Is this just a dust cap or does it have to be very tight?
11-21-23, 08:21 AM
#26
Senior Member
11-21-23, 08:22 AM
#27
Senior Member
Before worrying about using the correct crank puller (as there are basically two different sizes for different spindles), try using the self-extractor already in place and if no luck, report back here. Park sells a puller that has both sizes to cover most BB types if needed. CWP-7 Compact Crank Puller | Park Tool
Park also has instructions for using self-extractors Crank Removal and Installation: Self-Extracting | Park Tool
Park also has instructions for using self-extractors Crank Removal and Installation: Self-Extracting | Park Tool
Last edited by Crankycrank; 11-21-23 at 08:28 AM.
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11-21-23, 08:30 AM
#28
Senior Member
I am not the OP, just sticking my nose in as I also have a GXP crank. That explains a lot. My current crank puller does not have that wider section for the splined spindles. But the 8mm bolt has worked fine for me so far.
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11-21-23, 12:02 PM
#30
11-21-23, 12:28 PM
#31
Senior Member
11-21-23, 09:16 PM
#32
Crankycrank is assuming such a tool exists. If it does, you would remove the crank bolt, like you do on any crank to be extracted.
If it doesn't exist, you use the built in tool - like everyone everywhere normally does (but we like to pretend otherwise on BF).
If it doesn't exist, you use the built in tool - like everyone everywhere normally does (but we like to pretend otherwise on BF).
11-22-23, 01:01 AM
#33
Senior Member
Sooo… (I’m tryng to learn here) … if a tool exists, and it looks like it does from his post of the Park Tool one, why would I buy that and not just still use the self extracting bolt?
11-22-23, 07:50 AM
#34
So I would not bother buying such a tool because I think the built in extractor is unlikely to fail, and removing the cap is going to be another thing that can get messed up. But GXP does use the same M22 crank threads and M15 crank bolt that Octalink and Isis use, so the oversize extractor for those should work fine.
However, larger spindle systems like DUB or BB30 are built just like GXP, but are much larger than M22. They have no Park remover tool and rely entirely on their built-ins for extraction. At the shop we used that extractor for every tune up. Same with GXP and most other self-extractors.
Personally, if the self extractor is the thin sheet metal type on square taper, and the extraction torque seems excessive, that's when I would use a separate tool. Otherwise, the built-in.
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11-23-23, 10:23 AM
#35
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I took my cranks apart too, to investigate.
(my other Bike Friday Tikit has standard square taper BB and crank arms and so I could not use it to compare Factory Setup)
I found nothing washer wise on the DS.
but there is a thin plastic cover on the NDS that goes over the bearing face before the arm goes on (and is critical as without it everything binds and locks up)
then I found a small washer which seems to go on the 8mm bolt (see photo)
and that was it. then the outer 10mm extractor bolt
I tightened the inner 8mm bolt as best I could. we'll see now if it holds.
(my other Bike Friday Tikit has standard square taper BB and crank arms and so I could not use it to compare Factory Setup)
I found nothing washer wise on the DS.
but there is a thin plastic cover on the NDS that goes over the bearing face before the arm goes on (and is critical as without it everything binds and locks up)
then I found a small washer which seems to go on the 8mm bolt (see photo)
and that was it. then the outer 10mm extractor bolt
I tightened the inner 8mm bolt as best I could. we'll see now if it holds.
11-23-23, 10:47 AM
#36
I took my cranks apart too, to investigate.
(my other Bike Friday Tikit has standard square taper BB and crank arms and so I could not use it to compare Factory Setup)
I found nothing washer wise on the DS.
but there is a thin plastic cover on the NDS that goes over the bearing face before the arm goes on (and is critical as without it everything binds and locks up)
then I found a small washer which seems to go on the 8mm bolt (see photo)
and that was it. then the outer 10mm extractor bolt
I tightened the inner 8mm bolt as best I could. we'll see now if it holds.
(my other Bike Friday Tikit has standard square taper BB and crank arms and so I could not use it to compare Factory Setup)
I found nothing washer wise on the DS.
but there is a thin plastic cover on the NDS that goes over the bearing face before the arm goes on (and is critical as without it everything binds and locks up)
then I found a small washer which seems to go on the 8mm bolt (see photo)
and that was it. then the outer 10mm extractor bolt
I tightened the inner 8mm bolt as best I could. we'll see now if it holds.
11-23-23, 02:51 PM
#37
Senior Member
If you tightened it with an L-wrench then it would be a little difficult to apply enough torque on that. Probably needs 35+ ft/lbs of torque. If you don't have a feel for what torque is needed, try to borrow a torque wrench from someone and use that. If you plan on doing more bike work in the future a torque wrench can be a good investment.
Last edited by Crankycrank; 11-23-23 at 02:59 PM.
11-23-23, 04:56 PM
#38
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I have a torque set for bikes but i dont think it has a head as large as 8mm.
And i don't think it is designed to do high torques (i think i read that this needs lile 45Nm?)
I've only used my torque set on small bolts - like stems and seatposts .
So i might need anither more heavy duty torque wrench.
And i don't think it is designed to do high torques (i think i read that this needs lile 45Nm?)
I've only used my torque set on small bolts - like stems and seatposts .
So i might need anither more heavy duty torque wrench.
11-23-23, 10:05 PM
#39
I have a torque set for bikes but i dont think it has a head as large as 8mm.
And i don't think it is designed to do high torques (i think i read that this needs lile 45Nm?)
I've only used my torque set on small bolts - like stems and seatposts .
So i might need anither more heavy duty torque wrench.
And i don't think it is designed to do high torques (i think i read that this needs lile 45Nm?)
I've only used my torque set on small bolts - like stems and seatposts .
So i might need anither more heavy duty torque wrench.
11-24-23, 01:52 AM
#40
Senior Member
Yeah 35 lb-ft is about 45Nm and correct. It’s seriously tight. I bought a heavy duty torque wrench just for this and honestly can’t even get it tighter than about 38Nm. It’s never come loose at that.
See I said there was something on the NDS that kept the crank from contacting the outer bearing race
See I said there was something on the NDS that kept the crank from contacting the outer bearing race
11-26-23, 03:55 PM
#41
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Do a search on "GXP crank bolt" and you will see that there are several configurations, most of which indeed includes a spacer/washer. I can't recall from the top of my head whether the washer goes in first or if it goes between the two bolts.
11-26-23, 10:44 PM
#42
I have the 8 mm Allen key from the impact driver and the two foot breaker bar. I think the proper procedure is to tighten it until it strips then back it off half a turn and let someone else finish the job.
11-26-23, 10:49 PM
#43
A 2 foot breaker bar isn't going to do anything extra when you using with a 7" crank.
11-27-23, 12:02 AM
#44
12-06-23, 09:57 AM
#45
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It was holding okay for a few days but now it just loosens off after 5minutes of riding.
Though i currently only have an 8mm allen key in a short handled multitool so i am not getting a lot of leverage to tighten it up massively.
I think i mightnhave to replace either the cranks or the BB (Which would likely be worn? Both?)
Though i currently only have an 8mm allen key in a short handled multitool so i am not getting a lot of leverage to tighten it up massively.
I think i mightnhave to replace either the cranks or the BB (Which would likely be worn? Both?)
12-06-23, 12:33 PM
#46
Senior Member
I would try a torque wrench that can hit 40Nm first
12-06-23, 03:37 PM
#47
It was holding okay for a few days but now it just loosens off after 5minutes of riding.
Though i currently only have an 8mm allen key in a short handled multitool so i am not getting a lot of leverage to tighten it up massively.
I think i mightnhave to replace either the cranks or the BB (Which would likely be worn? Both?)
Though i currently only have an 8mm allen key in a short handled multitool so i am not getting a lot of leverage to tighten it up massively.
I think i mightnhave to replace either the cranks or the BB (Which would likely be worn? Both?)
12-06-23, 06:33 PM
#48
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I will put the bike aside until i have the correct tools.
It though is my main transportation and so i was just trying to keep it on the road.
Thank you for your help
It though is my main transportation and so i was just trying to keep it on the road.
Thank you for your help
12-06-23, 08:47 PM
#49
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12-07-23, 09:57 AM
#50
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It was actually $1.50 (stuff is more expensive up here in Canada).
I'll see how this holds up Now
I'll see how this holds up Now
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