Rick

I have looked at over a dozen YouTube videos on road handlebar width. I have a 48cm Nitto Noodle. I am thinking about the 54cm Nitto Noodle. There are evidently several ways to measure ones shoulders. One particular video said to measure the center of the shoulders from the front and add 2cm to this figure. The only stipulation on wider after doing this would be needing a shorter stem. Does this sound correct.

100bikes

You can definitely do this on your own or, rely on the collective knowledge(but remember we cannot see you).
There is likely to be a bit of trial and error potential. You will also need to have access to a pretty sizeable inventory
of stems and bars.
-OR-
If the ultimate, final fit is what you are after, I would suggest having a pro fit done.
The knowledge, resources and expertise will likely save you time, frustration and possibly
avoid making expensive mistakes in trying different combinations.

There are a number of variables involved in this decision. They include, but not are not
limited to :
1. You - your dimensions
2. Your use
3. The bike/frame you are customizing
4. Style option of the bars
5. Current and future stem
6 .........

By no means an exhaustive list.
Also, keep in mind that all of these elements (and more) must be taken in concert.
A change in one dimension on one part will impact the optimal dimensions of all the other parts.

IMO

rusty

terrymorse 

Before swapping out your wide bars for even wider bars, consider this:

If you're looking for speed, narrower bars are a simple way to pick up some free watts. Some tests suggest that reducing bar width by 2 cm can save 25 watts at 40 kph. Pros are using bars as narrow as 36 cm.

Narrow is Aero: how to go narrow for free speed

Iride01 

The wider your bars, the more you'll be braced with your arms. That means your shoulders, arms, elbows, wrists and hands will be taking the brunt of all the forces you encounter on the road.

The common method of measuring bars for a road bike has been to match the measurement between the acromion process of both shoulders. That had me on 42 cm bars. But I found out that I like narrower bars and went to 38cm bars. It seems to make the bike more natural feeling for handling twisty downhill bends. As well it's easier to make last minute darts to the side to miss road hazards that suddenly appear out of nowhere.

But the big thing for bars is not any one magical formula. It's simply which do you prefer.


edit.... Oh yeah, the other big thing that going to the narrower bars did for me was to keep my wrists straight when in the drops for a while. With the 42cm bars, my wrists would tend to bend when in the drops and that made for numb hands.

Wildwood 

54cm bars on a road bike? Seems extreme. But some people have a lot of trinkets to mount.

Clear your handlebars and your mind may follow.

Steve B.

It comes down to what you like and feel comfortable on. No magic formula and you can go nuts watching YT and reading about it. What have you been riding on ?, and do you feel the need for wider ? Or what ?. FWIW, I’m a bulky guy, use 46 and would not go wider. I cannot imagine a 54 and didn’t even know they went that wide, I thought 46 was it.

wheelreason

This reminds me of guys deciding on fishing rods (I got kicked out of there which is why I'm here). Do your current bars feel too narrow, too wide, or just right? That's how you decide. Oh, and the older GLXs were the best rods made, the new ones are just ok...

Rick

I had the wife measure me like what is shown in the video. She came up with 46cm so add 2 and 48cm. I last had crazy bars and they are a really wide straight bar. I was thinking wider because I plan on some of the tarmac riding. I still have some seatpost rail left for sliding the seat forward if needed. I have never used the drops allot. I mainly ride with my hands over the hoods and on the flats. Rivendell bicycle markets the Nitto Noodle in two wider widths than sold elsewhere. The 52cm and the 54cm. The bike was originally set up with an ergo drop bar that was 44cm. That bar broke when I was sideswiped. I was happy to see it gone. The guy who measured me was pretty much all about racing. Yes YouTube can drive you looney. I have the same stem length as what came on the bike. I was 357 lbs three months ago and am now 317 lbs. This has been done not on the bike. I am currently waiting on a couple of parts to finish putting the bicycle back to running. I hope to be under 300 lbs before hopping back on it. Thanks everybody for the info.

ckamp

I have always gone with the acromion width as a starting point. But then found I wanted them a bit more narrow to keep my wrists and hands from getting minor numbness along my pinky finger. I tried going wider.. bit I just felt like the steering was more difficult on downhill descents.

Calsun

I want to have handlebars that put the brake levers in a comfortable position to support some of my weight. That means having the brake levers near the center of my shoulders so I can have my forearms relatively straight.

If I wanted to worry about air drag I would add aero bar extensions but I do not do time trialing or triathalons so there is no point in doing so. They also would make the bikes too long to fit in my vehicles so I would need to use a bike rack 100% of the time and then worry about the bikes getting stolen.

LarrySellerz

Always go as narrow as possible. They should be narrower than your shoulders

shelbyfv

rsbob 

This is info I really didn’t need. As if I needed another excuse to buy more bike gear.

And I can hear Mrs RSbob, “And you need another set of handlebars because?”

I already know an explanation will be useless, so won’t bother.

LarrySellerz

yeah, that looks good. OP mirror this shoulder to bar ratio

Mike sgonre

What You'll Need:

Tape measure or ruler
A friend or a mirror
Step 1: Find Your Shoulder Width

Stand up straight with your arms relaxed at your sides.
Have a friend help you or use a mirror to ensure you are in a natural and relaxed posture.
Measure the distance between the bony protrusions on the tops of your shoulders. These are the points where your collarbones meet your shoulder blades.
Step 2: Calculate the Handlebar Width

The handlebar width should roughly match your shoulder width, with some variations based on personal preferences and riding style. Here are some guidelines:

Equal Width: For a balanced and neutral riding position, your handlebar width should be about the same as your shoulder width.

Narrower Handlebars: If you prefer a more aerodynamic or aggressive riding position, you can choose handlebars that are slightly narrower (about 2-4 cm less than your shoulder width). This position can be more aerodynamic and may be preferred by competitive road cyclists.

Wider Handlebars: If you want more stability and comfort, or if you plan to do a lot of endurance or long-distance riding, you can opt for handlebars that are slightly wider (about 2-4 cm more than your shoulder width). Wider handlebars provide better control and comfort, especially during long rides.

Personal Preference: Ultimately, your personal comfort and riding style play a significant role. You may want to experiment with different handlebar widths to see what works best for you. Some cyclists prefer a slightly wider or narrower handlebar to suit their preferences.

Additional Considerations:

Drop Bars vs. Flat Bars: The type of handlebars you have (drop bars or flat bars) can influence your riding position and, therefore, your handlebar width. Drop bars typically come in a variety of widths to suit different riding styles.

Test Ride: If possible, test ride a bike with different handlebar widths to get a sense of what feels most comfortable for you

rsbob 

Or if aero is a consideration, bolt on a pair of aero-bars.

bruce19

All good info here. I measure out at around a 42 cm but I am comfortable with 40 and have been OK with 38.

ofajen

Yeah, it turns out I’m better off with narrow bars. I get 50 cm for my acromion measurement. I spent many years with wider bars, most recently 45 cm Nitto. And never really loved them.

This summer I tried my new TRP RRL levers on old GB bars that are about 41 cm in the drops and about 39 cm at the hoods and suddenly my hands were comfortable. So narrow may be worth at least a try.

Otto

Sy Reene

Also make sure you know how the manufacturer is labelling the sizes on their bars. Some do it from the hoods, some do it from the bar's drop ends (with any flare this can add 2cm+).

Wildwood 

Over the years, I have thought about the handlebar width issue a lot.

First and foremost is that someone has to feel safe. Use what you like.

For drop bar road bikes ridden in the traditional 'aero' position. 'Aero' meaning some amount of forward tilt in upper body, but not necessarily a race position.
Here's how I measure what's comfortable (for me).
1. stand barefoot on the floor, feet apart as they would be on the bicycle.
2. relax, breathe deeply as one would on the bicycle
3. bend forward at the waist, to point of comfort; or, as one would bend forward on the bicycle
4. let arms extend downward naturally, relax
5. the distance between middle of palms is the ideal handlebar width** for a road bike.

**Too narrow? Even I don't ride 25cm bars. Widen your bars to provide the level of stability that the terrain dictates. And for your handling preferences. But dump this shoulder width theory, it is only a reference starting point for beginners who lean heavily on their hands on the bars while learning the basic road cycling position.

ymmv