Disc Brakes Annoyance
#26
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#27
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#31
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As mentioned earlier, Shimano does make Di2 Ultegra for rim brake equipped bikes. Here are the 11 speed left and right that are compatible with your R7000 stuff or any other 11 speed Shimano road group component.
https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/produ...T-R8050-L.html
https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/produ...T-R8050-R.html
https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/produ...T-R8050-L.html
https://bike.shimano.com/en-US/produ...T-R8050-R.html
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#32
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If Shimano history is a guide, these 11-speed levers will be discontinued in 3, 2, ...
If I'm doing a build, I'd pick the most recent group set as a hedge against obsolescence. Today that means 12-speed, no rim brakes (sadly).
#34
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I edit quotes because it’s absolutely silly to repost entire quotes when they are readily available above. It’s a waste of bandwidth and time consuming, especially when people repost quotes with 20 pictures and detailed descriptions, only to say, “nice bike!”
Your “facts” didn’t disappear because I didn’t quote you fully, I assure you. What "facts" were important to my retort, anyway? That you think the OP's post is a sad story? Not a fact. That you're glad he shared this because it gives us a fresh insight? Not a fact. That in General his post could easily be misinterpreted as a pathetic attempt at trolling? Not a fact. That he has been a member for over 10 years? So? This is the only "fact" you posted, and it really isn't important to what I wrote.
I only responded to the part of your post that was relevant to my retort--where you referenced C&V participants. The other portion of your post was fluff and completely unnecessary to my retort.
If I was reasonably sure my post would immediately follow yours, I wouldn’t re-quote you at all (see below). How upset would you be then? What "facts" would have been excluded?
This is the only forum I participate in (and like a lot of us I participate in many) where the members “insist” that other members quote in full—with the full understanding that the entire original subject quote can easily be re-read above.
But thank you for calling it a "good retort."
Your “facts” didn’t disappear because I didn’t quote you fully, I assure you. What "facts" were important to my retort, anyway? That you think the OP's post is a sad story? Not a fact. That you're glad he shared this because it gives us a fresh insight? Not a fact. That in General his post could easily be misinterpreted as a pathetic attempt at trolling? Not a fact. That he has been a member for over 10 years? So? This is the only "fact" you posted, and it really isn't important to what I wrote.
I only responded to the part of your post that was relevant to my retort--where you referenced C&V participants. The other portion of your post was fluff and completely unnecessary to my retort.
If I was reasonably sure my post would immediately follow yours, I wouldn’t re-quote you at all (see below). How upset would you be then? What "facts" would have been excluded?
This is the only forum I participate in (and like a lot of us I participate in many) where the members “insist” that other members quote in full—with the full understanding that the entire original subject quote can easily be re-read above.
But thank you for calling it a "good retort."
Last edited by smd4; 03-06-24 at 06:37 PM.
#35
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John
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It would be nice if that would be holding true for other outdated equipment and groups. Prices for older equipment regardless of providence is dropping precipitately and there is no indication the future looks like it is going to improve. Older premium bicycle gear is unique because it rarely wears out, does not get disposed of readily and due to its affordability in general, hoarders build up incredible inventories which are eventually dumped onto the market.
Last edited by Atlas Shrugged; 03-06-24 at 07:38 PM.
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Guess it all depends on condition. Bought a mint 25th anniversary 7700 RD a couple years ago for $150. Now they’re pretty much double that. There’s a NOS one “asking” for $850.
Of course, I wouldn’t expect anyone who isn’t into C&V to follow the prices or market very closely.
Of course, I wouldn’t expect anyone who isn’t into C&V to follow the prices or market very closely.
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#38
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A lot of value is based on nostalgia and utility. An item with little utility will have some demand by collectors, except art/display especially with providence, but an item with great utility is where things really take off.
Cars and guitars are pretty high up the food chain of in demand vintage collectibles. Beyond nostalgia, they just continue to work. A 50 year old 911 is probably just as much fun today as it was 50 years ago. Same with old guitars. 50 year old tennis racquets and golf clubs probably not so much since newer equipment is light years better.
John
Cars and guitars are pretty high up the food chain of in demand vintage collectibles. Beyond nostalgia, they just continue to work. A 50 year old 911 is probably just as much fun today as it was 50 years ago. Same with old guitars. 50 year old tennis racquets and golf clubs probably not so much since newer equipment is light years better.
John
Last edited by 70sSanO; 03-06-24 at 07:12 PM.
#39
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I appreciate your response and enjoy our back-and-forth banter. However, I kindly request that you post my full message instead of only selecting certain lines. This particular thread made by a long-time active member, seems to have been created solely to stir up conflict and disagreement regarding an issue that has been excessively debated in the past.
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There's a company from China called Wheeltop who are offering full wireless shifting for both disc and rim brakes. Unfortunately SRAM sent them a patent infringement lawsuit forcing them to used fixed batteries instead of removable ones. Either way, they claim at least 28,000 operations with the fixed battery and can be used from 7 to 13 speed cassettes. The front/rear derailleurs are full wireless and you can choose either mechanical or hydraulic brake options. The few user reviewers I've read sound quite positive.
https://wheeltop.com/products/eds-bicycle-derailleur
https://wheeltop.com/products/eds-bicycle-derailleur
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Guess it all depends on condition. Bought a mint 25th anniversary 7700 RD a couple years ago for $150. Now they’re pretty much double that. There’s a NOS one “asking” for $850.
Of course, I wouldn’t expect anyone who isn’t into C&V to follow the prices or market very closely.
Of course, I wouldn’t expect anyone who isn’t into C&V to follow the prices or market very closely.
eBay is bloated with standard 7700 rear derailleurs starting at $30. These are asking prices not actual sale number. It’s common knowledge that the used market has collapsed especially older and collectibles as demand is diminishing as old timers continue to downsize and age out of the sport.
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What a ridiculous example, a niche product produced in very limited numbers as a special edition sought after by collectors to complete a group and mounted on a wall hanger.
eBay is bloated with standard 7700 rear derailleurs starting at $30. These are asking prices not actual sale number. It’s common knowledge that the used market has collapsed especially older and collectibles as demand is diminishing as old timers continue to downsize and age out of the sport.
eBay is bloated with standard 7700 rear derailleurs starting at $30. These are asking prices not actual sale number. It’s common knowledge that the used market has collapsed especially older and collectibles as demand is diminishing as old timers continue to downsize and age out of the sport.
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I have no idea what the original price of this derailleur was in 1997 but lets say it was $100. The same amount invested in the S&P would be worth $987.00. Do you still think bike components are a good investment? Thinking someone is going to throw a few NOS Ultegra Groups in a drawer as a investment towards a grandchild’s education is hilarious. All this over the love of outdated cycling tech. This never gets old!
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#45
Clark W. Griswold
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Sorry I am just giving a useful instance of why posting the whole thing is helpful. I am not getting involved in y'all's argument just having some fun. Completely unserious totally joking not calling you a troll or anything just having pure unadulterated fun on a fun forum about bikes. I did not add any words they are all ones that you typed aside from the "..." but again I was having some fun. I was recalling a corny old email signature years ago from someone about saving pixels when I skimmed that post about not wanting to post the whole quote.
Getting back on topic if I were to get disc brakes I would need a T25 bit or wrench which is common on a lot of things these days and easy to get for 6 bolt rotors or nothing for center lock generally as that can use my Shimano cassette tool (or in my case Abbey) and I can get a bleed kit pretty cheaply or just let my local shop do it which is probably once every 2-5 years maybe? Beyond that not really much investment. Heck most of my multi tools have a T25 standard. In terms of rotor truing Abbey makes a nice one that is $23 and also opens bottled caped beverages, Park has one that is $20. Feedback has one on sale that is $11 However I probably wouldn't do that task unless I knew what I was doing and a truing stand which is what you need to true your Rim Brake rotors can get quite expensive for something of quality for a lower cost say Feedback one that is $150 and that is way more than buying all of the disc brake tools you don't have and I would say wheel truing is more difficult than truing a disc rotor and more time consuming.
I am not saying I dislike rim brakes I love them my modern road bike is rim brake and 11 speed Di2 and I love it and have loved it for 7 years or so. Most of my fleet is currently rim brake though I do have a few disc brake bikes most of them hydraulic and they really aren't much hassle occasional pad replacement and maybe a bleed once in a while but pretty fuss free and if I do have a wheel issue I can generally still brake fine.
In the end though while you can still get excellent rim brakes most people want something low maintenance and highly reliable and disc brakes these days are generally that or if they do need maintenance they can bring it to their local shop so they don't need to worry either way but especially on the high end road front people like carbon wheels and carbon wheels are better with disc brakes people do ride them with rim brakes but moving the braking surface to metal rather than epoxy/resin and carbon makes more sense.
Getting back on topic if I were to get disc brakes I would need a T25 bit or wrench which is common on a lot of things these days and easy to get for 6 bolt rotors or nothing for center lock generally as that can use my Shimano cassette tool (or in my case Abbey) and I can get a bleed kit pretty cheaply or just let my local shop do it which is probably once every 2-5 years maybe? Beyond that not really much investment. Heck most of my multi tools have a T25 standard. In terms of rotor truing Abbey makes a nice one that is $23 and also opens bottled caped beverages, Park has one that is $20. Feedback has one on sale that is $11 However I probably wouldn't do that task unless I knew what I was doing and a truing stand which is what you need to true your Rim Brake rotors can get quite expensive for something of quality for a lower cost say Feedback one that is $150 and that is way more than buying all of the disc brake tools you don't have and I would say wheel truing is more difficult than truing a disc rotor and more time consuming.
I am not saying I dislike rim brakes I love them my modern road bike is rim brake and 11 speed Di2 and I love it and have loved it for 7 years or so. Most of my fleet is currently rim brake though I do have a few disc brake bikes most of them hydraulic and they really aren't much hassle occasional pad replacement and maybe a bleed once in a while but pretty fuss free and if I do have a wheel issue I can generally still brake fine.
In the end though while you can still get excellent rim brakes most people want something low maintenance and highly reliable and disc brakes these days are generally that or if they do need maintenance they can bring it to their local shop so they don't need to worry either way but especially on the high end road front people like carbon wheels and carbon wheels are better with disc brakes people do ride them with rim brakes but moving the braking surface to metal rather than epoxy/resin and carbon makes more sense.
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#46
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I'm not sure why hydraulic disc brakes would be an issue. Mechanic disc brakes are fine but hydraulics are just so much better.
However on that note I do not see the point in internal cable routing when the cables need to travel through the headset. The whole system makes the headset so much more complicated than it needs be. If the cables are also routed inside the stem and spacers, you'll need a hose removal and rebleed every time you want to adjust stem height. Also there have been instances of catastrophic design flaws where a headset piece has cut a fork steerer. And why has such a system been implemented? A cleaner cockpit. Aesthetics.
There have been arguments made about the aero gains of having no exposed cables but, really? A 20cm length of cable flapping in the wind will have roughly the same effect as a small crease in a jersey.
Luckily I believe the routing through handlebars, stem and spacers isn't mandatory even with headset routed cables. That makes getting a headset routed bike frame at least possible for those who like to mess about their riding position throughout the season.
I don't mind internal routing when it goes in through the frame (downtube for instance). A bit of a hassle when first trying to fish cables through but after they're through there are ways to make the job a non issue.
However on that note I do not see the point in internal cable routing when the cables need to travel through the headset. The whole system makes the headset so much more complicated than it needs be. If the cables are also routed inside the stem and spacers, you'll need a hose removal and rebleed every time you want to adjust stem height. Also there have been instances of catastrophic design flaws where a headset piece has cut a fork steerer. And why has such a system been implemented? A cleaner cockpit. Aesthetics.
There have been arguments made about the aero gains of having no exposed cables but, really? A 20cm length of cable flapping in the wind will have roughly the same effect as a small crease in a jersey.
Luckily I believe the routing through handlebars, stem and spacers isn't mandatory even with headset routed cables. That makes getting a headset routed bike frame at least possible for those who like to mess about their riding position throughout the season.
I don't mind internal routing when it goes in through the frame (downtube for instance). A bit of a hassle when first trying to fish cables through but after they're through there are ways to make the job a non issue.
#47
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I have no idea what the original price of this derailleur was in 1997 but lets say it was $100. The same amount invested in the S&P would be worth $987.00. Do you still think bike components are a good investment? Thinking someone is going to throw a few NOS Ultegra Groups in a drawer as a investment towards a grandchild’s education is hilarious. All this over the love of outdated cycling tech. This never gets old!
Nice straw man.
Besides, using an inflation calculator and your example shows that a new RD-7700 at $100 in 1996 should be only $199 today.
Clearly NOS RD-7700s have beaten inflation.
Last edited by smd4; 03-07-24 at 10:08 AM.
#48
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Sorry I am just giving a useful instance of why posting the whole thing is helpful. I am not getting involved in y'all's argument just having some fun. Completely unserious totally joking not calling you a troll or anything just having pure unadulterated fun on a fun forum about bikes. I did not add any words they are all ones that you typed aside from the "..." but again I was having some fun. I was recalling a corny old email signature years ago from someone about saving pixels when I skimmed that post about not wanting to post the whole quote.
Get it?
If I had quoted him entirely, it would have been a complete waste, as his opinions that the poster was a troll, etc., weren't my concern.
#49
Clark W. Griswold
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I didn't quote AS out of context, as you did above. My comment only applied to what I did quote--nothing more. Just like I didn't need to re-quote the rest of your post, which has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with your point that I did re-quote, and now respond to.
Get it?
If I had quoted him entirely, it would have been a complete waste, as his opinions that the poster was a troll, etc., weren't my concern.
Get it?
If I had quoted him entirely, it would have been a complete waste, as his opinions that the poster was a troll, etc., weren't my concern.
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