$200 from a 90's Trek 850 Mountain Track?
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$200 from a 90's Trek 850 Mountain Track?
So I'm looking at a new to me bike and something that is a heavy hybrid/old school MTB makes sense for the trail riding and trail-a-bike towing. But is this a good price for a bike of this vintage: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...7135735733944/
I know the current situation has inflated prices so I'm wondering if this is still a good price for this.
Thoughts?
I know the current situation has inflated prices so I'm wondering if this is still a good price for this.
Thoughts?
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It isn't bad. If the bike is ready to ride and doesn't need any work, than $200 seems fair. The 850 was a nice frame, so you could even upgrade the wheels and drivetrain around that frame someday.. Depending on the year, it may be a made in Wisconsin Trek, and full chromoly frame and fork.
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Based on Vintage-Trek's color and year description I think it is a '95.
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https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/...k%20&model=850
The hard part of this is knowing or not knowing whether the bike needs some work, and if it does, can you do the work yourself, or are you planning on paying a bike shop to do it. Because if that is the case, repairs can add up pretty fast. That said, even if you had to put $100, even $200 into it, probably still better than what you could get for $300 or $400 these days, which is usually junk.
The hard part of this is knowing or not knowing whether the bike needs some work, and if it does, can you do the work yourself, or are you planning on paying a bike shop to do it. Because if that is the case, repairs can add up pretty fast. That said, even if you had to put $100, even $200 into it, probably still better than what you could get for $300 or $400 these days, which is usually junk.
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Pre covid I would pay about $100 - $120 ish for that sort of bike. With covid? I haven't been tracking prices lately but if its in good shape probably the price is about right.
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https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/...k%20&model=850
The hard part of this is knowing or not knowing whether the bike needs some work, and if it does, can you do the work yourself, or are you planning on paying a bike shop to do it. Because if that is the case, repairs can add up pretty fast. That said, even if you had to put $100, even $200 into it, probably still better than what you could get for $300 or $400 these days, which is usually junk.
The hard part of this is knowing or not knowing whether the bike needs some work, and if it does, can you do the work yourself, or are you planning on paying a bike shop to do it. Because if that is the case, repairs can add up pretty fast. That said, even if you had to put $100, even $200 into it, probably still better than what you could get for $300 or $400 these days, which is usually junk.
And I hear what you are saying about price for cost. Though I tend to trawl the used markets myself versus buying new.
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Other than that, the $200 seems fair. It's light years above a brand new $200 Walmart bike that you could buy.
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Thread moved from MTB to C&V Appraisals
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What kind of trail riding are we talking here? If it's the typical single track trails that exist today that rigid bike will beat you up.
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Ready to ride, probably worth 200. Tig welded frame, so pretty sure Taiwan built, earlier lugged frames made in USA.
Tim
Tim
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$200 might be a bit high for an 850. The 800 series are lower-end mtn bike in Trek's lineup. If you can find something in the 900 series (preferably 950 or 970) you'll get a lighter bike with better components. They often go into the $300s to get them, but I see them in the $200 range fairly often. A Specialized Rockhopper or Stumpjumper (all of these bikes in the early-mid 1990's era) would be comparable quality to the 900 Trek series.
If this 850 was ready to ride(didn't need anything in the short term, beyond some minor adjustment and cleaning) then $200 is close enough to a decent price.
Be sure to do a close check on the wheels! Are they round(not dented from hopping curbs..or rocks..)? If the wheels are in poor shape then I'd pass as a new(er) set would make it a non-starter(for me). Check the bearings (headset, bottom bracket, hubs).
If it's a go..then put a good set of tires on it..the existing ones will prove tiresome for the type of riding you'll be doing. Schwalbe Big Bens can handle mild off road and are great on roads/rail trails. Bike24 had good prices(and inventory) in recent months.
If this 850 was ready to ride(didn't need anything in the short term, beyond some minor adjustment and cleaning) then $200 is close enough to a decent price.
Be sure to do a close check on the wheels! Are they round(not dented from hopping curbs..or rocks..)? If the wheels are in poor shape then I'd pass as a new(er) set would make it a non-starter(for me). Check the bearings (headset, bottom bracket, hubs).
If it's a go..then put a good set of tires on it..the existing ones will prove tiresome for the type of riding you'll be doing. Schwalbe Big Bens can handle mild off road and are great on roads/rail trails. Bike24 had good prices(and inventory) in recent months.
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OP..for reference sake..check this thread out.
https://www.bikeforums.net/touring/1...s-touring.html
The guy is running Schwalbe Super Moto-X tires (similar to the Big Bens, but heavier duty) primarily off-road. He says they're doing great.
https://www.bikeforums.net/touring/1...s-touring.html
The guy is running Schwalbe Super Moto-X tires (similar to the Big Bens, but heavier duty) primarily off-road. He says they're doing great.
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I would love a 900 series but those are really thin on the ground here. So I go with what I can find.
As for those Big Bens, Bike24 has nothing now but bike tires direct has them for $44 a tire. That sound good?
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It'll be a good ride.
Looks like Bike24 has 23 in stock at $22 each. I think shipping to the USA is $19(??). Just do a search in the box on top for Big Bens directly, they should pop up.
Looks like Bike24 has 23 in stock at $22 each. I think shipping to the USA is $19(??). Just do a search in the box on top for Big Bens directly, they should pop up.
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I had an 850 circa that period and think the deal is fair (and would have been OK pre-COVID) if it fits you and has nothing seemingly amiss. FWIW, my bike had superb wheels and acceptable components. Of course a 970 or 990 (not necessarily 950) will be better, but nothing wrong with an 850 for trail riding.
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Update:
So I got it for $180 because the rear shifter didn't work at all and I thought I could suss it out. So I clean, it do a cable swap, and nothing. I poke at the mechanism, do a bit more cleaning, swap the rear tube, and realize how the last owner(s) rode this in the big ring up front and the 2 smallest in back and they are super worn. Ugh, I know better but still just went with what i first noticed and didn't look even slightly more closely. I overpaid.
With that depressing thought I go to the LBS since I can't figure out what is going on with the rear shifter and find out:
I feel a bit of regret over the buying but not the bike if that makes sense.
So I got it for $180 because the rear shifter didn't work at all and I thought I could suss it out. So I clean, it do a cable swap, and nothing. I poke at the mechanism, do a bit more cleaning, swap the rear tube, and realize how the last owner(s) rode this in the big ring up front and the 2 smallest in back and they are super worn. Ugh, I know better but still just went with what i first noticed and didn't look even slightly more closely. I overpaid.
With that depressing thought I go to the LBS since I can't figure out what is going on with the rear shifter and find out:
- Both shifters have issues and need to be swapped.
- The crank is part of the Shimano crank (and everything attached) recall. this i hold off on because our independent LBS is becoming a trek shop so I have to wait for the shift. My opinions about the shift are ehhhhhh.
I feel a bit of regret over the buying but not the bike if that makes sense.
#19
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Thoughts?
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Update:
So I got it for $180 because the rear shifter didn't work at all and I thought I could suss it out. So I clean, it do a cable swap, and nothing. I poke at the mechanism, do a bit more cleaning, swap the rear tube, and realize how the last owner(s) rode ts in thhie big ring up front and the 2 smallest in back and they are super worn. Ugh, I know better but still just went with what i first noticed and didn't look even slightly more closely. overpI aid.
With that depressing thought I go to the LBS since I can't figure out what is going on with the rear shifter and find out:
I feel a bit of regret over the buying but not the bike if that makes sense.
So I got it for $180 because the rear shifter didn't work at all and I thought I could suss it out. So I clean, it do a cable swap, and nothing. I poke at the mechanism, do a bit more cleaning, swap the rear tube, and realize how the last owner(s) rode ts in thhie big ring up front and the 2 smallest in back and they are super worn. Ugh, I know better but still just went with what i first noticed and didn't look even slightly more closely. overpI aid.
With that depressing thought I go to the LBS since I can't figure out what is going on with the rear shifter and find out:
- Both shifters have issues and need to be swapped.
- The crank is part of the Shimano crank (and everything attached) recall. this i hold off on because our independent LBS is becoming a trek shop so I have to wait for the shift. My opinions about the shift are ehhhhhh.
I feel a bit of regret over the buying but not the bike if that makes sense.
#21
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I doubt a LBS would spend the time repairing an old shifter vs just replacing them. What exactly is wrong with them?
If the lever is not engaging the cogs within the lever (common), then the grease used on the pawls inside the shifter needs redoing (bike was left sitting). I've done this a number of times, you have to remove the covers to access the pawls and move them back and forth with a small screwdriver until they start engaging. Then clean up the old grease and re lube them. As the rear is going to already be replaced by the LBS, you may as well do this.
Like this video shows
If the lever is not engaging the cogs within the lever (common), then the grease used on the pawls inside the shifter needs redoing (bike was left sitting). I've done this a number of times, you have to remove the covers to access the pawls and move them back and forth with a small screwdriver until they start engaging. Then clean up the old grease and re lube them. As the rear is going to already be replaced by the LBS, you may as well do this.
Like this video shows
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I have an 820 from early 90's. Save yourself some time and swap out the shifters into some NOS. I found them on Ebay in the past, pretty cheap. I think I paid like 35 for the pair.
#23
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And yes I do a good deal of my own work already and was planning on doing the drivetrain stuff myself.
Live and learn eh?
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However, I usually only work on Deore LX or better.
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Sorry to piggyback onto this thread, but I have a 1992 Trek 850- I’m the original owner, but the bike did sit awhile while I did more roadbiking. I’m looking to get it back into decent riding shape. A shop worked on the shifters for me- they were “frozen” in hardened grease and while they now work, there is still an issue- the front shifter hits all the rings when upshifting, but skips from the large ring to the small ring when downshifting. Is there any hope in fixing these (the shop says no) or do I need to replace the shifters? They are the original LX400 Exage.