indoorcyk

I noticed that I keep catching my right heel on my JohnnyG Pro spinner bike. I have to consciously point my heel outward to prevent it from happening and it’s getting annoying.
it wasn’t an issue until recently. So, I wonder if it’s possible for the crank to move laterally, yet still work otherwise?

PeteHski

Have you tried to move the crank laterally to see if it does have any freeplay?

indoorcyk

I tried moving it by hand and it feels firm.
I’m not sure this is adjustable. Maybe it was like this all along, but it seems strange that there is so little clearance between the crank and the bike body on the right vs the left and it has only recently been an issue. It seems like it could have slowly shifted over time.

PeteHski

It's unlikely to have moved. Maybe a photo would help us to see if there is a potential issue.

caloso

If it's only a few mm, I would just add a pedal washer or two (assuming you have sufficient remaining threading).

CliffordK

That is a fancy bike. Are you using "flat" pedals, or using any kind of foot retention (clipless pedals, toeclips, etc)?

Some brands discourage foot retention due to a flywheel effect.

Some types of clipless pedals have limited float. Others will allow you to adjust cleat position laterally.

Like @caloso suggested, you can also get pedal spacers/extenders to push the pedal out 20mm or so. (or washers for closer). There may also be some variability in pedal design, and some pedals come with multiple spindle lengths.

indoorcyk

I took photos, but m blocked frm posting them until I have 10 posts on this forum.

indoorcyk

It has the standard pedals.

indoorcyk

Are pedal washers standard standard sizes? It looks like there is a gap on the left pedal, but the right pedal is pushed up against the body with the pedal barely clearing the bike.

CliffordK

Ok, I assume your excercycle looks somewhat like this (from internet)





And your photo album:
https://www.bikeforums.net/g/user/531881
https://www.bikeforums.net/g/album/24021880

indoorcyk

Yes.

CliffordK

Ok, you have toeclips, with some rather beat up nylon toe straps.

Where exactly is the heel striking?

The bike seems to have a pretty bulky chaincase, but without having a comparable JohnnyG, nothing looks particularly out of place.
.

The crank arms appear as if they are attached with "square taper", and have a fairly wide Q-Factor like MTB crank arms.

When I was using toe straps on my road bike, I tended to prefer leather. They just weren't as floppy as nylon straps, but it might not make a huge difference. Perhaps they just seemed easier to get the feet onto the pedals.

I haven't used the pedal washers, but I do see them on the web. You can probably safely add 1/8" or 3/16" worth of spacers. Any wider, and you'll need to get the 20mm extenders. Pedal placement will depend a bit on your physique, and what kind of bike you are used to riding. I might consider trying to squeeze narrower road bike crank arms onto the machine to get the feet closer together. The left side would likely be easy to replace, but the right side might interfere with the chainring/spider, and be a hassle to get it to work.

While narrower might seem to interfere with the heel, it may, in fact, help keep the foot more natural.

I really like my clipless shoes and pedals, and put them on everything. I only ride on the road, but the clipless helped keep the feet on the pedals right.

PeteHski

I agree the bike looks okay. It's fairly normal to have minimal crank clearance to the frame. Have you by any chance changed your shoes recently? I would consider moving to clipless pedals so you can control your foot position on the pedal more accurately.

spelger

I agree, if the OP rides this bike a lot then going clipless would be real nice. they needn't be expensive. I am riding ancient SPDs that i paid probably 35 koopa shells about 20 years ago. still doing their job. Shoes i recently replaced used on craig's list for all of $10.

PeteHski

Yep, clipless pedals can actually be very cheap. The low end Time pedals are very good value with lots of float in the cleats. The cheaper end of the Shimano SPD-SL range are a good option too. It's only the high-end pedals that get expensive and functionally they are exactly the same. Just lighter with more durable bearings, which doesn't matter on a trainer.

indoorcyk

If you look at the photo of the left crank, you will see a gap. The clearance of the left side is more than necessary, but the clearance on the right is very minimal.
I wonder it can be moved to the right to remove that gap and if that would shift both pedals so there is more clearance on the right? I would then be able to ride without having to constantly think about pointing my right heel outwards to avoid banging it on the bike.

I don’t understand how clip-less pedals would help.
I’m thinking about buying a new Keiser M3i bike, but this one still works fine otherwise. So, I’d rather get a few more years out of it.

CliffordK

The "gap" you're seeing is between the bottom bracket shell and the bottom bracket spindle. It isn't really made to be adjusted.

You would have that same gap on the right side, but it is largely hidden behind the chainring. Depending on how the crank is constructed, you really don't want a gap between the crank and the chainring.

The pedals are likely centered in the exercycle. But, you have a very bulky chaincase on the right side making it look off center.

That exercycle uses some kind of a cotterless crank. The bottom brackets are fairly universal, and there are options for different lengths of bracket spindles (likely purchasing a new bottom bracket).

It would take a bit of work to get everything disassembled, and get the old bottom bracket out, measured, then purchasing a new one slightly longer (even asymmetric), then reinstalling everything.

You likely will be able to move the crank to the right slightly without it bashing into the chaincase. But, the chainring position will be the limit. It will impact the chain line slightly, but hopefully not be a critical problem.

indoorcyk

OK. So, the most simple solution would be to see if a spacer that fits this bike model is available for the right pedal? Except that I don’t know for sure there is enough thread to accommodate an adequate spacer.
I don’t mind getting new pedals, but only if it is a true solution.
I don’t know how to do bike repairs, so I would have a mobile exercise equipment repair tech come out and fix it. So, I’d like a straightforward solution that they will be able to understand and complete in one visit.

CliffordK

As far as "Clipless Pedals", it is an unfortunate nomenclature that throws back to the "Toe Clips" which are the clips and straps over the pedals (which you have).

Clipless still clip into the pedals, but only at the bottom (thus, without toe clips).

The clipless has a few advantages.

The shoe heels are always narrow as they don't need to do anything other than wrap around the foot.

You can set the cleat placement which will control where your foot is on the pedal. In some cases you can change the pedal spindle length to further adjust the foot placement.

Different pedal/cleats will have different amount of "Float". Some will have zero float, thus your feet are locked in the orientation you put the feet. Others will have a small amount of float, often somewhere between 0° float and 6° float (the amount your foot can twist).

A little float is probably good for the knees as long as you can maintain your desired foot positioning.

indoorcyk

I have 10 posts now.
This is the gap that makes it look like the pedals are shifted to the left to me.

CliffordK

You can try a couple of washers. But, the best solution is probably a "Pedal Extender".

https://www.amazon.com/16-Pedal-Exte..._df_B000QDGJVU

https://www.amazon.com/Extenders-FIP..._df_B09D7MG25D

https://www.amazon.com/PeSandy-Exten..._df_B07ZN265CB

CliffordK

And that is normal.

You will have a similar gap on the other side, but it is hidden from view with the chaincase and the chainring.

If there was a problem such as losing bearings, you would know. The crank would feel crunchy when you turned it, and the whole thing would wobble.

If just the left crank arm was loose, it would wobble, and would be independent from the right crank arm.

indoorcyk

Do you have some examples of suitable pedals?
I may order a set and either try to put them on or have them on hand so a repair tech can swap them for me.
I use regular athletic shoes like running shoes on the bike. So, these pedal would require me to also buy special shoes with cleats?

CliffordK

Yes. You would need both pedals and shoes to go clipless.

You said a "Repair Tech". Are you carrying the whole thing to a bike shop?

For your first pair of shoes, it is often easiest to go into a store to find some to try on. I like going by metric sizes when looking at bike shoes as they are more uniform between brands. So, I usually purchase size-46.

Some of the shoes are cleat type specific.

There is a huge variety of pedals/cleats, whatnot available.

I like "SPD" shoes/cleats because they are walkable and generally durable. But, if you are just using them inside the house, then any type would work.

@PeteHski mentioned "SPD-SL" which is the "road" version of SPD cleats, and is very different from the SPD. A large triangle shape. Usually a plastic cleat. They would also work well. And, several manufacturers make similar, but slightly different pedals/cleats.

Speedplay pedals are designed to maximize float. But, your issue is you want to reduce the inside movement of the foot, so I'd AVOID those round pedals.

There is also a Crankbrothers Egg Beater. I don't know much about those, but could be worth considering.

indoorcyk

OK, so 9/16 is the standard size that’s safe to assume will work on this bike?
As long as the pedals have to come off to put on the spacers, I might as well get new pedals. Are there recommended combo pedals available that work with or without special shoes? Right now, I’m not very interested in clipping in and having to wear bike-specific shoes, but it would be nice to have the option if I change my mind later.
If I get the M3i later, I would be able to swap the pedals over to the new bike.