Show us your vintage mountain bikes!
#8951
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Join Date: May 2023
Location: Dickinson, ND
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Bikes: Some old ones and some new ones
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If you look at any conventional MTB of the time that was used off-road as intended (my other Rockhopper, an '89 I bought new and still have, being a perfect example) you can see what a beating the drive side chain stay would be subjected to from chain slap -- in many cases to the point that large swathes of the chain stay got polished down to the bare metal from the chain slap. I don't know how much that motivated designers to move the chain stays up and out of the way, but I bet it was a large part of their thinking if not the primary reason.
Last edited by Maxey; 02-13-24 at 07:51 AM.
#8952
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Soviet of Oregon or Pensacola FL
Posts: 5,347
Bikes: Still have a few left!
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Was intended to be a fast climbing bike. Can confirm it is, but have to watch speed on descents or it gets "squirrely". They have a reputation for cracking/breaking frame and or losing braze on derailleur mount. Went over it with a magnifying glass and found nothing. Guy I got it from weighed around 145# + I'm a little guy at 133# and ride a bit slower and more carefully due to old age so not expecting any problems.
#8953
Senior Member
Elevated chainstays were a solution looking for a problem.
The problems being:
Chainsuck: where the chain gets sucked down between the tire and chainstay during rough riding, or conversely, sucked up between the inner chainring and the chainstay under difficult shifting from high torque on the chainwheel.
Mud clearance: this problem was exacerbated by the ridiculous decision to place a U brake down there, competing with space for tire, chainstays, and chainrings. Once designers got the foo out of their heads and placed the brakes back up on the seat stays where they belonged things got much better.
Better climbing ability: Shorter chainstays allowed better traction on steep inclines, E-stays allowed shorter stays, typically.
That being said, I love me some E-stay goodness and would love to get my hands on my old '92 Nishiki Ariel or '93 Nishiki Alien, some of the coolest MTBs to ever be made. IMHO.
The problems being:
Chainsuck: where the chain gets sucked down between the tire and chainstay during rough riding, or conversely, sucked up between the inner chainring and the chainstay under difficult shifting from high torque on the chainwheel.
Mud clearance: this problem was exacerbated by the ridiculous decision to place a U brake down there, competing with space for tire, chainstays, and chainrings. Once designers got the foo out of their heads and placed the brakes back up on the seat stays where they belonged things got much better.
Better climbing ability: Shorter chainstays allowed better traction on steep inclines, E-stays allowed shorter stays, typically.
That being said, I love me some E-stay goodness and would love to get my hands on my old '92 Nishiki Ariel or '93 Nishiki Alien, some of the coolest MTBs to ever be made. IMHO.
#8954
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: USA - Southwest PA
Posts: 3,265
Bikes: Cannondale - Gary Fisher - Giant - Litespeed - Schwinn Paramount - Schwinn (lugged steel) - Trek OCLV
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The Billy Bonkers went on about as easily as a guy could hope for -- I was able to get them mounted without using any kind of tire iron, and the only difficulty was getting the very last part of the tire over the rim. I still have some good hand strength so was able to just roll that last part onto the rim, but again, with some exertion. Put it this way, I've had a much worse time with some other tires -- as a matter of fact, I found getting the old, original tires off much harder than mounting these. I suppose the rim design/dimensions the tire is being mounted to might play some part in the degree of difficulty encountered, but on a Specialized GX23 rim they're pretty easy.
As far as the finish, in the case of my bike it already had well preserved paint that had obviously not spent a lot of time out in the weather or under the sun, so it's always nice to have a good starting point like that. All I did with the paint is apply a light application of Maguire's Cleaner Wax (automotive), that supposedly cleans, shines and protects all in one step. I think the stuff works great as you can see any impurities in the paint will get lifted onto the applicator pad. I apply it to each new section of paint with a different part of the applicator pad so that you're not applying dirty wax anywhere. Have used it for many years now. I used it on an old Subaru my kid used to drive -- the paint on that was really dull and lifeless, but one generous pass with the Cleaner Wax using a more vigorous application, and it transformed the paint to the point that it brought back the car's true factory color and gloss. Good stuff in my opinion.
As far as the finish, in the case of my bike it already had well preserved paint that had obviously not spent a lot of time out in the weather or under the sun, so it's always nice to have a good starting point like that. All I did with the paint is apply a light application of Maguire's Cleaner Wax (automotive), that supposedly cleans, shines and protects all in one step. I think the stuff works great as you can see any impurities in the paint will get lifted onto the applicator pad. I apply it to each new section of paint with a different part of the applicator pad so that you're not applying dirty wax anywhere. Have used it for many years now. I used it on an old Subaru my kid used to drive -- the paint on that was really dull and lifeless, but one generous pass with the Cleaner Wax using a more vigorous application, and it transformed the paint to the point that it brought back the car's true factory color and gloss. Good stuff in my opinion.
also often use meguiars mag and aluminum polish (on a variety of things)
those two products always in stock
#8955
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: USA - Southwest PA
Posts: 3,265
Bikes: Cannondale - Gary Fisher - Giant - Litespeed - Schwinn Paramount - Schwinn (lugged steel) - Trek OCLV
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Elevated chainstays were a solution looking for a problem.
The problems being:
Chainsuck: where the chain gets sucked down between the tire and chainstay during rough riding, or conversely, sucked up between the inner chainring and the chainstay under difficult shifting from high torque on the chainwheel.
Mud clearance: this problem was exacerbated by the ridiculous decision to place a U brake down there, competing with space for tire, chainstays, and chainrings. Once designers got the foo out of their heads and placed the brakes back up on the seat stays where they belonged things got much better.
Better climbing ability: Shorter chainstays allowed better traction on steep inclines, E-stays allowed shorter stays, typically.
That being said, I love me some E-stay goodness and would love to get my hands on my old '92 Nishiki Ariel or '93 Nishiki Alien, some of the coolest MTBs to ever be made. IMHO.
The problems being:
Chainsuck: where the chain gets sucked down between the tire and chainstay during rough riding, or conversely, sucked up between the inner chainring and the chainstay under difficult shifting from high torque on the chainwheel.
Mud clearance: this problem was exacerbated by the ridiculous decision to place a U brake down there, competing with space for tire, chainstays, and chainrings. Once designers got the foo out of their heads and placed the brakes back up on the seat stays where they belonged things got much better.
Better climbing ability: Shorter chainstays allowed better traction on steep inclines, E-stays allowed shorter stays, typically.
That being said, I love me some E-stay goodness and would love to get my hands on my old '92 Nishiki Ariel or '93 Nishiki Alien, some of the coolest MTBs to ever be made. IMHO.
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#8957
Senior Member
Tires came in for the Terra XT. Thank god they're not gum walls. The whole package only weighed 2 lb so at least they'll look the part and don't weigh a ton. Kenda K850. Practically the last brand new skin wall mountain bike tire you can buy.
Last edited by Bikedued; 02-15-24 at 12:56 PM.
#8958
Junior Member
Can you share where you found them? Thanx
#8959
Senior Member
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#8960
Senior Member
I remember drooling over these while in college but I was too broke to afford one. Maybe that's why I went a bit overboard when I found a frame worthy of fixing up.
'96 Trek 950 Singletrack frameset from True Temper OX steel. A mix of Deore XT, LX and SLX. Essentially NOS Araya 7x rims laced to NOS Deore LX hubs. Vintage Nitto aluminum riser bars. Bits of gold aluminum bling complement the frame badging as do the Brooks saddle and grips. It's my "rails-to-trails" bike to ride with the family. might as well look good while going slow I suppose.
'96 Trek 950 Singletrack frameset from True Temper OX steel. A mix of Deore XT, LX and SLX. Essentially NOS Araya 7x rims laced to NOS Deore LX hubs. Vintage Nitto aluminum riser bars. Bits of gold aluminum bling complement the frame badging as do the Brooks saddle and grips. It's my "rails-to-trails" bike to ride with the family. might as well look good while going slow I suppose.
#8961
Junior Member
#8962
Senior Member
I would think all of them would be too new for a tire that small. just don't buy all of them I may buy another set tonight. Most of my old vintage skin walls have now rotted on me. Got to get four or five sets for bikes I need to make ridable again. All older than 1990.
#8963
Junior Member
I would think all of them would be too new for a tire that small. just don't buy all of them I may buy another set tonight. Most of my old vintage skin walls have now rotted on me. Got to get four or five sets for bikes I need to make ridable again. All older than 1990.
I acquired these four bikes in the past year or so. All had 1.95 tires on them when I got them. Based on the disintegrating sidewalls, I think all four bikes' tires were originals.
Now I need to get ready to rebuild the forks on three of the bikes.
#8964
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Great White North
Posts: 1,230
Bikes: 2013 Cannondale Caad 8, 2010 Opus Fidelio, 1985 Peugeot UO14, 1999 Peugeot Dune, Sakai Select, L'Avantage, 1971 Gitane Apache Standard, 1999 Specialized Hard Rock
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I remember drooling over these while in college but I was too broke to afford one. Maybe that's why I went a bit overboard when I found a frame worthy of fixing up.
'96 Trek 950 Singletrack frameset from True Temper OX steel. A mix of Deore XT, LX and SLX. Essentially NOS Araya 7x rims laced to NOS Deore LX hubs. Vintage Nitto aluminum riser bars. Bits of gold aluminum bling complement the frame badging as do the Brooks saddle and grips. It's my "rails-to-trails" bike to ride with the family. might as well look good while going slow I suppose.
'96 Trek 950 Singletrack frameset from True Temper OX steel. A mix of Deore XT, LX and SLX. Essentially NOS Araya 7x rims laced to NOS Deore LX hubs. Vintage Nitto aluminum riser bars. Bits of gold aluminum bling complement the frame badging as do the Brooks saddle and grips. It's my "rails-to-trails" bike to ride with the family. might as well look good while going slow I suppose.
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#8965
Senior Member
Amazing how much tires alone made this much difference! I haven't had a chance to start on any real bike projects lately, because we're going into that stupid almost spring weather pattern. It's nice all week then rains and gets cold on the weekends then it's nice all week again. It's maddening but it happens every single year without fail.
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#8967
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 465
Bikes: 91 Ritchey Ultra, 1992 Specialized Stumpjumper, 1990 Klein Rascal, 97 Trek OCLV9700, 90 Minnelli Eclipse, 95 Marin Bear Valley SE, 1991 Breezer Lightning Flash 1991 Diamondback Axis 1992 Stumpjumper Comp 1983 Stumpjumper Sport
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My green bikes with black forks
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#8968
Learning To Fly
This one followed me home from the swap meet yesterday.
Likely built in Taiwan circa 1986 from what limited info I have been able to gather so far.
Likely built in Taiwan circa 1986 from what limited info I have been able to gather so far.
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#8969
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2022
Location: California's capital
Posts: 518
Bikes: Litespeed Firenze, Spot Acme, Specialzed S Works Pro Race, Davidson Stiletto, Colnago Superissimo
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Improbably clean. Nice find!
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#8972
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Location: Madison, WI USA
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^^^^^ Tickin' the check-boxes - iconic brand, roller cams, thumbies. Almost too clean to take outside (almost.....)
#8973
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Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Minnesota
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Just got done with an upgrade to the '92 Specialized Hard Rock. No more straight bars. Parts bin tall stem and upright bars to ease the back and neck.
Forty Five degrees and sunny skies today in Minnesota - NO SNOW!
Forty Five degrees and sunny skies today in Minnesota - NO SNOW!
#8974
tantum vehi
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Flathead Valley, MT
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And it needs to be clean because you can’t mount fenders with roller cam brakes. I suppose you could with chain stay-mounted brakes, but not on the fork. But I’m a weirdo with fenders, so not many share my concern…
__________________
1970 Gitane TdF; 1973 Gitane TdF
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE