What road bike do you have?
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Throw the stick!!!!
Dear God NO!!!!! Looks great the way it is, don't ruin it with red tape.
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I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.
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Bicycle Repair Man !!!
I like a slightly smaller frame for more aggressive riding and it is a 53/53... size speaks to the custom nature of the build and think it may have been originally intended for time trials or tri racing.
The Ron Cooper is a pure racing bicycle from the mid 70's... the build quality does not get any better as Cooper is a master builder. The bike is a 10 in every respect when it comes to performance and ride and as a racing bike one can see that it has seen it's fair share of hard road miles which gives it a certain patina and charm.
It is funny to take this bike out and have the kids mistake it for a touring bike because road bikes aren't made of steel... it is to the Proctor what an Audi is to a Volkswagon... despite being older and a few cm taller it is a lighter bike.
There is something about riding a quality steel bicycle that cannot be duplicated and the Japanese probably made some of the best bicycles through the 80's and early 90's.. the quality of the builds and finish tends to be very high and in many cases they put more exotic European builders to shame.
Early Trek road bicycles are also rather excellent... when they were hand building them in Wisconsin the quality was first rate and they tend to be rather affordable.
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I just got a Velocite Selene. It is an Aluminum Frame bike, Medium frame. with pedals, it weighs 17.8 pounds.
Took it to its first ride, 86 miles.
Took it to its first ride, 86 miles.
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need to go out and ride..
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nice~ i like that~
i'm running ultegra crank with 11/34 + deore RD.
i'm running ultegra crank with 11/34 + deore RD.
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The latest addition: Deng Fu FM098. Still trying to get the seat level and the bars at the right height for me.
calm down its just a bike
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as featured on www.TorelliFan.com
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I love both these bikes... the Proctor came to me with a mish mash of cast off parts so I am in the process of upgrading and updating everything with a full 600 8 speed group and once the new wheels are built it will be an even sweeter ride. I figure that for under $500.00 total cost I will have a 20 pound hand built steel road bicycle that has no problem dangling in along in the low 30's which is the pace of the group rides I join, and it climbs like a goat on steroids. Am pretty sure that the frame and fork are predominantly Reynold's 853 as I am familiar with these bikes and what Proctor was building at the time... it is stiff, rides beautifully on 23's, and with the aggressive geometry off the front handles very quickly with no twitchiness at any speed. The rear triangle is pretty stiff...the chain stays are a little heavier and believe this is to compliment the wishbone stay and makes the power transfer rather exceptional.
I like a slightly smaller frame for more aggressive riding and it is a 53/53... size speaks to the custom nature of the build and think it may have been originally intended for time trials or tri racing.
The Ron Cooper is a pure racing bicycle from the mid 70's... the build quality does not get any better as Cooper is a master builder. The bike is a 10 in every respect when it comes to performance and ride and as a racing bike one can see that it has seen it's fair share of hard road miles which gives it a certain patina and charm.
It is funny to take this bike out and have the kids mistake it for a touring bike because road bikes aren't made of steel... it is to the Proctor what an Audi is to a Volkswagon... despite being older and a few cm taller it is a lighter bike.
There is something about riding a quality steel bicycle that cannot be duplicated and the Japanese probably made some of the best bicycles through the 80's and early 90's.. the quality of the builds and finish tends to be very high and in many cases they put more exotic European builders to shame.
Early Trek road bicycles are also rather excellent... when they were hand building them in Wisconsin the quality was first rate and they tend to be rather affordable.
I like a slightly smaller frame for more aggressive riding and it is a 53/53... size speaks to the custom nature of the build and think it may have been originally intended for time trials or tri racing.
The Ron Cooper is a pure racing bicycle from the mid 70's... the build quality does not get any better as Cooper is a master builder. The bike is a 10 in every respect when it comes to performance and ride and as a racing bike one can see that it has seen it's fair share of hard road miles which gives it a certain patina and charm.
It is funny to take this bike out and have the kids mistake it for a touring bike because road bikes aren't made of steel... it is to the Proctor what an Audi is to a Volkswagon... despite being older and a few cm taller it is a lighter bike.
There is something about riding a quality steel bicycle that cannot be duplicated and the Japanese probably made some of the best bicycles through the 80's and early 90's.. the quality of the builds and finish tends to be very high and in many cases they put more exotic European builders to shame.
Early Trek road bicycles are also rather excellent... when they were hand building them in Wisconsin the quality was first rate and they tend to be rather affordable.
I rode a 1979 Apollo(SS conversion) most of last summer, i loved the ride/feel. I got complements so often while riding that bike.
Sold it to a great guy, for another winter bike/ Mountain bike.
I've been busy building my 1st "modern" road bike the last few months, & train on my CX bikes. I just picked up this Centurion up from a friend @ work. It was sitting in our work shop for nearly half a year, I offered to help him restore it, but he didn't seem to enthusiastic about it.
He knows I like to work on bikes so he passed it on to me.
Thanks for the tips, I'll look into some of the bikes you mentioned, if I do end up moving the Centurion.
I'm currently considering an older Cramerotti frame to build up,I was told by the owner that it has Dedaccia Zero TRE Tubing.
(The size is right too).
Too many project on the go, & better weather for riding/training...
What to do/choose?
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It's at 16.5Lbs Currently with the pedals.
Last edited by Teevoe; 06-27-12 at 08:42 PM.
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I just got my first road bike about 10 days ago, already put 200 miles on it.
I really enjoy the SRAM Apex after all.. more bike than i needed for now, but the LBS had it for 500 bucks off which was just 100 more than my original expectation of spend was.
and yes, everyone at my first group ride suggested to remove reflectors and dork disk.. i just haven't gotten around to it lol
I really enjoy the SRAM Apex after all.. more bike than i needed for now, but the LBS had it for 500 bucks off which was just 100 more than my original expectation of spend was.
and yes, everyone at my first group ride suggested to remove reflectors and dork disk.. i just haven't gotten around to it lol
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Nice man. Paying just another $100 for Sram is well worth it. Now drop those reflectors, flip it, and ride the hell out of it.
I just got my first road bike about 10 days ago, already put 200 miles on it.
I really enjoy the SRAM Apex after all.. more bike than i needed for now, but the LBS had it for 500 bucks off which was just 100 more than my original expectation of spend was.
and yes, everyone at my first group ride suggested to remove reflectors and dork disk.. i just haven't gotten around to it lol
I really enjoy the SRAM Apex after all.. more bike than i needed for now, but the LBS had it for 500 bucks off which was just 100 more than my original expectation of spend was.
and yes, everyone at my first group ride suggested to remove reflectors and dork disk.. i just haven't gotten around to it lol
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Upgrades complete (for now...)
New:
Saddle = Romin EVO Pro 143mm
Post = Ritchey Superlogic Carbon with carbon rail clamp kit
Stem = Ritchey WCS 260 100mm
Wheels = Zipp 303 Firecrest Clincher
Brakes = SRAM Red 2012 with Zipp Tangente pads
New:
Saddle = Romin EVO Pro 143mm
Post = Ritchey Superlogic Carbon with carbon rail clamp kit
Stem = Ritchey WCS 260 100mm
Wheels = Zipp 303 Firecrest Clincher
Brakes = SRAM Red 2012 with Zipp Tangente pads
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nice! what's the gearing in the back?
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@just dank - that's a SRAM XX 11-36 along with a SRAM XO R Der.
Made for days like the climb below; the gearing of a triple with less weight.
Made for days like the climb below; the gearing of a triple with less weight.
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