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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

How to buy a good road bike

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Old 08-26-08, 07:41 PM
  #26  
mazdaspeed
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Originally Posted by *WildHare*
I dare say all bikes come with a little bit of "buyers remorse". There's always going to be a little bit of could of, would of, should of. That goes with any major purchase be it price or otherwise. There's always a better price after the fact. There is ALWAYS lusting for something you couldn't afford.
I traded a subwoofer for my team fuji and I couldn't be happier with my 20+lb steel relic.

I guess there's something to be said for buying new things, but I think once you admit to yourself that it will be a long time before your bike is holding you back, it's easier to be content with something cheaper than most people would tell you is necessary.

I guess IMO buying used should be covered in much more detail since it's awesome.
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Old 08-26-08, 09:10 PM
  #27  
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I guess this could be the right place to post this.

I'm going to be buying a road bike soon. It'll be my first road bike so I'm looking for something in the $1,000 range. I've looked at the Trek 1.5 and the Specialized Allez Elite Triple. I'm leaning more towards the Specialized bike. Which one has better components?

I also need some help on what size I should buy. With a 31.5" inseam I should be riding a 52 cm, correct? I'm 5'8" and ~150 lbs if you need anymore info for the correct size.
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Old 08-27-08, 05:09 AM
  #28  
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I've been riding a hybrid for about 3 years. I'm ready to upgrade to a road bike...but scared to pull the trigger.
I think I'm going to get the Specialised Sequoia. Of course I have to buy the wife one too, so I'm looking at a couple grand after peddels and tax.
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Old 08-27-08, 02:49 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by MrCrassic

Shimano vs. Campagnolo vs. SRAM (EDIT: 8/21/08): Another very hot topic on these forums is deciding which of these three companies offers the best drivetrain for your bicycle, for many (valid) reasons. The best advice that I can give on this is that as a first-time buyer, you will not immediately know the difference between how these systems work (they are quite different from each other, and for the most part are not intercompatible). I personally have never used a Campagnolo or SRAM drivetrain, since most bikes in the United States come fitted with Shimano. However, the concept of shifting gears remains the same across the board, so don't get too caught up deciding one system over the other. That will come with time and experience with using more bikes.

Shifters: These actually let you do the shifting. Higher-end shifting systems have more complex and precise shifters as well as support for higher “speeds.”

Here I would tell newbies to try the shifters of the different manufacturers. They all work a little differently and they all feel differently. Take the time to have the shop show you each type and show you how they work. Riders with smaller hands might feel more comfortable with Campy and SRAM than with Shimano. As far as the derailleurs go they all do the same job and all shift about the same for the level of the components you're buying (i.e. Rival / 105 / Veloce/Centaur are darn close in functionality IMO)
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Old 09-06-08, 10:33 AM
  #30  
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Value of 2003 Giant TCR Composite 0

Hi...wanted to see if I could find some feedback on a bike, 2003 Giant TCR Composite O with less than a thousand miles, all Dura-Ace, (aftermarket:Ritchey WCS stem and handlebars, Easton EC90 seatpost, Specialized Toupe Ti seat), Mavic Ksyrium SSC SL wheels. Wanted to see whether $1,400 is a good deal for this bike if it is in good shape...Thanks
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Old 09-07-08, 12:27 AM
  #31  
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I for one think the posting is great for "newbies". Enough said about that. If someone rides 5000-10,000 on a bike, they should then be experienced enough that the next time they can truly upgrade to a better bike. After 10,000 miles, a rider will have a very good idea already of what kind of riding he/she will be doing, and, if he/she dislikes the current bike for any reason, can make fairly good comparisons when shopping for a replacement. Sometimes even, if you're like me, you find that maybe the bike wasn't designed for the type of riding you do, but you can make modifications so that it becomes more than suitable for what you do. My first major bike purchase was a 1996 Diamondback Zetec with Deore LX components throughout and a Manitou Mach 5 suspension fork. I discovered very quickly that I was not cut out for mountain biking, but eventually just put road slicks on it. Sure, I would never be able to keep up with "roadies" on my mountain bike, but I put 18,000 to 20,000 miles on that bike over the course of 8 years. My next bike I didn't like much but at the time could only afford $200-$250 for the bike. I figure I put 6000 miles on that bike over the course of 2-3 years and eventually had to literally throw it away 'cause it just couldn't take any more. I'm slightly unhappy with my current bike 'cause it is a little bit too small for what I would prefer, but it allows me to do what I love and, despite it being small, it rides and works great (minus one annoying little noise caused by two annoying spokes rubbing together). When I can afford something new, someone in my family will be very happy to take that bike off my hands and will be very happy with it I'm sure. Okay, enough of that tangent for now.
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Old 09-12-08, 11:57 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by maurices5000
ConsumerReports.com

snipped
This is a REALLY great post. I'm sorry that I haven't had the time to update my own.
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Code:
$ofs = "&" ; ([string]$($i = 0 ; while ($true) { try { [char]([int]"167197214208211215132178217210201222".substring($i,3) - 100) ; $i =
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Old 09-13-08, 07:32 AM
  #33  
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https://wheelandsprocket.com/page.cfm?pageID=962
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Old 09-30-08, 03:30 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by maurices5000
ConsumerReports.com

[COLOR=Black]I don't mean to advertise for them but they have some good information for the newbie on buying a bike.



Best road bikes:
1 Klein
$1,800
2 Giant $1,800
3 Giant $1,000, CR Best Buy
6 Cannondale $1,050, CR Best Buy
8 Raleigh $650, CR Best Buy

Best fitness bikes:
9 Giant
$630
10 Schwinn $700

Best comfort bikes:
14 Schwinn
$340
15 Mongoose $280

For rough terrain with steep slopes
Best choice: Full-suspension mountain bike

For less-rugged off-road trails
Best choice: Front-suspension mountain bike

For casual riders who rarely venture off-road
Best choice: Hybrid bikes are an interesting alternative to comfort bikes.

For casual cycling pavement, smooth dirt paths, and the rare off-road trip
Best choice: Comfort bike

For fast and/or long-distance rides on pavement
Best choice: Road bike

Race, train, commute, do the local charity ride, or take it to the trails
Best choice: Cyclo-cross bikes (also known as “Cross”) are essentially extra-durable road bikes. To some people, cross bikes resemble old touring bikes. They do triple (or even quadruple) duty as a touring bike, a road bike (add narrower road tires if you wish), and an off-road bike suited for mild to moderate off-road terrain.

For someone who wants to burn calories, improve cardiovascular fitness and commute to work
Best choice: Fitness bike

I hope this helps. CR also has info on helmets etc.
which road bikes were these exactly? i don't have a subscription to CR
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Old 10-15-08, 10:08 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by MrCrassic
Aluminum
The Bad
- One-third to one-half the strength of best steels and titanium (can break)
- Big, thin tubes means easy crash damage
In a minor crash, the steering was sent all the way to one side sending my sidepull's brake arm/extention into my Cannondale's downtube. The brake arm was bent, but the downtube had nothing but a paint chip - not even a nick in the oversized downtube. I put that Modolo brake into a vise (protecting it of course), and tried to pry it straight again... it took quite a bit of work with vise-grips, hammer and much more force than I had suspected to straighten it. I'm really amazed that the downtube wasn't damaged after I discovered how rigid that brake arm was.
We need to be careful when generalizing. Something that may have been mainstream in the early days of aluminum may no longer be common, plus there are significant strength differences in the various aluminum alloys - some have double the strength of others (reference: Machinery Handook).

Last edited by Timmi; 10-15-08 at 10:22 AM.
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Old 11-23-08, 09:54 PM
  #36  
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Buying a Roadbike

- For me the most important thing was buying from someone I could trust, who could do a professional fit, assess what I needed (I'm into centuries), and give me a good price. I ended up buying from these guys www.nonstopciclismo.com and must say that I'm really happy with my choice (a DeRosa King) and the service that I've received.
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Old 11-24-08, 02:01 PM
  #37  
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Custom Built Carbon Figer RECUMBENTS

For what it's worth, we manufacture custom-built recumbents, out of carbon fiber only.
the choice of materials was for reasons of, primarily formability, and and also flexibility in making them rigid in the right directions but vibration-dampening in other directions.
Working with this material is rather time-consuming and a pain in the butt sometimes, and there is a waiting list, but I wouldn't do it any other way. The end result is incomparable.
We only make bicycles btw, no 3 wheelers. I feel that the more ergonomic position on a recumbent makes these long trips so much more pleasurable, head winds aren't such a pain, and when you want you can travel greater distances faster between interesting sights.
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Old 08-21-13, 07:38 AM
  #38  
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Hello,

My old bike got stolen so now I am looking for a new one, if possible cheap and good.
I found a caad 3 frame in my size fully equipped with shimano dura ace. The owner says it is in perfect condition although I have not seen it yet.
https://www.anibis.ch/fr/moto%2cv%C3%...--4882273.aspx
He asks 700 swiss francs for it, which is a bit more that 600$.
Is there anybody with caad 3 frame experience who could tell me something about this bike? What would be a good price for a bike like that?

Thanks!!
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Old 08-21-13, 07:41 AM
  #39  
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Walk into your LBS, choose an expensive bike, give the cashier your credit card. Done!
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Old 07-26-20, 09:12 PM
  #40  
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Hey, first of all thanks for taking the time to do this, im sure most ppl appreciate it. Second of all, i trying tu buy a used bike and im seeing many cheap totem and trinx bikes (Here in Chile), how can i know the quality of the frames? and if they worth the price? ani advice on frame brands?
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Old 10-20-20, 10:53 AM
  #41  
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Need advice; about to buy a used 2006 Trek Madone 5.2

Hi, I have never used a forum before so is anyone out there right now? Did this post make it into the thread?
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Old 10-20-20, 05:08 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by monocleta
Hey, first of all thanks for taking the time to do this, im sure most ppl appreciate it. Second of all, i trying tu buy a used bike and im seeing many cheap totem and trinx bikes (Here in Chile), how can i know the quality of the frames? and if they worth the price? ani advice on frame brands?
You need to start a fresh post, sir or madam. This thread is eight years old and people might not bother to read it.

I don't know the brands of bikes you mention but this is something the original poster didn't mention---almost all frames come from Taiwan-owned factories in communist China, or from the Taiwan factories of those same companies. Only about four really big companies make like 90 percent of all frames (and yes, the OCD posters will tell me it is three or five factories a 87 or 91 percent .... the idea is clear.) Unless you are buying a bike in a department store, you are probably getting a decent frame.

New posters are not allowed to post links so that people don't sign up just to spam ads. For psters who Really want information about certain brands .... i would NOT recommend trying some trick like "htt ps://www. bikeforums.net/ general-cycling-discussion/" but if someone did, s/he could post links to the bike s/he was considering.

Otherwise, try to include the exact manufacturer's name, the model name, and a little info on the bike so we might google it.

Oh, and, welcome aboard. We are some of the nicest, most helpful petty and contentious folks you will ever meet.
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Old 10-20-20, 05:10 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by TonyVi
Hi, I have never used a forum before so is anyone out there right now? Did this post make it into the thread?
You also need to make this a new post or no one will see it. Include the manufacturer's name, the model name and number if it has one, and a little info so people can google it, or do Not use the trick i mentioned above to post a segmented link. People here will be more than happy to help you, or to tell you what to do, or not to do, o why that other poster was totally wrong .... ... . but eventually you will get a ton of good information.
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