Bike size as you age
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Bike size as you age
I was wondering what people thought about the size of your bicycle as you get older. I notice I want to be more upright, by quite a bit which is fine as I am a commuter and enjoy longer rides. I have a few bikes and like my 60cm as I am 6'2", but I am wondering if a slightly smaller frame with a higher seat and handlebars would be good as there would be less reach.
One of the reasons I am asking this question is there is a perfect touring bike for sale that I love, but it is a 56cm. My current daily bike is a 58cm, with a high seat and extended handlebars. Not sure how high you can go with seat and handlebars?
Can a 6'2" man closing in on 60 years old ride a 56cm with a higher seat and handlebars as you are closer to handlebars if the frame is smaller?
I am probably trying to figure out if I can buy that bike and make it comfortable. Has anyone gone smaller for less reach, or do most people get a bigger frame, so you need less spacers and longer stem?
Thanks for your thoughts.
One of the reasons I am asking this question is there is a perfect touring bike for sale that I love, but it is a 56cm. My current daily bike is a 58cm, with a high seat and extended handlebars. Not sure how high you can go with seat and handlebars?
Can a 6'2" man closing in on 60 years old ride a 56cm with a higher seat and handlebars as you are closer to handlebars if the frame is smaller?
I am probably trying to figure out if I can buy that bike and make it comfortable. Has anyone gone smaller for less reach, or do most people get a bigger frame, so you need less spacers and longer stem?
Thanks for your thoughts.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,601
Bikes: 06 Lemond Reno, 98 GT Timberline mtn.bike
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 427 Post(s)
Liked 700 Times
in
436 Posts
Is the bike locally for sale, so you could test ride? Or does a LBS have a similar bike you could ride? If I was to feel I needed to ride more upright, the first thing I would try would be a shorter stem, maybe with more of a rise. Inexpensive and easily reversable.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,442
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4414 Post(s)
Liked 4,867 Times
in
3,012 Posts
It sounds like you are already pushing the limits with a 58 cm frame, which is not surprising at 6'2". A shorter stem would be an easier and more direct solution to shorten reach. Do you know what the stack height of this touring bike is relative to your current bike? That key info would give you a good idea of what bodging would be required to fit.
Likes For PeteHski:
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: In the foothills of Los Angeles County
Posts: 25,296
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8281 Post(s)
Liked 9,053 Times
in
4,479 Posts
Bikes from different manufacturers can have different geometry even if they're both called "56", or "medium". The fit can be different and you need to look at more than whatever size it is called. To me, top tube length is far more important than the size label.
First, figure out what dimensions you want like reach, stack, etc. Then find a geometry chart for a frame you are considering and see if it will work. Of course, if you can ride it that will help.
I'm against using weird contraptions to make the wrong size frame work but some are fine with it.
Having said all that a 56 seems rather small for someone 6'2". But depending on the rest of the frame dimensions and your body dimensions it might work.
fwiw I'm 6'2" and the smallest frame I have had is a 62.
First, figure out what dimensions you want like reach, stack, etc. Then find a geometry chart for a frame you are considering and see if it will work. Of course, if you can ride it that will help.
I'm against using weird contraptions to make the wrong size frame work but some are fine with it.
Having said all that a 56 seems rather small for someone 6'2". But depending on the rest of the frame dimensions and your body dimensions it might work.
fwiw I'm 6'2" and the smallest frame I have had is a 62.
Last edited by big john; 10-25-23 at 08:03 AM.
Likes For big john:
#5
Junior Member
I'm 68 and 6'3" and a bike fit made a huge difference. I was riding the bike of my youth, a MASI GC at 62cm (CtoC) but it kept feeling a bit bigger as the years went on. Now all my bikes are 59 or 59.5 with stems and saddle heights dictated by the fit. Off the top of my head 56 sounds too small but get a fit.
#6
señor miembro
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 6,625
Bikes: '70s - '80s Campagnolo
Mentioned: 92 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3889 Post(s)
Liked 6,488 Times
in
3,211 Posts
My bike frames have gotten larger by one or two sizes as I've aged. In my younger years, I wanted to ride the smallest size in my range thinking that, well, they're lighter or more agile. Now, I realize it's more about comfort to be able to stay in the saddle for hours. A taller/longer frame is simply more comfortable on the roads. I used to ride 56. My most recent keeper is labeled a 59, but the top tube is 57.5.
Likes For SurferRosa:
#7
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,992
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6196 Post(s)
Liked 4,810 Times
in
3,318 Posts
I rode oversize bikes most all my young life and generally sat more upright. It wasn't till I turned 50 and started riding a lot that I even thought about getting aero. As my speed and distance increased I saw the benefits to being aero. I thoroughly enjoy my Tarmac in the smaller size frame than I've ever had and the low aero position it gives me. When riding at over 20mph, it's very apparent the aero benefit I get in the drops even as opposed to the slightly less aero position I have when on the hoods.
That big watt savings will benefit those that want to do long rides at more than just a pace you'd do for bike touring with loaded paniers on front or back. So I'm never certain why older people tend to want to sit up. At 65 y.o. I'm lower and more aero on the bike than ever.
That big watt savings will benefit those that want to do long rides at more than just a pace you'd do for bike touring with loaded paniers on front or back. So I'm never certain why older people tend to want to sit up. At 65 y.o. I'm lower and more aero on the bike than ever.
#8
climber has-been
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 7,111
Bikes: Scott Addict R1, Felt Z1
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3432 Post(s)
Liked 3,567 Times
in
1,793 Posts
I rode oversize bikes most all my young life and generally sat more upright. It wasn't till I turned 50 and started riding a lot that I even thought about getting aero. As my speed and distance increased I saw the benefits to being aero. I thoroughly enjoy my Tarmac in the smaller size frame than I've ever had and the low aero position it gives me. When riding at over 20mph, it's very apparent the aero benefit I get in the drops even as opposed to the slightly less aero position I have when on the hoods.
That big watt savings will benefit those that want to do long rides at more than just a pace you'd do for bike touring with loaded paniers on front or back. So I'm never certain why older people tend to want to sit up. At 65 y.o. I'm lower and more aero on the bike than ever.
That big watt savings will benefit those that want to do long rides at more than just a pace you'd do for bike touring with loaded paniers on front or back. So I'm never certain why older people tend to want to sit up. At 65 y.o. I'm lower and more aero on the bike than ever.
There’s also a trade off when you get lower, as your hip angle gets smaller. If your hip angle is more open, you can put more force into the pedals. I’ll sit up a bit on steep climbs to open my hip angle, trading off aero for more torque.
Likes For terrymorse:
#9
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,992
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6196 Post(s)
Liked 4,810 Times
in
3,318 Posts
There’s also a trade off when you get lower, as your hip angle gets smaller. If your hip angle is more open, you can put more force into the pedals. I’ll sit up a bit on steep climbs to open my hip angle, trading off aero for more torque.
I tend to stay in the drops on climbs that I can maintain speed. And even for climbs at moderate speed as the angle of my arms in the drops seems to help me offset the push of my legs so I keep power in the pedals.
But in general I agree with you.
#10
Mother Nature's Son
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Sussex County, Delaware
Posts: 3,118
Bikes: 2014 Orbea Avant MD30, 2004 Airborne Zeppelin TI, 2003 Lemond Poprad, 2001 Lemond Tourmalet, 2014? Soma Smoothie
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 853 Post(s)
Liked 1,437 Times
in
819 Posts
I have not changed bike size, but I have switched stems with 17 to 35 degrees of rise. With drop bars, I have also gone to shorter stems with very shallow drop, like the Ritchey Beacon Bar. I have chronic shoulder and spinal issues and cannot do the long and low, at least not with comfort. I had my saddle height a bit lower, but have returned to what it used to be, 72cm from center bb to top of saddle. There was a time I would not have a riser type stem on a road bike. Now, I do what gives me the comfort to continue to ride like I want to.
#11
just another gosling
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Everett, WA
Posts: 19,535
Bikes: CoMo Speedster 2003, Trek 5200, CAAD 9, Fred 2004
Mentioned: 115 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3889 Post(s)
Liked 1,938 Times
in
1,383 Posts
My ride is the bike I bought new in 2000. Still perfect for me. Although a few years ago I went to a fitter, who shortened my reach and put on a stem with a few degrees of rise. Over time, I've moved my saddle forward some and now I'm going to go back to my longer -17° slammed stem. So basically no change. I do a good stretch routine most days and go to the gym twice a week. I'm planning on riding RAMROD again next year at 79. I'm riding the tandem with my wife now, trying to get back in shape. We bought it in '07, haven't changed the setup since we reconfigured it then except for adding aero bars for both of us..
__________________
Results matter
Results matter
#12
Veteran, Pacifist
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Seattle area
Posts: 13,328
Bikes: Bikes??? Thought this was social media?!?
Mentioned: 284 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3898 Post(s)
Liked 4,836 Times
in
2,229 Posts
h_curtis - I am 6'1" and 73yo, still riding drop bar road bikes. Until not too long ago I was riding 58 - 63cm frames. In the last purge, the 58s and 63cm frames exited. I could not image making a 56 fit unless it was a time trial or track only bike. Butt,... anything is nearly possible with saddle setback, long seatposts, tall stems, handlebar styles, 650 wheels, etc.
My custom roadie from nearly 20 years ago, anticipating aging shrinkage and loss of flexibility, still runs a 14cm stem. Newer saddles have helped me.
Stay flexible. Work the core.
edit: I find I'm keeping many with longer chainstays and slacker angles. This 60cm is a perfect fit.
My custom roadie from nearly 20 years ago, anticipating aging shrinkage and loss of flexibility, still runs a 14cm stem. Newer saddles have helped me.
Stay flexible. Work the core.
edit: I find I'm keeping many with longer chainstays and slacker angles. This 60cm is a perfect fit.
__________________
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Last edited by Wildwood; 10-25-23 at 03:32 PM.
Likes For Wildwood:
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 4,397
Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Liked 450 Times
in
338 Posts
I was wondering what people thought about the size of your bicycle as you get older. I notice I want to be more upright, by quite a bit which is fine as I am a commuter and enjoy longer rides. I have a few bikes and like my 60cm as I am 6'2", but I am wondering if a slightly smaller frame with a higher seat and handlebars would be good as there would be less reach.
.
.
Last edited by oldbobcat; 10-25-23 at 06:44 PM.
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It is super far away. I would consider driving a day away for the right bike, but this is way far away.
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It sounds like you are already pushing the limits with a 58 cm frame, which is not surprising at 6'2". A shorter stem would be an easier and more direct solution to shorten reach. Do you know what the stack height of this touring bike is relative to your current bike? That key info would give you a good idea of what bodging would be required to fit.
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Unless you're built like a gorilla (short legs, long arms), a 56 cm anything will be too small. If you're considering a new bike, consider an "endurance" geometry bike, like a Trek Domane. Or tweak the fit on your current bike with a shorter stem, with possibly more rise.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Boulder County, CO
Posts: 4,397
Bikes: '80 Masi Gran Criterium, '12 Trek Madone, early '60s Frejus track
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 514 Post(s)
Liked 450 Times
in
338 Posts
The T-rex build, the ideal candidate for a short top tube and long head tube. If you don't mind, I bird-dogged some used bikes for you. Endurance Road Bikes & Framesets | TPC - The Pro's Closet (theproscloset.com)
The 60 cm Trek Domane SL5 looks like a match.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,442
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4414 Post(s)
Liked 4,867 Times
in
3,012 Posts
Like I said before, tell us about the geometry of the 58 cm bike you are currently riding and the 56 cm you are considering.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Lebanon (Liberty Hill), CT
Posts: 8,473
Bikes: CAAD 12, MASI Gran Criterium S, Colnago World Cup CX & Guru steel
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1743 Post(s)
Liked 1,281 Times
in
740 Posts
I started cycling when I was about 35. I rode a 54 frame with approx. 55 TT. Today I am 77 and ride a 54/55 frame with a 55 TT. Even after a crash that resulted in a C1 & C2 fusion. Just bought a Canyon Aeroad in that size.
#20
climber has-been
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 7,111
Bikes: Scott Addict R1, Felt Z1
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3432 Post(s)
Liked 3,567 Times
in
1,793 Posts
There is some common wisdom that says as you age, you become less flexible, so older riders must reduce bar drop and reach. But I don't think that applies to active, athletic cyclists. The older riders I know have been riding the same position for decades. Myself included (age 65).
Likes For terrymorse:
#21
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,992
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6196 Post(s)
Liked 4,810 Times
in
3,318 Posts
I've too always hear people say they aren't flexible enough to ride in a aggressive aero position. I don't know that being flexible is a requirement. If you can sit in a chair and lean forward enough to tie your shoes, you should be able to sit on a bike an lean forward in a aggressive aero position. And actually I think tying your shoes requires more bending.
A almost no time in my life have I been limber enough to touch my toes. Today I can't even get my hands more than midway down my shins when attempting to touch my toes standing up. But I've never thought that a reason not to ride bikes that provide a aggressive aero position.
A almost no time in my life have I been limber enough to touch my toes. Today I can't even get my hands more than midway down my shins when attempting to touch my toes standing up. But I've never thought that a reason not to ride bikes that provide a aggressive aero position.
Likes For Iride01:
#22
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I've too always hear people say they aren't flexible enough to ride in a aggressive aero position. I don't know that being flexible is a requirement. If you can sit in a chair and lean forward enough to tie your shoes, you should be able to sit on a bike an lean forward in a aggressive aero position. And actually I think tying your shoes requires more bending.
A almost no time in my life have I been limber enough to touch my toes. Today I can't even get my hands more than midway down my shins when attempting to touch my toes standing up. But I've never thought that a reason not to ride bikes that provide an have aggressive aero position.
A almost no time in my life have I been limber enough to touch my toes. Today I can't even get my hands more than midway down my shins when attempting to touch my toes standing up. But I've never thought that a reason not to ride bikes that provide an have aggressive aero position.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,442
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4414 Post(s)
Liked 4,867 Times
in
3,012 Posts
I've too always hear people say they aren't flexible enough to ride in a aggressive aero position. I don't know that being flexible is a requirement. If you can sit in a chair and lean forward enough to tie your shoes, you should be able to sit on a bike an lean forward in a aggressive aero position. And actually I think tying your shoes requires more bending.
A almost no time in my life have I been limber enough to touch my toes. Today I can't even get my hands more than midway down my shins when attempting to touch my toes standing up. But I've never thought that a reason not to ride bikes that provide a aggressive aero position.
A almost no time in my life have I been limber enough to touch my toes. Today I can't even get my hands more than midway down my shins when attempting to touch my toes standing up. But I've never thought that a reason not to ride bikes that provide a aggressive aero position.
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,806
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1944 Post(s)
Liked 2,164 Times
in
1,323 Posts
So… have you started to shrink a bit?
Getting slightly smaller may make things fit better as you age.
I know that I’m a bit shorter at almost 72 than I was at 32. At 5’8”+ I’m still riding a 56cm which was always a bit big for me 30 years ago, more so now. On the positive side, with a long torso the top tube fits me really well.
John
Getting slightly smaller may make things fit better as you age.
I know that I’m a bit shorter at almost 72 than I was at 32. At 5’8”+ I’m still riding a 56cm which was always a bit big for me 30 years ago, more so now. On the positive side, with a long torso the top tube fits me really well.
John
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 3,843
Bikes: Trek Domane SL6 Gen 3, Soma Fog Cutter, Focus Mares AL, Detroit Bikes Sparrow FG, Volae Team, Nimbus MUni
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 896 Post(s)
Liked 2,065 Times
in
1,081 Posts
With age, the spinal column compresses and connective tissue becomes less flexible. Genetics and substances might have some effect, but it is inevitable. Legs and arms, generally, don't get shorter. Neck flexibility reduces. Impact on bike fit follows. More upper body than lower. Bar drop and reach, not seat tube length.
Unless you already have a short tall stem, I don't see reason for a smaller frame.
Unless you already have a short tall stem, I don't see reason for a smaller frame.
Likes For downtube42: