werewolf

I weigh about 230 with no clothes on, so with clothes and carrying stuff the weight could be 260 or more.
The bike I'm considering is the Raleigh One Way. It comes with big fat 700X38 tyres, but only 32 spokes. I was also thinking about a folding bike, but none of them seem to be recommended for over 250 lbs. (the Swift). Also, I like to stand up on the pedals and push hard. Way way back in my racing days I used to ride a fixed 90 gear.

jaxgtr

32 spoke should be fine. I'm 300 with bike and gear 330 and my 32 spokes are good.

markhr

I used 32 spoke wheels but I did have a good LBS build them. The LBS used dtswiss stainless, 2.0 (14) straight gauge spokes, laced 3 cross with brass nipples. The wheels are very stiff and strong especially coupled with a good v or deep-v rim.

I had problems with machine built wheels and also non-eyelet rims. The wheel rebuild and a better quality, eyeletted rim solved the problems.

CliftonGK1

Well built 32h wheels should be fine. If you go with a machine built wheel, have it de/re-tensioned by your wheelsmith of choice and it will work well.
I've been riding 32h wheels for years (up to 260 pounds w/o gear and clothes) and have had no problems.

(51)

Yes.

DieselDan

Huh? How do you gain 30 pounds with all of your gear? Are you counting the whole bike?

Yes, a well built 32-spoke wheel will handle a 230 pound person, even a 300 pound person.

markhr

~10kg/22lbs on your back (gym clothes, heavy ass lock, shower kit, work clothes, etc.)

~5kg/10lbs of bike clothes, lights, tools, pump, water, etc.

so all in that's easily ~15kg/30lbs extra

chainzawz

ok since I am looking into getting wheels are you guys saying 32 for both front and back?

jaxgtr

I do now and will be doing the same on my new wheels I am having built. Like another poster said, as long as they are built right, they should be plenty

hammond9705

More important then the number of spokes is how well built the wheels are. Most bikes come with machine made wheels which tend to be not very strong. Like others said a well built 32 spoke wheel will work fine, but a poorly built 32 (or 36) spoke wheel will fail.

My last two sets of wheels I have had hand built and got 32 on the front and 36 on the rear and they have held up fine for 8k miles.

Kid-Cycle

If you like the bike, I say go for it. You should get a few thousand miles out of them before you have any problems (assuming they are decent wheels to begin with). I got about 4k miles out of a 32 spoke Mavic Open Pro before the rim failed (stress cracks around an eyelets. I now run a 36 spoke Mavic CXP 33 in the rear and kept the 32 spoke Mavic OP front wheel. I bought the 36 CXP laced to Ultegra hub for $150

CliftonGK1

I'm going to co-opt this thread for my question, since it's related to spoke count and wheel strength.

I know that a well-built 32h wheel is good enough for most punishment that I can dish out. At 235 pounds, I'm not exactly going to slaughter a pair of wheels.
I'm putting together a new build for commuting and long-distance riding, not touring, and I'm wondering about wheel selection.

+ The bike will be used for a daily commute carrying minimal gear. Lunch and a change of clothes, maximally. No heavyweight touring style loads at all.

+ The bike will be used for long-distance riding, but not touring. Again, minimalist loads and no big 50 pounds touring get-ups.

+ I will be riding a lot of night-time miles.

I'm trying to decide between 36h SON28/Ultegra hubs on Mavic MA3 rims using straight gauge spokes, the same combo with double-butted spokes, or a lighter weight 32h Open Pro or Deep V rim with the same choices of spokes?

What are the advantages of a d-b spoked wheel vs. straight gauge?
For long-distance riding, is the durability of a heavier rim like the MA3 worth the sacrifice in weight savings?

markhr

I was told to avoid these rims by a very experienced wheel builder. They have a tendency to crack at the spoke holes. Something to do with the hard anodizing and then hole punching, on what's already a very soft rim, causing small cracks.

You're probably better off with the open pro, CXP33 or similar quality rim.

CliftonGK1

Good to know!
I hear a lot about the Open Pro being a good hoop, and there's the long-standing debate of CXP33 vs. Deep V (if I were to go that route, but I'm leaning away from them). The MA3 was my lighter weight choice than the X719/T520.

I still need to read up on spoke choices, though...

adrien

I'll try, but keep in mind I'm a lay person. FWIW, I ended up with Deep Vs, 36 rear and 28 front. I'm 230 ish. More info on my story here: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=361926

As I understand it, DB spokes allow the spoke to flex slightly in the middle, which actually makes the wheel less likely to fail (like an airplane wing flexing), and they are a wee bit lighter.

Deep V section rims are stronger because of the V section, both because of the inherent strength of an arch strcuture over a box and because their height allows for shorter spokes assuming the same rim. But, they tend to be a wee bit heavier (I and many don't care, others do).

Finally, you need to also consider hub and nipples. Others know way more about hubs -- I chose something any LBS could service (ultegra). As for nipples, brass tend to be a wee bit heavier than alloy, but don't seize in the wet or have the same issues with adjustability over time.

Spoke count? It's a trade off between strength and weight. Again, I'd rather have a wheel I don't worry about, but don't want weight for NO reason.

Final point is the build and the builder. #1 factor in whether they stay true and reliable.

slyjackson

I have 24 spoke and I weighed 256 lbs a few months ago. I am 238ish now and I have not experience one problem. My wheels are still as true as the day I bought the bike. By the way I put 150 miles and more per week.

BikeDork02

Im currently using the Mavic Open Pro's laced into Ultegra Hubs with 32 spoke in the front and 36 in the back. They were handbuilt by quality wheelhouse and these things are SOLID. I got them right before the Amtrak Century (a pretty rough ride) and just had to slightly true the front wheel the next week. I hit a few potholes.

Since breaking them in they are bulletproof and pretty easy on the pocketbook as well.

powerglide

I way same as you and currently ride a carbon fiber bike. My other bike is a hybrid with 20 spoke wheels. I've had it for about 7 years, even ridden down some stairs...no problems.

werewolf

"As I understand it, DB spokes allow the spoke to flex slightly in the middle, which actually makes the wheel less likely to fail (like an airplane wing flexing), and they are a wee bit lighter."


That's the exact opposite theory to wiring and soldering the spokes.

CliftonGK1

Isn't tying/soldering the spokes more of a track thing to keep from losing any power to wheel flex?