Trek 710 project
#1
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Thread Starter
Trek 710 project
Yesterday, I bought a frame. No rust, and it's the correct size for me. However, the paint has had no love. Because it doesn't look like I can salvage/restore the paint, I'm leaning toward having the frame powder-coated.
Thoughts? Opinions?
Thanks.
Bob
Thoughts? Opinions?
Thanks.
Bob
#2
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This really isn't bad. I'd touch it up and ride it.
I have two vintage treks in the build queue: a 1983 Trek 720 and a 1978 TX 900. The paint job for both bikes is in significantly worse shape than your bike. I'm thinking of having one of the 2 repainted and touching up the other one. You'd be surprised how good a bike can look if you find (or mix) the right touch up paint.
I have two vintage treks in the build queue: a 1983 Trek 720 and a 1978 TX 900. The paint job for both bikes is in significantly worse shape than your bike. I'm thinking of having one of the 2 repainted and touching up the other one. You'd be surprised how good a bike can look if you find (or mix) the right touch up paint.
#3
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I'm in the same boat with another frame. I'm most likely going to get it powdercoated and get some replacement decals and be done with it.
#6
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Ask your powder coat guy if he can do it without filling in the "Trek" embossed at the top of the seat stays. He should be able to.
Nothing rare or special about this frame, and it's pretty beat up, so I wouldn't hesitate to do it if it was mine and I wanted a nice looking, durable finish on it. If you like the original color, you can get a metalflake blue in PC pretty close to it, I'm sure.
Nothing rare or special about this frame, and it's pretty beat up, so I wouldn't hesitate to do it if it was mine and I wanted a nice looking, durable finish on it. If you like the original color, you can get a metalflake blue in PC pretty close to it, I'm sure.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#7
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It would look fine powdercoated.
#8
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Thread Starter
Ask your powder coat guy if he can do it without filling in the "Trek" embossed at the top of the seat stays. He should be able to.
Nothing rare or special about this frame, and it's pretty beat up, so I wouldn't hesitate to do it if it was mine and I wanted a nice looking, durable finish on it. If you like the original color, you can get a metalflake blue in PC pretty close to it, I'm sure.
Nothing rare or special about this frame, and it's pretty beat up, so I wouldn't hesitate to do it if it was mine and I wanted a nice looking, durable finish on it. If you like the original color, you can get a metalflake blue in PC pretty close to it, I'm sure.
I talked to a shop in Boulder that can cold-set the rear triangle to 130mm from its current 127. It looks like I'll also need them to pull the BB's fixed cup.
Bob
Last edited by engineerbob; 01-18-16 at 04:44 PM.
#9
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OK this is just me , I would get rid of those rack mnt. doughnuts . Then I would sand paper, Scotch Bright , putty filler , sand some more and paint your fav. color and clear coat . But that's just me . And be careful changing out those adjuster screws .
#10
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I think the paint is beautiful. The reason it's chipped up is because it's an old bike that's seen a lot of use. I've built up frames in far worse shape than that and they still ended up looking nice with new bar tape, etc. Just my 2 cents I think it looks about 10x cooler now than with a generic black powdercoat. However it's your bike so do as you see fit.
#11
incazzare.
I dunno. I think these older ones are not that common. Anyway, I have never seen a metal flake PC that looks even close to wet paint. I wouldn't PC it myself. It has a lot of character now and a new PC would reduce that to almost zero, in my opinion.
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#13
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Agreed; the 700 series are not that common and were not made I believe for too many years.
#14
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Originally Posted by markwesti
And be careful changing out those adjuster screws .
Pretty badly bent on the ends, very difficult to thread out that way. I've still got one in my Grandis that won't come out. Best bet is to try and run them back a bit, then drew the bent parts off, then back out forward. Hopefully the screw heads on the axle side aren't all smushed.
I've heard great things about them, I'm sure they're pretty great bikes but it seems they show up here quite a bit. Though I guess that may say more about here. But not so rare that you can't repaint it if you want.
And be careful changing out those adjuster screws .
Pretty badly bent on the ends, very difficult to thread out that way. I've still got one in my Grandis that won't come out. Best bet is to try and run them back a bit, then drew the bent parts off, then back out forward. Hopefully the screw heads on the axle side aren't all smushed.
I've heard great things about them, I'm sure they're pretty great bikes but it seems they show up here quite a bit. Though I guess that may say more about here. But not so rare that you can't repaint it if you want.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 01-18-16 at 11:59 PM. Reason: spell
#15
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700 series are not that common around these parts. I happened to come across one, 760, that was a project frame with rattle can paint job. The decals were masked off. Didn't have the original fork either.
WRT PC. There are good PC shops and hack PC shops. The good one around here is consumed with Military contracts and has effectively closed. He did great work of making sure the details didn't get buried in the thickness of the PC.
Your bike presents a challenge in deciding what to do about the paint. When I bought my Colnago, I was going to PC it. That was in 2009. It has not been touched as it is original only once and has tons of character, patina. From a distance, it looks pretty good. It will not be touched.
A Pinarello Tre Crime was picked up a couple of years ago. Not only were the decals missing but the pant was really shot. After stripping, the decision was deemed a good one. There was rust under the paint that was not visible. Having said that, we are not talking about Italian paint here but likely Imron. I stripped a 610 that was a super challenge. No rust under the paint. It too was a rattle canned to begin with and had rust under the rattle can paint but not the Imron.
My approach now is to leave well enough alone and determine if the bike is a keeper first. If it is, then I approach the question of "restoring" it wrt paint.
IMHO is that a 710 is worth restoring if you are going to keep it for a period of time. Don't remove any parts off the frame that are original regardless of what other say.
WRT PC. There are good PC shops and hack PC shops. The good one around here is consumed with Military contracts and has effectively closed. He did great work of making sure the details didn't get buried in the thickness of the PC.
Your bike presents a challenge in deciding what to do about the paint. When I bought my Colnago, I was going to PC it. That was in 2009. It has not been touched as it is original only once and has tons of character, patina. From a distance, it looks pretty good. It will not be touched.
A Pinarello Tre Crime was picked up a couple of years ago. Not only were the decals missing but the pant was really shot. After stripping, the decision was deemed a good one. There was rust under the paint that was not visible. Having said that, we are not talking about Italian paint here but likely Imron. I stripped a 610 that was a super challenge. No rust under the paint. It too was a rattle canned to begin with and had rust under the rattle can paint but not the Imron.
My approach now is to leave well enough alone and determine if the bike is a keeper first. If it is, then I approach the question of "restoring" it wrt paint.
IMHO is that a 710 is worth restoring if you are going to keep it for a period of time. Don't remove any parts off the frame that are original regardless of what other say.
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Hey Bob , I said that because they appear to be bent with a mounged up thread , so if you were to just back it out it might get stuck and strip the i d thread . I would cut and file to get it all cleaned up before you back it out Also I didn't mean to say putty filler , I meant to say spot filler . spot filler is like a very thick primer and it comes in a tube (auto parts store should have it ) Glazing & Spot Putty 4.5 Oz at National Tool Warehouse to use it first give a good even sand then use the putty to fill the chipped areas , then lightly sand . I hope that helps . I like your frame .
#17
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Why would you drew off the rack mounts on a touring frame?
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#18
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Ask your powder coat guy if he can do it without filling in the "Trek" embossed at the top of the seat stays. He should be able to.
Nothing rare or special about this frame, and it's pretty beat up, so I wouldn't hesitate to do it if it was mine and I wanted a nice looking, durable finish on it. If you like the original color, you can get a metalflake blue in PC pretty close to it, I'm sure.
Nothing rare or special about this frame, and it's pretty beat up, so I wouldn't hesitate to do it if it was mine and I wanted a nice looking, durable finish on it. If you like the original color, you can get a metalflake blue in PC pretty close to it, I'm sure.
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#19
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The more I clean the frame, and see its imperfections up close, the more I like the idea of PC. Other than the "Trek" at the top of the seat stays, I don't need any identifiers: no "Reynolds" decals or even the "Trek" head tube badge. I know what the frame is, nobody else needs that information. Gloss black will work for me.
I talked to a shop in Boulder that can cold-set the rear triangle to 130mm from its current 127. It looks like I'll also need them to pull the BB's fixed cup.
Bob
I talked to a shop in Boulder that can cold-set the rear triangle to 130mm from its current 127. It looks like I'll also need them to pull the BB's fixed cup.
Bob
I'm proud to have old Treks. It's a global company that was started in a barn- this bike was made in that barn. There's an element of history to it, as well as being a cool, high end, functional bike.
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
"But hey, always love to hear from opinionated amateurs." -says some guy to Mr. Marshall.
#20
incazzare.
Absolutely. One of these days I will find a late 70's 7XX or 9XX in my size, at a price I can afford.
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#21
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If the bike isn't that special to you, I'll buy it from you. It seems a shame for it to have gone almost 40 years being an upper tier, Reynolds 531 Trek to just become a powdercoated nameless bike- with no prestige to it.
I'm proud to have old Treks. It's a global company that was started in a barn- this bike was made in that barn. There's an element of history to it, as well as being a cool, high end, functional bike.
I'm proud to have old Treks. It's a global company that was started in a barn- this bike was made in that barn. There's an element of history to it, as well as being a cool, high end, functional bike.
I agree that it is cool, high end, and functional. Back in the late '70s and early '80s, I lusted after Treks but never took the plunge. Over the past few decades, the type of bicycle (responsive yet stable handling) that Trek sold has almost ceased to exist. Of course I would prefer to have found a 710 that had belonged to someone who valued it. But, a full 531 Trek in my size is elusive.
I've restored a few motorcycles, and I can appreciate the sentiment that something is original only once. So let's say that the bike retains its current finish. It still needs everything else. I intend to mount 700c wheels with a 9-speed cassette. The crank will almost certainly be a Sugino XD2. Although I haven't figured out the derailers, the current SunXCD looks promising. Drop bars, Dura Ace bar-end shifters, Brooks B17, Nitto stem. The brakes are a complete unknown. The result will appear period-correct, but it will not be original. It will, however, be very functional and fun to ride. Well, that's my hope.
If I lose interest in the project, I will PM you. FWIW, it is a 1981 710.
Bob
#22
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Pretty badly bent on the ends, very difficult to thread out that way. I've still got one in my Grandis that won't come out. Best bet is to try and run them back a bit, then drew the bent parts off, then back out forward. Hopefully the screw heads on the axle side aren't all smushed.
Thanks for the heads-up.
Bob
#23
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OK , I think I know what you mean GB . Like I said " it's just me " . Besides that they mock me .
Bob , I just put a set of Tektro double pivot brakes on my Centurion Ironman . Not period correct , but they look and work really good and they didn't break the bank .
Bob , I just put a set of Tektro double pivot brakes on my Centurion Ironman . Not period correct , but they look and work really good and they didn't break the bank .
Last edited by markwesti; 01-19-16 at 03:14 PM.
#24
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I think it is great what you are doing. I did that with a Raleigh super course with capella lugs. I built with some new and some new old stock. It has a 8 speed with brifters, dura ace. What I don't like personally is the fixxy craze. I just don't get it. Wouldn't u rather have gears?? make sure the guy u use for the powder coat is reputable. I had mind done by an ex body shop man {so he claimed ** and the clear coat is all peeling and never seemed to dry after weeks. so I may have to tear down again.. I am new to this vintage bike stuff, but the 710 is not too common. I have seen 400,311, never a 710
#25
Senior Member
^^ Well personally, I get the Fixed Gear bike. They have been rolling on the roads for longer then most of us.
Try and find out what we are about.
Now, back to that great looking 710. I say run like you got it.
Try and find out what we are about.
Now, back to that great looking 710. I say run like you got it.