Mr IGH

You're 6' tall with long legs, you have a short torso compared with average. That means you're in-between.

center to center for the top tube?
center to top for the seat tube?

If yes and assuming that's the bike you ride (in the attached pix) and you like the set up;

If you get the 58cm CX, the top tube is 10mm shorter than your LeTour. You'll be able to fit yourself on a 58mm CX, you'll have even more seatpost out and the bars will be lower (by one inch).

If you get the 61cm CX, the top tube is 10mm longer, you'll have 1/2" less seatpost sticking out and the bars will be 1/2" higher than your LeTour. Again, you'll be able to fit the bike.

When you're riding your present bike, do you feel like you're reaching too far for the bars? If so, I'd consider the 61cm, esp if I was older and had a stiff back (then purchase a short stem). If you feel comfortable and could reach down further, then perhaps the shorter 58cm is right (with a longer stem).

rumrunn6

I think it's absurd that modern bike stems don't allow at least a few inches of adjustment up and down.

THANK YOU for that info, you have helped me a lot!

re:
center to center for the top tube? --- I think so - it may have been from outside edge to outside edge (so center to center would be an inch shorter?

center to top for the seat tube? --- Yes

Little Darwin

Because of my personal dislike of the Sora shifters, I would for about the same price from BD prefer the Windsor Touring.

I can't downshift in the drops with Sora, and I have big hands. I know it isn't a huge deal, and I spend virtually no time in the drops, but it is enough to keep me from riding Sora if I can get Tiagra at roughly the same cost.

This is a minor issue, and if you are really wanting a Cross frame over a Touring frame, probably not enough difference to matter... But, either one would probably be a suitable commuter, depending on your specific needs.

rumrunn6

Thanks Little Darwin - your comments are exactly why I posted here. I need to try those two kinds of shifters to see if I prefer one over the other.

I would be open to another frame, but now need to do more research.

Mr IGH

Make sure, 10mm is important. Here's the CX geometery:

https://motobecane.com/ftx_geometry.html

tjspiel

I've used Soras + older 105s and Ultegras

Though I can't shift Soras from the drops either, they do have two advantages that are at least worth considering. One is that at least for me, they are easier to shift with gloves on. The other is that the reach is adjustable with a screw. Why Shimano doesn't do this with their other shifters is beyond me. Maybe they do now. If so, that would be great.

Overall, I don't like the Soras as much but they work fine and they have advantages as I've mentioned.

Little Darwin

Soras are the one group that is significantly different than any other integrated group in the Shimano line.

And, some people do prefer them...

I think I would actually prefer the thumb shifters when riding in the hoods... but the differences are something to consider. Ease of shifting in gloves isn't something I had considered, but might make sense for a commuter.

I do seem to recall that some other Shimano shifters offer adjustable reach now, but I don't know if Tiagra is one of them.

nashcommguy

Got one of the Fantom Cx's last year w/my tax bonus check(499.00US w/no shipping...self assembled)
Yellow w/a black fork. 50/36t frt and 12x26t rear. Changed the 36t to a 40t and upgraded to some 28mm SMPs. Added a Delta Mega rack, Jandd Saddle bags, 2 NR Trailrats w/universal taillight and 3 PB Superflash. Have had one flat and a slow leak developed over the last 2 weeks, so I got a new rear tire(28mm SMP) and patched the tube. Have well over 7000 commuting miles in the last year on this bike w/minimal maintenance. Noticed the new ones have a triple crankset...not a fan, except for touring. Great bike for the money. Solid , dependable and most of all, low maintenance. I'll ride it another year, put it Craigslist and buy another one. BTW, My commute is 35 mi rt w/rolling hills and one 18% .5 mi grade on the way home. While it certainly wont garner any snob appeal who give a **** what anyone thinks about one's steed, anyway?

rumrunn6

nashcommguy - WOW, that's quite a testimonial! Would love to see it. I don't understand everythign you mentioned but that's OK. Did you keep the stock shifters? Can you operate them with gloves?

BTW: impressive commute!!!!!!!!!

Caspar_s

Re: snob appeal and looking cheap.

What exactly are you saying is bad? The frame? So if I got this or one of the more expensive ones like the fantom pro, and a cross check frame and swapped the parts over would it pass the snob test? I mean the components are standard right? So what is different from any other Sora/tiagra based bike?

Hey, this thread did say opinions on it Just trying to understand where they fit in.

noglider 

I find that removing decals usually adds snob appeal. I have a bike with no decals, and people say, "Ooh, what is that?"

nashcommguy

Same here. My singlespeed and 1x8 RB are conversions that I had SB and PC. Neither have any decals. Lots of querys as to what kind. Some snif, some go, WOW! Bike snobs... Who cares? You're out there, right? That's all that matters.



Sorry to have not rs'ed until now. Have been busy. Haven't been online, not to mention BF for several days. Yes, I kept the stock shifters, etc. I operated them w/mittens(Gordini Summit 2 from https://www.campmor.com ) this past winter. The only thing I changed out were the tires. The stock tires were Kenda Kwick 30mm cross. Too soft for street use. Got my 1st flat within 2 weeks. Went to Schwalbe Marathon Plus and had the aforementioned results. Would post pics, but I'm PC challanged and don't know how. When I learn how I'll post some.

BTW, PM as to what you didn't understand because I use alot of shorthand in my posts like 'SMP' figuring eveybody will know what that means.

Crast

I have the fantom CX in grey w/ black fork, and it does triple duty: It is a commuter with slick tires, rack & panniers, I ride it with cross tires in the snow for fun, and ride it on the trail doing singletrack.

The frame is surprisingly good, and like others said the only downside is the sora brifters. It holds up very well.

nashcommguy

Exactly. The Fantom Pro is the same frame geometry/material w/upgraded comps. The 2010 Fantom CX has a triple crank, etc., but they're essentially the same bike.

Some of the earlier posts mentioned BD as having a bit of a dubious rep. Either from cheap bikes or indifferent service. One poster said he can do all his own mechanical work including wheel-building. I fall into this catagory, also. So, a BD buy works for me. Truthfully, I expected alot more trouble from this bike than I've experienced. But, I was prepared for it.

BTW, OP you and I are around the same height. I think a 56cm would be a better fit than a 58. Just MHO. The stem is a little long, but I'm only on the hoods when shifting. Otherwise, I'm on the curves or drops. This puts me back on the saddle on my 'sit bones' thus eliminating numbness of the hands and/or behind. I use Spenco Ironman gloves which help a great deal for hand numbness. https://www.bikeisland.com 20 or 30.00 depending on which pair.

RT

You may want to get the opinion of someone who is less ambiguous about why they like or dislike their purchase from BD. Talk to patentcad over in the Roadie forum. He purchased a Motobecane Fly Ti and loves it.

rumrunn6

reg fit, I like the drops but like them up higher; at the height of my seat, always hard to find a way to bring them up that high. I find ridign with my hands down by my ankles rediculous and unecessary. I also think buying a bike with drops only to ride on the hoods is a bit pointless.

A friend of mine has been saying: "cycling" has turned into a rich man's sport.

I'm putting the new bike on hold, especially buying on-line due to issues with fit and the additional cost associated with tweaking the fit after delivery. I can turn a wrench too but I don't see the sense in buying a bike and then buying steerer tubes and stems, etc to get it to fit. I'm also not "sold" on any specific model yet.

I bought 3 old steel bikes thios weekend and built another commuter. I know I'm all over the place but buying and fixing bikes makes me happy and riding a new bike makes me happy. I also don't feel so bad about beating them up because the old bike parts are practically all interchangeable.

My neighbor asked: "is it light" and then tried to lift it. He couldn't. His wife them said - why is it not light? it looks light. I just can't talk to people like that.

Caspar_s

Well, personally I don't care what people think of what I ride - two of my previous ones were cheap bikes - Walmart quality. Just trying to figure out what part of it is quality bias and what is just the name.

So did your bike have stickers or did you have to repaint? I have a raleigh that I got from a neighbour that has no decals - and that was one of the things I was looking at doing if I got a Fantom.(although I've been eyeing the pro instead of the CX) Most bikes seem to have the names painted on now though.

noglider 

My decal-less bike is called McLean, made in 1982. I had it repainted in about 1991, with no decals. I would have put McLean decals on them if they were available, but they weren't. As far as I know, all frames were built by one pair of hands, and the owner of those hands died suddenly at the age of 29. He had only made a few, so mine might be a collector's item. But I ride it because I like to.

https://www.classicrendezvous.com/USA...clean_main.htm

I ought to post pictures of it. It's a nice bike. People look at me funny for riding such old stuff, but it suits me just fine.

PlatyPius

While I am no fan of BD, the bikes aren't *that* bad. They sometimes screw up the bottom bracket, and the wheels are almost always not tensioned properly. That goes for just about any bike though (tensioning). The difference is, a bike shop tensions it properly before you buy it. BD doesn't.

Some shops will fit you, suggest the proper size BD bike to order, accept delivery of the bike, and build it up for you. We do. Depending on the bike, this costs $60-$90. Usually closer to $60. If the bottom bracket is cross-threaded, it ends up being $90. We did this recently for one of our Team In Training guys.

If you want to know how the bike will fit, ride a Raleigh or a Fuji. The frames are made by Kinesis, which also makes Raleigh's frames (and I think Fuji as well).