mtbiker1069

So, I had the opportunity to pick up a Gitane 1972ish year model that was in great shape. You guys actually helped me make up my mind that it was a good deal.. Which I do appreciate!

However, being new to road bikes, and vintage bikes a few surprises have popped up that have been a bit frustrating. Tubular tires was the 1st... I honestly had no idea those even existed until I bought this bike. I've always mountain bikes and commuted on a mountain bike Expensive surprise there...

I got the BB re packed, new brake pads, wheels trued and the new tires put on. On my second ride one of the spokes on the rear wheel pulled out of the rim. Come to find out I'm to heavy for the "light" racing wheels that are on this thing. Dumb mistake on my part, yes I know.

So, I ordered a new Velocity Chucker 700c wheel and started to try and get teh cassette off so I could have the original hub laced up to the new rim. 2 bike shops later, my freewheel is still seized onto the hub and the the freewheel has now been stripped and short of cutting it off with some type of a grinder, probably isn't going to come off.

Sorry, had to vent a little...

My question is this. I've got my new rim, and need to get a hub and free wheel to have the wheel built. I want to make sure that I order the right parts so I don't have any more surprises.

I'm thinking of purchasing a 126mm Quando Thread-on Freewheel Hub from Harris Cyclerly and the SunRace 5-speed 14-28t Thread-on Freewheel

https://harriscyclery.net/product/qua...eleas-2544.htm
https://harriscyclery.net/product/sun...wheel-3458.htm

Then I'll take it all to my LBS and have them lace it all up. Can you all think of any surprises I might run into with that setup?

Or, can I go with a 130mm hub that will allow me to use more modern Cassettee in 6 or 7 speeds? Something like this?

https://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...wheel-2694.htm
https://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...-type-2517.htm

The shifters on this bike are Suntour Superbee friction shifters on the downtube.

I'm leaning toward the more modern route, but am afraid of going that direction based on my limited vintage knowledge and the surprises that keep popping up on this bike.

Thanks you all for your help!
Mark

LeicaLad 

Well, happily, I can claim innocence of the original thread.

That said, I own two 1971 Gitanes, so think I can offer a few tidbits. I have no doubt that others will chime in.

First: French bikes, in general. French threads and French size everything. Stems, headsets, bottom brackets, seat posts, etc. Will be different from "ordinary."

Wheels. You probably should have been advised to change out the tubulars, as these are great for lightweight racer guys, or riders very experienced with them. The strength of the wheel is probably more related to their condition after 35 years. If a spoke pulled from the rim, your weight was only a contributing factor to when, not if.

Rear wheel. If these are original or near original wheels, your rear triangle is 120mm wide. This means 5-speed, or 6-speed Suntour Ultra only.

Your LBS can spread the rear to 126mm, which is convenient. I don't recommend spreading to 130mm. You don't want to watch them do this.

Thus, I think you should pass on any 130mm rear wheel options.

IF you spread to 126mm, you have lots of options. A complete pre-built wheel is probably the cheapest way to get up on the road. Warehouse distributors have options across a price range. I'm quite fond of the Velo-Orange wheels.

There ARE 120mm rear wheel options, but these are limited. The spread to 126mm opens up 7-speed freewheels.

Not sure how the bike shops "stripped" your freewheel. They can be tough to dislodge, but I suspect some young and inexperienced kid tried something stupid. I say they owe you, but good luck on that.

So. It appears you are in for a new wheel set and a new freewheel (Harris or Niagara have the Shimano freewheels for under $20.) There are 126mm freehubs, but that opens another can of worms IF you are not familiar with them.

Otherwise, good luck.

Either post the link to your earlier thread, or post lots and lots of new photos.

Cheers.

rootboy 

As an owner of a 1972 Gitane, I can't add anything to the excellent post above, other than to say good luck with your new French bike.
All the tribulations will be worth it.

mtbiker1069

What kind of can of worms?

Heres lots of pics of the bike...

https://picasaweb.google.com/1118870...eat=directlink

Dave Mayer

So your rear stays are 126mm? Really? The stays on my 1973 Gitane TdF were 120mm until I had them spread.

Too heavy for tubular rims? Depends on the rim. With a 36 hole Mavic GP4 rim, I can't see a weight limit.

So, assuming that your stays are somehow 126mm, and if you are 'heavy' then you don't want a freewheel hub. Too much unsupported axle on the drive side. I suggest a cassette hub.

My only experience with Quando hubs was when I got a 30 pound box of them in a complicated parts swap with a local shop. They turned out to be so poorly made (poor finish, poor setup, stiff and a crappy cartridge bearing design) that I simply ended up giving them away to a colleague. Who said that he ended up dumping them into the ocean off of the local peir. Maybe they were useful in creating fish habitat.

I suggest going to a 7-speed Shimano Hyperglide compatible cassette hub (not Uniglide). These are cheap - like $20 for a old Shimano DX or LX or XT, 105 etc. Do NOT get a older Dura-Ace cassette hub for compatibility reasons.

These older Hyperglide cassette hubs may not accept a 11-tooth cassette cog, but the 11 and 12-tooth cogs are worthless anyway. Stay with a 13-28 HG90 casstte that should last a long long time. Finally, get a Hyperglide 7/8 speed chain and cut to size. Buy the cheap ones and replace often. I go through 4 per year.

mtbiker1069

Well, good point. I'm going to measure them to make sure I guess..

These weren't Mavic Rim's.. They are Fiamme Ergal's??? They are super light.. haha..

rootboy 

Fiamme Ergals? I have heard that those were known to fail now and again. Very lightweight rims. Still, with a properly laced and tensioned wheel, I think it's odd a spoke pulled loose from the rims. You're not like ....a grizzly bear, are you?

mtbiker1069

HAHA.. Well, yeah, kinda.. 290lbs...

rootboy 

Ah. Well, yes, those Ergals were very light. I'm a bean pole and though I have a set I'm even a bit leery to lace them to anything. Say, did the spoke and nipple pull the eyelet/ferrule right out of the rim?

Dave Mayer

Ergals... These are about the lightest alu rims ever. I weight 160 and can't ride them on the rear wheel. Even on the front they are marginal. So you'll need some heavy duty wheels with 36 spokes. Plus beefier tires. Fortunately your frame should allow the use of 28mm clinchers.

Due to your mass, forget freewheel hubs for my reasons above.

Your bike is a clone of mine, except yours is in almost new condition. I bought mine new in 1973 and it is still running with who knows how many tens of thousands of miles on it. This is a lovely bike well worth upgrading.

I suggest spreading the stays to 126mm. This will allow the use of 7-speed cogsets.

Check on what kind of derailleur hanger is on your frame. Does it say 'Simplex'? Report back - this is important.

mtbiker1069

Yes sir, it did. I was doing about 30 down a hill when it pulled...

jeirvine 

I sound like a broken record on this, but see if there's a bike co-op near you. There, you can get help to build your own wheels, or you may even find some decent ones for cheap. My co-op in Baltimore always has a few 27" and 700" used but checked out wheels for under $20 a pop.

rootboy 

Yikes! Thank goodness only one spoke hole failed.

Say, just my 2 cents on wheels. I don't think you mentioned which Gitane model you have. I found my Gitane TdF with 27 inch wheels on it. Almost zero clearance between the tire and fork crown. But that model was notoriously "tight". Your frame may accommodate 27 inchers, but I'd stick with 700c clinchers.

mtbiker1069

So your suggesting something like this?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-NOS-...item232394b27d

wrk101

+1 Think used. I see nice used wheelsets a lot. In several hundreds of bikes rebuilt over the last several years (many that included wheel replacement), I have yet to have bought a single new wheel (I am kind of stubborn AND thrifty). I have at least a year's supply of wheels on hand, bought two sets this week off the local C/L.

For the price of that hub above, I usually can find a nice wheelset. And most of the used wheelsets come with cassettes (or freewheels), tires, tubes, QR levers, etc.

mtbiker1069

After talking you you all I'm really doubting doing anything or ordering anything for this bike without posting to 1st. I've waisted enough money so far... So sorry for all the questions...

Will the Velocity Chukker Rim's work with this bike?

https://www.velocityusa.com/default.asp?contentID=700

canyoneagle

Nice looking bike with some tasteful updates (brake levers, saddle).

I'd also suggest getting a new wheel set. The Ergals were great rims, but wayyyy too lightweight for a larger rider.
As far as rear spacing, 126 or 130 for sure. 130 would provide more options for a cassette, but would be a bit dicier to have done properly without compromising the frame.

+1 on the Velo Orange hubs, rims and/or wheelsets, -1 on more modern anodized rims for that bike, unless you shop for NOS or lightly used vintage.

Earlier frames tend to allow bigger tires than their more modern counterparts. I highly recommend going with a 28-30mm tire if you can fit them, given your size.

Oh, also, those little levers on your brakes are quick releases that open the brake calipers a bit to ease wheel removal and installation. It appears that these are open. Simply flip the levers down and you'll see the calipers close a bit. This is how you keep them for riding. You may already know this, but hey, better safe than sorry

Good luck with whatever you do - it is a really nice bike and I think you'll enjoy it.

ColonelJLloyd 

700c Velocity Chukkers will work with your frame. How many spoke holes are in the rim you purchased?

canyoneagle

Sure, they'll work. The tradeoff is largely aesthetic - the chukker is a deep vee rim, which is a more modern phenomenon and would be a bit of a clash with that bike IMO. That said, it's a fine rim and would be strong.

Dave Mayer

You are on the right track.. Except you should want 36 spokes, especially on the rear. The saying goes: if you have the same number of spokes on the front and rear wheels, then you either have too many spokes on the front, or too few on the rear.

And I cannot tell from the auction pictures if this hub is Hyperglide cassette compatible. This may be deliberate. On HG cassettes, one of the splines on the freehub is narrower to accept the newer generation cassettes. A lot of the older Shimano cassette hubs on sale in shops or on Ebay are the older Uniglide standard (all of the splines the same). These are basically worthless. You want Hyperglide compatible.

Plus this hub is too expensive. I suggest your local bike Co-op.

Don't worry if the hub is spaced for 126, 130 or 135mm, as long as the freehub is 7-speeds, and is genuine Shimano and it is Hyperglide compatible.

It can be respaced using a hacksaw to cut off the suplus axle, and a few minutes to subtract axle spacers. Again, try your local Co-op, and seek out the most experienced guys or girls. Friends of mine have taken this puzzle to their local bike shops, and the pimply mechanics behind the counter have screwed it up every single time. The most common foul-up being not cutting a axle designed for 135mm stays when inserting into a respaced 126mm hub. Likely that most of them had never serviced a hub before.

mtbiker1069

Noted. Thanks. The Velocity rims I ordered are 700c..

mtbiker1069

36 holes.

canyoneagle

LOL - I've never heard that one before. I personally stick with 36/36 (3x on both) whenever possible. I'd imagine our OP would find 36 3 cross up front to be the best route (barring a set of tandem wheels), no?

mtbiker1069

No, it says "Brev. Campagnolo".


Sorry about attaching two images. Can't figure out how to get one of them off...

Road Fan

Seeing as how the LBS could not remove a freewheel without damaging it, I WOULD NOT let them do a 130 mm cold set, and possibly not a 126 mm cold set. A good mechanic who proceeds with care can do it, but do they have one?

If you go with a 126 cold set and a 126 wheel, the cautions about axle breakage are not very significant. It was when the freewheel design was pushed to 130 that problems started to appear. You don't need to go to a 126 cassette hub. I don't think there are any pitfalls, but you said you are tired of surprises. If you're going to ride the bike like a road bike and not like a MTB, bomber, or trials bike, 126 freewheel should be ok. In days gone by many full-grown adults toured with fully loaded bikes on such hubs.

If you can ride in a dropped bar position on rough pavement that would help reduce the weight on the rear wheel when some pounding does happen.

On that frame you can probably go with 700c x 28 mm Paselas or Gatorskins, and both are pretty good tires for carrying load. You might not have enough room for 32 mm Paselas, but it is worth a try.