Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Do I need to change my crankset to get a 50t chainring?

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Do I need to change my crankset to get a 50t chainring?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-09-16, 07:25 PM
  #1  
sumbikerguy123
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Do I need to change my crankset to get a 50t chainring?

I have a 2004 Specialized Crossroads Hybrid. The triple chainrings are stock 48x38x28t with a 4-bolt pattern.

The Bottom Bracket is: TH Sport, square taper, 68mm shell, 113mm spindle, sealed cartridge.

The bike has a Shimano 7-speed HG41 (CS725) 11-28t cassette.

I want to see if I can get a bit more speed with a 50t ring, if compatible or available?

I lack knowledge in this area, so I'm not sure what, if any, options I might have here?

A compact crank would be nice, but...?

Any suggestions appreciated, thanks Sumbikerguy123.
sumbikerguy123 is offline  
Old 01-09-16, 07:32 PM
  #2  
Homebrew01
Super Moderator
 
Homebrew01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,889

Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales

Liked 1,013 Times in 648 Posts
48x11 is a pretty big gear. 50 is 4% bigger. How fast do you go ?
I have a 53x12 (about the same as 48x11) and once I hit 40 mph or so downhill, I think I go faster, with less effort by tucking and coasting.

What model crankset ?
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.

FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html

Last edited by Homebrew01; 01-09-16 at 07:36 PM.
Homebrew01 is offline  
Old 01-09-16, 10:27 PM
  #3  
sumbikerguy123
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Homebrew01
48x11 is a pretty big gear. 50 is 4% bigger. How fast do you go ?
I have a 53x12 (about the same as 48x11) and once I hit 40 mph or so downhill, I think I go faster, with less effort by tucking and coasting.

What model crankset ?
R. I don't go fast at all on the hybrid unless I have wind to my back or going down a steep bridge, then its nice to have a 50t.

I don't know what model the crankset is, only info I could get from the Specialized Archives is: Specialized Forearm. I don't know what this means, if anything?

Best info I can give is in my OP.

Thanks!
sumbikerguy123 is offline  
Old 01-10-16, 06:39 AM
  #4  
Bezalel
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: City of Brotherly Love
Posts: 1,562

Bikes: Raleigh Companion, Nashbar Touring, Novara DiVano, Trek FX 7.1, Giant Upland

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The TA Chinook chainring is available in 50 tooth 104 BCD but it can be hard to find and will will probably exceed the capacity of your FD. IMHO it's a too big expense for such a small gain.

Edit: Just looked up the bike specs and I'd be surprised if the chainrings aren't riveted on.
Bezalel is offline  
Old 01-10-16, 09:32 AM
  #5  
sumbikerguy123
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Bezalel
The TA Chinook chainring is available in 50 tooth 104 BCD but it can be hard to find and will will probably exceed the capacity of your FD. IMHO it's a too big expense for such a small gain.

Edit: Just looked up the bike specs and I'd be surprised if the chainrings aren't riveted on.

R. Thanks! My chainrings are hex bolted together.

My front derailleur is also bolted on, so it can slide it up or down to meet the size of larger ring.

I don't have calipers to correctly measure my BCD, but I rough measured with a ruler an looks like approximately 2.5" center bolt to center bolt across.

I'll check out the 104 BCD Chinook chainring anyway. What expense do you figure this chainring cost?

Thanks again!
sumbikerguy123 is offline  
Old 01-11-16, 02:28 PM
  #6  
ypsetihw
Senior Member
 
ypsetihw's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 1,109

Bikes: s-1

Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
total waste of money, you won't really go much faster at all. you could easily spin up that difference by increasing your cadence. if you want to go faster, don't push a harder gear, push a smaller gear around more quickly. SPIN!

with that said, I would say find a bike store that has a spare parts bin, and buy a 53T chainring used for under $10, that way if you don't like it or it doesn't work, you won't be out much money. plus 53 will be different enough from the 48 that you will notice it.

also, tires make a HUGE difference. what kind of tires are you riding? smooth tread, narrow, higher pressure tires will have much lower rolling resistance than knobby wide hybrid tires. this change would make a bigger difference than 2 teeth on the chainring.
ypsetihw is offline  
Old 01-11-16, 02:32 PM
  #7  
nfmisso
Nigel
 
nfmisso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 2,991

Bikes: 1980s and 1990s steel: CyclePro, Nishiki, Schwinn, SR, Trek........

Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times in 7 Posts
Originally Posted by sumbikerguy123
.......My front derailleur is also bolted on, so it can slide it up or down to meet the size of larger ring. ......
That is NOT the issue - the problem is the radius of the curve on the underside of the FD maybe to tight to work properly with a 50T front ring. Look up the specifications of your front derailleur.

My commuter runs a 52-39 double with a 14-32 custom 8 speed rear cassette to best suit me and my present commute. There is one hill I need to the 39/32 combination (with 35-622 tire). 52-14 (equivalent to 48-13) is only useful downhill or with a very strong tail wind.
nfmisso is offline  
Old 01-11-16, 06:27 PM
  #8  
cny-bikeman
Mechanic/Tourist
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 7,522

Bikes: 2008 Novara Randonee - love it. Previous bikes:Motobecane Mirage, 1972 Moto Grand Jubilee (my fave), Jackson Rake 16, 1983 C'dale ST500.

Liked 11 Times in 11 Posts
For that 4% larger gear that you can only use downhill you will be raising ALL of your gears with that chainring by 4%, possibly making the 12 tooth slightly less useable as well. You will not go faster - if you can't manage to pedal 4% faster on the 48 tooth the 50 will not make you any more able to put out that amount of power.
cny-bikeman is offline  
Old 01-11-16, 06:38 PM
  #9  
CafeVelo
Senior Member
 
CafeVelo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,040

Bikes: S-Works Tarmac, Nashbar CX, Trek 2200 trainer bike, Salsa Casseroll commuter, old school FS MTB

Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by cny-bikeman
For that 4% larger gear that you can only use downhill you will be raising ALL of your gears with that chainring by 4%, possibly making the 12 tooth slightly less useable as well. You will not go faster - if you can't manage to pedal 4% faster on the 48 tooth the 50 will not make you any more able to put out that amount of power.
+1. I've be n riding my cross bike lately because the weather has been crap, large gear is 48/12. For general riding it's actually a more useful setup for me than my race crank, and have considered switching my other bikes, but when I'm flying downhill or in a fast pack I need that top end that's cut off by the 48.
CafeVelo is offline  
Old 01-11-16, 07:03 PM
  #10  
sumbikerguy123
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by ypsetihw
I would say find a bike store that has a spare parts bin, and buy a 53T chainring used for under $10, that way if you don't like it or it doesn't work, you won't be out much money. plus 53 will be different enough from the 48 that you will notice it.

R. Good idea, but does anyone make a 53t ring that would fit my 4 bolt ring pattern?

also, tires make a HUGE difference. what kind of tires are you riding?
R. Vittoria Voyager Hyper 700x 32c tires, pretty decent tires.
sumbikerguy123 is offline  
Old 01-11-16, 07:17 PM
  #11  
CafeVelo
Senior Member
 
CafeVelo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,040

Bikes: S-Works Tarmac, Nashbar CX, Trek 2200 trainer bike, Salsa Casseroll commuter, old school FS MTB

Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by sumbikerguy123
R. Vittoria Voyager Hyper 700x 32c tires, pretty decent tires.
With a 4 arm spider it's definitely not worth your time or money. You'll spend a lot and get very, very little. You would probably feel more of a difference if you didn't use a touring tire.
CafeVelo is offline  
Old 01-11-16, 07:22 PM
  #12  
sumbikerguy123
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by nfmisso
That is NOT the issue - the problem is the radius of the curve on the underside of the FD maybe to tight to work properly with a 50T front ring. Look up the specifications of your front derailleur.

R. Gotcha. FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano C-051, 28.6mm clamp, bottom pull

My commuter runs a 52-39 double with a 14-32 custom 8 speed rear cassette to best suit me and my present commute. There is one hill I need to the 39/32 combination (with 35-622 tire). 52-14 (equivalent to 48-13) is only useful downhill or with a very strong tail wind.
R. Basically why I would want or use a 48-50t ring for those rare times you would have a tail wind or going down a steep decline.

Thanks.
sumbikerguy123 is offline  
Old 01-11-16, 07:24 PM
  #13  
sumbikerguy123
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by cny-bikeman
For that 4% larger gear that you can only use downhill you will be raising ALL of your gears with that chainring by 4%, possibly making the 12 tooth slightly less useable as well. You will not go faster - if you can't manage to pedal 4% faster on the 48 tooth the 50 will not make you any more able to put out that amount of power.
R. Thanks.
sumbikerguy123 is offline  
Old 01-11-16, 07:36 PM
  #14  
sumbikerguy123
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by CafeVelo
With a 4 arm spider it's definitely not worth your time or money. You'll spend a lot and get very, very little.

R. You may be right. Can a 4 arm crank be changed to a 5 arm/bolt crank?

You would probably feel more of a difference if you didn't use a touring tire.
R. I felt quite a bit of difference with the Voyager tires over the stock sized 700x38c tires that came with the bike. The Voyagers are lighter, narrower, and roll a lot better/faster than the 700x38 stock tires and have almost a road bike feel to them.

What tires do you recommend?

Thanks.
sumbikerguy123 is offline  
Old 01-11-16, 07:40 PM
  #15  
CafeVelo
Senior Member
 
CafeVelo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,040

Bikes: S-Works Tarmac, Nashbar CX, Trek 2200 trainer bike, Salsa Casseroll commuter, old school FS MTB

Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
I recommend the best tire you can obtain, realistically in a 28mm for a hybrid wheel. A GP4000, vittoria open corsa, or any other top level tire will make a real difference in your ride.
CafeVelo is offline  
Old 01-11-16, 07:44 PM
  #16  
sumbikerguy123
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Originally Posted by CafeVelo
+1. I've be n riding my cross bike lately because the weather has been crap, large gear is 48/12. For general riding it's actually a more useful setup for me than my race crank, and have considered switching my other bikes, but when I'm flying downhill or in a fast pack I need that top end that's cut off by the 48.
R. Try a 48/11.
sumbikerguy123 is offline  
Old 01-13-16, 07:41 PM
  #17  
NukeouT
Senior Member
 
NukeouT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 446

Bikes: 1996 LeMond Yellow Jersey, 2013 Soma Saga, 1980 Zebrakenko Wind, 1980 Nishiki Ultimate

Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Sprocket says its a Specialized Forearm Triple too Sprocket: Share

Google search says nothing specific about the BCD of a Specialized Forearm crank though. One way you can tell without measuring is by taking a chainring you know has a 130 or a 110 or whichever BCD and seeing if the holes line up.
NukeouT is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Yan
Touring
33
05-15-16 10:29 PM
knee high
Bicycle Mechanics
2
09-28-14 05:07 PM
mowyang
Classic & Vintage
14
01-21-14 08:55 PM
StabbyJoe89
Bicycle Mechanics
26
03-21-13 08:44 PM
ocfixie
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
6
04-05-11 10:44 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.