Would I be foolish to drill Trek rims to fit Schraders?
11-17-23, 06:08 PM
#26
Senior Member
I think I will go with the tighter tolerance of 5/16". Can't have that 0.002" extra with the 8mm hole. We're talking ultra precision rubber here with this batch of Chinese 27" 1-1/8" Schrader tubes.
Thanks for the recommendations everyone. Sounds like I probably don't need to stress over it too much one way or the other. I will probably drill for Schraders next time I have a flat.
Thanks for the recommendations everyone. Sounds like I probably don't need to stress over it too much one way or the other. I will probably drill for Schraders next time I have a flat.
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11-17-23, 07:01 PM
#27
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I suggest using a tapered reamer to ensure you are taking the absolute minimum amount of material
drills "walk around" and decenter
/markp
drills "walk around" and decenter
/markp
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11-17-23, 07:05 PM
#28
Yup.
11-18-23, 12:19 AM
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if you think PV is hard to deal with, dont try the dunlop valve for dunlop specific tires thing. That gets flat out tiring.
The risk might high with a "road" rim, but not so much with a wider rim. Make sure all the debris is out of the rim channel if it's dbl walled.
The risk might high with a "road" rim, but not so much with a wider rim. Make sure all the debris is out of the rim channel if it's dbl walled.
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11-18-23, 12:45 AM
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Forgive if this was covered, I didn't read the whole thread.
The most important consideration is whether the rim's inner width us sufficient.
Adequate tire clearance between the valve and rim is critical. This as is certain with wider rims. However, the combination of narrow rim, SV, and tires that are thicker at the bead would be.like trying to put 6#s of apples in a 5# bag.
Even if it seems OK, it can prevent proper seating valve seating, and chronic tube failures.
The most important consideration is whether the rim's inner width us sufficient.
Adequate tire clearance between the valve and rim is critical. This as is certain with wider rims. However, the combination of narrow rim, SV, and tires that are thicker at the bead would be.like trying to put 6#s of apples in a 5# bag.
Even if it seems OK, it can prevent proper seating valve seating, and chronic tube failures.
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11-18-23, 09:28 AM
#31
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I do have a couple of those adapters and use them when I use the 12V inflator. But I find them to be a bit of an annoyance vs my bikes with Schraders. Especially so when filling a few bikes at a time.
It doesn't help that I just bought a box of 20 Schrader tubes.
These rims are holding 32mm and 25mm tires (Trek 520 and 2120). So maybe that would be too narrow to drill. I would guess it's 1/8" or so bigger diameter.
It doesn't help that I just bought a box of 20 Schrader tubes.
These rims are holding 32mm and 25mm tires (Trek 520 and 2120). So maybe that would be too narrow to drill. I would guess it's 1/8" or so bigger diameter.
If you absolutely have to enlarge the hole, I’ll second (third?) the use of a tapered hand reamer. It’s not difficult to use and a lot better than using a handheld power drill.
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Last edited by cyccommute; 11-18-23 at 09:32 AM.
11-18-23, 03:09 PM
#33
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If your issue is a compressor with an inflator or valve head that doesn't fit a Presta valve, to me, rather than drill out a rim, I'd either get a new inflator to attach to the compressor (inexpensive - see Ebay, Park tool cost not necessary), or replace the head of your current inflator with a Presta one which are available. My inexpensive EBay digital inflator came with both. It not only works perfectly, I use it regularly between my cars and my Presta bikes simply by changing the head, no tools required.
I guess I don't see any practical reason to drill out a perfectly good rim to use a different valve stem which is imho, inferior for a bike.
I guess I don't see any practical reason to drill out a perfectly good rim to use a different valve stem which is imho, inferior for a bike.
11-18-23, 04:06 PM
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11-18-23, 08:47 PM
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I honestly don't think one is better than the other, I believe PV is actually necessary for thin rims, as SV holes just remove too much integrity and may make the wheel harder to keep true.
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11-18-23, 08:55 PM
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This isn't in any way a structural issue. Rim makers have drilled larger valve holes for a century, and I doubt there's ever been a failure because of it.
Its purely about preference. I prefer PV, but if you prefer SV go for it.
Last edited by FBinNY; 11-18-23 at 09:07 PM.
11-18-23, 10:19 PM
#37
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Never had an issue with a drill bit walking when used with a cordless drill. 5/16 or 8mm bit tip fits pretty well in the existing hole, because it only removes a minimal amount of material. And if you have access to an air compressor, blow out the rim if it's double-walled, chamfer the hole with a fine file to remove all the burs.
11-18-23, 11:06 PM
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The best way to do this is with a tapered hand reamer. It takes a minute or two and does a nice job with a cheap, versatile tool you'll find other uses for later.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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11-18-23, 11:07 PM
#39
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The best way to do this is with a tapered hand reamer. It takes a minute or two and does a nice job with a cheap, versatile tool you'll find other uses for later.
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11-18-23, 11:15 PM
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Oh, my god, that is beautiful!
Utilitarian but it will probably outlast the Harbor Freight one.
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11-19-23, 12:35 PM
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If you insist, but I would check the dimensions of the rim first. If they're narrow, like pre-2015 road rims, you might weaken the rim or have trouble seating the tube and the tire bead at the valve stem. If they're too deep you might have trouble finding tubes with valve stems that are long enough. I remember a Schwinn hybrid from about 20 years back that had deep-dish rims and used Schreader valves.Very stylish but finding tubes for fixing flats was always an expedition. Good luck.
11-19-23, 08:45 PM
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If you insist, but I would check the dimensions of the rim first. If they're narrow, like pre-2015 road rims, you might weaken the rim or have trouble seating the tube and the tire bead at the valve stem. If they're too deep you might have trouble finding tubes with valve stems that are long enough. I remember a Schwinn hybrid from about 20 years back that had deep-dish rims and used Schreader valves.Very stylish but finding tubes for fixing flats was always an expedition. Good luck.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
11-19-23, 10:37 PM
#43
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Reasons to drill your presta rims for schrader valves...
.
.
- Presta valves are illegal in your area of Kazakhstan.
- You inherited a storage unit of schrader tubes
- You're building the cheapest looking bike possible.
- Bike will be used in a '50s era musical.
- Pure madness in winter.
