Three cool scores, three stuck seatposts...
10-06-21, 09:59 AM
#27
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In the world of stuck seat posts, everything works "SOMETIMES". Do enough of them, and you will end up cutting one out. Its just how it goes.
Endless threads on how to get stuck posts out, probably over 1000 of them.
Endless threads on how to get stuck posts out, probably over 1000 of them.
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10-06-21, 10:10 AM
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Wow, this is when it pays to be a tinkerer -- lots of good parts on each frame. Great score!
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10-06-21, 11:09 AM
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NICE IM. Friction shifting and non-aero brake levers make it a 85.
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10-06-21, 11:28 AM
#30
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I'm absolutely certain one of these is going to need serious stuff done. Maybe 2. I am considering drilling to a big enough diameter that I could use my kind of dull seat tube reamer as a big time fall back position. Thing is the trek is fine now and ready to build so I am waaaaay ahead.
10-06-21, 03:33 PM
#31
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Good job on the Trek!
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10-06-21, 03:51 PM
#32
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...yes, mix it 50/50, and you need to mix it in an acetone resistant plastic bottle, not just any ole plastic bottle. Also it has a tendency to separate out when not in use, so you need to shake it regularly. I think I'm using Dextron right now, but anything will work that is labeled ATF. It works better than any of the commercial products. People don't believe this, until they try it.
If you keep a small, used Trifow bottle with an application straw in the nozzle handy, old bicycle things come apart much easier. So you don't damage as many little component bolts and machine screws, which makes your life easier. Mostly.
If you keep a small, used Trifow bottle with an application straw in the nozzle handy, old bicycle things come apart much easier. So you don't damage as many little component bolts and machine screws, which makes your life easier. Mostly.
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10-06-21, 04:48 PM
#33
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11-06-21, 08:29 AM
#34
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Patience is the best practice for the challenging corrosions ...
My latest battle was approx one month battle to remove a seized seat post that was stuck in metal frame seat tube.
AL Nitto seatpost.
Start using PB Blaster spending one week applying to post from bottom bracket and from top of seat tube.
Flipping frame and using rubber mallet to hit / twist seat tube from top.
Next using KRoil spending one week applying to post from bottom bracket and from top of seat tube.
Flipping frame and using rubber mallet to hit / twist seat tube from top.
Next using CRC Freeze-off spending one week applying to post from bottom bracket and from top of seat tube.
Flipping frame and using rubber mallet to hit / twist seat tube from top.
Next cut off top of seat post and drilled holes on both side to insert long screw to be used with longer metal poles.
Used this to gain max torque for twisting seat tube.
After many attempts to twist off over one day and adding more penetrating lubricant between attempts, the post finally twisted free.
Victory !
My latest battle was approx one month battle to remove a seized seat post that was stuck in metal frame seat tube.
AL Nitto seatpost.
Start using PB Blaster spending one week applying to post from bottom bracket and from top of seat tube.
Flipping frame and using rubber mallet to hit / twist seat tube from top.
Next using KRoil spending one week applying to post from bottom bracket and from top of seat tube.
Flipping frame and using rubber mallet to hit / twist seat tube from top.
Next using CRC Freeze-off spending one week applying to post from bottom bracket and from top of seat tube.
Flipping frame and using rubber mallet to hit / twist seat tube from top.
Next cut off top of seat post and drilled holes on both side to insert long screw to be used with longer metal poles.
Used this to gain max torque for twisting seat tube.
After many attempts to twist off over one day and adding more penetrating lubricant between attempts, the post finally twisted free.
Victory !
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11-06-21, 10:04 AM
#35
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Still got two to go....
11-06-21, 10:24 AM
#36
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The Ironman is at least a 62. And if it's the original seatpost, that baby is LONG, like 230mm (okay, that isn't really long, but I'm used to 190 posts on C&V). Pity some short person got a huge frame and slammed the seatpost on it! Probably thought "the bike fits me really well, and I'm 5'8"!"
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11-06-21, 10:26 AM
#37
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This is going to start being a problem again with dropper seat posts. People tend to get the longest extension they can and slam it in the frame. That means it never gets moved and there’s nothing to grab on. Aluminum in aluminum, too.
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11-06-21, 10:39 AM
#38
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The Ironman is at least a 62. And if it's the original seatpost, that baby is LONG, like 230mm (okay, that isn't really long, but I'm used to 190 posts on C&V). Pity some short person got a huge frame and slammed the seatpost on it! Probably thought "the bike fits me really well, and I'm 5'8"!"
I had pb blaster in the centurion for weeks upside down and none made it through the seat tube. Radical measures will need to be taken.
11-06-21, 10:41 AM
#39
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Seatposts are so long nowadays, whenever I buy a new kalloy for a project I cut it down to a reasonable size just because.
11-06-21, 12:12 PM
#40
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I usually walk away from stuck seatpost buys but couldn’t resist. PB Blaster, wrenching and turning it in a vise didn’t work. Not enough seat post exposed so it only the stripped the post from the mounting bracket. Now bracket spins independently of the still stuck post. Next step is a hacksaw to cut the bracket off and pour caustic soda down the tube. Good times.
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11-06-21, 12:35 PM
#41
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As a last resort yes, it is possible to drill out a stuck seatpost. See this thread, The down side is the cost of the drill and extension.
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11-06-21, 01:22 PM
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On a recent 85 Torpado, I passed on a stuck seat post. I got a call back from the seller that his son in law got it out. Crank removed and coka cola poured in. Big wrench on post and twisting then. Post a bit scarred up, but usable. As others said, different methods work sometimes. I was surprised actually.
11-06-21, 01:22 PM
#43
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Got my first one out with a hacksaw. Haven't tried the second yet, which also has a frozen stem.
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11-06-21, 03:11 PM
#44
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Maybe a lag bolt and impact gun if you end up cutting it off?
11-07-21, 07:28 AM
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And if you need additional leverage, stand away from the head tube and feed an eight-foot 2x4 between the head tube and the seat tube. Leaning on that will multiply your force so tread carefully. You might need a volunteer to brace the frame at vertical during your efforts.
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11-07-21, 08:27 PM
#46
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Seatpost blaster
Drop the cocktail of looseners then hope the seat tube doesn’t shear...
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12-04-21, 08:32 AM
#47
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After trying pretty much everything except caustic soda I decided to start removing stock. I figure if I can't get it all out that less caustic soda would be needed eventually.
I carefully drilled the center of the seat post and then
started with a 3/4" stepper bit. I eventually needed an extension but now have a 3/4" hole completely through the seat post. I have a 25mm stepper on order. The cool thing about these bits is they follow the previous hole. If I can get a 25mm hole without damaging the seat tube my adjustable reamer will fit.
I carefully drilled the center of the seat post and then
started with a 3/4" stepper bit. I eventually needed an extension but now have a 3/4" hole completely through the seat post. I have a 25mm stepper on order. The cool thing about these bits is they follow the previous hole. If I can get a 25mm hole without damaging the seat tube my adjustable reamer will fit.
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03-03-22, 06:22 PM
#48
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27.2 seat post in place
3 inches of seatpost removed.
my son says he will shorten a stock modern seatpost to give him a French fit with 3/4" showing. At least this bike will get used
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03-04-22, 08:34 AM
#49
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Yup, good old fashioned mix.
Yet perhaps the cheapest penetrant is standalone diesel fuel. It really is an oil, not a gas, does not evaporate. Buying it in jerry cans allows me to fill up entire tubes and stays with it.
And when I drain it, I catch it all and store it for future use again.
PB blaster is just too expensive to use in quantity.
Yet perhaps the cheapest penetrant is standalone diesel fuel. It really is an oil, not a gas, does not evaporate. Buying it in jerry cans allows me to fill up entire tubes and stays with it.
And when I drain it, I catch it all and store it for future use again.
PB blaster is just too expensive to use in quantity.
03-25-22, 01:09 PM
#50
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Here is the running iron man. My son prefers a bit of a French fit. So glad two of the three got running. The Peugeot is next winters project.
