ls0725

I changed my bottom bracket to a brand new Shimano BB-5500 some 3 weeks ago and all was good after 300 miles in 2 weeks, yesterday there was a squeaking sound on the non-drive side (left) only on the down stroke when pedalling..squeak..squeak...it goes.

I know its not coming from the BB interface with the crankarm and suspect might be over or lack of torque when I tightened the BB end cup. Question - should I try to tighten or loosen the end cup to eliminate the squeak? Do BB cups loosen or tighten after some usage when new?

Lastly, could it be the bearings? It looks sealed type. It is a brand new BB w/ only 300 miles on it.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

electrik

maybe the grease you used on the threads washed out?

tadawdy

Well, you've narrowed it down. If you're absolutely certain it's not the crank interface, probably a loose cup. I'd make sure the crank isn't loose first.

They can, especially if they're not torqued to spec to begin with. Happened to me.

TLCFORBIKES

Your frame probably has a English threaded BB shell. If this is the case then both cups are tightened by turning counter clockwise and the cups on both sides loosen by turning clockwise. When you are pedaling down the road -- you are turning your cranks in a clockwise rotation. If your BB cups are not properly torqued then they will loosen up. When they get loose you normally hear a creaking noise on the down stroke on the BB cup that is loose. The more loose the cup -- the more noise even without hard efforts. All the BB cups need to be checked on a annual basis to insure good performance.`The noise could also be from lack of grease on the spindle/NDS arm contact area or loose screws on the NDS arm. Check and make sure you have grease on the pedal threads. Metal on metal without lube can also make a noise like a loose BB cup.

Dan Burkhart 

Huh? English BB is left threaded drive side, right threaded non drive side. This tends to prevent loosening of the cups, not cause it.

Jeff Wills

What kind of frame material? Did you grease all of the threads (frame, crank/BB, pedals) before assembly?

FWIW: I switched the BB on my Ultegra triple crank last summer. It was quiet for a week, squeaked for a week, then it's been quiet ever since. Weird.

ls0725

Thank you for all response and I may have to remove the BB again and regrease as first move. Tighten. Then regrease the spindle/crank interface. Finally, grease pedal grooves. It's quite easy since the cranks have self-extractor bolts. FC-6500 Ultegra.

And to tighten cups for BOTH sides, my wrench handle should go in the direction of the rear wheel right?

wrk101

+1 What he said.

TLCFORBIKES

I do stand corrected about the threads. I should have said that that both cup tighten in the same direction (attach your BB tool and torque wrench --point it towards the rear and press down). To loosen the cups -- both cups come off in the same direction ( attach proper BB tool and a wrench/cheaterbar or whatever and point it towards the front and press down). Since the threads are opposite threaded and are on opposite sides -- each cup goes on in the same direction and both sides come off in the same direction. But the part about your spinning the crank will eventually loosen your BB still stands. The drive side cup loosens to the right and the non-drive side loosens to the left which means both sides loosen in the direction that the crank is rotating.

desertdork

Isn't the primary reason for English threading to ensure that precession keeps the bb from self-loosening? If it wasn't, then what's the point of reverse threading on the DS in the first place?

Dan Burkhart 

This is intuitive but incorrect. Thanks to a phenomenon called precession, wherein rotational forces are reversed due to the bearings within the assembly, loosening is prevented.
It is the reason for using left threads on the drive side in the first place.
Italian and French BBs which use right threads on both sides are prone to loosening cups on the drive side.

TLCFORBIKES

Thank you guy's for the technical schooling.

Mr. Fly

+1.

Also, if you haven't eliminate it already, I've found that cleats can occasionally squeak.

Jeff Wills

What are you using to tighten the cranks? Those 8mm "self extractor bolts" are tough to tighten properly. Park Tool says 305-391 inch-pounds, or about 25 to 30 foot-pounds, which is a hefty heave on the average 8mm hex wrench.

ls0725

I use a shimano M520L 2-bolt pedal which really for MTB but I like them for road. Will check the contact with the cleats on the shoes too. thanks

ls0725

"What are you using to tighten the cranks? Those 8mm "self extractor bolts" are tough to tighten properly. Park Tool says 305-391 inch-pounds, or about 25 to 30 foot-pounds, which is a hefty heave on the average 8mm hex wrench."

That much? I am only using a hex wrench with a 6" arm and tighten as best I could. Now I am sure I am not getting enough torque on it, will put a longer extension on the arm to give me more mechanicaladvantage. Will let you know of the culprit as soon as I have isolated it.