to those posts just above.
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#49
Newbie
Thread Starter
Thank you, all. It seems that the simplest solution is to just replace the left crank (thank you, I didn’t even know it was possible to replace only one crank before this post).
Now, since peddling was slightly wobbly even before the crack, would the “complete” solution be to replace the crankset and bottom bracket?
Now, since peddling was slightly wobbly even before the crack, would the “complete” solution be to replace the crankset and bottom bracket?
#50
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Thank you, all. It seems that the simplest solution is to just replace the left crank (thank you, I didn’t even know it was possible to replace only one crank before this post).
Now, since peddling was slightly wobbly even before the crack, would the “complete” solution be to replace the crankset and bottom bracket?
Now, since peddling was slightly wobbly even before the crack, would the “complete” solution be to replace the crankset and bottom bracket?
It's quite possible that your original cup and cone bottom bracket is still serviceable, and just needs to be cleaned, greased, and maybe get new ball bearings.
Without taking it apart, there's no way to inspect and diagnose this. Try one of those multiple DC co-ops. I think there's still one in Mt Rainier, just across the PG county line, and one in Alexandria. There may be others.
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