dynne

Hello everyone, hope you're well and not too busy coming into the Holiday season.

I wanted to ask some advice regarding my Trek 616. I'd like to upgrade the headset and fork, I just don't really understand all the info I've read on vintage-trek and from Sheldon Brown etc.

Does anyone know what my 616 is built for in terms of geometry? I'm unsure about what size fork I would need, in terms of rake, steerer length, etc, especially when factoring in a new headset for my needs.

https://vintage-trek.com/images/trek/Trek81.pdf

The frame details are there, I have the 22.5".

I mostly ride it in the city (Boston), so bumpy roads and traffic are commonplace, but it's mostly flat and I have been riding it as a SS/Fixed right now (GASP - don't worry, I've got all the 600 parts safely stored away).

For a fork, should I do carbon? 531? Something with canti's? I have a sweeping chrome fork from a project bike I could potentially put on that is nice looking. QBP is the cheapest option for me if possible for something new. Used via ebay/forums is fun too.

Also, I adore the old paint job, but it seems to cheap very easily. Anything I can do?

All advice you can give me is greatly appreciated. I'd love to get crackin' on this project when I have time off around Xmas.

Thanks so much, guys.

Ex Pres 

55cm rake, although you could probably get away with less. You'll need to measure your headtube and add the stack height of the headset you wish to use to arrive at the steerer length required for your fork. As far as material - that's up to you. Probably want to stay away from aluminum is the only guidance I'll give.

Canti's front and sidepull rear would be weird IMO.

red sox junkie

I would just leave it alone. Used the fork that came with it unless there is something wrong with it. A carbon fork will drop a little weight (less than a pound) and a lot of expense for IMO no benefit. As far as paint, clean the frame and wax it with automotive wax and it should be fine. My 500 has a very tough paint job that has lasted many years on very harsh roads. What are you trying to acheive with the upgraded fork?

dynne

Ex pres - thanks so much for the easy to understand and speedy advice.

Advice on headsets for threaded stems?

When I ride fixed, I only run a front brake, so a mix of canti and caliper wouldn't be an issue. I've found modern dual-pivot calipers to be quiet impressive in comparison to even higher-end 70's-80's calipers I'm accustomed to. Could calipers be as efficient as cantilevers if I used season-appropriate brake pads?

Advice on headsets for threaded stems? Frame protection?

dynne

Red sox junkie

Improve handling, but perhaps that's simply a headset issue. I'm using a conversion quill from 1-1 1/8" so I can use modern stems, would this potentially be a factor?

Ex Pres 

If this is a goal, then swap your fork to 1" threadless and buy a threadless headset. That way you can cut the fork steerer length at your leisure.
Cane Creek has 1" threadless headsets that you can pick up for ~$30 or less. And I've been happy with mine.

Road Fan

Dynne, if you are intent on replacing your fork, I'd probably buy your old one, if it's the original one and in good condition.

But if it was my bike, I'd leave the frame and fork together.

auchencrow

The '81 Trek 616 is normally a fine riding bike with the OEM fork - if you are having handling issues it may be damaged or have something to do with the aftermarket stem modification.

-And if you want to improve braking the best thing you could do is reassemble the rear brake: Installing a front canti alone will just serve to catapult you.

JohnDThompson 

What's wrong with the present fork and headset? Unless there's a compelling need to replace them, I'd just keep using them.

dynne

Overhauled headset (much easier process than anticipated), changed entire cockpit set-up (reverted to mostly original) and installed a longer seat-post (why didn't someone tell me about "micro-adjust" sooner??). That seems to have brought it back to the beast it once was.

Thanks for help, C&V. My wallet also says thanks.

wrk101

As far as paint, Trek is known for probably the BEST OEM paint in the business. (In my opinion, by far the best). It is much more durable, much less likely to chip, it is really awesome. I pick up a lot of neglected bikes, and I am always happy to pick up a Trek as I have yet to have one with paint issues. This is with dozens of Treks in the last few years.

So is your paint original? It is hard to believe the original stuff would be prone to chipping.

dynne

The paint is original, a lovely "chestnut" color. Looks like this...

https://www.vintage-trek.com/Trek_gallerySE.htm

Where are you getting these Treks? Any for sale? : )

dynne

Also, I checked dupont's site and it seems as if they still make my matching color, but it's a two-coat process and would be prohibitively expensive considering it's still in fairly good shape, mostly serious scratches from where the clamp-on shifters and top-tube cable guides rested.

jstewse

The simple solution to that would be put the shifters and cable stops back on. It would be quite pricey to have your bike repainted with the Imron paint, if I recall it's sprayed on electrostaticaly like a powdercoat. I'm glad to hear you put the threadless stem back on/ overhauled the headset, sometimes it's better to leave well enough alone. especially considering finding a new fork with the proper geometry would probably be a chore. Besides, I think I would cringe at the sight of a classic trek with a carbon fork.

Road Fan

I think finding a new fork with the proper geometry would be IMPOSSIBLE, unless he had it made.

rekmeyata

I'm an odd duck so be prepared to throw my comments out the window. That Trek was a very nice touring bike. Back in those days you could buy a Trek for way less the a comparable bike from any other brand. Thus to get a bike like the 616 you would have easily spent more then double the price of the Trek.

Now here's my odd duck advice. Keep it bone stock, do not convert to a fixie or replace parts trying to modernize it. It's a classic why butcher it? I have bikes with modern dual pivot brakes and older bikes with single pivot brakes and they all will stop a bike in the same amount of distance. The pro with the dual pivots is that their smooth and faster acting, but the con is their more difficult to modulate. I actually prefer the older single pivots due to being able to modulate it better.

27 x 1 1/4 inch tires are still available with some rather decent ones available, Schwalbe makes and excellent touring tire for that size, and if you want a lighter road tire Conti makes the Gatorskin in that size as well.

I would leave the fork and headset stock as well. The fork is a heavy duty fork designed for touring with heavy loads, as is the headset.

Trek paint jobs were indeed very good paint jobs. All you need to do is wash the bike; I use the Finish Line Bike wash because it has rust inhibitors built in. Then wax the bike with Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax, it's the best wax on the market, I use it on all my classic cars and on my bikes. If the paint has scratches in it that don't go away after using NXT then get some Meguiar's ScratchX and use it, then reapply the NXT. Obviously any serious scratches should be touched up with either Testors model paint or fingernail polish, I find Testors to be a bit more durable. I always first go to an auto parts store and try to find one of those little bottle of touch up paint because that stuff is more durable then Testors but some bicycles have colors your not going to find in the auto parts place.

Replacement parts are widely available on E-Bay by the way, so there's no need to change stuff for fear of parts not being ready when needed.