Do patched road tubes last?
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It goes a bit further than that. Cold vulcanization is a 2 chemical process much like epoxy. The fluid has one chemical and the patch has the other. If you use vulcanizing fluid without a patch that has the matching accelerator, the vulcanizing fluid is about the same as rubber cement. Rema is the only system that I can say with certainty that uses the 2 chemical process. Most all of the others are just rubber cement.
#28
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A few years ago I bought bulk Rema patches and cement. Flats seem to come in groups so I'll patch in groups too. I've done 6 in the last week on various bikes. I keep using them as long as they hold air after a patch job. If the patch takes, and mine mostly do, it'll go indefinitely. Sometime they fail on first use though, and that's when I throw out the tube.
If I leave them too long I forget which are good, and the other day I found my spare tube wasn't.
I have to ask my wife if she has an empty nail polish jar to put some cement in so I can carry it around. I always found the little tubes supplied with the kits doesn't last very long and I can just fill this from the bulk container.
If I leave them too long I forget which are good, and the other day I found my spare tube wasn't.
I have to ask my wife if she has an empty nail polish jar to put some cement in so I can carry it around. I always found the little tubes supplied with the kits doesn't last very long and I can just fill this from the bulk container.
#29
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It goes a bit further than that. Cold vulcanization is a 2 chemical process much like epoxy. The fluid has one chemical and the patch has the other. If you use vulcanizing fluid without a patch that has the matching accelerator, the vulcanizing fluid is about the same as rubber cement. Rema is the only system that I can say with certainty that uses the 2 chemical process. Most all of the others are just rubber cement.
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I keep patching till the valves go bad.
Also, I also find the valve is the limiting factor in tube lifespan - either the rubber around the base of the valve stem gets torn or damaged, or the valve otherwise gets damaged.
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2. The solvent costs nearly as much as a new can. It's possible the Rema solids have polymerized so diluting it won't work anyway. When it gets too thick to use, it's probably cheaper to buy a new can of cement.
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The SDS says that the solvent is naphtha. Proportion of solvent needed might be hard to judge. Mineral spirits will probably work. The low flash point, odored version would be better but is hard to find. Try a test on some before adding it to the whole can.
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I don't flat too often and have always had a stash of new tubes around, so when I would, I'd just put a new tube in and carry on, never giving patching a thought. Now that tubes are getting little pricier, I'm wondering if a patched tube will last, because I have several in a pile with a single small hole in each. A new tube is around $10, whereas a patch kit (like Park's) looks like it might cover 2-3 tubes for $10. But do patched tubes really last long? If they do, is there any specific kit you all would suggest for longevity?
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I have one tube that has been patched with a Park glue less patch working fine for over 3 years. The deal is using it right.
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Not sure what I am doing wrong, then - I've never had any luck with them.. I was able to get home once and found the tire flat the next morning, but that was the best outcome I have ex[perienced, while most of te time the patch fails withing a short time of application.. Funnily, I have close to 100% success rate with traditional patches, and close to 0% success rate with glueless patches. So what do I need to do to make the glueless patches work? I have the knowledge and a track record of successfully scuffing tubes and getting patches to stick, and glueless are supposed to be easier, so where am I going wrong?
#37
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Not sure what I am doing wrong, then - I've never had any luck with them.. I was able to get home once and found the tire flat the next morning, but that was the best outcome I have ex[perienced, while most of te time the patch fails withing a short time of application.. Funnily, I have close to 100% success rate with traditional patches, and close to 0% success rate with glueless patches. So what do I need to do to make the glueless patches work? I have the knowledge and a track record of successfully scuffing tubes and getting patches to stick, and glueless are supposed to be easier, so where am I going wrong?
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Not sure what I am doing wrong, then - I've never had any luck with them.. I was able to get home once and found the tire flat the next morning, but that was the best outcome I have ex[perienced, while most of te time the patch fails withing a short time of application.. Funnily, I have close to 100% success rate with traditional patches, and close to 0% success rate with glueless patches. So what do I need to do to make the glueless patches work? I have the knowledge and a track record of successfully scuffing tubes and getting patches to stick, and glueless are supposed to be easier, so where am I going wrong?
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The difference is that the glue or other applications used prior to pressing down the patch tends to dilute or dissolve enough of the contaminates to allow adhesion.
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Anyone here old enough to remember the patches you would clamp in place and bond to the tube by burning them on? There was a flammable fabric on the pack of the patch (encased in a tin form) and you would light it with a match and the heat from the burn would apparently help the bond. I can still smell them! Must have been toxic…like everything else in the early 70’s. LOL
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Anyone here old enough to remember the patches you would clamp in place and bond to the tube by burning them on? There was a flammable fabric on the pack of the patch (encased in a tin form) and you would light it with a match and the heat from the burn would apparently help the bond. I can still smell them! Must have been toxic…like everything else in the early 70’s. LOL
Chemical…aka “cold vulcanizing…is a far better method with far more consistent results. That’s if you use the proper patch kit. 99% of patch kits available aren’t the proper patch kit.
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Not sure what I am doing wrong, then - I've never had any luck with them.. I was able to get home once and found the tire flat the next morning, but that was the best outcome I have ex[perienced, while most of te time the patch fails withing a short time of application.. Funnily, I have close to 100% success rate with traditional patches, and close to 0% success rate with glueless patches. So what do I need to do to make the glueless patches work? I have the knowledge and a track record of successfully scuffing tubes and getting patches to stick, and glueless are supposed to be easier, so where am I going wrong?
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Not sure what I am doing wrong, then - I've never had any luck with them.. I was able to get home once and found the tire flat the next morning, but that was the best outcome I have ex[perienced, while most of te time the patch fails withing a short time of application.. Funnily, I have close to 100% success rate with traditional patches, and close to 0% success rate with glueless patches. So what do I need to do to make the glueless patches work? I have the knowledge and a track record of successfully scuffing tubes and getting patches to stick, and glueless are supposed to be easier, so where am I going wrong?
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LOL—I wish! They must have “phased out” out your way, but I grew up in West Australia and we (I) used them well into the mid 70’s. Like I posted—I can still smell them burning. My dad ran a garage so we did a lot of tires.
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I'm amazed this thread is on post 47 and could get past "It depends" as the correct answer.
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I've always been under the impression that "vulcanizing fluid" is the same thing as rubber cement. Is this wrong?
I looked it up. They aren't. But interestingly, I also read:
So now I am left wondering if what folks in this thread are calling vulcanizing cement is in fact rubber cement?
I looked it up. They aren't. But interestingly, I also read:
- Vulcanizing cement needs heat to complete the process of adhesion
So now I am left wondering if what folks in this thread are calling vulcanizing cement is in fact rubber cement?
Last edited by Polaris OBark; 05-08-22 at 03:21 PM.
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I've always been under the impression that "vulcanizing fluid" is the same thing as rubber cement. Is this wrong?
I looked it up. They aren't. But interestingly, I also read:
So now I am left wondering if what folks in this thread are calling vulcanizing cement is in fact rubber cement?
I looked it up. They aren't. But interestingly, I also read:
- Vulcanizing cement needs heat to complete the process of adhesion
So now I am left wondering if what folks in this thread are calling vulcanizing cement is in fact rubber cement?
Example: JB Weld vs TIG welding. Not going to look at those being equal, even though they have "weld" in the product name.
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