What have you been wrenching on lately?
#4976
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This is currently undergoing a little work, but I can't wait to get a little road time with it, now that I have a seatpost and stem setup that I'm happy with. I'll post more pics when it's "done" but I can't get over how lightweight this is. This is running a 2x10 105 setup, and has me excited!!!
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#4978
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Moveable. The tall angled piece is for checking radial true, though I'm not sure it's actually necessary- seems like the smaller block would be sufficient... But I had the wood and it looks kinda cool, so I made it anyway (this is my first set of wheels and I haven't digested the section in the Musson book on radial truing, so maybe this part is necessary.....). I was on the verge of buying a (cheapish...) stand when I came across the book and this design. I knew I could scrounge up what I needed to make it from my shed and I think it looks kinda cool, so out came the tools....
#4979
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An early 70s Schwinn Collegiate, that a good friends wife has become quite fond of. Hopefully, she is still as fond when they get the parts bill, for new wheels, brakes, bars, shifter, and saddle.
Tim
Tim
#4980
Senior Member
Frame I'm building up for a friend
French frame I'm building up for a friend. I thought that taking it down to the frame might give me insight to the maker but not yet. I guess I'll start stripping paint next!
Stripped everything to find that it's completely unbranded which is exciting to have something this cool!
Last edited by CFDJ; 03-28-22 at 09:27 AM.
#4981
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*Sheldon Brown's wheel building page was also helpful, but I found the Musson book to be a little clearer, to my mind at least.
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#4982
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Waiting on tires and a freewheel so I can complete (and test-ride), but my first wheelset build it complete! The Musson book (and stand design) were very helpful*. The front wheel went very well, the rear was quite a bit trickier and more frustrating. Part of it was getting the dishing right (I laced and unlaced the wheel a couple times thinking I'd got the spokes on the wrong sides...), but the worst was no amount of tinkering could eliminate a flat spot around the seam on the rim. Radial true is off by about 1 mm here, maybe a fraction more, but tensions are pretty well equalized so I'm hoping it won't be noticeable. Looking forward to getting it on the road soon.
*Sheldon Brown's wheel building page was also helpful, but I found the Musson book to be a little clearer, to my mind at least.
*Sheldon Brown's wheel building page was also helpful, but I found the Musson book to be a little clearer, to my mind at least.
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#4983
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Very nice job on the stand. It looks nice enough I think one could get by with leaving it out on the coffee table for a day or three while working on a project with minimum complaints from the better half.
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#4984
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When I was a little kid in the early 70s we lived for a time near the original Creative Playthings in NJ (apparently now they pretty much just make swing-sets, but back then they made all sorts of stuff). We'd visit now and then and my folks bought us the occasional small toy and the general aesthetic (simple, solid wood or Baltic Birch ply) got imprinted in my brain. A lot of reviews of the more affordable truing stands weren't so great, and the DIY versions made of angle-iron, etc. didn't really appeal. When I saw this design it was entirely a 'language' I understood! It actually ended up being more like, oh, 4 or 5 days that it sat out on the table while I was working on the wheels! I actually wish I had a place somewhere I could keep it out on display with a wheel in it!
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#4985
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I am going to be working on the removal of a Suntour VX bottom bracket. Had an idea that my LBS could have the tool, and I was assured that they could remove "any bottom bracket" when I called them. When I took the frame to them on Saturday, they immediately began to work on it and were stymied.
Tried an adjustable pin spanner, and that didn't work. I've been looking at older threads dealing with the same issue and decided to give a Park OBW-3 a try. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Tried an adjustable pin spanner, and that didn't work. I've been looking at older threads dealing with the same issue and decided to give a Park OBW-3 a try. I'll let you know how it turns out.
I think it was a tool failure, and I am pretty sure Park will replace it on warranty. So far this is the most expensive free bike I have ever owned.
#4986
Senior Member
Overhauling an 86 Tempo for a friend. Did BB, hub bearings, headset, freewheel. Not impressed with Maillard hubs, but they spin smoothly. They use a keyed washer on the axles, which is not my preference but they worked ok. Some of the nipples on the Rigida rim spokes look a bit crusty. Tires are hard as rocks.
#4987
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Quoting myself here: I got the Park OBW-3 today and sheared off one of the tabs instantly. I had it prepared with a stack of washers to keep the tool pressed into the slots of the VX, but it was a major fail.
I think it was a tool failure, and I am pretty sure Park will replace it on warranty. So far this is the most expensive free bike I have ever owned.
I think it was a tool failure, and I am pretty sure Park will replace it on warranty. So far this is the most expensive free bike I have ever owned.
I'm not sure how close you are to my location but I could lend you the tools you need to remove the cups. Give me a call and we can try to find a solution for you. Smiles, MH 812-336-3283
#4988
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Overhauling an 86 Tempo for a friend. Did BB, hub bearings, headset, freewheel. Not impressed with Maillard hubs, but they spin smoothly. They use a keyed washer on the axles, which is not my preference but they worked ok. Some of the nipples on the Rigida rim spokes look a bit crusty. Tires are hard as rocks.
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#4989
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#4990
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I recently got one step closer to completing a long term project... Tomorrow I need to cobble together a functional washer.
obligatory bad photo
obligatory bad photo
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#4991
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Quoting myself here: I got the Park OBW-3 today and sheared off one of the tabs instantly. I had it prepared with a stack of washers to keep the tool pressed into the slots of the VX, but it was a major fail.
I think it was a tool failure, and I am pretty sure Park will replace it on warranty. So far this is the most expensive free bike I have ever owned.
I think it was a tool failure, and I am pretty sure Park will replace it on warranty. So far this is the most expensive free bike I have ever owned.
Both sides have (or should have lockrings).
#4992
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dweenk,
After some thought and looking around the tool box I think I might have some help for you. Pics:
Var pin spanner. My first thoughts were to lock the pins down with washers and spindle bolts. But they may slip on the square ends of the BB cups.
The other tool that will remove a cup from either side. Made out of 1/2" drive sockets and race car lug and lug nuts.
The way the tool fits in a cup to remove it from a BB. It is a junk yard tool but it does the work, you may need to find a washer for the inside of the cup to get a tight fit.
After checking out pics of the BB, I dug these out of the tool box, and they are likely what you need for one side of the BB. My junk yard tool will remove the other cup if this one doesn't work.
Smiles, MH
After some thought and looking around the tool box I think I might have some help for you. Pics:
Var pin spanner. My first thoughts were to lock the pins down with washers and spindle bolts. But they may slip on the square ends of the BB cups.
The other tool that will remove a cup from either side. Made out of 1/2" drive sockets and race car lug and lug nuts.
The way the tool fits in a cup to remove it from a BB. It is a junk yard tool but it does the work, you may need to find a washer for the inside of the cup to get a tight fit.
After checking out pics of the BB, I dug these out of the tool box, and they are likely what you need for one side of the BB. My junk yard tool will remove the other cup if this one doesn't work.
Smiles, MH
#4993
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The last photo is the Suntour tool for the BB - I think it is a TA-230 tool. I will send a PM.
#4994
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#4995
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+1 ! Reminds me a bit of the Ingrid MTB derailleur that's available in 11 and 12-speed.
I have been doing some necessary wrenching over here.
Patched the holes in the pair of Schwalbe Aerothan tubes I used last summer while touring on some fairly gnarly roads. They held up really well over rough terrain... but glass was too much for them. Unfortunately it was unclear at the time how to best patch these and the suggested Schwalbe patches were never available. Luckily the Park Tool GP-2 were recommended by now. These tubes are going back into my spare tube pocket. Or perhaps I will swap out the butyl tubes that are in the Graveller for these again. They were really comfortable!
Other than that, removed a broken crank bolt with a sharp drill bit and a screwdriver, good thing I greased that bolt. And did some milling on the bar extenders I apparently need on these Velo Orange Porteur bars.
I have been doing some necessary wrenching over here.
Patched the holes in the pair of Schwalbe Aerothan tubes I used last summer while touring on some fairly gnarly roads. They held up really well over rough terrain... but glass was too much for them. Unfortunately it was unclear at the time how to best patch these and the suggested Schwalbe patches were never available. Luckily the Park Tool GP-2 were recommended by now. These tubes are going back into my spare tube pocket. Or perhaps I will swap out the butyl tubes that are in the Graveller for these again. They were really comfortable!
Other than that, removed a broken crank bolt with a sharp drill bit and a screwdriver, good thing I greased that bolt. And did some milling on the bar extenders I apparently need on these Velo Orange Porteur bars.
#4996
Wheelman
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New boots for my Holdsworth Avanti: Mavic MA2 rims + Shimano RX100 hubs (8 speed) + DT spokes + SRAM 11-32 cassette fitted with Panaracer Pasela 28mm tyres
Not sure when I'm going to use 11x52 though.
Rear hub respaced from 130 to 127
I've only done 0.5 miles so far to check the wheels don't collapse (I knitted them myself), but I was pleasantly surprised by the tyes - they're almost silent.
My other rims have Tufo S33 Pro tubulars which make a lot of road noise.
The only remaining issue is my SunTour VX GT won't span 8 gears, apparently it might be possible to file down the L screw stop. But I've got a Cyclone II GT in the post to play with too.
Not sure when I'm going to use 11x52 though.
Rear hub respaced from 130 to 127
I've only done 0.5 miles so far to check the wheels don't collapse (I knitted them myself), but I was pleasantly surprised by the tyes - they're almost silent.
My other rims have Tufo S33 Pro tubulars which make a lot of road noise.
The only remaining issue is my SunTour VX GT won't span 8 gears, apparently it might be possible to file down the L screw stop. But I've got a Cyclone II GT in the post to play with too.
#4997
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New boots for my Holdsworth Avanti: Mavic MA2 rims + Shimano RX100 hubs (8 speed) + DT spokes + SRAM 11-32 cassette fitted with Panaracer Pasela 28mm tyres
Not sure when I'm going to use 11x52 though.
Rear hub respaced from 130 to 127
The only remaining issue is my SunTour VX GT won't span 8 gears, apparently it might be possible to file down the L screw stop. But I've got a Cyclone II GT in the post to play with too.
Not sure when I'm going to use 11x52 though.
Rear hub respaced from 130 to 127
The only remaining issue is my SunTour VX GT won't span 8 gears, apparently it might be possible to file down the L screw stop. But I've got a Cyclone II GT in the post to play with too.
#4998
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The Trek 970 gets some attention. New wheels Mavic MA-2 on Mavic, and some new pedals, along with my torn Concor saddle of the day. Gray housing will be in order.
The rear derailleur is not right, it's not giving proper wrap. I think someone cleaned serviced and reassembled incorrect.
The brakes have cane creek hoods, yuck. Salsa bar wrap is in good shape but not a great install
The rear derailleur is not right, it's not giving proper wrap. I think someone cleaned serviced and reassembled incorrect.
The brakes have cane creek hoods, yuck. Salsa bar wrap is in good shape but not a great install
#4999
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Cheers I'll put Deore on the list, I'm trying (ish) to keep period and the Cyclone M-II GT is 1981 (Yep I know MA2s are 1986 and RX100 is 1991).
Deore XT M737 is 1994.
In this thread https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...-cog-size.html
there's a comment from Steelbikeguy about adjusting a Cyclone GT to handle 8 speed. And there was one on Ebay for £20.
Deore XT M737 is 1994.
In this thread https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...-cog-size.html
there's a comment from Steelbikeguy about adjusting a Cyclone GT to handle 8 speed. And there was one on Ebay for £20.
#5000
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Cheers I'll put Deore on the list, I'm trying (ish) to keep period and the Cyclone M-II GT is 1981 (Yep I know MA2s are 1986 and RX100 is 1991).
Deore XT M737 is 1994.
In this thread https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...-cog-size.html
there's a comment from Steelbikeguy about adjusting a Cyclone GT to handle 8 speed. And there was one on Ebay for £20.
Deore XT M737 is 1994.
In this thread https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...-cog-size.html
there's a comment from Steelbikeguy about adjusting a Cyclone GT to handle 8 speed. And there was one on Ebay for £20.