BTinNYC 

I used this:
https://finessepinstriping.com/produ...-striper-f-00/
But it seems the same as the 3M. The key to sharp lines is pulling the masking tape before the paint is dry, like when it's tacky. Dried paint wil chip a little along the tape edge.

VintageSteelEU

Were you brush painting or spray painting? Lining / stripes look great, I thought you used one of the funky lining pens

BTinNYC 

White was rattle can sprayed with 2K primer and 2K gloss white, the blue is brushed. The white got wet sanded with 1000 grit, 2000 grit, then wet cutting compound.

merziac

Any plans to infill the Aztecs on the headtube?

From here it seems like they could be black for contrast or matching blue for big fun.

BTinNYC 

I wanted to do that, but figured doing a good job is beyond my skill. It's such a tight and complicated area, taping, brushing, yeah. There's also some blobs of braze in some of the cutouts, that very early in the project I decided to ignore. No need to highlight that now!

VintageSteelEU

Really well done, that mixte makes me want to get one. Somehow never ended up with a Peugeot, even though my interest in French bicycles started with wanting one. And I ended up with a fleet of Motobecane bicycles and frames (and another one is on its way). No Peugeots and no mixte frames

noglider 

@BTinNYC, I love it.

Argh, where is my chain whip?! I really want to try my new heavier rear wheel.

noglider 

Well, as they say, necessity is a mother. Or something like that. I didn't find my chain whip. For some reason, I have used chains. I used one of them and clamped it on with a vise grip. It was hard to handle, but it worked. I got the cassette off the broken wheel so I could put it on my newly built wheel. Can I really fit a 10-speed cassette onto a hub made for 7 or 8 speeds? I'm not sure which it is. At first, it did not fit. Oh no. The lockring wasn't deep enough to reach into the threads. I tried taking the last cog off, but then the cassette was too wobbly. I tried with all 10 cogs a few times and was eventually successful.

Do they make lockrings with deeper threads? This is probably safe, but if such a thing exists, I'd feel happier.

The last cog was way out near the end of the axle. Was it going to fit? Eureka, it works. And I tested the gears. Yes! Not perfectly, though. If I tighten the shift cable so that it eagerly reaches the big cogs, the derailleur is reluctant to shift to the small cogs. And if I loosen it, that shifts the reluctance to the big cogs. Is this something we all tolerate, or is there a remedy? I live with it by occasionally double shifting. How do others deal with this?

Overall, I'm glad with the resulting new wheel. It's really not that heavy. I won't get to ride it for the first time until next week.

Markeologist

Got my wife a 69/70 Gitane TdF (has Carre-style willow leaf seat stay caps) to go with her 87 Gitane Team Pro. Switching out Pivo stem for a 3ttt, pulling chrome steel seatpost and replacing with Campy, and putting clincher rims on it.

3dvvitch 

Vintage weight weenie Teledyne Titan build. The frame and even the "death fork" are in surprisingly good shape, except for a few scuffs. Got some lightweight goodies to go with it, including Hi-E hubs, rims, and one wacky wheel. Already installed an OMAS headset, waiting on a ti bb and need to order a vintage lightweight handlebar and hollow pin chain.

Dean51 

Overhauled two sets of Campagnolo 8-Speed Ergos.....my first-favorite "modern" shifters. Unlike Shimano, the Campy design is fairly easy to completely disassemble....once you've done a few of them....and I have.

Dean

sloar 

Not too exciting, but for $15 I’m not complaining. The lady thought I was crazy for wanting it.

Marketplace photo not showing the front wheel.

Got it home

Done except new tires.

Classtime 

It looks happy

Kai Winters

Worked on a 50 plus year old ''Roger Riviere" recently. New cables and housings...had to reduce the diameter of the shift cable ends...old style needed which has a smaller diameter. The front...'Triplex'...front derailleur wasn't working and it turned out to be the top of the spring had come off its stop...easy fix...cool thing is the entire der can be disassembled which I did to clean off decades of ick. Wheels weren't too bad fortunately as many of the spokes threads have rusted to the nipples so couldn't move them and the customer didn't want to take the chance of breaking spokes. The customer bought the bike brand new over 50 years ago and still rides it a bit and just wanted it 'rideable' for his mile or two jaunts in his neighborhood. The chain was very worn but again money limits and it was worn to the chain rings, which weren't badly worn, and freewheel, which wasn't badly worn, so all three aged together nicely and shifted just fine. The frame has a nice patina of rust but nothing, externally, dangerous though we warned the customer the bike should be ridden 'gently' just in case...the rust was just a very fine 'dusting' and made the frame look very cool and aged. The hood covers had crumbled off but we had a nice vintage pair of Campy covers which fit and look nice. New bar tape works wonders on a bike. The handlebars were perfect, not a speck of rust.
I started a thread a bit ago asking for old gruppo companies and while I listed several I didn't know "Triplex" so it is cool to see a new/old company popping up. I know there are many I just haven't encountered many during my decades of working in bike shops.
The customer is very happy with how the bike turned out and I hope he has many wonderful rides before that final ride...

Bianchigirll 

Wax on! A bit much in some places but I think I got it all off too. When I first bought this and worked in a bike shop I'd strip it every years wash it really good and use a good paste turtle wax on her. Not sure when was the last time I did it. Still looks good for 34 eh?

Mr. 66

The Pro Miyata gets a proper headset rebuild, a newer wheelset, tricolor 7sp has been added to blender. The Kashimax beat up and torn is new to the pro.

This will get a 35 miles of spin today. I have not rode this in four plus years, I am really looking forward to it.

jamesdak 

8 degrees this morning so puttering around with some of the bikes while waiting for it to hit 40 so I can ride.

Put some new bottle cages on the Moser first. Then I went and gave the Poprad a look to see what was causing the noise last time I rode it. For sure the rear caliper is warped some and dragging on the pad and the wheel needs truing. Went to put some blue bottle cage bolts on the C40 and realized the bolts are a tad smaller so the Wolftooth ones won't work. No big deal. Then I moved onto the Master Extra Light. Swapped out the flexy (never realized that) Ciussi Elite cages for some new silver Bontrager alloy ones. Then took the stem off of the bike to see about swapping on a silver one. Notices the star nut was right at the top of the steerer. Drove it in deeper, swapped on a Thomson stem I had and went to adjust the headset. Star nut pulled right back up the steerer tube. That's sort of a scary find considering I road this last year like that. I guess reality is the stem keeps it all together. Anyway more to follow on that one too. I need to get my hands on some silver spacers for it anyway.

georges1

Did the inventory in my garage and in my cellar, noted that I would need:
-4 to 6 Dura Ace BBUN 7800 or 7700 bottom brackets
-4 to 6 Dura Ace FC 7700-7800 Cranks
-4pairs of Dura Ace 7800 brake calipers
-1cane creek headseat for the cannondale
-4 Selle Italia saddles either flite or turbomatic 2 or century
-3 more pairs of look pp296-356-396 pedals
-7 pairs of Dura Ace ST 7800 brifters
-7 Dura Ace CS 7800 cassettes
-3 pairs of bar ends
-and a lot of tape sets
-6 to 9 bikes stands

Bianchigirll 

I think I’ve gotten as I can today. I'm waiting on some trinkets in the post and back is giving me grief so time to relax adn see if I can update the album for this project without the pics getting all jumbled out of order.

The frame got cleaned and waxed, HS, BB, cranks, FD, calipers/levers, new stem I've had for a while, and new hanks Ben's Cycle!, new Nitto B115s




jamesdak 4? as in 4 degrees Fahrenheit I'm glad we're sort of past that here even 40 is too cold for me these days. Did you get any of those hurricane winds they were talking about Nevada getting the other day?

Mad Honk 

The golfers are coming out of the woodwork now that it is getting a bit warmer, so a morning full of golf related work. But I got a few minutes to make a few additions to Ciooc. So for SwimmerMike here are few pictures. I hope the original owner approves of what I have done to his bike. Smiles, MH

Rear brake bridge as it was this morning.

Fork crown as of this morning. The bars will go on today with Campy record levers.

My choice of dark anodized Modolos with new salmon pads from KS. I had to find a spacer and change the anchoring nut for the recessed brake feature.

Same Modolo treatment for the rear but nothing special needed to be added for the fitment.

My choice of Benotto white tape is a carry over from the Race Across America days. All of those bikes used a very built up bar, of one layer of protective tape, one layer of foam tape and then on thick layer of Benotto white. This is only one layer of protective tape and two layers of Benotto for the outer layer.

VintageSteelEU

Last missing piece for the Superator has arrived. Suntour Superbe track pedals, 288g per pair. This is the lightest pair of early 80's pedals I was able to find. I was thinking about matching the SR Royal ESL crankset with SR pedals from the era, but all SR pedals are around 100g heavier for the pair, so since the bicycle will be built with a mix of SR and Suntour Superbe components, I thought these won't be out of place. I'm hoping they are not too narrow, but that remains to be seen. I have a road version of these and they are comfy, so fingers crossed track ones will be ok. So now wall that I have to do is to double check all the components and the frame, clean and polish all the pieces that will require. And then put the bicycle together and see how it rides, hopefully sometime this month.

I was planning to open the pedals and check the bearings, but encountered some resistance and in the end decided to leave them be for now. They are perfectly smooth, but I like making sure there's no gunk anywhere where bearings are involved. For now just took the plates off and started the cleaning process. To be continued tomorrow, when I charge my rotary tool's battery.

Bianchigirll 

^ IKEA pedals!!

Classtime 

Cause of a clunk?
I replaced it with a 6400 113 spindle and now I think my 85 IM is feeling better. We’ll check on Monday’s commute.

noglider 

@Classtime, I'm sure that was the cause of your clunk. I had that kind of wear on my spindle from years of riding and no re-greasing.

VintageSteelEU

I'm not quite sure why Suntour made them this way. But I am grateful, because at least I can clean them properly.
From the early 80's they were making PL4000 (road, which I have a set of on another bicycle) and PL2000 (track). Both got rebranded with new Suntour logo and Superbe Pro or Superbe (like this set) and they were making them for at least nearly a decade (this set is dated January 1989). I'd rather have a set made in the early 80's as I'm doing a late 70's / early 80's weight weenie build, but the alternative was getting a contemporary set of pedals made by Genetic (whoever they are). Fairly similar, also removable cage and also quite a bit lighter at 240g. But I want to have as many of the components, as possible to be compatible with an early 80's build idea. Probably I won't be able to avoid seat post and saddle being from late 80's and early 90's, though search is ongoing. I've put aside Nitto 65 and San Marco Concor Light for this build for now.