Informal Reviews on Track Wheels
#201
Lapped 3x
So here's a bit of a perhaps unanswerable question...If all other elements are equal, who makes the fastest-rolling HUBS?
The follow-up to that is, has anyone tested track hubs fairly, eliminating variables and narrowing performance down to the hubs themselves?
I now have wheels with Mavic track hubs, Zipp track hubs, DA track hubs, FFWD track hubs and Onyx track hubs...curious to know which would actually roll the best----if all other elements were equal.
I bring this up, because in my experiences with road wheels, those with DA hubs seem to roll better/faster than anything else I've owned. Not standing up for DA as the best, but sharing empirical evidence (I generally seem to coast faster than most riders around me since switching to wheels with DA hubs. I didn't change anything else, so I'm thinking the hubs must be a factor.)
The follow-up to that is, has anyone tested track hubs fairly, eliminating variables and narrowing performance down to the hubs themselves?
I now have wheels with Mavic track hubs, Zipp track hubs, DA track hubs, FFWD track hubs and Onyx track hubs...curious to know which would actually roll the best----if all other elements were equal.
I bring this up, because in my experiences with road wheels, those with DA hubs seem to roll better/faster than anything else I've owned. Not standing up for DA as the best, but sharing empirical evidence (I generally seem to coast faster than most riders around me since switching to wheels with DA hubs. I didn't change anything else, so I'm thinking the hubs must be a factor.)
#202
Senior Member
I agree with Taras. I've never seen a study on track hubs particularly, but in general you just have a lot more adjustment that can be made (tuning) with cup/cone systems.
Experimenting with fill rate and lubrication choice is where the (albeit generally small relatively) gains can be made.
In cartridge bearings it's harder to tease out better friction but it can be done. The biggest contributor of drag is the seals. For a track specific wheel (that means, only on a clean surface and no rain/water to deal with) you can remove the inner/outer seal (or just the outer seal if you don't want to remove/service/replace bearings fairly regularly) and that should be the biggest single gain you can do. After that, again fill rate (and the specific type of grease/lubrication) is the next most likely place to see gains. In my experience, ~50% fill with Ceramic Speeds TT grease has been best (supported by the old frictionfacts document)
Experimenting with fill rate and lubrication choice is where the (albeit generally small relatively) gains can be made.
In cartridge bearings it's harder to tease out better friction but it can be done. The biggest contributor of drag is the seals. For a track specific wheel (that means, only on a clean surface and no rain/water to deal with) you can remove the inner/outer seal (or just the outer seal if you don't want to remove/service/replace bearings fairly regularly) and that should be the biggest single gain you can do. After that, again fill rate (and the specific type of grease/lubrication) is the next most likely place to see gains. In my experience, ~50% fill with Ceramic Speeds TT grease has been best (supported by the old frictionfacts document)
#203
Lapped 3x
Also, if tuning hubs that have cartridge bearings, remember that there are sealed, shielded, and unshielded variants in each size. Sealed has more dragthan shielded, which has more drag than unshielded. If ordering from a bearing wholesaler, you can also get "one side sealed", "one side sealed, one shielded", ...
You just have to do some digging through their catalogs to find exactly what you want. This is a good site to learn about different types and the nomenclature system in place to identify them.
https://www.astbearings.com/radial-ball-bearing-nomenclature-and-numbering-system.html
Pro Tip: when installing bearings, face the labelled side outward so that you can identify the bearing without having to remove it.
You just have to do some digging through their catalogs to find exactly what you want. This is a good site to learn about different types and the nomenclature system in place to identify them.
https://www.astbearings.com/radial-ball-bearing-nomenclature-and-numbering-system.html
Pro Tip: when installing bearings, face the labelled side outward so that you can identify the bearing without having to remove it.
Last edited by taras0000; 01-03-19 at 08:42 AM.
#204
Full Member
Looking for a review or experience with Miche Supertype SPX5 track wheelset please, anyone used them, tried them out, know someone that has used them and had some comments, thanks!
#205
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Hi guys, need some advice on what wheels I should get, my stock wheels miche pistard has a crack in the rim and need replacing.
I am about 90kg, new to velodrome racing, and planning on enter some events such as 250m and 500m TT, scratch and pursuit races. All my training and racing will be done indoor. My budget is 900usd max, I dont necessarily want to spend so much, but if it will make a big difference to my speed, I dont mind doing it.
The wheels I have in mind are:
Velocity Deep V with Formula Hubs. 209usd +100usd shipping (I live in Hong Kong)
Mavic Ellipse. 330usd Including Free Shipping.
FFWD F9T. 880usd Including Free Shipping.
I am leaning towards the first two options since they are much cheaper and from what I read expensive wheels are faster but not a huge difference that will affect the outcome in beginner races. I like the velocity wheelset since they used standard spokes and easier to repair etc. But the mavic is only 20 dollars more expensive and seems to offer better performance? What do you guys think I should get? And are there any wheelset that you think will be a good fit for me?
Thanks in advance
I am about 90kg, new to velodrome racing, and planning on enter some events such as 250m and 500m TT, scratch and pursuit races. All my training and racing will be done indoor. My budget is 900usd max, I dont necessarily want to spend so much, but if it will make a big difference to my speed, I dont mind doing it.
The wheels I have in mind are:
Velocity Deep V with Formula Hubs. 209usd +100usd shipping (I live in Hong Kong)
Mavic Ellipse. 330usd Including Free Shipping.
FFWD F9T. 880usd Including Free Shipping.
I am leaning towards the first two options since they are much cheaper and from what I read expensive wheels are faster but not a huge difference that will affect the outcome in beginner races. I like the velocity wheelset since they used standard spokes and easier to repair etc. But the mavic is only 20 dollars more expensive and seems to offer better performance? What do you guys think I should get? And are there any wheelset that you think will be a good fit for me?
Thanks in advance
#206
Senior Member
You could just replace the rim on your Miche Pistard wheel. I would say that wheelset is basically the same performance wise at the first two alternatives you listed. Take the money you saved and put it in a box until you have enough for a nice rear disc and fast front wheel.
#207
Senior Member
Yeah $900 in the uk would comfortably allow you to fix the rim and pick up a FFWD rear wheel second hand with plenty of cash to spare
#208
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You could just replace the rim on your Miche Pistard wheel. I would say that wheelset is basically the same performance wise at the first two alternatives you listed. Take the money you saved and put it in a box until you have enough for a nice rear disc and fast front wheel.
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#210
Senior Member
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#211
Senior Member
But clinchers work too.
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True. All the more reason to be a friendly approachable person at the track! Friends will lend wheels (cogs, chainrings, tools, etc.) to friends in need, I find. And really, I've had a tubie blow exactly once in more than 10 years of track racing (touch wood), so I don't feel the advantages of a quick-changing clincher really outweigh the safety benefits of tubulars.
But clinchers work too.
But clinchers work too.
#214
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#217
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#218
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A week later, I pick it up and they had taped it, “Because it was the same thing and so much easier.” I was pissed and never went back.
#219
Senior Member
Assert that you do not want them taped. I dropped my disc off at a shop in Portland and said several times, “I want the tire glued on.”
A week later, I pick it up and they had taped it, “Because it was the same thing and so much easier.” I was pissed and never went back.
A week later, I pick it up and they had taped it, “Because it was the same thing and so much easier.” I was pissed and never went back.
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#220
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It's something that I regret not learning to do early on. I think I was pretty skilled at fully maintaining all sorts of geared, single speed, or track bikes...except for 2 things: Building wheels and gluing tubulars.
On a related note: I was in a conversation with a gentleman who runs a tennis center in the Atlanta area and were talking about how difficult (or not) stringing racquets is. (back story: His 2 sons went to D1 colleges on tennis scholarships.) He's like, "When my boys were poppin' strings every week, I was like, 'nooooo. I'm not doing it and I'm certainly not gonna pay someone to do it.', I taught them how to string their own racquets when they were 10 years old...they strung mine, too "
Last edited by carleton; 11-26-19 at 07:28 AM.
#221
Senior Member
the only small thing I'd add to the good advice above is whether you pay to have it done, or you diy it off youtube videos... keep in mind that a lot of mechanics use different amounts/styles of gluing.
If you are diy'ing, I'd start on the cautious side of more is better. If you are having a shop do it, explain that it's for track and they REALLY need a good bond.
I've glued a lot of tires for Time Trials on the road that I would NEVER use on a track.
I have to cut my old tires off... and if I thought I could get away with it without ruining the rim, I'd epoxy my tires on
If you are diy'ing, I'd start on the cautious side of more is better. If you are having a shop do it, explain that it's for track and they REALLY need a good bond.
I've glued a lot of tires for Time Trials on the road that I would NEVER use on a track.
I have to cut my old tires off... and if I thought I could get away with it without ruining the rim, I'd epoxy my tires on
#222
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Assert that you do not want them taped. I dropped my disc off at a shop in Portland and said several times, “I want the tire glued on.”
A week later, I pick it up and they had taped it, “Because it was the same thing and so much easier.” I was pissed and never went back.
A week later, I pick it up and they had taped it, “Because it was the same thing and so much easier.” I was pissed and never went back.
the only small thing I'd add to the good advice above is whether you pay to have it done, or you diy it off youtube videos... keep in mind that a lot of mechanics use different amounts/styles of gluing.
If you are diy'ing, I'd start on the cautious side of more is better. If you are having a shop do it, explain that it's for track and they REALLY need a good bond.
I've glued a lot of tires for Time Trials on the road that I would NEVER use on a track.
I have to cut my old tires off... and if I thought I could get away with it without ruining the rim, I'd epoxy my tires on
If you are diy'ing, I'd start on the cautious side of more is better. If you are having a shop do it, explain that it's for track and they REALLY need a good bond.
I've glued a lot of tires for Time Trials on the road that I would NEVER use on a track.
I have to cut my old tires off... and if I thought I could get away with it without ruining the rim, I'd epoxy my tires on
I am going to learn how to do it myself next time I change the tires
#223
Newbie
fwiw, I was speaking to my coach the other day about glue and he said just get some tufo tape and be done with it - has seen a taped tandem front wheel puncture at 70kph, didn't roll the tyre and that was good enough for him! So far my tubs have not fallen off...
Has anyone experience of walker brothers wheels? supposedly they test fast but people without direct experience of them I've spoken too have mentioned fragile and flex as weak points? (I'm 76kg mid 11's f200 on spokes so maybe flex is not so much an issue). thanks
Has anyone experience of walker brothers wheels? supposedly they test fast but people without direct experience of them I've spoken too have mentioned fragile and flex as weak points? (I'm 76kg mid 11's f200 on spokes so maybe flex is not so much an issue). thanks
#224
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I've heard negatives on the tape at the track, but I've seen people riding taped on tubulars at fairly high speeds around corners and not roll a tire. I've done dozens of tape jobs, after the tufo tape came out I did as many with the tape as without and never had a customer roll a tire.(I've probably only done about 70-80 wheelsets, just not that high a demand) And didn't find it any easier to remove the tire. Only thing I can really think is that when gluing the glue is applied to the tire, and allowed to set before more glue is added, the glue does soak into the cloth strip and perhaps helps with adhesion of the strip to the tire. I have, when peeling off an old tire had the cloth strip come off with the tape, but if this is the case pregluing the tire would be an easy solution. What I like best about the tape is that the tires are never prestretched, which means they're harder to get on the rim and more likely to smear the glue onto the opposing side of the rim, something that's never happened with tape and why I've liked it best. Perhaps someone with more knowledge can chime in.
#225
Senior Member
I've always used glue, and my one experience with tape was when I bought a wheel that had been taped. Tire came off frighteningly easy, as in almost no effort at all. I will never use tape. I know how to glue and it's not that difficult. Just my experience.