Chains' Compatibility?
09-01-24, 08:49 AM
#26
IME it's the side plate that gets damaged, not the pin - the widened end of the reused pin pushes against the side of the hole, enlarging or bending it. Sometimes the plate is visibly distorted, sometimes you can see a little crescent of swarf pushed out (if neither is the case you may have successfully joined the chain). The taper on the joining pin prevents damage by centering the pin and easing it through the hole.
09-01-24, 08:51 AM
#27
Not quite 3 for a nickel, but these are available. I don't use Quick-links so these are all I use and I keep a bunch of spares. You can replace the chain with an HG-71 if you want a new chain.
Shimano 8 Speed Bicycle Chain Connecting Pin
Shimano 8 Speed Bicycle Chain Connecting Pin
You can't use QLs on old 5 speed chains for the same reason - they aren't wide enough.
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09-09-24, 05:40 PM
#28
well youse guys are gonna get a chuckle out of this afternoon's hijinks.
i somehow felt the need to chain up this beast so i wrapped the chain around the large chainring and the small sprocket on the freewheel. used my snappy little chain holder tool to hold the loose ends and made a few - a several few- attempts to put the chain together.
remember, this is with the original link & pin.
so after about 15 minutes i came to the realization my Parks CT-5 wasn't going to make this happen. so what to do . . . . m'kay: grabbed a pair of Mechanic's Helpers aka Vise-Grips. got that sucker put together in jig time - except .... the pin wasn't far enough through the outside
plate. so i put a #10 ss washer over the pin's hole, and gave the link another squeeze.
Presto! AND - no kinked chain. told you guys i'm lucky.
so moving forward, i will order a proper chain from one of the links above.
Q: any recommendation for a good chain tool which will work with this size chain?
thanks
i somehow felt the need to chain up this beast so i wrapped the chain around the large chainring and the small sprocket on the freewheel. used my snappy little chain holder tool to hold the loose ends and made a few - a several few- attempts to put the chain together.
remember, this is with the original link & pin.
so after about 15 minutes i came to the realization my Parks CT-5 wasn't going to make this happen. so what to do . . . . m'kay: grabbed a pair of Mechanic's Helpers aka Vise-Grips. got that sucker put together in jig time - except .... the pin wasn't far enough through the outside
plate. so i put a #10 ss washer over the pin's hole, and gave the link another squeeze.
Presto! AND - no kinked chain. told you guys i'm lucky.
so moving forward, i will order a proper chain from one of the links above.
Q: any recommendation for a good chain tool which will work with this size chain?
thanks
09-10-24, 08:20 AM
#29
https://www.flickr.com/photos/reehre...7607268325536/
...
if it's the stem shifters i think it is... remove and weight the stem shifters some time... !
...
if it's the stem shifters i think it is... remove and weight the stem shifters some time... !
09-10-24, 06:35 PM
#31
Full Member
Cyclo Rivoli has been my tool since the 1970s. You did the right thing - pushed the pin far enough to separate the chain, but not so far that the pin falls off. For chains of that vintage it is a safe and reliable tool when used per Rivoli's instructions. Six turns (12 half turns) is about right to drive the pin far enough but not out.
(This is for the old style chains that had pins noticeably wider than the width of the chain. Newer style narrower chains, with pins that are flush or close to flush, require fewer turns of the chain tool, and closer attention to how far the pin is being pushed, to avoid the pin falling off the side plate. This is not a problem if you are just shortening the chain and using a quick link to rejoin it, and don't intend to reuse the link you have broken.)
(This is for the old style chains that had pins noticeably wider than the width of the chain. Newer style narrower chains, with pins that are flush or close to flush, require fewer turns of the chain tool, and closer attention to how far the pin is being pushed, to avoid the pin falling off the side plate. This is not a problem if you are just shortening the chain and using a quick link to rejoin it, and don't intend to reuse the link you have broken.)
Last edited by altenwrencher; 09-11-24 at 06:58 PM. Reason: addendum
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09-11-24, 04:04 AM
#32
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the stem mounted shifters will get replaced at some point, but they are such a marvel of design i'm keeping them for a season anyway.
i tried to buy some of the rubbers for my (other bike) downtube shifters a while back. i figured the LBS would have some in a dusty corner = nope. and was cautioned even if i found some they would likely be deteriorated from age and of no use.
i tried to buy some of the rubbers for my (other bike) downtube shifters a while back. i figured the LBS would have some in a dusty corner = nope. and was cautioned even if i found some they would likely be deteriorated from age and of no use.
https://www.veloduo.co.uk/products/r...shifter-covers
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09-11-24, 07:10 AM
#33
thanks for that link.
there's a LOT of stuff on that site i could use!
there's a LOT of stuff on that site i could use!
09-11-24, 08:30 AM
#34
Nope, although I Iike the anchor idea; it's the only lever for the rear wheel - the regular levers each control one of the front wheels. I've yet to test ride it, I may not keep this arrangement.
