PromptCritical 

Anyone have any secret handshakes on how to keep tire irons from growing wings and flying across the garage (other than changing tires in the kitchen) when you get to the last bit of tire to get inside the rim?

Barry2 

Take two feet of parachute cord and tie it tightly around the rim and the tire to the left of that last bit that wont go on.
The use the levers to the right side of that last bit. No longer will the left side run away from you.

Barry

PromptCritical 

Great - thanks!

Crankycrank

Most bicycle levers, plastic or metal, have a hook on one end that hooks around a spoke so you can leave it, hands free, in place.

PromptCritical 

I've used that hook when taking a tire off, but I can't get my head around how to use it when putting a tire on......

Crankycrank

Ahh, brain fart on my part.

smd4

Don’t use tire levers to install tires?

PromptCritical 

Whew, I was wondering what I've been missing all these years......

FBinNY 

+1

Mounting tires is more about finesse than strength or leverage.

So far, after over 50 years, I've never needed tools to mount a tire.

In all fairness, I'm careful about selection of rims, rim tape, and tires, so my solution to hard fits is more about prevention than fix.

However, I also help others mount tires, so it seems that I've either been lucky or skilled.

However, to the OP, maybe the key is to not let go. Or if you absolutely find another way, consider tying a string to the lever.

PromptCritical 

That's impressive! I'd say half of my tires don't need tools to install, half do, and of that half, 10% get returned because they are unusably tight. The string would at least make finding the tire iron easier.......

smd4

So I think I’d be more worried about losing an eye when the lever snaps back on the string!

smd4

I admit to never having mounted a tubeless tire, but even then, I suspect there isn’t a tire I couldn’t mount using just my hands.

FBinNY 

Here's some practical advice.

First and most important, replace your rim tape with the thinnest as suitable option. I use filament tape, but urethane rim strips are an equally good option.

If you can find ones you like, buy tires with steel hoop beads rather than Kevlar or similar. Steel beads have the least stretch, so are made truer to size vs. stretchier beads that need to by undersized to allow for that.

When mounting, start opposite the valve, push the tire fully to the center and massage it forward as you work both sides to the valve. You should now be able to finish with hand strength alone. If not, put a tire iron between tire and rim push inward, while trying to lift the tire and crab it along until you can get the last bit over.

FBinNY 

Common sense, measure the string too short to reach your face.

Troul 

also, don't be sniffing the tire while using the levers!

PromptCritical 

Well, just for kicks, try mounting a Challenge, Strada Bianca in 700x36C, or a Schwalbe - Marathon Plus HS440 Tire on a Bontrager Affinity rim.

PromptCritical 

That's generally how I do it, but I don't start opposite the valve. What is the rationale for that?

smd4

I always start at the valve. You want the bead and the valve both properly seated.

smd4

I have none of those to try, but I bet you a beer I could do it!

FBinNY 

Isn't that it works good enough?

It's actually very simple. The rim is deepest at the center. The valve blocks that and keeps the tire on the side, costing you what could have been working slack.

Let's step back a moment. I don't know anyone who can't mount the first side fairly easily. So, given that both sides are the same, why do these same people have so much trouble on the second side?

The key is to duplicate first side conditions for the second side.

Troul 

usually the ole "tim hortons" method works for me... just rrroll it up over the rim!

FBinNY 

That's easily addressed once both sides are on. Simply push the valve in taking the tube with it, which allows the tire to settle, then pull back out.

But, I don't claim that there's only one way, or even a best way. Whatever works is right.

Andrew R Stewart 

When in my young 20's and working in the shop's basement for hours at a time we'd start to play games. One was "fling that lever" using the partially removed tire's tension to toss the lever as far as we could. Another was upstairs in the showroom and the (then) small assembly stand service spot. We would shoot Hunt Wild bar grips across the room with compressor air, aiming for the Wald baskets we showed on the over the front door peg board. Until the boss entered as a grip was bouncing off the display right above him. Andy

Duragrouch

I questioned valve last, but that makes sense. Just like a drop-center car wheel. I don't have problems mounting but will remember that.

There's another thread with VegasJen(?) having a terrible time getting a tubeless with foldable bead (so I assume kevlar) to properly seat. But since tubeless, would the above matter? Maybe if the inside of the valve takes up the rim center area. I'm gonna find that thread...

EDIT: Relayed that info to Jen on that thread (with attribution), above about valve side last, and also your comment about kevlar beads may be tighter at first. She *finally* got the bead seated, but this may help for the future. Thanks.

FBinNY 

As I said earlier, nobody seems to have problems getting the first side on. And if they do, I'd assume they'd take the hint and get other tires.

But, it begs the question, "if you can get one side on, why can't you get the other side on?"

So, to all those struggling, I suggest the key is in the answer to that question.
.