What makes a bike a "climbing" bike?
#1
Curmudgeon
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Triangle NC
Posts: 339
Bikes: Specialized Diverge Comp
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 161 Post(s)
Liked 32 Times
in
28 Posts
What makes a bike a "climbing" bike?
The new TREK SL6 PRO has a drive train of 52/36 chain rings and rear cassette with max 30T gear. That is a 1.2 ratio. They market it as "This upgrade makes it a worthy choice for any ride, from sprints on your local roads to pro stage races to hill climbing competitions." That just seems like not as low a ratio by today's standards for climbing. Maybe 1.2 is well suited for younger, lighter weight riders but is seems underwhelming to me. I'm currently on a bike with a 48/32 chain rings and cassette with 34T for a .94 ratio.
What are typical gear ratios for climbing these days?
What are typical gear ratios for climbing these days?
#2
On Your Left
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
Posts: 8,373
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3004 Post(s)
Liked 2,434 Times
in
1,187 Posts
I have a Emonda SLR with a compact crank (50/34) and a 11-28 cassette. While i've not ridden the Aps but what I have ridden i've not had to walk up yet.
Likes For GlennR:
#3
Banned
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Mississauga/Toronto, Ontario canada
Posts: 8,721
Bikes: I have 3 singlespeed/fixed gear bikes
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4227 Post(s)
Liked 2,489 Times
in
1,286 Posts
The rider is what makes the bike a climbing bike, it's all about the rider.
Likes For wolfchild:
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 39,379
Mentioned: 211 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18472 Post(s)
Liked 15,738 Times
in
7,400 Posts
Likes For indyfabz:
#5
Senior Member
The new TREK SL6 PRO has a drive train of 52/36 chain rings and rear cassette with max 30T gear. That is a 1.2 ratio. They market it as "This upgrade makes it a worthy choice for any ride, from sprints on your local roads to pro stage races to hill climbing competitions." That just seems like not as low a ratio by today's standards for climbing. Maybe 1.2 is well suited for younger, lighter weight riders but is seems underwhelming to me. I'm currently on a bike with a 48/32 chain rings and cassette with 34T for a .94 ratio.
What are typical gear ratios for climbing these days?
What are typical gear ratios for climbing these days?
As far as what's typical, who cares? Use whatever gears you have use for. Different riders in different terrain have vastly different needs.
Likes For thehammerdog:
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,984
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7058 Post(s)
Liked 11,111 Times
in
4,745 Posts
This. I have friends who use SS bikes for gravel races that have over 100' of climbing per mile average, with grades over 20%. And they clear the climbs, even though I sometimes get off and push my 11sp bike with its 31-34 low gear.
Likes For Koyote:
#8
Full Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 425
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 167 Post(s)
Liked 291 Times
in
163 Posts
My hill climb PR's, and by that I mean long, steep gradient climbs, are all from riding my 5.8kg Wilier, a bike with aero wheels and forks but otherwise optimised only for weight reduction. It accelerates very quickly albeit not a great bike for powerful sprints but great for climbing; super stiff, ultra responsive.
It is a very different ride with a night and day feel compared to my heavier aero bike with which I definitely sprint and TT better on; Strava times prove this. While obviously the engine is the single most important aspect of cycling, it is false to claim that the bike itself makes no difference. Like most, I am demonstrably faster on a lighter bike than a heavier, aero bike on steep, long climbs local to me - circa 6 - 20+%, 8 - 24km. Same engine, different bikes, each optimised for different goals. The time differences aren't big, they are small, sometimes down to a second or two, sometimes nearly a minute. Enough to make a difference if you chase such fine margins.
I have a compact 50/34 on both, as is my preference nowadays.
It is a very different ride with a night and day feel compared to my heavier aero bike with which I definitely sprint and TT better on; Strava times prove this. While obviously the engine is the single most important aspect of cycling, it is false to claim that the bike itself makes no difference. Like most, I am demonstrably faster on a lighter bike than a heavier, aero bike on steep, long climbs local to me - circa 6 - 20+%, 8 - 24km. Same engine, different bikes, each optimised for different goals. The time differences aren't big, they are small, sometimes down to a second or two, sometimes nearly a minute. Enough to make a difference if you chase such fine margins.
I have a compact 50/34 on both, as is my preference nowadays.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 4,076
Bikes: Velo Orange Piolet
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2228 Post(s)
Liked 2,011 Times
in
972 Posts
I like this story. He looked at that year's upcoming hill climb circuit, looked at Strava data of those routes, and determined he could be competative with a fixie. Built a custom fixie for that specific set of hill climb races.
The moral is, optimal gearing depends on the course.
The moral is, optimal gearing depends on the course.
#10
Senior Member
I don't like the 50/34 compact crank for climbing. The 46/30 sub compact crank isn't much better, and I run a 10-42 cassette. The 30T front chain ring paired with the 42T cassette low gear will enable most hill climbs even with luggage, but transitioning from the small chain ring to the large chain ring, downshifting the cassette, is a bit problematic when going uphill. I have bikes with 1x11, 30T or 32T chain ring and 11-46 cassette or more recently, 9-46 cassette. 1x11 or 1x12 and a big cassette is what you need, IMHO.
If you visit flatland, bring a 42T chain ring and a longer chain.
If you visit flatland, bring a 42T chain ring and a longer chain.
Likes For DeadGrandpa:
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Hacienda Hgts
Posts: 2,117
Bikes: 1999 Schwinn Peloton Ultegra 10, Kestrel RT-1000 Ultegra, Trek Marlin 6 Deore 29'er
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 827 Post(s)
Liked 1,967 Times
in
948 Posts
Fresh legs always make my bikes better climbers.
Likes For CAT7RDR:
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,984
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7058 Post(s)
Liked 11,111 Times
in
4,745 Posts
All you people who are writing about gearing are ignoring a crucial element: gradient.
I used to do some big climbing events in Colorado, where I rode them quite well with 53-39 in front and 12-25 in back. Out there, the grades tend to be lower and the climbs longer, so taller gears work fine.
Now I live in western Pennsylvania, where the climbs are shorter but very very steep - I’ve climbed a hill that has a max grade of 37%. Lower gears are essential.
I used to do some big climbing events in Colorado, where I rode them quite well with 53-39 in front and 12-25 in back. Out there, the grades tend to be lower and the climbs longer, so taller gears work fine.
Now I live in western Pennsylvania, where the climbs are shorter but very very steep - I’ve climbed a hill that has a max grade of 37%. Lower gears are essential.
#13
Cheerfully low end
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,979
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 646 Post(s)
Liked 1,045 Times
in
668 Posts
All you people who are writing about gearing are ignoring a crucial element: gradient.
I used to do some big climbing events in Colorado, where I rode them quite well with 53-39 in front and 12-25 in back. Out there, the grades tend to be lower and the climbs longer, so taller gears work fine.
Now I live in western Pennsylvania, where the climbs are shorter but very very steep - I’ve climbed a hill that has a max grade of 37%. Lower gears are essential.
I used to do some big climbing events in Colorado, where I rode them quite well with 53-39 in front and 12-25 in back. Out there, the grades tend to be lower and the climbs longer, so taller gears work fine.
Now I live in western Pennsylvania, where the climbs are shorter but very very steep - I’ve climbed a hill that has a max grade of 37%. Lower gears are essential.
My favorites are the nice steady grades at 5-6%. Those I can just attack and finish off at decent speed and not need much recovery. But yeah the grade matters!
Otto
Likes For ofajen:
#14
With a mighty wind
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,623
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1110 Post(s)
Liked 904 Times
in
507 Posts
In my mid 20s I climbed fast. Won a couple hill climbs, did well at a lot of steep races. My bike was 53/39 and 11-23 most of the time. I had a "climbing" cog at 12-25 I'd occasionally run, like if it was crazy steep. I borrowed a 12-27 that everyone was talking about and hated it. Too low.
Fast forward 15 years. I have gained one pound I think. But boy have I lost some muscle and lungs. My road bike is 50/34 and 12-30. It's very low and excellent climbing. I don't think I'd want to go lower for a road bike.
My gravel is 40x42 at the lowest but when you factor in much bigger tires, it's only a few gear inches less than the road bike. I'd love to try 36x42 with a 10 tooth high cog. It's very cost prohibitive on my build to do that though.
My vintage Spectrum has 53/42 and 13-24 6 speed. I'm not sure it was ever considered a climber, but I use every gear on every ride. That's pretty cool.
I have a local monster, 3500' in 8 miles. 3000 in the first 5. I've been up it with a mountain bike at 20 GI, a gravel at 26GI, and road at 30GI. The speed is approximately 8 minutes faster with each bike. Probably due to the weight, 18, 22, and 26 lbs, not the gearing.
Fast forward 15 years. I have gained one pound I think. But boy have I lost some muscle and lungs. My road bike is 50/34 and 12-30. It's very low and excellent climbing. I don't think I'd want to go lower for a road bike.
My gravel is 40x42 at the lowest but when you factor in much bigger tires, it's only a few gear inches less than the road bike. I'd love to try 36x42 with a 10 tooth high cog. It's very cost prohibitive on my build to do that though.
My vintage Spectrum has 53/42 and 13-24 6 speed. I'm not sure it was ever considered a climber, but I use every gear on every ride. That's pretty cool.
I have a local monster, 3500' in 8 miles. 3000 in the first 5. I've been up it with a mountain bike at 20 GI, a gravel at 26GI, and road at 30GI. The speed is approximately 8 minutes faster with each bike. Probably due to the weight, 18, 22, and 26 lbs, not the gearing.
Likes For rosefarts:
Likes For bruce19:
#16
Cheerfully low end
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,979
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 646 Post(s)
Liked 1,045 Times
in
668 Posts
Uphill this term dominates, so extra weight on the bike makes a difference proportional to the increase in total mass of cycle and rider.
So in my case with roughly 200 pounds of cycle and rider, every pound is about a 0.5% difference.
I guess I would add, though that if you are climbing at 15 mph, aero resistance might still matter at some comparable level of variation so it may not be fully negligible. I’ve never done any calculation on that sort of thing.
Otto
#17
Banned
When I was younger I had a bike with a 52-36 crank I used on hilly countryside rides...
Then when taking self supported tours I put a triple crank on ..
Then when taking self supported tours I put a triple crank on ..
#18
Zip tie Karen
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Posts: 7,004
Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1465 Post(s)
Liked 1,542 Times
in
806 Posts
Now, for any particular rider, there will be certain bikes that climb faster. What are the factors? Weight and fit. Tires. Wheels. Gearing would be low on the list.
Likes For REDMASTA:
#20
Full Member
Join Date: May 2020
Posts: 425
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 167 Post(s)
Liked 291 Times
in
163 Posts
^this is really it. No bike will make you a better climber. Only you can make yourself a better climber. It's hard work. Lose every ounce that you don't need on your body.
Now, for any particular rider, there will be certain bikes that climb faster. What are the factors? Weight and fit. Tires. Wheels. Gearing would be low on the list.
Now, for any particular rider, there will be certain bikes that climb faster. What are the factors? Weight and fit. Tires. Wheels. Gearing would be low on the list.
It stands to reason that the stronger and fitter you are, the better/faster you will be - this applies to pretty much anything. The discussion is about the bikes themselves, not human engine fitness/strength/diet programmes. The human engine is not the subject here - we have to take it as read that the engine is the same engine but that the bikes are different and if one is a better climber or not than another.
The answer is that specific bikes can make you a better climber in terms of time against the clock. A lighter, more aero bike ridden by the same person will result in a faster time than if that same person rode a heavier, less aero machine - assuming same gearing too, to suit the ability of the human engine. Ergo, the former is a better climbing bike. Naturally, the time gains will vary too according to engine ability and this also equates to how much of a benefit the climbing bike can offer.
Likes For AlgarveCycling:
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Brighton, Michigan
Posts: 663
Bikes: Optima Baron LR, '14 Nishiki Maricopa,'87 Trek 330 Elance, '89 Miyata 1400, '85 Peugeot PGN10, '04 Fuji Ace, '06 Giant Rincon, '95 Giant Allegre, '83 Trek 620, '86 Schwinn High Sierra
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 225 Post(s)
Liked 164 Times
in
108 Posts
Earlier this year, I took a trip to Ohioplye and mapped a loop to Salisbury with a dip into Maryland using local roads.
I wont lie. It was the hardest 89 miles of my life. 10K+ft of climbing. I thought my 18bs 34tx28t bike would handle the hills. For the first couple climbs, to include Sugarloaf Rd, my legs and gearing worked fine. But then it was hill after hill, after hill, after hill, after......
After the climb south of Salisbury and the start of my climb into Grantsville, I had become completely demoralized.
I think I would have had a much easier time with my triple crankset aluminum bike running a 30t chainring and a 32t cassette.
I wont lie. It was the hardest 89 miles of my life. 10K+ft of climbing. I thought my 18bs 34tx28t bike would handle the hills. For the first couple climbs, to include Sugarloaf Rd, my legs and gearing worked fine. But then it was hill after hill, after hill, after hill, after......
After the climb south of Salisbury and the start of my climb into Grantsville, I had become completely demoralized.
I think I would have had a much easier time with my triple crankset aluminum bike running a 30t chainring and a 32t cassette.
Likes For friday1970:
#22
Curmudgeon
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Triangle NC
Posts: 339
Bikes: Specialized Diverge Comp
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 161 Post(s)
Liked 32 Times
in
28 Posts
It stands to reason that the stronger and fitter you are, the better/faster you will be - this applies to pretty much anything. The discussion is about the bikes themselves, not human engine fitness/strength/diet programmes. The human engine is not the subject here - we have to take it as read that the engine is the same engine but that the bikes are different and if one is a better climber or not than another.
The answer is that specific bikes can make you a better climber in terms of time against the clock. A lighter, more aero bike ridden by the same person will result in a faster time than if that same person rode a heavier, less aero machine - assuming same gearing too, to suit the ability of the human engine. Ergo, the former is a better climbing bike. Naturally, the time gains will vary too according to engine ability and this also equates to how much of a benefit the climbing bike can offer.
The answer is that specific bikes can make you a better climber in terms of time against the clock. A lighter, more aero bike ridden by the same person will result in a faster time than if that same person rode a heavier, less aero machine - assuming same gearing too, to suit the ability of the human engine. Ergo, the former is a better climbing bike. Naturally, the time gains will vary too according to engine ability and this also equates to how much of a benefit the climbing bike can offer.
#23
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 13,691
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4425 Post(s)
Liked 4,071 Times
in
2,714 Posts
Does it go up a hill? Climbing bike.
On a more serious note, it tends to be a bike that is lighter weight and has maybe easier gears for getting up hills. Less about aerodynamic gains and more about weight.
For the British hill climbing stuff it tends to be as light as possible and fit within the rules. Some people eschew bar tape and cut down bars and things like that to make it as light as possible as they don't need to follow UCI ruling. I have heard of people using track tubulars which are super light and not puncture resistant for that. For non-fixed bikes I believe you need two brakes and for fixed bikes you only need one with the rear wheel acting as a "brake"
Here is some info on one BHC bike:
https://www.bikeradar.com/features/p...ll-climb-bike/
On a more serious note, it tends to be a bike that is lighter weight and has maybe easier gears for getting up hills. Less about aerodynamic gains and more about weight.
For the British hill climbing stuff it tends to be as light as possible and fit within the rules. Some people eschew bar tape and cut down bars and things like that to make it as light as possible as they don't need to follow UCI ruling. I have heard of people using track tubulars which are super light and not puncture resistant for that. For non-fixed bikes I believe you need two brakes and for fixed bikes you only need one with the rear wheel acting as a "brake"
Here is some info on one BHC bike:
https://www.bikeradar.com/features/p...ll-climb-bike/
Likes For veganbikes:
#24
Senior Member
All you people who are writing about gearing are ignoring a crucial element: gradient.
I used to do some big climbing events in Colorado, where I rode them quite well with 53-39 in front and 12-25 in back. Out there, the grades tend to be lower and the climbs longer, so taller gears work fine.
Now I live in western Pennsylvania, where the climbs are shorter but very very steep - I’ve climbed a hill that has a max grade of 37%. Lower gears are essential.
I used to do some big climbing events in Colorado, where I rode them quite well with 53-39 in front and 12-25 in back. Out there, the grades tend to be lower and the climbs longer, so taller gears work fine.
Now I live in western Pennsylvania, where the climbs are shorter but very very steep - I’ve climbed a hill that has a max grade of 37%. Lower gears are essential.
Grew up there. Lived on steep brick road that cars would spin on in the rain. I had a 46/14 single speed and you just got out of the saddle a lot. That was MANY years ago.
Last edited by u235; 07-17-20 at 08:15 PM.
#25
Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Milwaukee
Posts: 32
Bikes: Orbea Onyx, Surly Disc Trucker, Trek 850
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times
in
11 Posts
As in everything, hill climbing is very personal. You have to fit the bike/gearing to the rider and the hill. There are physiologically gifted climbers. They will have a different set up than a roulleur. There are different hills. That will help decide your gearing. The main constant will probably always be weight.
Likes For Slasharoo: