Is there a wrench for this?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 5,096
Bikes: many
Mentioned: 63 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1446 Post(s)
Liked 1,395 Times
in
762 Posts
Is there a wrench for this?
This pic is of the seatpost bolt nut on my Univega Super Speciale. I've never been really successful holding it in place while snugging up the bolt. I've tried screwdrivers, nickels, chainring bolt wrenches. Nothing seems to work well. Of course, my seatpost slipped while out in the "wilds" of Michigan just now (a bit south of South Haven). I've done what I can to tighten it up, but suspect it will slip again (yes, I have the proper size seatpost).
Is there a wrench for this beastie? If not, I think something like JB Weld will hold it in place. If I was going to get the frame painted, I'd probably just have it brazed in place.
Is there a wrench for this beastie? If not, I think something like JB Weld will hold it in place. If I was going to get the frame painted, I'd probably just have it brazed in place.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 2,820
Mentioned: 49 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1106 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,328 Times
in
784 Posts
That is an example of form over function (I am being charitable here).
Best replaced entirely, with something that will let you get a good grip on both ends.
You might find a bog-standard seatpost-bolt nut of the recessed variety will fit in the frame socket; if so file off the tang and cut it carefully to length, such that it bears on the internal flange of the frame-socket, not on the rim (leave a little gap there to allow for wear).
Best replaced entirely, with something that will let you get a good grip on both ends.
You might find a bog-standard seatpost-bolt nut of the recessed variety will fit in the frame socket; if so file off the tang and cut it carefully to length, such that it bears on the internal flange of the frame-socket, not on the rim (leave a little gap there to allow for wear).
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Menomonee Falls, WI
Posts: 1,834
Bikes: 1984 Schwinn Supersport, 1988 Trek 400T, 1977 Trek TX900, 1982 Bianchi Champione del Mondo, 1978 Raleigh Supercourse, 1986 Trek 400 Elance, 1991 Waterford PDG OS Paramount, 1971 Schwinn Sports Tourer, 1985 Trek 670
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 604 Post(s)
Liked 1,064 Times
in
535 Posts
Can’t you just get a new binder bolt, pretty cheap for cr-mo one on Amazon, or you could break the bank and get a Campy, either would look way better, and stop your seat post from slipping. If that were my bike, just the look of that thing, as it is, would drive me nuts.
Tim
Tim
Last edited by tkamd73; 07-25-22 at 08:08 AM.
Likes For stardognine:
#6
Senior Member
almost looks like the back part of a chainring bolt, maybe try a chainring wrench
__________________
Semper fi
Semper fi
Likes For sloar:
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Peoria, IL
Posts: 4,478
Mentioned: 86 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1829 Post(s)
Liked 3,376 Times
in
1,580 Posts
The suggestions to replace the bolt and nut with something more user friendly seem like a good idea too.
I'm really just here to suggest bearing retainer compound instead of JB Weld (even though I'm about to use JB Weld for a small job myself).
I suspect bearing retainer compound might provide enough grip to do the job while still permitting removal of the nut in the future.
Something like this perhaps?
It might be worth perusing the websites for the companies making threadlocking compounds, bearing retainer compounds, etc. They sometimes have charts or tools to identify the best product for a particular task.
Steve in Peoria
#8
USAF Veteran
That "nut" is toast. I would replace with the double allen like above. If you're adamant about getting a matching replacement (assuming it's original) Ace hardware (if local) may have it. Grainger's, McMasters and other online sources certainly will have it. It's just a round slotted nut.
#9
Partially Sane.
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Sunny Sacramento.
Posts: 3,559
Bikes: Soma Saga, pre-disc
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 972 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 643 Times
in
468 Posts
I just remembered something, some bolt heads have a weird little tang, that sits in a notch, which keeps it from spinning. See if flipping it around might reveal that to you. 🤔
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Evanston, IL
Posts: 5,096
Bikes: many
Mentioned: 63 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1446 Post(s)
Liked 1,395 Times
in
762 Posts
Thanks for the suggestions, even the more expensive monetary one. A nickel was the largest coin I had in my pocket at the time.
I was literally on my ride when I wrote (still am, at a coffee stop in South Haven), so hopefully you'll understand that details were kept to a minimum. The bolt and nut are meant for the seatpost binder. I doubt a Campy style binder bolt will work (though I have a couple to try back at home). The bolt itself is your normal diameter thing, while the Campy thing is much larger diameter. Frame surgery not gonna happen.
While I ride back to the beach house I'll leave you with a puzzle too solve. I think I know why it happened, but you get to speculate wildly. I test rode the bike before coming up. Everything was fine. When I set out on my ride this morning I heard this horrible grinding from down by the bottom bracket. "Oh no, that doesn't sound good at all!" I stopped and investigated a little. If I turned the crank, it made the sound once per cycle, no matter if I spun the crank forward or backward. I peeked they the bb shell window and was reminded that I have a Tange Seiki sealed bottom bracket, so that wasn't likely to be the cause. It took a minute to figure out what the problem was. The fix was pretty trivial.
So, two questions for the assembled experts. One, what was the problem? Two, what caused it? Hint: I use a Saris Bones rack. The first to answer both questions correctly will get a small bike-related gift in the mail.
I was literally on my ride when I wrote (still am, at a coffee stop in South Haven), so hopefully you'll understand that details were kept to a minimum. The bolt and nut are meant for the seatpost binder. I doubt a Campy style binder bolt will work (though I have a couple to try back at home). The bolt itself is your normal diameter thing, while the Campy thing is much larger diameter. Frame surgery not gonna happen.
While I ride back to the beach house I'll leave you with a puzzle too solve. I think I know why it happened, but you get to speculate wildly. I test rode the bike before coming up. Everything was fine. When I set out on my ride this morning I heard this horrible grinding from down by the bottom bracket. "Oh no, that doesn't sound good at all!" I stopped and investigated a little. If I turned the crank, it made the sound once per cycle, no matter if I spun the crank forward or backward. I peeked they the bb shell window and was reminded that I have a Tange Seiki sealed bottom bracket, so that wasn't likely to be the cause. It took a minute to figure out what the problem was. The fix was pretty trivial.
So, two questions for the assembled experts. One, what was the problem? Two, what caused it? Hint: I use a Saris Bones rack. The first to answer both questions correctly will get a small bike-related gift in the mail.
#11
Partially Sane.
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Sunny Sacramento.
Posts: 3,559
Bikes: Soma Saga, pre-disc
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 972 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 643 Times
in
468 Posts
I dunno, I keep thinking it was your pants leg hitting something, but you were probably wearing shorts. 🤔
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Madison, WI USA
Posts: 6,157
Mentioned: 50 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2364 Post(s)
Liked 1,751 Times
in
1,193 Posts
Strap from the Bones rack left hanging on the frame somewhere, hitting one of the crank arms as it goes by?
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 13,447
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4236 Post(s)
Liked 2,949 Times
in
1,808 Posts
Is that just a stripped out allen bolt that someone cut a screwdriver slot into?
#14
Edumacator
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 6,820
Bikes: '87 Crestdale, '87 Basso Gap, '92 Rossin Performance EL-OS, 1990 VanTuyl, 1980s Losa, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 1987 PX10, etc...
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2440 Post(s)
Liked 3,135 Times
in
1,974 Posts
It probably has something to do with the secondary strappy thing that stabilizes back and forth I presume? YOu forgot to detach it and it stayed on the seat-tube where it interferes.
Or the strap moved the front derailleur enough the pedal hits it.
Or the strap moved the front derailleur enough the pedal hits it.
Thanks for the suggestions, even the more expensive monetary one. A nickel was the largest coin I had in my pocket at the time.
I was literally on my ride when I wrote (still am, at a coffee stop in South Haven), so hopefully you'll understand that details were kept to a minimum. The bolt and nut are meant for the seatpost binder. I doubt a Campy style binder bolt will work (though I have a couple to try back at home). The bolt itself is your normal diameter thing, while the Campy thing is much larger diameter. Frame surgery not gonna happen.
While I ride back to the beach house I'll leave you with a puzzle too solve. I think I know why it happened, but you get to speculate wildly. I test rode the bike before coming up. Everything was fine. When I set out on my ride this morning I heard this horrible grinding from down by the bottom bracket. "Oh no, that doesn't sound good at all!" I stopped and investigated a little. If I turned the crank, it made the sound once per cycle, no matter if I spun the crank forward or backward. I peeked they the bb shell window and was reminded that I have a Tange Seiki sealed bottom bracket, so that wasn't likely to be the cause. It took a minute to figure out what the problem was. The fix was pretty trivial.
So, two questions for the assembled experts. One, what was the problem? Two, what caused it? Hint: I use a Saris Bones rack. The first to answer both questions correctly will get a small bike-related gift in the mail.
I was literally on my ride when I wrote (still am, at a coffee stop in South Haven), so hopefully you'll understand that details were kept to a minimum. The bolt and nut are meant for the seatpost binder. I doubt a Campy style binder bolt will work (though I have a couple to try back at home). The bolt itself is your normal diameter thing, while the Campy thing is much larger diameter. Frame surgery not gonna happen.
While I ride back to the beach house I'll leave you with a puzzle too solve. I think I know why it happened, but you get to speculate wildly. I test rode the bike before coming up. Everything was fine. When I set out on my ride this morning I heard this horrible grinding from down by the bottom bracket. "Oh no, that doesn't sound good at all!" I stopped and investigated a little. If I turned the crank, it made the sound once per cycle, no matter if I spun the crank forward or backward. I peeked they the bb shell window and was reminded that I have a Tange Seiki sealed bottom bracket, so that wasn't likely to be the cause. It took a minute to figure out what the problem was. The fix was pretty trivial.
So, two questions for the assembled experts. One, what was the problem? Two, what caused it? Hint: I use a Saris Bones rack. The first to answer both questions correctly will get a small bike-related gift in the mail.
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#18
Klaatu..Verata..Necktie?
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 17,984
Bikes: Litespeed Ultimate, Ultegra; Canyon Endurace, 105; Battaglin MAX, Chorus; Bianchi 928 Veloce; Ritchey Road Logic, Dura Ace; Cannondale R500 RX100; Schwinn Circuit, Sante; Lotus Supreme, Dura Ace
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10440 Post(s)
Liked 11,914 Times
in
6,101 Posts
Can’t you just get a new binder bolt, pretty cheap for cr-mo one on Amazon, or you could break the bank and get a Campy, either would look way better, and stop your seat post from slipping. If that were my bike, just the look of that thing, as it is, would drive me nuts.
Tim
Tim
__________________
"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
"Everybody's gotta be somewhere." - Eccles
"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
"Everybody's gotta be somewhere." - Eccles
#19
blahblahblah chrome moly
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,994
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1181 Post(s)
Liked 2,576 Times
in
1,076 Posts
I have some nuts that are a plain cylinder with M6 thread and a 6 mm allen socket. They came with Gipiemme brake bridges, for recessed brake mounting. Not the normal "top hat" shape of brake nut though, just the cylinder without the flange. Oh right, here's a picture:
They are somewhat precious to me but I will sell one for $10 shipped in the US, if that'll help you. It'll leave me with one brake bridge without a nut, but I'm unlikely to use that bridge anyway...
One disadvantage of this type is the bolt needs to be just the right length. Too long and it fills up the allen socket; too short and you don't have enough threads engaged. A stainless bolt can be trimmed to just the right length without the cut end rusting, if that matters to you.
Dimensions 10 mm diameter, 10 mm long, 6 mm length of threads. Chrome plated.
Mark B in Seattle
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,795
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3514 Post(s)
Liked 2,927 Times
in
1,776 Posts
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Madison, WI USA
Posts: 6,157
Mentioned: 50 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2364 Post(s)
Liked 1,751 Times
in
1,193 Posts
There are different sizes of chainring NUT wrenches (you use an allen wrench on the bolt....), but I think they're still all too large for the OP's purpose.
Burning question - is there a notch in the hole on the NDS ear for a conventional binder nut with a tab to lock into? (Or on the DS ear, for that matter?)
Burning question - is there a notch in the hole on the NDS ear for a conventional binder nut with a tab to lock into? (Or on the DS ear, for that matter?)
#23
Newbie
Thanks for the suggestions, even the more expensive monetary one. A nickel was the largest coin I had in my pocket at the time.
I was literally on my ride when I wrote (still am, at a coffee stop in South Haven), so hopefully you'll understand that details were kept to a minimum. The bolt and nut are meant for the seatpost binder. I doubt a Campy style binder bolt will work (though I have a couple to try back at home). The bolt itself is your normal diameter thing, while the Campy thing is much larger diameter. Frame surgery not gonna happen.
While I ride back to the beach house I'll leave you with a puzzle too solve. I think I know why it happened, but you get to speculate wildly. I test rode the bike before coming up. Everything was fine. When I set out on my ride this morning I heard this horrible grinding from down by the bottom bracket. "Oh no, that doesn't sound good at all!" I stopped and investigated a little. If I turned the crank, it made the sound once per cycle, no matter if I spun the crank forward or backward. I peeked they the bb shell window and was reminded that I have a Tange Seiki sealed bottom bracket, so that wasn't likely to be the cause. It took a minute to figure out what the problem was. The fix was pretty trivial.
So, two questions for the assembled experts. One, what was the problem? Two, what caused it? Hint: I use a Saris Bones rack. The first to answer both questions correctly will get a small bike-related gift in the mail.
I was literally on my ride when I wrote (still am, at a coffee stop in South Haven), so hopefully you'll understand that details were kept to a minimum. The bolt and nut are meant for the seatpost binder. I doubt a Campy style binder bolt will work (though I have a couple to try back at home). The bolt itself is your normal diameter thing, while the Campy thing is much larger diameter. Frame surgery not gonna happen.
While I ride back to the beach house I'll leave you with a puzzle too solve. I think I know why it happened, but you get to speculate wildly. I test rode the bike before coming up. Everything was fine. When I set out on my ride this morning I heard this horrible grinding from down by the bottom bracket. "Oh no, that doesn't sound good at all!" I stopped and investigated a little. If I turned the crank, it made the sound once per cycle, no matter if I spun the crank forward or backward. I peeked they the bb shell window and was reminded that I have a Tange Seiki sealed bottom bracket, so that wasn't likely to be the cause. It took a minute to figure out what the problem was. The fix was pretty trivial.
So, two questions for the assembled experts. One, what was the problem? Two, what caused it? Hint: I use a Saris Bones rack. The first to answer both questions correctly will get a small bike-related gift in the mail.
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: PDX
Posts: 13,047
Bikes: Merz x 5 + Specialized Merz Allez x 2, Strawberry/Newlands/DiNucci/Ti x3, Gordon, Fuso/Moulton x2, Bornstein, Paisley,1958-74 Paramounts x3, 3rensho, 74 Moto TC, 73-78 Raleigh Pro's x5, Marinoni x2, 1960 Cinelli SC, 1980 Bianchi SC, PX-10 X 2
Mentioned: 267 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4513 Post(s)
Liked 6,388 Times
in
3,673 Posts
This pic is of the seatpost bolt nut on my Univega Super Speciale. I've never been really successful holding it in place while snugging up the bolt. I've tried screwdrivers, nickels, chainring bolt wrenches. Nothing seems to work well. Of course, my seatpost slipped while out in the "wilds" of Michigan just now (a bit south of South Haven). I've done what I can to tighten it up, but suspect it will slip again (yes, I have the proper size seatpost).
Is there a wrench for this beastie? If not, I think something like JB Weld will hold it in place. If I was going to get the frame painted, I'd probably just have it brazed in place.
Is there a wrench for this beastie? If not, I think something like JB Weld will hold it in place. If I was going to get the frame painted, I'd probably just have it brazed in place.
https://www.acehardware.com/departme...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Get one of these and grind down the sides to fit if necessary, short, stubby and stout
Clean up that slotted nut and do whatever it takes to keep it in use, no way I would replace it unless I absolutely had too.
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,306
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1143 Post(s)
Liked 1,753 Times
in
966 Posts
Yeah I thought those nuts had a nub on the backside. It may be intended to fit on the Left side of the bike ('non-drive side" for those who have trouble with right-left)
I have some nuts that are a plain cylinder with M6 thread and a 6 mm allen socket. They came with Gipiemme brake bridges, for recessed brake mounting. Not the normal "top hat" shape of brake nut though, just the cylinder without the flange. Oh right, here's a picture:
They are somewhat precious to me but I will sell one for $10 shipped in the US, if that'll help you. It'll leave me with one brake bridge without a nut, but I'm unlikely to use that bridge anyway...
One disadvantage of this type is the bolt needs to be just the right length. Too long and it fills up the allen socket; too short and you don't have enough threads engaged. A stainless bolt can be trimmed to just the right length without the cut end rusting, if that matters to you.
Dimensions 10 mm diameter, 10 mm long, 6 mm length of threads. Chrome plated.
Mark B in Seattle
I have some nuts that are a plain cylinder with M6 thread and a 6 mm allen socket. They came with Gipiemme brake bridges, for recessed brake mounting. Not the normal "top hat" shape of brake nut though, just the cylinder without the flange. Oh right, here's a picture:
They are somewhat precious to me but I will sell one for $10 shipped in the US, if that'll help you. It'll leave me with one brake bridge without a nut, but I'm unlikely to use that bridge anyway...
One disadvantage of this type is the bolt needs to be just the right length. Too long and it fills up the allen socket; too short and you don't have enough threads engaged. A stainless bolt can be trimmed to just the right length without the cut end rusting, if that matters to you.
Dimensions 10 mm diameter, 10 mm long, 6 mm length of threads. Chrome plated.
Mark B in Seattle