Nishiki Serial Number Database
#2426
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,223
Mentioned: 654 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4722 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,039 Times
in
1,877 Posts
However, you can increase your confidence from frame characteristics. While there's no set rule, here are some general guidelines
1973: lugged construction, with traditional fork crown, long horizontal rear dropouts with 120mm spacing and little if any braze-ons. 120mm rear dropout spacing.
1983: lugged construction with traditional fork crown and short rear dropouts with 126mm spacing. Typical braze-ons would be top tube cable tunnels, water bottle bosses and down tube shift lever bosses.
1993: TIG welded construction with a unicrown fork and vertical rear dropouts with 126mm or 130mm rear spacing. Typical braze-ons per 1983 but likely with two sets of bottle bosses and a pump peg on the back on the head tube and possibly a front derailleur hanger.
Edit: I saw the photos of the seat cluster and head tube in your gallery album. The lugged construction, embossed stay caps and top tube cable tunnels point to 1983 manufacture. .
Last edited by T-Mar; 07-19-21 at 04:03 PM.
#2427
Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2021
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
It's a European market model manufactured by Kawamura of Japan and almost certainly built in 1983, which would make it a 1983 or 1984 model. Kawamura wasn't using an alpha character for the year in 1973, at least not in the North American markets, so I assume it was the same for Europe. By 1993 the brand had been sold to Derby Cycles and manufacturing had largely moved away from Kawamura, to less other manufacturers.
However, you can increase your confidence from frame characteristics. While there's no set rule, here are some general guidelines
1973: lugged construction, with traditional fork crown, long horizontal rear dropouts with 120mm spacing and little if any braze-ons. 120mm rear dropout spacing.
1983: lugged construction with traditional fork crown and short rear dropouts with 126mm spacing. Typical braze-ons would be top tube cable tunnels, water bottle bosses and down tube shift lever bosses.
1993: TIG welded construction with a unicrown fork and vertical rear dropouts with 126mm or 130mm rear spacing. Typical braze-ons per 1983 but likely with two sets of bottle bosses and a pump peg on the back on the head tube and possibly a front derailleur hanger.
Edit: I saw the photos of the seat cluster and head tube in your gallery album. The lugged construction, embossed stay caps and top tube cable tunnels point to 1983 manufacture. .
However, you can increase your confidence from frame characteristics. While there's no set rule, here are some general guidelines
1973: lugged construction, with traditional fork crown, long horizontal rear dropouts with 120mm spacing and little if any braze-ons. 120mm rear dropout spacing.
1983: lugged construction with traditional fork crown and short rear dropouts with 126mm spacing. Typical braze-ons would be top tube cable tunnels, water bottle bosses and down tube shift lever bosses.
1993: TIG welded construction with a unicrown fork and vertical rear dropouts with 126mm or 130mm rear spacing. Typical braze-ons per 1983 but likely with two sets of bottle bosses and a pump peg on the back on the head tube and possibly a front derailleur hanger.
Edit: I saw the photos of the seat cluster and head tube in your gallery album. The lugged construction, embossed stay caps and top tube cable tunnels point to 1983 manufacture. .
#2428
Senior Member
Can anyone identify the model of this 1980 Nishiki mixte? I can not find a catalog from that year. It has a chromoly frame so I assume it was their top-of-the-line model, if they had more than one. The serial number is KJxxxxx which I decode as USA, 1980.
#2429
Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I
It's a European market model manufactured by Kawamura of Japan and almost certainly built in 1983, which would make it a 1983 or 1984 model. Kawamura wasn't using an alpha character for the year in 1973, at least not in the North American markets, so I assume it was the same for Europe. By 1993 the brand had been sold to Derby Cycles and manufacturing had largely moved away from Kawamura, to less other manufacturers.
However, you can increase your confidence from frame characteristics. While there's no set rule, here are some general guidelines
1973: lugged construction, with traditional fork crown, long horizontal rear dropouts with 120mm spacing and little if any braze-ons. 120mm rear dropout spacing.
1983: lugged construction with traditional fork crown and short rear dropouts with 126mm spacing. Typical braze-ons would be top tube cable tunnels, water bottle bosses and down tube shift lever bosses.
1993: TIG welded construction with a unicrown fork and vertical rear dropouts with 126mm or 130mm rear spacing. Typical braze-ons per 1983 but likely with two sets of bottle bosses and a pump peg on the back on the head tube and possibly a front derailleur hanger.
Edit: I saw the photos of the seat cluster and head tube in your gallery album. The lugged construction, embossed stay caps and top tube cable tunnels point to 1983 manufacture. .
However, you can increase your confidence from frame characteristics. While there's no set rule, here are some general guidelines
1973: lugged construction, with traditional fork crown, long horizontal rear dropouts with 120mm spacing and little if any braze-ons. 120mm rear dropout spacing.
1983: lugged construction with traditional fork crown and short rear dropouts with 126mm spacing. Typical braze-ons would be top tube cable tunnels, water bottle bosses and down tube shift lever bosses.
1993: TIG welded construction with a unicrown fork and vertical rear dropouts with 126mm or 130mm rear spacing. Typical braze-ons per 1983 but likely with two sets of bottle bosses and a pump peg on the back on the head tube and possibly a front derailleur hanger.
Edit: I saw the photos of the seat cluster and head tube in your gallery album. The lugged construction, embossed stay caps and top tube cable tunnels point to 1983 manufacture. .
#2430
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,223
Mentioned: 654 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4722 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,039 Times
in
1,877 Posts
This is not high end. Nishiki did not have mixtes above very low mid-range during this era. Based on the serial number it is a 1980-1981 model, manufactured in 1980. During this period the CrMo models typically had chrome plating on the forks. If it is CrMo, it would appear to plain gauge and only for the main triangle, as the fork dropouts appear to be stamped. The derailleurs and brakes are mixed. Based on the CrMo tubing, crankset and what appears to be a SunTour Vx front derailleur, my leading candidates would be either an Olympic 12 or Royale, which would place it upper entry level to very low mid-range.
#2431
Senior Member
This is not high end. Nishiki did not have mixtes above very low mid-range during this era. Based on the serial number it is a 1980-1981 model, manufactured in 1980. During this period the CrMo models typically had chrome plating on the forks. If it is CrMo, it would appear to plain gauge and only for the main triangle, as the fork dropouts appear to be stamped. The derailleurs and brakes are mixed. Based on the CrMo tubing, crankset and what appears to be a SunTour Vx front derailleur, my leading candidates would be either an Olympic 12 or Royale, which would place it upper entry level to very low mid-range.
haha, I'm used to restoring gas-pipe Peugeot UO-18's with heavy all steel cottered-cranks and wheels. I've done over a dozen of them. To me anything with alloy parts (eg wheels, cotterless cranks) is good, and with chro-moly frame is great! I don't rate mixtes like normal road bikes, as I have only seen fairly low-end ones, even Japanese, with the exception of this Nishiki.
Last edited by sunburst; 07-29-21 at 10:49 AM.
#2432
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Does anyone have any insight on the pedals offered on these bikes? My '83 Rally has some KKT's, but I don't believe they're original. Any Rally owners that care to share?
I'm a few posts away from being able to post pictures....
I'm a few posts away from being able to post pictures....
#2436
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,223
Mentioned: 654 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4722 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,039 Times
in
1,877 Posts
#2437
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
thanks for reposting my pictures T-Mar, I plan on starting a new thread to figure out the details with these pedals as I'd love to find some shoes/clips to match. I just don't know enough about this stuff yet to know what to search!
#2438
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Also spent a bit of time repacking the wheel hubs, cleaning some of the grime off, and adjusting of the brakes. Gotta clean up the rear derailleur next.
That's 10 now! Finally free to post pics!
That's 10 now! Finally free to post pics!
#2439
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Here's the little one and I pumping up the tires. This forum's been a great resource so far
Last edited by gnavs; 08-04-21 at 05:11 PM.
#2440
Junior Member
Hello experts! I found this thread on Google looking for info on a bike I were looking at (I since bought it). It is my very first old bike and so far I haven't done anything except buy it. The original parts left are the frame, fork, brakes, saddle and handlebars (as far as I can tell). Everything else is brand spanking new or almost. Shimano Tiagra 4700, etc.
The first post here have some very nice info, thank you for that. I'm a bit confused by the frame stamp on mine though as it has a W (US?) and I bought it all the way over here in Scandinavia! Anyways, the stamp is WBTO1000. US 1982 I guess? If it is actually a US model that somehow made it to Denmark that would be fun as I also bought a motorcycle that somehow made the same trip from Japan to the US to Denmark (a 1984 Kawasaki KZ700A1). Anyways... pictures!
Edit: Ugh, can't add pictures..
The first post here have some very nice info, thank you for that. I'm a bit confused by the frame stamp on mine though as it has a W (US?) and I bought it all the way over here in Scandinavia! Anyways, the stamp is WBTO1000. US 1982 I guess? If it is actually a US model that somehow made it to Denmark that would be fun as I also bought a motorcycle that somehow made the same trip from Japan to the US to Denmark (a 1984 Kawasaki KZ700A1). Anyways... pictures!
Edit: Ugh, can't add pictures..
Last edited by Dahoon; 08-06-21 at 04:39 PM.
#2441
Junior Member
Trying to be sneaky and add image links that doesn't get blocked:
hxxps://ibb.co/CH91W3F
hxxps://ibb.co/xSP4m74
hxxps://ibb.co/Cn7MyKD
hxxps://ibb.co/HNh7sBh
hxxps://ibb.co/0yKPmcS
hxxps://ibb.co/CH91W3F
hxxps://ibb.co/xSP4m74
hxxps://ibb.co/Cn7MyKD
hxxps://ibb.co/HNh7sBh
hxxps://ibb.co/0yKPmcS
#2442
Junior Member
I forgot to ask a question! Any info on the bike would be appreciated. Especially what Dia compe model brakes it has (I'm guessing they are OEM but unsure?)
#2443
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,223
Mentioned: 654 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4722 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,039 Times
in
1,877 Posts
Hello experts! I found this thread on Google looking for info on a bike I were looking at (I since bought it). It is my very first old bike and so far I haven't done anything except buy it. The original parts left are the frame, fork, brakes, saddle and handlebars (as far as I can tell). Everything else is brand spanking new or almost. Shimano Tiagra 4700, etc.
The first post here have some very nice info, thank you for that. I'm a bit confused by the frame stamp on mine though as it has a W (US?) and I bought it all the way over here in Scandinavia! Anyways, the stamp is WBTO1000. US 1982 I guess? If it is actually a US model that somehow made it to Denmark that would be fun as I also bought a motorcycle that somehow made the same trip from Japan to the US to Denmark (a 1984 Kawasaki KZ700A1). Anyways... pictures!
Edit: Ugh, can't add pictures..
The first post here have some very nice info, thank you for that. I'm a bit confused by the frame stamp on mine though as it has a W (US?) and I bought it all the way over here in Scandinavia! Anyways, the stamp is WBTO1000. US 1982 I guess? If it is actually a US model that somehow made it to Denmark that would be fun as I also bought a motorcycle that somehow made the same trip from Japan to the US to Denmark (a 1984 Kawasaki KZ700A1). Anyways... pictures!
Edit: Ugh, can't add pictures..
Tange #5 main tubes in conjunction with hi-tensile forks, dropout eyelets and the era, suggests an entry level sports frame. I can't positively identify the brakes from the pictures but based on the quick release style they appear to be one of the ubiquitous Dia-Compe G-N, Q-N or QS-N series variants.
Selective photo assist...
#2444
Slow
Join Date: Aug 2021
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
This looks just like my 83’ Olympic Mixte, but mine is in red. Definitely a lower end model, mine belonged to my grandmother, and she was far from a cycling enthusiast.
I just registered here so no pictures yet.
#2445
Senior Member
plus there's the plastic parts that break, the heavy(!) cottered crank, steel wheels, etc.
Having said all that, the Peugeot mixtes are one of favorite bikes and I've kept two 56cm frames for myself.
#2446
Newbie
Can anyone help me with the year of this serial number: D10 2477?
It is a Nishiki for the Japanese market. It is probably from the 1990s.
Lugged chain-stays, the rest is welded.
Mono seat-stays down to the brake mount.
Pictures show frame and fork ready for repainting:
It is a Nishiki for the Japanese market. It is probably from the 1990s.
Lugged chain-stays, the rest is welded.
Mono seat-stays down to the brake mount.
Pictures show frame and fork ready for repainting:
#2447
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23,223
Mentioned: 654 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4722 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3,039 Times
in
1,877 Posts
My guess would be 1991 but I'm not sure, as I haven't seen many Asian market models and the lack of componets complicates age determination. I find it strange that the frame is mostly TIG welded but that the fork is not a unicrown. If it is a known matching fork, it may be an off-the-shelf Tange model with an alpha numeric date code stamped into the steerer tube that you can use to date the frame.
Likes For T-Mar:
#2449
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Grove, Ok
Posts: 204
Bikes: 71 American Eagle Olympiad, 03 Trek 5200 P1, 2013 Trek 6 series Domane, 83 Apollo branded Kuwahara, 78 Trek TX 300, 73 Nishiki Intl. 86 Nishiki Prestige, Nishiki Olympic, 72 and 73 Nishiki Safari', two-speed Electra BMX cruiser 1, 87 Nishiki Linear
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 32 Post(s)
Liked 65 Times
in
38 Posts
Had to ditch the Silk handlebars that came on the bike (Bent) I rummaged around in my pile of parts and found a Silk replacement.
#2450
Junior Member
Nishiki Bel Air mixte, 1985 (or 1986?), 3 pulley derailleur madness
Just got a Nishiki Bel Air, appears to be 1985.
Serial number: WE18620 = 18,620th frame produced in 1985 for the US market, right? Is it a 1986 model manufactured in 1985? Or a 1985 also made in 1985?
Brother-in-law family member is moving house and this was in the basement so got donated to the crazy bike guy (me apparently). I thought a steel mixte in red would be a fun project bike but this is a silly fun bike. The Sugino VP triple crankset caught my eye and I had no idea what to make of this Suntour XC 3 pulley derailer, weird! One of the pulleys needs to be replaced but the other two are serviceable. Gold anodizing is clean still. Love the color matched stem top and Suntour thumb shift levers. WE 18 620 (the "2" is obscured by paint and may have been slightly misaligned). I'd guess the bars and stem are original, yeah? Seems to be similar (but not clear if the same as) the shifter lever that Rivendell imitated in 1999 with their Silver shifter - is that right?
Planning to replace cables, housing, tires/tubes, brake pads, grips, saddle. The MKS pedals are kinda cool so they stay, I'll probably ditch the rack and add a basket to the front if the future rider wants. Maybe some handlebars with more back sweep (imitation Albatross or Bosco bars) and a Brooks B67, then if I get real excited I'll swap the rear wheel or cassette for a 9 speed if I can figure a way to have that work with the 3 pulley derailer.
Please let me know your thoughts, questions, and suggestions - this is my first restoration of something from this era so I'm open to suggestions. My other rides are Rivendells (Hillborne, Rosco Baby, and Cheviot).
Sugino VP crankset looks newish, the triple pulley derailer is nutzo but one of the pulleys needs to be replaced, the Avocet seat is shredded.
Gold anodizing is clean still. Love the color matched stem top and Suntour thumb shift levers.
WE 18 620 (the "2" is obscured by paint and may have been slightly misaligned).
Serial number: WE18620 = 18,620th frame produced in 1985 for the US market, right? Is it a 1986 model manufactured in 1985? Or a 1985 also made in 1985?
Brother-in-law family member is moving house and this was in the basement so got donated to the crazy bike guy (me apparently). I thought a steel mixte in red would be a fun project bike but this is a silly fun bike. The Sugino VP triple crankset caught my eye and I had no idea what to make of this Suntour XC 3 pulley derailer, weird! One of the pulleys needs to be replaced but the other two are serviceable. Gold anodizing is clean still. Love the color matched stem top and Suntour thumb shift levers. WE 18 620 (the "2" is obscured by paint and may have been slightly misaligned). I'd guess the bars and stem are original, yeah? Seems to be similar (but not clear if the same as) the shifter lever that Rivendell imitated in 1999 with their Silver shifter - is that right?
Planning to replace cables, housing, tires/tubes, brake pads, grips, saddle. The MKS pedals are kinda cool so they stay, I'll probably ditch the rack and add a basket to the front if the future rider wants. Maybe some handlebars with more back sweep (imitation Albatross or Bosco bars) and a Brooks B67, then if I get real excited I'll swap the rear wheel or cassette for a 9 speed if I can figure a way to have that work with the 3 pulley derailer.
Please let me know your thoughts, questions, and suggestions - this is my first restoration of something from this era so I'm open to suggestions. My other rides are Rivendells (Hillborne, Rosco Baby, and Cheviot).
Sugino VP crankset looks newish, the triple pulley derailer is nutzo but one of the pulleys needs to be replaced, the Avocet seat is shredded.
Gold anodizing is clean still. Love the color matched stem top and Suntour thumb shift levers.
WE 18 620 (the "2" is obscured by paint and may have been slightly misaligned).
Likes For jbrams: