ticyclist

katsup

100mm front and 142mm rear are the measurements we see, but the fact that it says QR instead of TA is concerning. Rear clearly says thru axle so it's probably thru axle front also.

You have any photos? Are these are the stock wheels from your bike? Which bike do you have?

stan01

Really stupid question...but why do you want to upgrade your hubs?? The best upgrade to any bike are the wheels. The cost to upgrade the hubs & then have them rebuilt doesn't make sense. It makes more sense to upgrade the entire wheelset for something that is lighter, rides smoother & perhaps more aero. Are you a heavier rider?? Because 32 hole hubs are overkill for most. Most modern rims now have an internal rim width in the range of 23 to 25mm that work better with wider tires. Are you happy with your current rims?

Buying another set of wheels gives you more options. To improve overall on what you have already & if something happens/breakdowns, you won't have any down time because you now have a spare.

indyfabz

That description gave me a headache.

wolfchild

Why do you want to upgrade your hubs ?. What is wrong with the hubs that you have now ?....Upgrading your hubs isn't going to make you faster.

mstateglfr 

Why does it matter why the OP wants to change their hubs?
Maybe the current hubs broke. Maybe the current hubs aren't the color the OP wants. Maybe the OP wants to try building some wheels. Maybe the OP likes the CK brand and thinks they are cool for having CK components.

ticyclist

thanks for chiming in. To answer your question:

it's a Ti "gravel bike" from Bikesdirect. Bought it 5 years ago and put around 120 miles a week, of NYC street riding, on it with no problems.

I have attached 9 photos, hope it help!

pretty sure both wheels have through axle. Yes stock wheels. I'll put all the specs below if that helps.

>> Frame SuperRoad Disc Brake 700C Butted / Multi-shaped Advanced Heat Treated 3/2.5 Titanium, 2xH2O mounts, Wide Tires Fit, 68mm threaded BB Shell, Headtube TITANIUM UPPER 1-1/8"/LOWER 1.5" TAPER (46x42/55x52.1mm) L: 50/53/55/58/61CM=125/145/160/180/200mm, DROPOUTS(DO) TITANIUM VERTICAL W/REPLACEABLE HANGER, W/POST DISC MOUNT . O.L.N:135MM (142MM THRU-AXLE Equipped) Rear rack brazeons.

>> Fork CARBON GRAVELFork ( UD WEAVE ) BLADE 700C, Steerer: CARBON 1-1/8" to 1.5" Taper ( I.D.:23.6) CROWN: 57mm, BLADE: CARBON STRAIGHT ( 25.7x56.9mm ) W/FLAT DISC MOUNT FOR 140/160 ROTOR .W/52mm OFFSET .W/FORGED DROPOUTS, M12xP1.5 FOR SHIMANO SM-AX720-100x12mm AXLE, Customers report Fork Fits most tires up to 700x40c (29x1.6in)

>> Crankset SHIMANO R8000, ULTEGRA 11-SP, HOLLOWTECH 2, 50-34T

>> Crank 170/172.5/175mm for 50-53/55/58-61CM

>> Bottom Bracket SHIMANO outboard sealed bearings (68mm)

>> Pedals WELLGO ALLOY SIL BODY/ALLOY SIL CAGE W/9/16" BORON-AXLE, W/BLK TOE CLIP, BLK STRAP

>> Front Derailleur SHIMANO FD-R8000, ULTEGRA, FOR 11-SPEED, DOWN-SWING, 31.8MM BAND

>> Rear Derailleur SHIMANO RD-R8000, ULTEGRA, GS 11-SPEED, TOP NORMAL SHADOW DESIGN, DIRECT ATTACHMENT, COMPATIBLE WITH LOW GEAR 28-34T FOR DOUBLE

>> Shifters SHIMANO DISC-BRAKE SHIFT LEVER SET/ ULTEGRA R8000 Hydraulic

>> Cassette/Freewheel SHIMANO CASSETTE, CS-HG800-11, 11-SPEED, 11-13-15-17-19-21-23-25-27-30-34T

>> Chain SHIMANO BICYCLE CHAIN, CN-HG701-11, FOR 11-SPEED

>> Hubs F/HUB JTECH DISC FRONT HUB, 2 Sealed Bearings, POLISH ANO BLK, W/TYPE 5-12mm for 12mm through QR, 14Gx32H,OL:100mm (NOTE: check for hub end caps which may stick to the plastic hub protectors/ do not discard)

>> F.HUB THRUAxle w/QR JTECH FRONT 12mm ANODIZED BLACK, L:M12xP1.5x121mm

>> R/HUB JTECH SHIMANO 11S COMPATIBLE, ALLOY DISC REAR HUB. 2 SEALED BEARINGS. POLISH ANODIZED BLK. W/ 12MM THRU HOLE 14*32H.OLN:142MM. D:44.1

>> R.HUB THRUAxle w/QR JTECH QR269, ANODIZED BLACK 12x142mm, L: M12xP1.75x 174mm

>> Spokes 14Gx64 PCS S.S. XD BLACK W/14MM BRASS NIPPLE

>> Rims WTB i19 TCS 700c 32 hole drilling, Disc Only, Black Anodized; I-Beam Construction, 4D Drilling, PV drilled*See FAQ page for Tubeless system setup

>> Tires CONTINENTAL Ultra Sport II 700x28C BLK TREAD BLK S/W 180TPI, FOLDing Bead

>> Brakes SHIMANO DISC-BRAKE SET/ ULTEGRA R8000, FOR 160MM ROTOR, RESIN PAD / SHIMANO ROTOR FOR DISC-BRAKE, SM-RT76, DEORE XT, 160MM, 6-BOLT TYPE

>> Brake Levers SHIMANO DISC-BRAKE SET/ ULTEGRA R8000 Hydraulic

>> Handlebar RITCHEY EVO ROAD BAR (C:31.8) ALLOY(6061) W/TUNNEL BUILT IN TYPE B/CENTER: 31.8mm 400/420/440mm FOR 50-53/55/58-61cm, D/R:130/75mm,BB BLK

>> Stem/ Headset RITCHEY STEM COMP 4-AXIS 84/6D (C:31.8)-28.6 ALLOY (6061) TIOGA-OS, STEM.EXT: (-6°) 90/100/110mm FOR 50-53 / 55 /58-61CM, C/S:31.8/28.6x42mm, BB BLK/ FSA NO.42E/ ACB Sealed 1-1/8 ACB Top, 1.5" ACB Btm
(for 46/56mm) W/TOP CAP W/15 mm Cone Spacer

>> Saddle RITCHEY COMP STREEM 132 Synthetic Leather, Nylon + GF Shell, Steel Rail

>> Seat Post RITCHEY COMP CARBON 2B W/ALLOY BB BLACK HEAD 27.2 X 350MM, UD MATT FINISH

ticyclist

thank you for chiming in. I am going to give this serious thought

Russ Roth

Good update with the full specs, the hub details basically claimed they were convertible from 135/100 QR to 142/100 Thru axle without telling us which it is; the extra details say 142/100 thru. The rims you have aren't that bad and being part of a disc system are probably barely worn. Rebuilding them with CK hubs will save a reasonable amount of weight since I've yet to meet a lightweight joytech hub. I'd rebuild with butted spokes for a better overall build while also deducting about an extra ounce per wheel. Nothing wrong with sticking with brass nipples on the build. The CK hubs will roll smoother and longer than the joytech while requiring very little maintenance. You'll be looking at R45D hubs for the replacement. If you're buying new or used off ebay or similar, make sure you're getting the 11sp versions and CK charges a good amount for replacement axles so don't get a QR version thinking you'll convert them unless its a great savings. I've changed over a front classic and a rear r45 and the axle swap on both was in the 100 price range per hub.

indyfabz

I can believe that. When I got a set of wheels built with CK hubs, I was riding 10 speed. Years later, I had a custom frame built and went with DA 9000, which was 11 speed, and moved the wheel over. The insert or whatever it was to make the rear hub 11 speed compatible was something like $125, IIRC. And that was 2006 prices.

stan01

Its kinda hard to tell from the pictures but is your Ti frame thru-axle only or is it quick release drop out? The fork is definitely T/A. Because the specs that you provided aren't clear either. Some older bikes before the manufacturer's agreed on a common standard used both T/A & Q/R on the same bike. If your bike is T/A only, then no obstacles as to what kind of wheels or hubs you decide to get. Let us know what you have.

Having another set of wheels gives you much more options. One bike can do it all for any type of riding by using 2 sets of wheels. One can be set up to be lighter, smoother, faster and the other set pf wheels can be set up for more durability, better traction or whatever. The options are up to you & only limited by your imagination. Myself personally, I ride my bike on the road & on gravel. So 2 set of wheels makes sense because the gravel wheels while they ride great on gravel, they are slow on the road. Of course whatever you decide to do, its your choice. I just wanted you to be aware of all your options.

mstateglfr 

Those pics give some clarification, but hardly full clarification.
This isnt tough- just look at the wheels, especially the rear, and see if the wheel can drop out of the frame by loosening the QR lever or if you have to fully unwind and pull out a metal tube for the wheel to drop out of the frame.
If its just a hinged QR lever, then your frame has a 135mm OLD and you need to make sure that a future wheelset can convert between 142mm and 135mm. Most modern hubs can, once you have the correct endcaps.
If there is a metal tube that threads into the frame and you have to fully remove the tube for the wheel to come off, then you have a 142mm thru axle frame. That is incredibly common for rear disc hub size now.


As for what you want- buy some CK hubs if that is what you really want. I dont see the value in them, but others do. I see them as overly expensive and neat looking since they anodize in many colors.
A set of Bitex BX106 centerlock disc hubs weigh 394g and cost $215.
A set of CK R45D centerlock disc hubs weigh 409g and cost $910.
Both are easily serviced. Both have bearings that are easily replaceable. Both have reliable seal designs.
...and Bitex come in many colors, for what its worth. https://www.bikehubstore.com/product-p/bx106r.htm

But again, buy what you want- CK hubs are super cool looking so get em if you want em. But yeah, like others have said- buy a new wheelset entirely. Get some cool modern higher level rims if you are going to rock CK hubs. A 2nd wheelset is never a bad thing and the cost difference is minimal compared to the cost of CK hubs, new spokes, new nipples, and relacing the current rims.

LarrySellerz

He probably wants louder wheels, why else would you put CK hubs on? The weight savings are minimal

katsup

Your photos are out of order causing confusion. The first and last photo appear to be the front wheel. Front is a TA, and the specs say 12mm, so it's 12mm axle with 100mm width hub. I don't see any photos of the side of the rear axle.

Just use the photo below. The one on top left is a Salsa QR skewer, while the bottom right is a TA. Note how the TA screws into the frame while the QR has an end that the skewer screws into.



If you have a QR rear, it could be 130mm or 135mm width. 135mm width is more common.