Somehow getting cable-stop away from the frame
#1
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Somehow getting cable-stop away from the frame
hello -
i received some advice on this forum a couple of years ago about replacing the very hard-to-find Peugeot front deraileur with a simplex deraileur. the old Peugeot front derailer had something of a "built-in" cable-stop.
as you can see in this picture (SORRY IT APPEARS I CANNOT ATTACH A PICTURE YET), the derailleur cable is really being pulled at something like a 30-degree angle. all the cable-stops i have found assume the derailer cable arm is very close to the frame, which in this situation is nowhere close. this actually works, sort of. but i don't like the idea of a cable being pulled like that.
is there some way to somehow get the cable-stop a bit further away from the frame, like maybe at least an inch? i was tempted to try to fabricate something myself, but stuff like that never seems to turn out well for me.
the picture is where the cable-stop is really right against the frame, and the cable is pulled at a 30-degree angle. is there any way i can get special clearance to post the picture? it would be a lot easier to explain it that way.
i received some advice on this forum a couple of years ago about replacing the very hard-to-find Peugeot front deraileur with a simplex deraileur. the old Peugeot front derailer had something of a "built-in" cable-stop.
as you can see in this picture (SORRY IT APPEARS I CANNOT ATTACH A PICTURE YET), the derailleur cable is really being pulled at something like a 30-degree angle. all the cable-stops i have found assume the derailer cable arm is very close to the frame, which in this situation is nowhere close. this actually works, sort of. but i don't like the idea of a cable being pulled like that.
is there some way to somehow get the cable-stop a bit further away from the frame, like maybe at least an inch? i was tempted to try to fabricate something myself, but stuff like that never seems to turn out well for me.
the picture is where the cable-stop is really right against the frame, and the cable is pulled at a 30-degree angle. is there any way i can get special clearance to post the picture? it would be a lot easier to explain it that way.
#2
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is there interference with the frame & cable?
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#3
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no interference, but i figure pulling at a 30-degree angle is adding unnecessary friction, and also wearing out the cable-housing end and probably the cable itself.
if i could email a picture to somebody with higher privilege, they could post the picture here?
if i could email a picture to somebody with higher privilege, they could post the picture here?
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i'm not sure of a product to be effective at achieving your goal, but imo, the typical amount of use for a front der is most likely low. To which, it wouldn't warrant a smoother transition. It will have a shorter cable life, but again, small fish per the amount it is likely used.
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#6
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This cable guide is really bizarre to me. Definitely the wrong guide for that front derailleur. What does it look like in full? Need an expanded view.
Search catalog pics of your particular bicycle to see what it should look like.
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It appears that the cable housing is routed under the bottom bracket and a the cable (housing) stop is attached to the seat tube.
Most road bikes have a cable (housing) stop at the head tube or down tube, for older down tube shifter bikes. The bare cable(s) is routed under the bottom bracket using a cable guide. The angle is probable a less severe angle coming from just behind the bottom bracket.
You fix is to mount a guide to the bottom bracket shell to route the bare cable. I think there are older clamp-on guides that accomplish the same thing.
If by chance the cable is coming down from the top tube and the housing is looped to work with a bottom pull FD, you should change the FD.
John
Most road bikes have a cable (housing) stop at the head tube or down tube, for older down tube shifter bikes. The bare cable(s) is routed under the bottom bracket using a cable guide. The angle is probable a less severe angle coming from just behind the bottom bracket.
You fix is to mount a guide to the bottom bracket shell to route the bare cable. I think there are older clamp-on guides that accomplish the same thing.
If by chance the cable is coming down from the top tube and the housing is looped to work with a bottom pull FD, you should change the FD.
John
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In addition to the strange cable stop problem, the cable is not attached correctly to the derailleur:
Here are the Shimano instructions, note the position of the cable:
As others have mentioned above, the ideal fix (if possible) is to replace that cable stop with a cable guide that mounts on the bottom bracket:
Shimano Bottom Bracket Cable Guide SM-SP17
I have one of these mounted on my bottom bracket, held in place only by cyanoacrylate glue (carbon frame). Works fine.
Here are the Shimano instructions, note the position of the cable:
As others have mentioned above, the ideal fix (if possible) is to replace that cable stop with a cable guide that mounts on the bottom bracket:
Shimano Bottom Bracket Cable Guide SM-SP17
I have one of these mounted on my bottom bracket, held in place only by cyanoacrylate glue (carbon frame). Works fine.
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#9
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this is a VERY INTERESTING idea to use the "Shimano-Bottom-Bracket-Cable" - thank you so much for the suggestion. what would happen with the cable housing? is there a cable-stop on the "Shimano-Bottom-Bracket-Cable" ?
i had to look at an installation video to determine it goes underneath the crank, but i guess i should have known that.
i had to look at an installation video to determine it goes underneath the crank, but i guess i should have known that.
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Okay, that's definitely the wrong cable guide for your seat tube and the wrong front derailleur as well.
The short-term solution is to move the cable guide way down the seat tube close to or directly on top of the bottom bracket shell, so that angle to the front derailleur isn't as steep. You will need to trim the housing to fit.
The long-term solution is to find a front derailleur with a housing stop like those that Suntour is known for. Then you can remove that ridiculous cable guide from the seat tube altogether.
The short-term solution is to move the cable guide way down the seat tube close to or directly on top of the bottom bracket shell, so that angle to the front derailleur isn't as steep. You will need to trim the housing to fit.
The long-term solution is to find a front derailleur with a housing stop like those that Suntour is known for. Then you can remove that ridiculous cable guide from the seat tube altogether.
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#11
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The long-term solution is to find a front derailleur with a housing stop like those that Suntour is known for.
Then you can remove that ridiculous cable guide from the seat tube altogether.
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#13
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You can also get clamp on cable guides that fit just above the bottom bracket.
No need for the cable housing. You will need a cable stop near the rear derailleur, and probably on top of the chainstay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255463602766
Several brands should have made them.
No need for the cable housing. You will need a cable stop near the rear derailleur, and probably on top of the chainstay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255463602766
Several brands should have made them.
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Personally, I would go here and ask for a good, all-aluminum Suntour fd with housing stop, like a V series, Blueline, Cyclone, etc:
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...t-5-a-205.html
Using an additional cable guide for the front derailleur or routing the cable under the bb is a kludge.
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#18
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If the kickstand doesn’t completely block that space, you could just run a bit of cable housing from that housing stop on the lower downtube and under the BB and just long enough to keep the cable from rubbing the BB. Then the cable can run free and straight up to the current derailleur attachment. But there may not be room.
Otto
Otto
#19
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#20
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However, I get that having a nice looking, clean, well-maintained bike isn't for everyone.
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I've never bought a nos fd. Have you seen my bikes?
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I don't remember if I've seen your bikes, but the way you say that, not sure if I want to...Do they look like crap?
Last edited by smd4; 08-16-22 at 09:04 AM.
#23
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It's not a Cinelli Super Corsa.
You can decide. Here are three of them:
https://www.bikeforums.net/22226958-post2979.html
The other two are in similar condition. I've refurbished about 70 that look/operate the same. Never bought a nos fd.
I don't remember if I've seen your bikes, but the way you say that, not sure if I want to...Do they look like crap?
https://www.bikeforums.net/22226958-post2979.html
The other two are in similar condition. I've refurbished about 70 that look/operate the same. Never bought a nos fd.
#24
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It's not a Cinelli Super Corsa.
You can decide. Here are three of them:
https://www.bikeforums.net/22226958-post2979.html
The other two are in similar condition. I've refurbished about 70 that look/operate the same. Never bought a nos fd.
You can decide. Here are three of them:
https://www.bikeforums.net/22226958-post2979.html
The other two are in similar condition. I've refurbished about 70 that look/operate the same. Never bought a nos fd.
#25
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for the record, i still like my idea (yes i am stubborn) i might send the old parts to a machine-shop guy and let him come up with a cable stop that is "offset" for Shimano.
and next up, to remove a pedal and take it into an REI store, see about clip-in shoes/pedals, and hopefully without having to redo the pedal threads.
EDIT: bought the one that SurferRosa found, not necessarily recommending that specific one. but it does seem to work. still, it seems a bit odd that the only derailleurs that work are used and i cannot somehow get a new Shimano to work for me. it will be interesting to see if the machine shop guy has any ideas.
Last edited by edwardsmarkf; 09-15-22 at 06:26 PM.