Tomsl923833

I added a Sakae SX triple crank to my 86 Schwinn World. The original BB has enough clearance so I didn't change it. I added about 4mm spacers to the 28 T so the chain would clear for shifting. After doing that I disc

wrk101

Since your bike does not have a derailleur hanger, just get one with a built in claw. Our co-op sells used derailleurs like that for $1. Get a long cage version.

Tomsl923833

[QUOTE=Tomsl923833;19820936]I added a Sakae SX triple crank to my 86 Schwinn World. The original BB has enough clearance so I didn't change it. I added about 4mm spacers to the 28 T so the chain would clear for shifting. After doing that I discovered my front derailleur doesn't have enough throw to shift to the 3rd chainring and, the chain appears to be too long. I tried shortening the chain and, then I had issues with the rear derailleur as well. I went to the local bike shop and, he said that I need a longer rear derailleur. From what I've read I think the Cyclone long cage rear derailleur should remedy the chain lag issue but, I don't know which Cyclone derailleur will give enough throw on the front. The original front and rear derailleurs are Suntour Accushift 2000. I didn't just pick the Cyclone derailleurs out of a hat they sound like a good quality upgrade from the information I've read in previous threads.

The Golden Boy 

Hi,

There's kind of like at least 4 iterations of the Suntour Cyclone.

The long cage rear version of any version will be inspirational. The front version of any version should be excellent for a triple.

Chances are, your chain wasn't too long- you just needed a longer cage derailleur to take up the chain slack.

As Bill mentioned above- the World and the World Sport don't have derailleur hangers built into the rear dropouts, so you'll either need one with a claw, or to steal the claw from your old derailleur.

Just to be clear... we're talking about a Schwinn World? Not a World Sport?

Tell us a little about the bike!

The Golden Boy 

I just went back through your posts...

You're going the long, and expensive way of going about this...

This isn't a case of a homely girl needing a glass slipper to be Cinderella. You've read multiple posters use the "lipstick on a pig" thing in all of your threads on this. Consider that as words of wisdom.

The World is the entry level offering for Schwinn. It had the heaviest frame, with the fewest options (derailleur hanger, bottle bosses) made of the heaviest, least expensive metal. All the parts on it were low end. And you're talking about 30 year old low end parts. It's not a bike that's sentimental to you, as it was your "most recent addition" two months ago.

I understand upgrading a frame- My 1986 Trek 400 Elance was a 2nd from entry level bike from Trek. I've put top shelf parts all over that bike. HOWEVER.... The difference in the 1986 Schwinn World frame and the 1986 Trek 400 frame are worlds apart. 531/CrMo vs HiTen/HiTen.

You mentioned in one of your other posts that you're frugal. You're wasting money and your time trying to make this bike do what you want. You've seen that you can get a whole bike (and a better bike than what you have) for what people are selling individual parts for. Two months later past peak riding season and your bike still isn't working right.

If you get a decent CrMo bike (CrMo with Mangalloy or even HiTen stays and fork), chances are, you're getting much better parts to begin with, you're getting a stronger, more durable bike made of thinner, lighter, stronger metal, more likely with more options (cable guides, bottle bosses, derailleur hangers, pump pegs...).

If you're sticking with Schwinn, even something like a post 1984 World Tour will give you a CrMo frame, same with and if luck shines on you, you can score an even better bike, that's a pound or so lighter, for next to nothing. And you won't drive yourself crazy and find yourself at dead ends trying to make the bike do what you want it to.

As an aside- put your location- even a general location- in your profile. You'll find people will LOVE to help you score an inexpensive awesome bike if they know where you're located.

As another aside- you don't need to be cryptic about what you're doing- the 10 threads you've started about this bike have broken up your questions and advice you've been given. I don't care about how many threads you start- not a problem... but in this case, people don't know what you're doing and what you've done and kind of what your intentions are. Heck- even link back to your own threads.

I think you've got a great idea of what you want to have happen. Most EVERYBODY in this form has been right where you're at. Most everyone in this forum has made the same mistakes you're making, and most everyone in this forum would like to see you NOT make the mistakes we've all made.

Tomsl923833

On this site after a certain point. I can't add anymore input or, questions. That's the reason for multiple threads. When I find a more worthy candidate I will return. Thanks! It's been a very educational experience.

The Golden Boy 

That's so much NOT the point!!!

It took me years to get the confidence to do stuff with bikes. It takes confidence to know you could make your bike awesome, or you could eff up your bike big. You've got the confidence to start with it- I don't want to scare you off from doing it- I just want you to have a reasonable expectation of what you're working with.

Most everyone here wants to help you- the reason most everyone is here is because they're learning and participating in sharing the stuff they've learned. (and showing off their awesome bikes).

Look what you've learned about scoring the World Sport (with decent Suntour/Sakae parts) for what people wanted for just parts. (by the way, the 60mm short stem on the woman's World Sport is kind of handy for some people).

Look what you learned about chain length. You may have effed up your chain- but you've figured out that the long cage derailleur is there to take up that extra slack. If you get more dorky into it- you look and see how different companies went about that problem. Huret, Shimano, Suntour... The other thing to remember is just because it's a long cage derailleur, it doesn't automatically make it good at taking a big freewheel cog.

Instead of spending $50+ for a Cyclone set- spend $10-20 for a AR or ARX or something similar. Then when you get the good bike (what you KNOW to be a good bike)- then spend the bank for the good stuff.

romperrr 

@The Golden Boy, I'm loving the bike wisdom. Great advice

Tomsl923833

Give up??? Not!!! I just like Schwinn for whatever reason. My first was a Super Le Tour 2. I probably should have started with that. I'm the guy that would build up a chevy Vega just because I can. I don't care what it's worth. I'm going for "When did they put a triple crankset on a world???" One of my donor bikes is a ladies world sport. My roomate saw the bare frame after I stripped it and, asked why I didn't fix it. So I took a bunch of leftovers and, brought it back from the grave. Her daughter rides it now. So I'm far from throwing in the towel.

MaximumCoast

Did someone mention Suntour aRX? Suntour aRX in long cage form gets my appreciation. It's cheap, wraps a good amount of chain and gets the job done. The little bit of dislike for it on Disraeli Gears keeps the prices low, maybe

All of what Golden Boy said is true.

I'd like to add... pictures... pictures make it soooo much easier for people to help out. Sometimes one little nuanced thing you don't think is important to describe, is. Pictures are more efficient in getting your point across, especially for visual people like myself.

Fahrenheit531 

+1 for performance on a budget. I run aRX on my Voyageur 11.8 commuter. Shifts just fine, doesn't care about weather and other horrors, and I don't care (much) if it gets extra gritty before I bother cleaning it up. And yeah, not exactly in high demand, so can be had on the cheap.

@Tomsl923833 -- As @The Golden Boy suggested, many of us have been down a road similar to your Schwinn World experience. If you're interested, here's the story of the Godzilla Takara. You might get a kick out of it.

The Golden Boy 

Cool...

I don't want to come across as "bossy" or excessively snobby. (although there's an element of it, and I really should try to keep that in check better)

I get it. Putting a GM 400 in a Mercury Bobcat because you know you can. Been there, done that... until the front passenger fender started vibrating and kind of exploded out on HWY D out North of West Bend. Oooh and that reminds me, my friend had a 67 Camaro, but blew the 327 and we got a 400 block (or was it a 389 block) and somehow made it work... but that was more out of necessity rather than "just because" or "hold my beer, watch this."

Like I said, my 86 Trek 400 Elance is kinda 'that.' https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...e-project.html. A 2nd from Trek's entry level frame, done up with top of the line parts (I was running Superbe Pro on it but I couldn't get it to fit a 28T cog), changed TO 27" wheels, mixing and matching Suntour, Shimano, Maillard... It's a glorious bike. The big difference is the frame.

The frame is the whole heart of the bike. Your first thread was something like 'how to add value to a bike' or something to that effect. I think my reply was something like 'you can put $1500 of Phill Wood on the bike and it'll still be a $100 Schwinn World.' And it's true. There's nothing particularly redeeming about that frame. The post 86 World Sport is a pretty decent bike by most any standard. The World... not so much. If you had a bond with that frame or that model... cool! Hey, people rode Free Spirits and Continentals across the country... if that was the bike that took you from here to the Bahamas- go for it- celebrate that frame. (the Bahamas are islands... bringing it back to *****in' Camaros).

But for yourself to ride- start with a better frame.

I mean it seriously- pretty much everyone here wants you to build an inspirational bike. We want to HELP you build an inspirational bike. Put your location in your profile (even "SE Michigan" or whatever)- hell, someone here might give you a sweet frame. I've been here for like 8 years, and the generosity and helpfulness still astounds me.

Tomsl923833

I found a couple of likely possibilities in long cage derailleurs in the low buck range around $19 or less. The 1st one is a suntour cyclone gt and, the other is a suntour ecx or, exc accushift. Regardless they are both for mountain bike applications. It doesn't matter as long as it's the right part for my particular bike... Right???

Tomsl923833

Mine isn't built in it appears to be a hanger. I think the build in ones have the round hole that the spring attaches to. Mine has a hanger that attaches to the lug w/ a slotted nut and, a cap screw.

Sammy 607

Hi,
You seem to be pretty familiar with the 1987 Schwinn World. Mine isn't a World Sport which is what I've seen mostly on this forum. Mine has the Suntour 7 rear derailleur. Do you have any suggestions on a decent replacement derailleur and what kind of claw I need (if any)?
Thanks!

The Golden Boy 

Hey Sammy-

I just know I had a 1984 World Sport. Looking at the 1987 Schwinn catalog picture- the derailleur seems to have the regular Suntour claw hanger- if you've got the hanger on your derailleur, you can just unscrew the derailleur from the hanger claw. Realistically, you can use most any derailleur you choose.

https://waterfordbikes.com/SchwinnCa...0/1987_10.html

About the derailleur... why do you want to replace it? You can get fancier and lighter derailleurs- but most Suntour derailleurs shift really well- from the entry level to the top of the line. If you're getting the itch to "upgrade" your bike, you may be better served in finding a different frame to upgrade... Again, I don't mean that to be rude or insulting- but I wouldn't want to throw a bunch of money into a project that's not going to have a positive outcome.

If you want to do it as a project just to do it- great! Lots of people here will love to help you with it!!!

Sammy 607

Hi Golden Boy,
Thanks for your quick reply. The reason I wanted to get a new derailleur was because it seems to be having issues when shifting and sometimes the chain even pops off. I'm assuming that is the derailleur that is causing it. I'm not sure if I can adjust it or if it's best just to replace it. I've had that bike 33 years and I like it. I've heard nothing but good things about my existing derailleur. I wasn't looking to put a lot of money into it. I guess I was thinking that maybe it's time to replace a 33 year old derailleur? If it could be adjusted I would. What are your thoughts?
Scott

madpogue 

Rear shifting issues, esp. with friction shifting, are just as likely to be related to the chain or freewheel as the derailleur. I would start with the chain, as it's the most "consumable" of the components in question, and easiest to source and replace. Get an accurate ruler and put it on a straight length of the chain that's at least 12 inches. Center the zero line of the ruler on one of the pins. Keep the chain taut, and count out 12 full (wide + narrow) links, and look where that last pin lines up on the ruler. If it's more than 1/16" beyond the 12" mark, the chain is elongated to its service limit and should be replaced. That may be all you need to do. If it's a LOT past 1/16" over, then the elongated chain has probably worn the freewheel to the point where it should be replaced as well. But start with the chain.

Sammy 607

Thanks again for the quick reply! I'll check that out first. Hopefully that is the problem.
Sammy

mplsbiker

Any Suntour GT would be great and if you can find one at a decent price sub40$ I would say hands down go with a Suntour GT-V Luxe.

Sammy 607

Thanks for the suggestion.

mplsbiker

no problem, they are one of best shifting friction derailleur I have used.