Motorbikes don't use Double Butted spokes
#1
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Motorbikes don't use Double Butted spokes
If a motorcycle uses straight gauge spokes, why not on a bicycle? I propose the idea of db spokes as stronger to be a myth. Never have had issues with straight 2.0 Champions, but as soon as I go to 2.0/1.8 db they start to snap at the heads.
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However, there is nothing wrong with using straight gauge spokes on a bicycle.
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The claim is that they are more durable, because the thinned center with gradual transitions is better able to accomodate stress than the threads or the bend at the head. You'll see this design elsewhere in threaded fasteners for some applications. Threads, rolled or otherwise, are a stress riser. Same with bends.
Edit: Also, motorbikes are usually less concerned about weight, and more concerned about wheel failure that the spoke gauges used are probably overkill.
Edit: Also, motorbikes are usually less concerned about weight, and more concerned about wheel failure that the spoke gauges used are probably overkill.
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I've had the opposite experience. All my DB spokes have stayed intact and held up quite well over the years. Never a broken head. But straight gauge? I've broken quite a few heads off over the years on standard 14g/2.0mm spokes. I suspect the key is quality of the spoke and tensioning. Not many builders properly tension DB spokes and fail to prep the spoke threads and holes in the rim to allow proper tensioning to occur with minimal twist. But I find the DB spokes to tension elastically and hold that tension so that even with a heavy rider like me, the spoke never gets fully unloaded and reversed into compression, even when I stand and sprint uphill which is when I break most spokes which are the leading (not the trailing ones) on the drive side rear. Also, with DB spokes, they are primarily available under quality brands with good head designs that don't break easily. Some discount/bulk straight gauge spokes I use for super cheap wheels for kids and light riders run about $0.13 each and work great except for clydes where the spokes will break after 1000 - 1500 miles or so. Mr. Rabbit noted that most of the ones I referred to have elbows leading to heads with too great a radius, and in comparing to DT or Wheelsmith, I admit, these are greater radius. My current experiment has been to re-lace the drive side spokes with a small copper washer under the head to fill that tension per suggestion I adapted from Sheldon Brown to see if that can resolve issues of spoke head radius and get these spokes to last longer. I'm just about to enter 1000 miles when I should see more spokes breaking, so we'll see if this helps. but the spokes are straight gauge. I hope it doesn't confuse the point of this thread... DB versus Straight Gauge. But I wanted to inject that spoke quality may have some major impact as well.
#6
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I don't think anyone claims that double butted is STRONGER than straight gauge, they are lighter and strong enough in the areas they are stressed on a bicycle. Motorcycles are a very different animal (considerably heavier and more power) and weight savings isn't really an issue. Even on a race motorcycle the few grams difference in weight is not going to matter at all.
However, there is nothing wrong with using straight gauge spokes on a bicycle.
However, there is nothing wrong with using straight gauge spokes on a bicycle.
So without any engineering knowledge of how spoked motorcycle wheels work, I would suggest we need to at least consider the following possibilities:
a) The lightest motorcycle rim is probably built like a tank compared to the heaviest bicycle rim. Meaning it could be easier to tension a straight gauge spoke enough so that is has the "right" amount of pre-stretch given the loads it is designed to experience.
b) Motorcycle propulsion is a lot different than pedaling in that you probably have a lot more consistent driving torque, rather than hundreds of thousands of cycles of stretch-relax-stretch, so the elasticity of the spoke might be less important.
P.S. I have a wheel laced with straight gauge spokes on the drive side and DB on the non-drive. I forget the rationale for doing this, but it was enough to persuade me at the time I built it I think it had something to do with giving a better balance of spoke tension. Hopefully I won't regret it.
Last edited by Metaluna; 06-26-13 at 02:18 PM.
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People don't claim they are stronger, but they DO claim that they last longer, due to the increased elasticity of the middle section. This allows the spoke to stretch more for a given tension, lessening the chance of it going completely slack during certain parts of the pedal stroke, which is what causes fatigue and breakage.
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Motorbkes don't use double butted tubing on the frames,either.
Same reasons.
In bicycle applications, frame tubes as well as spokes, you put the meat where the strength and stresses require it,
and remove weight from where it is not essential.
Same reasons.
In bicycle applications, frame tubes as well as spokes, you put the meat where the strength and stresses require it,
and remove weight from where it is not essential.
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Well considering that a well built wheel's (trued and balanced) lifespan exceeds that of the rim's lifespan (from braking wear) I doubt that such possible subtleties matter. But the OP's attempt at myth debunking stated the myth was that DB spokes were stronger than straight gauge. That clearly is not the case.
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P.S. I have a wheel laced with straight gauge spokes on the drive side and DB on the non-drive. I forget the rationale for doing this, but it was enough to persuade me at the time I built it I think it had something to do with giving a better balance of spoke tension. Hopefully I won't regret it.
Hi,
The drive side always has the most spoke tension, the other side less.
In terms of the optimum tension of spokes you will get a better balance
using skinnier spokes in the non-drive side with symmetrical lacing.
rgds, sreten.
#12
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Alrighty, it seems "stronger" was the incorrect term to use. How about "fatigue resistant"? Makes no sense to me, but I am not a stress analyst or engineer! I do know straight spokes work really, really well in the applications I have used them. I also know from experience that low grade spokes don't last as long as top shelf DT.
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I guess you are reading an awful lot into that other post, as he wasn't saying either of those things. Yes, DB spokes being STRONGER IS a myth; no, no wheel, no matter how well built, lasts forever. Even Gravy had to replace some spokes on his wheels from time to time.
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Road motorcycles with any performance pretensions don't have spokes. They have single-piece cast alloy rims. This goes along with having tubeless tires.
Offroad motorcycles still have spoke rims because they fail safe and work well with tubes.
Cruisers have spoke rims for the same reason 1980's Cadillacs have spoke hubcaps.
Offroad motorcycles still have spoke rims because they fail safe and work well with tubes.
Cruisers have spoke rims for the same reason 1980's Cadillacs have spoke hubcaps.
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When you deflect a rim far enough to make spokes in the area slack it looses horizontal support, can shift off center, and collapse when it springs back.
You can deflect the rim farther with thinner spokes (whether in their center section or entire length) before that happens and take a bigger hit.
This allows the spoke to stretch more for a given tension, lessening the chance of it going completely slack during certain parts of the pedal stroke, which is what causes fatigue and breakage.
a) The lightest motorcycle rim is probably built like a tank compared to the heaviest bicycle rim. Meaning it could be easier to tension a straight gauge spoke enough so that is has the "right" amount of pre-stretch given the loads it is designed to experience.
b) Motorcycle propulsion is a lot different than pedaling in that you probably have a lot more consistent driving torque, rather than hundreds of thousands of cycles of stretch-relax-stretch, so the elasticity of the spoke might be less important.
P.S. I have a wheel laced with straight gauge spokes on the drive side and DB on the non-drive.
Some sort of conventional wisdom suggested that configuration although I think 2.0/1.5 spokes on both sides would have worked as well.
I forget the rationale for doing this, but it was enough to persuade me at the time I built it I think it had something to do with giving a better balance of spoke tension. Hopefully I won't regret it.
Given a rim that's not moving to one side (which will quickly eliminate any imbalance) the force vector components parallel to the axle must sum to zero implying equal magnitude between the sides.
A steeper angle means a smaller fraction of tension in the horizontal direction so the drive side has more tension.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 06-26-13 at 05:26 PM.
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Alpina
Most do, some do not.
https://www.alpinaraggi.it/en/catalog/50339
...mostly because 400lbs and 100 horsepower.
https://www.alpinaraggi.it/en/catalog/50339
...mostly because 400lbs and 100 horsepower.
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Jobst Brandt has a set of spokes which have gone 300,000 miles.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 06-26-13 at 05:28 PM.
#19
Constant tinkerer
I don't think anyone's pointed this out yet, but a 2.0 straight gauge spoke has the exact same head size as a 2.0/1.8/2.0 butted spoke. So if you're breaking DB spokes at the head, they weren't tensioned enough.
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How about this. Any wheel built with the proper number of spokes that are of sufficient size/strength for the desired loads that is built properly (tensioned, balanced, and stress relieved) will last longer than it takes for the braking surface of the rim to wear through. In short, double/triple butted versus straight gauge doesn't matter except for looks and weight.
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One of the earliest makers and promoters of waged (double butted) spokes was the Torington Company of Connecticut.
Interestingly they promoted the concept, not as stronger or lighter, but less expensive.
Understand that the typical steels used for spokes have a shear strength of about 80% the tensile strength. Likewise the thread pf a 2mm spoke has a root diameter of about 1.8mm. So operating under the theory that a chain is no stronger than it's weakest link, any material in the middle of a spoke beyond 80% of the elbow diameter, or the root of the thread (whichever is lower) is wasted material, and a 2/1.6/2.0mm spoke will be as strong as a 2mm plain gauge spoke.
Torrington wasn't as concerned about weight per se, but better use of pricey high strength steels and was selling their butted spokes at the same or lower price than competitors plain spokes.
The info above applies only to strength. However rigidity is a function of the average cross section, so butted spokes build a wheel with flex properties comparable to plain spokes of the thin section.
Lastly is the issue of fatigue, where butted spokes shine. All things being equal, the thinner mid section of butted spokes take up more of the deflections, and so tend to prolong the fatigue life of the ends.
So, no matter how you slice it, the fact that butted spokes are superior when we consider strength, weight & fatigue life is no myth. But fortunately all types of spokes are still available, so you don't have to accept this and can still buy whatever spoke you want.
Interestingly they promoted the concept, not as stronger or lighter, but less expensive.
Understand that the typical steels used for spokes have a shear strength of about 80% the tensile strength. Likewise the thread pf a 2mm spoke has a root diameter of about 1.8mm. So operating under the theory that a chain is no stronger than it's weakest link, any material in the middle of a spoke beyond 80% of the elbow diameter, or the root of the thread (whichever is lower) is wasted material, and a 2/1.6/2.0mm spoke will be as strong as a 2mm plain gauge spoke.
Torrington wasn't as concerned about weight per se, but better use of pricey high strength steels and was selling their butted spokes at the same or lower price than competitors plain spokes.
The info above applies only to strength. However rigidity is a function of the average cross section, so butted spokes build a wheel with flex properties comparable to plain spokes of the thin section.
Lastly is the issue of fatigue, where butted spokes shine. All things being equal, the thinner mid section of butted spokes take up more of the deflections, and so tend to prolong the fatigue life of the ends.
So, no matter how you slice it, the fact that butted spokes are superior when we consider strength, weight & fatigue life is no myth. But fortunately all types of spokes are still available, so you don't have to accept this and can still buy whatever spoke you want.
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FB
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Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
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#22
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How long is a MC spoke?
What gauge?
Very different operating conditions, where the MC spoke is, relatively speaking, VERY short.
What gauge?
Very different operating conditions, where the MC spoke is, relatively speaking, VERY short.
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Your problem isn't that your spokes are butted, your wheel is inadequately tensioned. Due to their compliance in the middle, butted spokes are actually less likely to fail at the head angle than non-butted counterparts, all other things being equal.
#25
Senior Member
Alrighty, it seems "stronger" was the incorrect term to use. How about "fatigue resistant"? Makes no sense to me, but I am not a stress analyst or engineer! I do know straight spokes work really, really well in the applications I have used them. I also know from experience that low grade spokes don't last as long as top shelf DT.
Here is some spoke information from the folks who actually use them.
https://www.wheelbuilder.com/spoke-information.html
Last edited by Delmarva; 06-27-13 at 10:39 AM.