tomhaegler

I need some inputs for a rear wheel build (disc.: no wheelbuilder). I have two DT Swiss wheelsets which I like (rim brake) - PR1400 Dicut and P 1800 Spline, so essentially: 240 hub plus R411 rims and 370 hub (pawl) and R460 rim. Both are 130mm.

Now: For a build (old steel frame turned to fast road bike, see here), I need a 135mm rear wheel (QR / rim brake, 11s road HG, light) which is not that easy to find.

I‘m currently using a Mavic Aksium wheelset (130mm) and just squeeze the dropouts together. But as I really like that bike and ride it a lot (more than my modern road bike currently), I am looking for a more permanent solution that make taking out/putting in the wheel easier and give me more peace of mind while riding fast - on a non squeezed frame. I‘m still alive though…

So my build plan would be:
-DT 350 disc hub Centerlock with 135 QR endcaps / 370 would be ok as well I think - but isn‘t sold AFAIK
-DT 460 rim
-DT aero spokes (24, 2cross) - or CXRay? Pillar?

Does that make sense? It‘s pretty much inspired by the wheels I already own but 135mm instead of 130mm. But lacking experience and already knowing these wheels led me to it…

And: classic or straightpull? 24 spokes should be ok? Both PR1400 and P1800 rear wheel has 24 spokes if I‘m correct.

Does anybody has any experience with this combination? Thanks!

Andrew R Stewart 

How much do you weigh? Are you a spinner or a pounder? Do you ride light? What other weight will the bike see? what tire widths will you likely run?

I can't speak to the DT family of hub/ freehub spec/axle end cap options but I run 135 rim braked rear wheels on most of my actually ridden bikes. I also run triple cranks so the cassette's chainline being slightly more than the usual road bikes have is actually a plus, better matches the triple's.

If some of the answers to my questions end up on one side of the range of wheel killing loads over many miles I might suggest more spokes. One factor is the assumed lack of building experience the OP likely has (or hasn't...). More spokes equals a wheel build that isn't as touchy about tensions being spot on. Especially with a rim brake, the easier to keep true of more spokes speaks aspect to me. Andy

FBinNY 

I'm a bit confused.

Why are you buying disc brake hubs for a rim brake bike?

Otherwise, no comment on the build except a reminder that low spoke count wheels need a more rigid rim. Also aero spokes are super prone to twist, especially at the higher tensions your wheel will want. Use a decent grease on the threads rather that some of the dry spoke preps available.


Lastly ----- build quality trumps ALL other considerations.

Bill Kapaun

That's confusing.

What will be the intended purpose of an old steel 135mm frame?

You could just use 130mm and squeeze things together.

squirtdad

135 frame suggest MTB if it is old, so maybe get some good quality older mtb hubs?

Kontact

The current R 460 rim is not for rim brakes. Is this some older model with a brake track? Current rim brake models are the RR 411 and RR 511.

Duragrouch

I may be missing some key points, but my suggestion would be to put 2.5mm spacers on each side of the axle, between the locknut and the cone, unless 5mm on one side is better for wheel centering. No?

tomhaegler

there is a rim version (still used on the P1800 wheelset) - its available as disc and rim version.

tomhaegler

I built a road bike out of a 1990ies steel hybrid frame that came with the 135mm spacing. I‘m using an older Mavic Aksium wheelset at the moment (130mm) and squeeze the dropouts with the QR. Having ridden almost 1000k now, I love the bike, but never felt too good about squeezing things - and putting the wheel back in is a bit more work. Have not died so far but was looking for a more permanent solution.

tomhaegler

there is not much axle left. I know you don‘t need much but I don‘t have a good feeling about this. And wouldn‘t it mess with the chainline?

tomhaegler

Thanks! 80kg rider. Chose 24 spokes because my other wheelsets on the other bikes have 24 as well…more a spinner. Trying to get the bike as light as possible. Have the original heavy wheelset for touring with big loads if necessary, so was looking for a lightweight wheelset (my PR1400 set is 1470g, my P1800 about 1600g, current Aksium 1800g - something in that range. Running 32mm Conti GP5000 currently or Panaracer 35mm. Thanks!

tomhaegler

I was thinking about this as well. Currently I’m using an old Aksium wheelset (130mm) and just squeeze the dropouts together. Cold settinf Would make things a bit easier. But no experience and as I understand, people mostly squeeze outward from 126 to 130 or 135. I was wondering if I could set it to let‘s say 132.5mm - that wouldn‘t be that much and made installing the rear wheel a bit easier (less squeezing) and gave me a bit more peace of mind while riding…and proably still could use a more sturdy touring wheelset I own (135mm)...might this be the best solution?

Bill Kapaun

IF that's just a standard cone/locknut type-
Get a 5mm longer axle and a 5mm spacer. (old parts bin) If it's 4 or 6mm, no big deal.
Install axle with spacer on NDS.
You'll probably have to give the NDS spokes 1/4 to 1/2 turn to redish. Tighten.
You now have a (on paper) stronger wheel.

Duragrouch

Forgot about the axle. A longer axle is cheap.

What he said. But before redishing wheel, determine (in terms of chainline) if best to put 5mm on NDS (and with less dish, yes, is stronger), or 2.5/2/3mm spacers on each side.

Bill Kapaun

No. You then have to reset the RDER in a range it wasn't designed to operate in. You'll probably get by, but why open a can of worms when the other way is far superior?
You can decrease the amount of dish by 2X with the spacing all on the NDS vs "split". That makes a "stronger" wheel, the closer to symmetrical it becomes.

Duragrouch

Agreed.

downtube42

White Industries MI5 135mm Shimano HG rim brake. Pick your spoke count.

$400 hub.

https://www.whiteind.com/product/mi5-rear/

tomhaegler

was thinking about this but have not been able to find a longer axle for this mavic Aksium hub.

Russ Roth

Doesn't DT make endcaps to space your hubs, something like this? https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...nt=23053951045
If you have working wheels why not use them?
I've used the Pillar wing21 on the last couple builds and I'm impressed by how they build up and like the stronger 2.2mm spoke head, not to mention the price. Since you're in Switzerland you have cheaper access to DT in which case I'd readily use their aero spoke but here in the US they're really expensive. Just buying the DT hubs in disc form due to axle spacing? Cause the 240 used to come in a 135 Mtb format and 135 road for touring bikes though I'm not certain how available those really are now due to changes in design. Assuming you're not doing loaded touring I don't see a problem with the build for regular use, I much prefer a 28/24 spoke build unless you're over 220 then I prefer a 32/28 or even 32/32

Bill Kapaun

I'm Mavic ignorant, but I think I see your pain.

tomhaegler

I tried this adapter but it doesn‘t turn a 130mm QR wheel into 135mm, I learned. It turns a 142 thru axle to a QR135mm. I would use my Aksiums but as I said, they are 130mm and I have to squeeze the dropouts every time I put the rear wheel in.

Yan 

See here:
https://www.bike24.com/p2123285.html?sku=452178

Yan 

How about the Bitex RAR12 rear hub? It comes in both 130 and 135mm widths. You can get interchangeable end caps for this hub that let you convert between the two.

There is also this Novatec hub which fits what you need:
https://www.ridewill.com/p/en/novatec-325159-rear-hub-f162sb-aa-11s-32-holes-shimano-11s-qr135/557660/

tomhaegler

Thanks! Forgot about Bitex! How do you like them? I saw RAR9, RAR12, RAR13 and RAR16 would all work - but find it hard to spot the difference between them

Yan 

Sorry, I have no personal experience with these hubs.

I believe the RAR9 is the lightweight hub, and the RAR12 is the standard hub which uses larger bearings. No idea about the 13 and 16.

​​​​​​