Cannondale M700
05-02-24, 04:18 PM
#1
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Cannondale SM700
(another) dump pick. mid-90's? gonna need some elbow grease. might have been the bee's knees back then, but worth the effort today? maybe just the frame?
Last edited by rwh63; 05-02-24 at 07:05 PM. Reason: Photo
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05-02-24, 04:38 PM
#2
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It's from 1991, but the RD and crank were replaced in the mid 90's. I'd say it's worth fixing up, but then I don't have a source of free Cannondales.
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05-02-24, 04:43 PM
#3
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If it shifts nicely, nothing wrong with the replacements. Can’t really see the shifters though.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super, 1971 Raleigh International, 1998 Corratec Ap & Dun, 1991 Peugeot Slimestone
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05-02-24, 06:51 PM
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Ritchey fork is a score IMO
Those are pretty good bikes, I have a 95 M500 which I enjoy
Those are pretty good bikes, I have a 95 M500 which I enjoy
Last edited by DorkDisk; 05-03-24 at 04:15 AM.
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05-02-24, 07:17 PM
#6
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I love me some vintage Cannondales and that one ticks a bunch of boxes. Definitely worth time and effort.
05-03-24, 09:10 AM
#7
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More pics. Frame has pine pitch on it that will need removed.
Last edited by rwh63; 05-03-24 at 09:46 AM.
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05-03-24, 12:40 PM
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possibly already heard this - but worth repeating
best not to clamp the top tube
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05-03-24, 05:25 PM
#11
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Re: Clamping a frame tube - frame tubes were never designed for the outside forces of clamping.
I see people do this all the time. Bad idea.
I also hear the justification "well, it's just sitting on the jaws, not clamped in."
If you exert even the slightest pressure on the clamping jaws, dents and dings can result.
For that reason, only seatposts should be clamped, or a seatpost insert. They're made for it. Frame tubes are not.
And BTW, doesn't matter if we're talking gaspipe or the lightest steel available. Every type of tubing can distort when clamped.
I see people do this all the time. Bad idea.
I also hear the justification "well, it's just sitting on the jaws, not clamped in."
If you exert even the slightest pressure on the clamping jaws, dents and dings can result.
For that reason, only seatposts should be clamped, or a seatpost insert. They're made for it. Frame tubes are not.
And BTW, doesn't matter if we're talking gaspipe or the lightest steel available. Every type of tubing can distort when clamped.
05-04-24, 06:00 AM
#12
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+1 to above. In addition, the top tube is usually the thinnest walled tubing of the 3 main tubes. Particularly good to avoid this on non-steel frames, but should be avoided with steel too.
Sweet bike, I’d definitely fix it up, maybe build it up as a townie with upright bars if it were mine.
Sweet bike, I’d definitely fix it up, maybe build it up as a townie with upright bars if it were mine.
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