vintagerando

What compatibility issues will I have if I want to take an 80s era steel frame (road) and equip it with a modern drive-train, brakes and wheels? Or am I over thinking this?
Fire away.

CliffordK

• Dropout Spacing, 120, 126, or 130mm.
• 27" vs 700c wheels (vs something else).
• Drilling for brake mount may be different.
• 1" threaded stem vs 1 1/8 threadless stem.
• Clamp-on Front derailleur vs Braze-On.
• Different seatpost sizes?
• English, French, or Italian threading. Also different crown race sizes.

Nothing would be insurmountable.

NYMXer

Why not just restore your 80s era bike and find yourself a brand-new one in your price range with the money you were going to use to upgrade your older bike .
I think in the end you'll be much happier and you'll have two bikes

Bill Kapaun

From what country? Some threadings are real oddballs and make for expensive parts.
Does it have a RDER hangar? I wouldn't start if it didn't.

cpach

I respectfully disagree. While I think it's questionable if a older frame has components on it, if you have access to a bare frame (or one with nonfunctional components) modern parts make as much sense as anything. In frankness, newer drivetrain components have a number of very real advantages (integrated shifters, better quality brakes, saner gear ratios for recreational cyclists), but modern frames offer questionable advantages over good steel frames of the past. Truthfully, you must pay considerably more for a modern steel frameset than an equivalent quality vintage frame, and lugs are uncommon among modern, non-custom steel frames, which have a distinct visual appeal.

I was given a high end, early 80s Basso frame, properly respaced the rear triangle, and built it up with a hodgepodge of semi-modern parts (8sp RSX shifters, 6600 front triple derailleur, 5600 rear derailleur, 600 dual pivot brakes, 9sp Tiagra triple crank, Shimano RS10 wheels). It is a joy to ride. While the parts are frankly worse than my Cannondale Supersix, it's got a fantastic ride quality, and in particular is especially intuitive to descend on for me. I wouldn't have it any other way (well, except even better modern parts).

So, yeah, OP, it's totally doable, and in my opinion advisable if you have a genuinely good frame. Slightly strange threading stuff isn't even that bad--Italian BBs are widely available, and even French/Swiss/Martian BBs can be had from Velo Orange and the like.

vintagerando

I know I am all over the place with this question. This is where I am coming from. I have a couple "vintage" road bikes,70s- 80s. But with 5 and 6 speed free wheels, friction shifting, hills are tough and I am constantly tweaking, adjusting, etc. Hey, I love working on bikes. But my free time is limited. I want clean, crisp shifting. (Maybe I am not such a great mechanic.) I want to be able to climb hills, something I truly enjoy, maybe more than speeding down them. But I also appreciate and love the workmanship of 70s, 80s lugged steel bikes. So, I have researched having a frame built; forget it. Where I am in life right now, house, car payment, two kids. No way I could afford a custom steel bike, be it TIG welded, lugged, brazed. No way I could afford it. So, why not take a beautiful older frame, a Merckx, a Paramount, etc and put modern components on it. Maybe I am not realistic. But, say $600 buys you a nice classic frame. Than a new group set: Ultegra $700, SRAM Force $700. I have plenty of parts to finish from there, including wheels. So, maybe $1500 for a bike built this way. See where I a coming from.

vintagerando

Yes....this is my line of thinking.

NYMXer

This is what makes the world go around, different opinions and points of view. I respect your right to your opinion, I hope that you respect my right to mine.

wedgeSG

If you haven't already...See the thread "Retro Roadies - old frames with STI's or Ergos" in Classic and Vintage. I did a cruiser bike with transplanted 10 speed parts first. Fun to look at, great fun to build, not so much fun to ride. Next came an Old Browning. Upgraded or replaced everything but still nothing really improved much other than braking and comfort bits. Still, it's a hoot to ride and reminds one of how it felt back in the day. Working on an 80's Bianchi now. With what I've learned, this one's going a bit further with Ultegra 6700, nice Fulcrums and Vittorias, Carbon fork...etc. Really looking forward to riding it when finished. If nothing else, the frame is a place holder. Nice parts can always be moved to a different project. What CliffordK listed in his post, first time through those can be a bit daunting...next time it's just what you do to get started, and won't cause much concern at all. I love the looks of disbelief carbon riders give me when they realize very similar parts to what's hung on their new bike are on my 40year old steel, yard sale refugee. It's all fun, and remarkably satisfying, to speed around on something that works like a current offering, but looks so unique and yet fondly remembered at the same time.

Steiner74

it would all depennd if you are changing the number of cogs on the free wheel or going from a double to a triple chain ring and vise versa. but for the most part the 27 inch wheels that you find that are 5,6,7 speed are generally the same. its usually when you get above six in the rear that you start running into issues. but on old steel stretching the chainstays is not that big of a project. and fricton shifting is great if your derailers keep falling out try tightening your shifters if not just a simple up grade just gotta get the cable stays and thats a matter of if you have braze on or clamp on shifters. but i would say go for it there is nothing wrong with updating and older frame. they were made good with care and its steel it will last longer than you. have fun

CafeVelo

There are a few ways of doing it, I've done them all to my schwinn super sport. The first is to hang some 7/8 speed shimano parts and use a 7 speed freewheel. Change basically nothing but get integrated shifters. The next is a new group with a modern wheel, which requires spreading the back or pulling it apart each time you put in the wheel. The final way is to strip the frame, align the rear to 130 and accordingly along the derailer hanger, paint if you need to, and rebuild it to a completely modern standard. That method yielded me a 20-21 lb bike (because of the cheap wheels I used) with a threadless carbon fork, and campagnolo 11 speed parts. It's my favorite bike, and it looks new even though it's a 30 year old frame. The ride is sublime. Once you strip the frame completely it's no different than building any other frame (unless you have a weird BB standard. I spent under $1000 on the whole thing, you can't buy a new bike this nice for under a grand.

Homebrew01

I modernized the drivetrains on 2 of my 80s road bikes. No big deal. I just grunt the rear dropouts open when inserting the wheel. 1 is a Cannondale, so can't coldset the frame.
My budget coversions were about $350 each with a mix of new and lightly used parts.

On 1 bike I am still using the 80s "five speed" crank without problems. Both still use 80s Campy front derailleur, which requires a bit more cable pull due to the wider cage. They shift fine though.

dedhed

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...i-s-ergos.html

In doing this twice the first thing I do is know what I have for the frame. The major things are BB threading and width, rear spacing and tire size/brake reach. All can be dealt with fairly easily and cheaply. Not having a deep parts box of "modern" stuff I usually will search Ebay and sales for lightly used complete groups, often "takeoffs". This gets me stuff which works together without issue. Being patient helps a lot to get good deals. Stem/handlebar diameters.
AS said mid 80's and up frames are very good candidates as they are usually English BB, 700 wheels to start, recessed brake mounting, and at least 126 spaced. I generally prefer to drill brake bridges and forks for recessed mounting if needed.

Things I've had to do - drill bridges & forks, file brake slots rather than buy longer reach calipers so I have a complete group. I like to get braze on FD's and buy the correct size clamp for the tube. I've never had to respace a late 80's early 90's frame and could get a 130mm wheel in without issue.

CafeVelo

Or get a frame from a co-op. Without time invested to fix it, they're not going to be too attached, probably $50 or less. Then get a used group or new entry level and some cheap wheels. You're not spending much more than $500. If you want to go cheap.

Homebrew01

Are you thinking of converting a bike you have, or getting a vintage bike for the purpose of converting ?
You say you have wheels, but you will need a modern rear wheel. Plenty of decent used stuff available that will get you going.

Retro Grouch 

I don't think that your thinking is basic enough. What are you trying to accomplish?

1. You want to have a classic or vintage bicycle that you can ride.
2. You want a modern functioning bike but at a bargain cost.
3. You enjoy the resto-modding process.

Those are 3 quite different things. Once you figure out which one best describes you, I think you'll find that everything else falls into place.

I'm a #3 . The classic and vintage guys hate people like me because I'll chop up and repaint anything to make it fit my vision.

Aubergine 

I love playing around with bikes, so I will update old bikes, backdate newer bikes, and put together just about any bike with parts from several eras or countries. I enjoy riding the bikes all the more for it, too.

It shouldn't matter what you do to your bikes, except of course to YOU.

vintagerando

Good summary of the options. I would select 1 and 2, both.

fietsbob

Friction shifting and period derailleurs , still works in the modern era though it may requite a little more involvement
physically and mentally , since you are not turning a lot of that over to some engineers around Osaka or Taipei.
so you wont have to.

Homebrew01

Go for it.

cny-bikeman

If you don't have the frame already on hand then 1 and 2 together is not likely possible Taking a vintage frame and purchasing/installing modern components is not going to occur at a bargain cost, unless you are lucky enough to find a high-quality vintage frame of the correct size and a lot of used parts in near-mint condition.

NukeouT

I am building an Android app called Sprocket for this. It already lists spec. sheets for 33K bikes you can use to determine parts compatibility.

https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...sprocket&hl=en

The easiest way to build/upgrade a bike is to stay within the same standards, IE finding bikes with parts or parts that are: 1" threaded headset for 1" threaded headset, JIS 68mmBB/Crank for JIS 68mmBB/Crank...

The second easiest is learning simple cross-compatibility: 5-6-7sp English freewheels are cross compatible, 126 drops can be spread to 130, 1" threaded headsets can be converted to handle threadless stems... etc.

Its primarily when you try to fit modern BB/Cranks and 11sp drivetrains onto a 70s Raleigh or something, when youre going to start to run into serious time/money issues.

If youre thinking of commissioning a frame, go the other way at it by picking your dream drivetrain first and then telling your frame builder what you want to use so they can set up the platform to handle your compatibility needs.

vintagerando

I disagree. Today, saw a bike on Craiglist with a full Shimano 105 with STI; asking $100. The bike looks hardly used. So, there is a "modern" group set, $100. Maybe get it for less. Ok, on to a frame. What does $400 or $500 buy you on ebay? A darn good vintage frame. So, we are well below $1000. I would consider that affordable/

jyl

Modern groups are available on eBay as take-offs, for a range of prices to fit any budget. For example, an Ultegra 6700 or 6800 group goes for around $650. A Centaur carbon group around $600. 105 and Veloce are less, like $400-500. The main thing to check will be bottom bracket compatibility, you may be buying cups for 68 mm threaded.

Frames cost less, usually. Just to pick a brand, lovely vintage steel Pinarellos go for $300 to $600.

Wheels are often best bought locally (Craigslist), because shipping is costly and you can check the condition in person. Building your own wheelset is another option.

I think a nice retro-roadie can definitely be pieced together for $1000.

ninjabrewer

I have recently done exactly this. I have a Pinarello, Record Equipe, that I got back in the mid 80's. Had Campy record, Rigida rims, 42/53 front, 13-24 rear, Cinelli bar and stem. Built up a set of DT Swiss RR440 wheels, asymmetric rear, Miche Racing box hubs and Campy Athena brifters, Front and Rear Derailleurs, Crank - 36/50, chorus chain and cassette -12-29, skeleton brakes (would you believe they were made in Taiwan). I honestly can't believe how much better it rides, shifts much better and rides smooth as butter. My main reason for upgrading, my old knees didn't like the gears anymore, (they were much easier to ride when I was 18). I also really didn't want to get rid of the bike, I worked in a bike shop during the summer and Christmas for credit to get this bike, (all tho the frame is about 2 cm too big.) To the OP, it isn't difficult at all. I bought the parts new, a part at a time, instead of all at once. As has been mentioned a few times, ebay has a bunch of parts for sale, Shimano, Campy and SRAM, used, new, take offs, etc. Any questions, let me know.

nb