Stuck stem in Schwinn mixte
10-03-17, 06:11 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Stuck stem in Schwinn mixte
I’m at the start of restoring an 80s Le Tour II and I’m unable to remove the stem. I’ve banged it with a hammer a few times and used WD 40. To no avail. The fork just won’t drop after unscrewing the top bolt. I’ve haven't worked on a vintage rig in some time so I’m wondering if I’m doing something wrong or if the issue a fatal flaw. Thanks for any advice!
(PS I took a picture of the stuck stem but I don’t know how to create a url for it on my iPhone)
(PS I took a picture of the stuck stem but I don’t know how to create a url for it on my iPhone)
10-03-17, 06:29 PM
#2
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OK, let's start with the basics.
The fork is held in the frame by the headset, whose top nut locks the adjustment in place. This is entirely independent of the stem, and the fork stays in place with or without it.
The stem is held within the fork by beans of a wedge at the bottom, which is drawn up by the draw bolt (the one at the top of the stem). Since this is inside the stem, it's independent of the headset attached to the outside.
The first stem in removing the stem is to loosen the draw bolt a few turns until the head is about 1/8" above the stem (do not remove the bolt) Now, protecting it from damage, give it a sharp rap to drive it back down and push the wedge free. Once that's done, leave it assembled as you work the stem out of the fork.
The fork is held in the frame by the headset, whose top nut locks the adjustment in place. This is entirely independent of the stem, and the fork stays in place with or without it.
The stem is held within the fork by beans of a wedge at the bottom, which is drawn up by the draw bolt (the one at the top of the stem). Since this is inside the stem, it's independent of the headset attached to the outside.
The first stem in removing the stem is to loosen the draw bolt a few turns until the head is about 1/8" above the stem (do not remove the bolt) Now, protecting it from damage, give it a sharp rap to drive it back down and push the wedge free. Once that's done, leave it assembled as you work the stem out of the fork.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
10-03-17, 06:43 PM
#3
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Yes it is, FBinNY. I should really build up bikes more than once every few years. Thank you
10-04-17, 09:34 PM
#4
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OK, let's start with the basics.
The fork is held in the frame by the headset, whose top nut locks the adjustment in place. This is entirely independent of the stem, and the fork stays in place with or without it.
The stem is held within the fork by beans of a wedge at the bottom, which is drawn up by the draw bolt (the one at the top of the stem). Since this is inside the stem, it's independent of the headset attached to the outside.
The first stem in removing the stem is to loosen the draw bolt a few turns until the head is about 1/8" above the stem (do not remove the bolt) Now, protecting it from damage, give it a sharp rap to drive it back down and push the wedge free. Once that's done, leave it assembled as you work the stem out of the fork.
The fork is held in the frame by the headset, whose top nut locks the adjustment in place. This is entirely independent of the stem, and the fork stays in place with or without it.
The stem is held within the fork by beans of a wedge at the bottom, which is drawn up by the draw bolt (the one at the top of the stem). Since this is inside the stem, it's independent of the headset attached to the outside.
The first stem in removing the stem is to loosen the draw bolt a few turns until the head is about 1/8" above the stem (do not remove the bolt) Now, protecting it from damage, give it a sharp rap to drive it back down and push the wedge free. Once that's done, leave it assembled as you work the stem out of the fork.
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10-04-17, 09:44 PM
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Tonight, or the last night, when I wrote the post?
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 10-04-17 at 09:47 PM.
10-05-17, 03:23 AM
#6
Senior Member
10-05-17, 09:33 AM
#7
Banned
Galvanic corrosion is a rusting of the steel and the corrosion of the aluminum together, in the space between them
read back through the abundant stuck seatposts in steel frames 'I just got off eBay' threads .. archived here..
for some chemical solutions people have tried, before ...
....
read back through the abundant stuck seatposts in steel frames 'I just got off eBay' threads .. archived here..
for some chemical solutions people have tried, before ...
....
10-05-17, 08:33 PM
#8
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I’m at the start of restoring an 80s Le Tour II and I’m unable to remove the stem. I’ve banged it with a hammer a few times and used WD 40. To no avail. The fork just won’t drop after unscrewing the top bolt. I’ve haven't worked on a vintage rig in some time so I’m wondering if I’m doing something wrong or if the issue a fatal flaw. Thanks for any advice!
(PS I took a picture of the stuck stem but I don’t know how to create a url for it on my iPhone)
(PS I took a picture of the stuck stem but I don’t know how to create a url for it on my iPhone)
Like Fiets, I'm going to guess corrosion has set in- either rust or aluminum- between the stem and the inside of the steerer. I would proceed to lubrication and leverage:
Tighten the stem bolt enough to seal (mostly) the stem to the steerer. Not tight- just enough to make it fluid-tight.
Invert the frame/fork/stem etc. and clamp the stem in a bench vise. Padded or soft jaws are recommended.
Pour a bunch of PB Blaster down the steerer. It may leak past the stem- if it does, try to seal the stem/steerer interface. Let sit overnight.
Put a length of 2x4 in the fork near the fork crown and use it to twist the fork and break it loose from the stem. With luck the stem will come loose.
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10-08-17, 02:50 PM
#9
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Endless threads on this forum on stuck stems. Everything works SOMETIMES. The only thing that works ALL the time is cutting it out, which is definitely a PITA. Google will quickly get you access to hundreds of threads on stuck stems.
10-08-17, 03:06 PM
#10
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I read post No.3 as meaning that the the problem was simply failure to release the wedge, and by implication the OP has solved it and moved on. If he needed more help, I suspect he would have made it clear.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
10-08-17, 09:20 PM
#11
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^^^ In that case... did you like the beans?
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10-08-17, 09:25 PM
#12
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Yes. Thanks for asking.
Stem beans are quite tasty. I cook them up in a very spicy barbecue sauce and they make the back of my neck sweat.
Stem beans are quite tasty. I cook them up in a very spicy barbecue sauce and they make the back of my neck sweat.
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
10-09-17, 06:15 AM
#14
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