3 Speed Sturmey Archer, Skips Need Help
#1
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3 Speed Sturmey Archer, Skips Need Help
I picked up a Schwinn Breeze 3speed. It was a real garage queen, hanging in the garage of the original owner for many years. I took the bike out for a quick spin and all worked well. I added a few drops of oil to the 3 speed Sturmey Archer rear, routine maintenance. A few days later I was getting ready to remove the chain for cleaning when I noticed that when the chain spins the rear gear, but the gear isn't engaging. Occaisionally, I can get the gear to engage, but if I back pedal or just let it coast, the gear disengages. Whatever is wrong, it's inside the hub. I tried changing the tension on the shifting cable, but that didn't help. Has anyone ever had anything like this? Is the rear hub toast? Any help is appreciated.
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Try running some paint thinner or kerosene in the hub to help clean it out, then add the oil. BTW DO NOT do this over any surface you don't want stained.
Follow the adjustment procedures in Sheldon Brown's tutorial
Other than that, tear down time. They are not horribly complicated and parts are available.
BTW what year is on the hub?
Aaron
Follow the adjustment procedures in Sheldon Brown's tutorial
Other than that, tear down time. They are not horribly complicated and parts are available.
BTW what year is on the hub?
Aaron
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#3
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Seeing as it was sitting/hanging for a long time I would say that the hub is dry.Try adding more oil.The worst that will happen is some might leak out.If that doesn't do it then try what wahoonc suggested.
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Thanks for the input. I think I have a better handle as to what is going on. I added more oil last night. While the problem is still there, it is not as bad as yesterday. Its acting just like a freewheel where the palls (sp) are not dropping. This morning I combined both recommendations and added a small amount of lightweight oil and I'm going to add a drop of kerosene, then allow 24 hours and try again.
I didn't mention yesterday that I was having trouble shifting yesterday. Today, that problem is gone.
I didn't mention yesterday that I was having trouble shifting yesterday. Today, that problem is gone.
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Thanks for the input. I think I have a better handle as to what is going on. I added more oil last night. While the problem is still there, it is not as bad as yesterday. Its acting just like a freewheel where the palls (sp) are not dropping. This morning I combined both recommendations and added a small amount of lightweight oil and I'm going to add a drop of kerosene, then allow 24 hours and try again.
I didn't mention yesterday that I was having trouble shifting yesterday. Today, that problem is gone.
I didn't mention yesterday that I was having trouble shifting yesterday. Today, that problem is gone.
Aaron
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Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
Webshots is bailing out, if you find any of my posts with corrupt picture files and want to see them corrected please let me know. :(
ISO: A late 1980's Giant Iguana MTB frameset (or complete bike) 23" Red with yellow graphics.
"Cycling should be a way of life, not a hobby.
RIDE, YOU FOOL, RIDE!"_Nicodemus
"Steel: nearly a thousand years of metallurgical development
Aluminum: barely a hundred
Which one would you rather have under your butt at 30mph?"_krazygluon
#6
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Also could be a spindle adjustment issue - if it's not tight enough in the first gear, it will get stuck between gears and not engage. But gunky hub is more probable. A ton of oil, and ride it around, or pull the hub apart and clean.
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Looks like most of the possibilities have been mentioned. Have you adjusted the cable tension properly?
I have had good luck squirting some PB Blaster into the hub and running it a bit, then setting the bike so most of the stuff will run out the axle end of the hub before refilling with SAE20 oil. It is possible to wear a SA AW out I am told, but mostly it is just rust or gunk from sitting around unused for decades and PB Blaster takes care of either of those problems.
I have had good luck squirting some PB Blaster into the hub and running it a bit, then setting the bike so most of the stuff will run out the axle end of the hub before refilling with SAE20 oil. It is possible to wear a SA AW out I am told, but mostly it is just rust or gunk from sitting around unused for decades and PB Blaster takes care of either of those problems.
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You'll probably find that it will loosen up the more you ride it as well.Get everything working again.That's the worst thing you can do to a Sturmey hub,is let it sit for a long time.Just think what would happen to the engine in your car if you didn't start it for 20 years!
#9
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I am surprised nobody has mentioned it yet, but it sounds like the cable tension isn't correct. This is VERY common.
Experiment with half turns on the cable tension adjust (that thumb adjuster that is attached to the tiny jewelry chain attached to the actuator pin). It is hard to tell from here which way you need to go - looser or tighter, but go in half turns because it only takes a little adjustment to get it right (or wrong)
Experiment with half turns on the cable tension adjust (that thumb adjuster that is attached to the tiny jewelry chain attached to the actuator pin). It is hard to tell from here which way you need to go - looser or tighter, but go in half turns because it only takes a little adjustment to get it right (or wrong)
#10
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I agree with Mike. Yes, it does need oil after all those years, but the simplest sign of skipping is that the cable is too loose. You can tighten that from the SA indicator spindle , or the cable itself.