scutchin

Now that I have a smart trainer (Zwift Hub), I am really loving knowing my power output so I'm thinking of getting some power pedals. I like the idea of the Favero Assiona DUO-Shi Pedal Axis, which I can use with my Ultegra pedals, but can I also use with SPD-SL on the XC bike?

I usually ride with flats on the mtb, but have my first ever XC race in April and think I might go clipless. I have single-sided pedals already that I would like to use to save some cash, if possible.

Any that will do both that you know of?

Power meter axis: https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

My SPD-SL pedals: https://www.rei.com/product/130015/s...-spd-sl-pedals

My SPD single sided pedals: https://www.rei.com/product/145394/s...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

Polaris OBark

Well, the good news is that they are heavier, more fragile, have greater stack height, and cost 10X more than most pedals.

One of the good things about having a trainer is you can monitor your power improvement with the equipment you already have.

If the money is burning a hole in your wallet, help sponsor a high school XC mountain bike team.

Polaris OBark

Just kidding. Buy the red ones.

scutchin

Day drinking, are we?

Maelochs

Give me some power pedals, and I will sell you some power pedals. Entrepreneurial spirit at its finest.

PeteHski

Are you asking if you can use your Ultegra pedals on your XC bike? Well you can, but the slightest bit of mud will make them impossible to clip into.

I don't know of any power meter pedals that are good for both road and mtb. You might be better off looking at single sided crank power meters for both bikes as they are cheaper and more reliable. Personally I don't bother measuring power on my mountain bike, but I find it very useful on my road bikes.

scutchin

I'm asking if that "axis" will fit both SPD and SPD-SL, or if there are ones out there that would do that.

Sorry that I wasn't clear.

PeteHski

Ah I see. No idea on that sorry. I got confused when you referred to SPD-SL on your XC bike.

Jughed

This.

I have a set of Garmin road power meter pedals - they were a gift. They are flat awesome, but I wouldn't pay the price for them... nor will I use them offroad on my CX bike.

If I was going to do it - both bikes would get a single crank arm power meter.

blacknbluebikes 

Are you sure you need 2 sided power measurement? I'm pretty happy with the one-side Garmin RS100. Obtained at a much more attractive price than MSRP, compatible with everything I already have, easy to move from bike-to-bike.

Barry2 

The pedal body of the Garmin Rally power pedals can be swapped to change pedal/clip types.
Although I don't know that it is intended for "regular swaps" and the alternate bodies aren't cheap (think $250).

But you did ask IF it could be done, and not IF ECONOMICALLY.

8-)

All the best
Barry

terrymorse 

Well, let's put some numbers next to those observations.

The Assioma Favero pedal uses a pedal body made by Xpedo. So let's compare these pedals:

Weight Per Pedal: Favero 151g, Xpedo 105g (weight penalty 46g)

Fragile: no numbers, but I did ground my Favero pedal on a curb, and it continued to work fine

Greater Stack Height: No difference (same pedal body, duh)

Cost: Assioma UNO $493, Xpedo Thrust $195 (cost penalty $297 -- aka "not 10X")

And to state the obvious:

Power Sensing: Assioma YES, Xpedo NO

icemilkcoffee 

Are you looking for power meter SPD pedals? Just make sure you are sitting down first:
https://powermetercity.com/product/s...r-meter-pedal/

Koyote

That's hardly the only option, and certainly not the most economical.

scutchin

I probably don't need double, but I'm still rehabbing from an accident (car - got rear ended so back/sciatica is jacked up) and knowing power difference may be useful.

Jughed

It's useful and annoying at the same time.

I'm still recovering from my bike crash over 1 year ago - my power is 46-47%L, 53-54%R. There is nothing I can do to fix it... so far. My rides are fine, I don't notice it - but the numbers are always buzzing around in my head.

jaxgtr

Another option would be a crank based, like Quarq , then you could get both sides and not have to deal with specific pedals.

Jimriides

No matter what you end up doing, start riding any Clipless now. It will take 6 weeks for your Legs and Brain to change and adapt. There are certain things about Clipless that you never do, and it has to be second nature by the time you race. Then there is your Cadecence, it takes a while to lay down power on each stroke, all the way around. It is not a natural movement. Plus you need to get used to walking in those damn shoes.

Polaris OBark

The Garmin ones are interchangeable from SPD to SPD-SL, but it would require purchase of the conversion kit. DC Rainmaker has an extensive review of them, which include this aspect.

Jrasero

Just picked up some Favero Assioma Duo Shi power meter pedals from Chain reaction for $540 shipped. Going to use my existing Shimano 105 PD-R7000. I bought these on a whim when someone mentioned how they were such a great value since they are dual power meter for less than you would pay for the Garmin Rally RS1000, however I am a tad worried the Q-factor will be too big since I am a smaller rider. Granted some reviews have said this was a deal breaker while other ones said Q-Factor is either overrated or simply doesn't matter. I will report back on how it goes. Worse comes to worse I will have to sell and just try and get some Rally pedals

chaadster

scutchin while I believe it has been said, No, the SPD-SL pedal axle is different from the SPD pedal axle, so Assioma Duo-SHI would not allow you to get power with SPD pedal bodies.

Another option, if you’re not wed to SPD-SL, is to to get the regular Assioma Duo and use the Look-style 3-bolt cleats that come with them, because this would allow you to run Xpedo CXR mountain pedal bodies on the Assioma Duo axles, an easy swap. CXR are SPD compatible, so you could use your existing MTB shoes/cleats.

It’s a hack, but works, and CXR pedals are only $80 or so. I did have to shave down an inboard lug on each shoe in order to avoid contact with the pedal “pod,” but once I did, had no problems and the body swaps are quick, particularly if you keep the CXRs ready to go with their stock axles removed; it’s only one screwed on dust cover (4mm Allen) and one hex nut (6mm?) per pedal.

All that said, I did find doing the swap a hassle, just not the kind of thing I wanted to deal with as I was trying to head out for a ride, so convenience is something you may want to consider when deciding a course of action.