georges1

wishing you a quick and speedy recovery

georges1

columbus max frame, one of my favorite tubings and great bianchi

52telecaster

It was a Freudian slip!

VintageSteelEU

Funny thing; when I first used Suntour derailleur, I thought lack of that spring is going to be a problem. And then it shofted beautifully and I ditched all Shimano derailleurs I had. Bar one, but that bicycle I ride in winter and wearing gloves, so index shifting helps. And now, despite having more bicycles, parts and frames I could possibly use on regular basis, I'm thinking about getting one with Sprint gruppo... Suntour is addictive.

Mr. 66

The humble bumblebee 🐝 gets cleaned and polished.

noglider 

By the way, I often get super anxious when I design a wheel because I'm afraid I'll get the spoke lengths wrong. I use a google sheet I converted from Damon Rinard's Excel spreadsheet called spocalc. His math is perfectly fine, obviously, but then I need to get the hub and rim measurements pretty darn close. I've only come up with wrong spoke lengths once since using this spreadsheet, so that's pretty good, and when I started to build the wheel last night, of course, that anxious feeling set in. But the wheel came together without a hitch. I had meant to try to plan it with that extra touch where sighting through the valve stem hole can show the hub logo. But I forgot. And then I got lucky. Not that anyone will notice. It's so silly how some of us keep adding useless rituals to our utilitarian routines. It's added complexity and opportunity for added anxiety. Knowamean?

RCMoeur 

I'm going out on a limb here, but I think the wheel will hold up perfectly well regardless of hub label orientation. At least it's not where there's a cross over the valve hole, like someone did on one of their first wheels 40+ years ago (and I ran into on a machine-built wheel not so long ago).

RCMoeur 

Not much time for bikes today, but I did replace the grips on my alumicruiser - Saturday's ride told me in no uncertain terms the old grips were plumb wore out. Trying something eclectic here (no surprise on my bikes) - $1.75 cushy green silicone eBay grips on the main bar, and some red Spenco grips on the bar ends (that I picked up cheep at some bike swap eons ago). Hopefully this setup will hold up for a few years of busy use.

BTinNYC 

Adding a bit of color to The Princess's UO-8 build. She picked this great shade; 1 Shot Peacock Blue, I was pushing for a softer blue. Decals next, clear coat this weekend, so assembly at the end of the month.

Classtime 

BTinNYC I think I missed the post where you share your technique of painting the blue. Absolute Perfection!

sloar 

$15 to save this bike, it’s going to take a little elbow grease and rusted nuts to replace. But for the price I think it’s worth it. So far nothing is stuck or broke.

VintageSteelEU

I wouldn't buy and ride a wheel where the decal / manufacturer's logo is in an "incorrect" place Because that tells you the person who built it is either careless or a mad genious. Considering the percentage of the general population who are mad geniuses is rather slim, it stands to reason that percentage of wheel builders who are mad geniuses would be roughly similar, which leaves us with the careless crowd. Ultimately, of course it doesn't matter where the logo is and which way it's facing, but I'd like to know the person who built the wheel paid attention to what they are doing. But, if I were to buy a complete wheel these days, it would most likely be for the hub and because of that I don't particularly care what they've done with the spokes and the rim. Rituals and conventions can be comforting

BTinNYC 

Ready for clear coat.

ascherer 

Well done, Tom!

RogueB

Hello to all,

In lieu of introduction let me just share that I am “near” new to this forum and have total of 5 posts, all of them on “Show us your Raleigh” thread.
Unfortunately my communication tally does not entitle me to post pictures, so I could not contribute much in that thread, other than ask few questions of a member who posted a picture of a his refurbished Raleigh Super Course (early 70’s vintage). I received few answers and shared some information on the subject of Raleigh serial numbers and possible date of production.

I have a 1971-1972 Raleigh Super Course which, when new, was a carbon copy of a bike pictured in 1971 Raleigh Super Course US catalog, including the AVA stem, same wheels, hubs, derailleurs, frame, etc. It is the serial number (6 digits only), which points to possible early 1972 production year. (Data from Headbadge website - no association; used as information resource).
I am also familiar with information on Sheldon Brown’s site.

I am in the middle of restoring said bike and, unfortunately, the bottom-bracket spindle’s “race”, on the drive side, is worn; the spindle binds when trying to adjust its “play” to proper tolerances. New (loose) ball bearings did not solve the problem.
The few square taper or Cottered spindles on eBay seem less than serviceable, so remaining options are the sealed BB cartridge or thread-less type. The bottom bracket cup threading is Raleigh's 26 TPI (confirmed), which limits the possibilities drastically.
I can get Phil Wood’s Super Corsa 26TPI BB cups, and possibly the BB cartridge, but I am not sure what spindle length to order.

The full (original cotter type) spindle length is about 135.7 mm, and distance from the “middle” of left cotter slot to “middle” of right cotter slot on the spindle is about 116 mm. Chain-line is about 43.5 mm. Shell width is 70.5 mm.

I looked at Phil Wood Square Taper Bottom Brackets 103-145 mm (JIS Taper), but am not sure which spindle length would work. It would seem that, a square tapered spindle of 116 mm length with 68-73 mm (adjustable) shell should fit my application, and preserve chain-line.
The 135mm spindle would match the full length of Cottered 135 mm spindle, but the latter is asymmetrical, with left side race-to-end length of 33 mm, and right side of 46 mm, hence 116 mm spindle choice (?)

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Chuck M 

Will you mask the chrome, or clear coat over it? I'm a few weeks away from clear coating my rusty Carabela and it has chrome socks and head tube lugs. I just don't think the chrome will hold the clear coat well, and I don't know that the patina will not come back as all out rust. So I'm mulling over what I should do.

BTinNYC 

I'm going to clear coat the chrome too. That's what Peugeot did and it seems to have protected the chrome a bit.

slow rollin

I am going to try some chrome paint over my bad (used to be chrome) chainstays. Were so bad I had to keep sanding down through the chrome so this will be an experiment for me. Luckily the seatstays were fine and the outsides of one chainstay was fine, just the inside and outside drive side.
Currently tried polishing a stem, but found the polishing kit with a 3in wheel on a corded drill was too slow. So far it's coming out good and this leaves me with hope on the campy cranks and other bits to polish out.

bikamper

Still no C&V work, but at least I am ambulatory enough with my knee scooter to get out to the garage and phart around with the 90 year old lathe. At least for two hours at a time, anyway. That's all I can stand on the knee scooter. After that, it's blissful nap time.

I found out that having babbitt bearings on the main shaft of the headstock dates it between 1932 to 1935. It was needle bearings from 1936 on.
I grew up working on old farm equipment and Chevy Stovebolt sixes, AKA babbitt beaters, so babbitt bearings are no big deal. I was able to dial in the clearance with .012 and .002 shims and install the new belts. If I get around to it tomorrow, I'll run it at no load for a while, then re-check the bearing clearances.

I'd work on the Everton but that requires moving the Ural and ATV out of the garage. My shifting foot doesn't work and I don't think I can even swing a leg over either.

Insidious C. 

I wonder if there are C&V knee scooters? It is good you have fun things like the old lathe to occupy yourself with while your body heals.

RogueB

At BTinNYC,
Beautiful restoration; paint scheme looks factory perfect.

BTinNYC 

Gracias! I use the "1-Shot" brand enamel paint and add about 5% paint thinner. For the headtube, three coats; after the first two coats I wet sand each with 2000 grit and after the third coat I polish using a piece of belt leather, the hard side coated with wet cutting compound. Pinstriping masking tape for the pinstripes.

bikamper

Jeez, I hope not. The current 'Evil One' is 8 years old and not all that refined. It beats crutches, though. I need to retrain myself on it and hope to be making chips in a couple weeks.

Prowler 

Oh, that takes me back. My first job out of school was in a hot steel rolling mill. I learned about babbitt bearings, bluing and scraping and “make GD sure the oil systems are up to temperature and pressure for an hour before we try to turn those mills!” Otherwise the mill is down for a week and we’re all working 24x7.

I also learned you could use a welders torch to melt down the scrap bearing halves to make weights for bottom fishing off the “Joisey” coast.

Classtime 

This stuff?

Never knew this existed.