Balverde

Hello,

I am struggling to pick between a road bike for around 1500$. I weigh in at around 90-93 kgs, so seeing all the broken carbon pictures on the internets makes me wonder if a cheap (like in Fuji Transonic 2.9) carbon frame would not crack easily with me on and on some rather bad roads I have locally (not very smooth, but tarmac obviously). Is it safer to buy highend aluminium frame with carbon fork? I mean there must be a reason, why one carbon frame for a Fuji costs about 800$ and a carbon frame for a Specialized Tarmac is 4x more expensive?
Also probably the weight of the bike is not such a big issue as firstly, I dont have much big climbs (well none in fact) around and secondly... with 90kgs I am not going to become a great climber, am I.

Seattle Forrest

You're not going to break a bike frame just by riding it. Crashing it maybe, but try not to do that. The wheels will have trouble long before the frame does.

One reason some frames are more expensive than others is R&D. You can do things making a carbon frame that you can't do with metal, some of them are useful, but not all of them, and it takes time and effort to figure out which ones. A lot of the more expensive frames weigh less because someone figured out where they're subjected to a lot of stress and where they aren't, then removed material from the places that don't need it. Cheaper frames are often overbuilt in some areas, making them slightly heavier than they absolutely have to be, stronger in places that don't matter. Of course, another reason is that they'll sell enough at boutique prices to turn a profit because some people will pay for them...

At the end of the day, you should ride both bikes and get the one you enjoy more, that fits you better, that looks better, or that's the best deal.

JanMM

Solid aluminum - literally?
You can find pics of all kinds of broken frames on the internet. Go aluminum if it gives you peace of mind over CF. The only frame I ever broke was hi-ten steel.

Seattle Forrest

The only frame I broke was steel, too. And it wasn't even rust! It was getting hit by a car.

Just about every bike on the road these days has a carbon fork. Even steel and titanium bikes. If carbon was half as dangerous as people like to say, every cyclist on earth would be dead by now. Most of us would be dead several times!

fietsbob

Major Brands have original Buyer life time warrantees for materials and workmanship defects .

Such as Trek, Specialized and many others ..

whats wrong with Steel?

Balverde

Thanks for answers!
Yeah, but if my frame breaks on the 70km/h descent, the least of my worries would be the warranty

I get that the carbon just doesnt break on its own for no reason under an regular cyclist, but with my 90+ kgs I doubt that I fall under the regular cyclists physique category. The frames are not probably aimed exactly for that kind of weight statistically.

Also, if we're on it, I wonder, is there a difference in comfort between "regular" frames (like Scott Speedster or Merida Scultura) vs aero frames (like mentioned Fuji Transonic 2.9 or Meridas Reacto). My lower back is getting a battering during 100km+ rides on Scott Speedster 30 (aluminium with carbon fork) and although I can handle that, it would be great if my next bike wouldnt be less comfy (preferably more).

apn

If you're having lower-back issues (flexibility), you'd be advised to eschew the racing geometry bikes and consider an endurance frame like the Cannondale Synapse, Scott Solace and Fuji Sportif etc.

The taller head tube and more relaxed geometry will result in a more comfortable, although slightly less aero position on the bike.

IIRC, all the bikes I mentioned are available in an Aluminum frameset.

indyfabz

I still want to hear more about this "solid aluminum" frame. Must be pretty heavy.

Seattle Forrest

When the engineers say "we've tested this frame and it takes 500 kg to break it," the lawyers say "that's great, we'll say 75 kg so we have a safety margin and don't get sued."

But when you find a bike you like, check its weight limit (if there is a weight limit) instead of assuming it can't possibly do what it was designed for.

Lower back soreness probably won't get better with aero posture.

james_v

^^^This is what I came here for. Or maybe how many watts it takes to climb a 3.4% grade with a solid aluminum frame.

ypsetihw

I'm 95kg before kit and bottles and whatever else I'm carrying and I have an aluminum with carbon forks, never had any issue with frames or flexing. the rear wheel of my RS10 stock wheelset (24r/20f spokes) is about 1mm out of true after 1500 miles, but that's about it. I saw a video where it took 900 lbs of force or so to crack a carbon MTB frame, the aluminum one bent before that. make sure the frame will fit some wider (25 or 28mm) tires and you'll be good on either.

Jarrett2

At 205 lbs, ride whatever you want.

It's past 250 lbs when you start to need to think about what makes the most sense.

Balverde

English is not my first language and the word "solid" in my language means high quality or something like that and hence this unfortunate phrase. You knew what I meant

Well then, the aluminium/carbon wont be the most important criterium I guess now.

indyfabz

LOL!

OP: I know what you meant since you used it the adjective cheap to modify carbon. Just yanking your chain. At your weight you have nothing to worry about. Just make sure you get a red bike. Red is the fastest color.

chevmaro

I'm 190 lbs. and have both Carbon and Aluminum bikes. Haven't thought a single time about my Frame being strong enough. Most frame weight limits are 275lbs or more, some claim to not have a weight limit. At your weight, don't worry so much and go ride your bike.

Unless you wanted a friend to ride on your handlebars, then I suggest not getting a road bike.

dksix

I agree with @Jarrett2 , I'm up to about 205 (93KG) and just bought my CF frameset and wheelset. I never gave any real consideration to weight limit on either, but didn't buy ultra light weight stuff either. I would especially expect the endurance geometry frame sets would be engineered to handle well beyond the weight of the OP. If there is a Trek dealer local to you check out the Domane line, they have both aluminum and CF within the same model line.

dim

buy a good used surly long haul trucker

problem solved .... ride it for a few years then sell it for more than what you paid

Maelochs

I weigh more than you and I don't worry about any of that stuff ... but if you do, the obvious solution would be solid carbon. You can cut glass with that stuff.

Sy Reene

Could one argue though that the high end carbon segment, exists in at least part, to service the pro rider. And the pro rider/peloton doesn't typically consist of a lot of 200lb riders. So, when the bike makers are shaving weight, are they doing it to service the pro peloton, or everybody? Then again perhaps the 15lb weight limit for bikes, exists solely so the bike making industry can make a bike that works (and is relatively safe) for everyone, and they don't have to worry about servicing pros vs. Joe Everyday rider; otherwise you might indeed see a bunch of 13lb bikes in events?

1989Pre 

Custom Bicycle Frames from Gunnar Cycles USA

1989Pre 

Thanks for clarifying that. I don't think Indy knew what you meant. Language has so many subtleties!
One commenter, here, mentioned that the weight max for "most bikes" is 275. I had heard that it is 250 for aluminum. In either case, you should be fine if you ride carefully and intelligently. Another commenter mentioned something about the strength of the wheels being paramount in importance. That makes sense to me. Have your wheels built by the best wheelsmith in town.

martianone

My mass is around 98 kg, rode an aluminum Cannondale CAAD for a few seasons. The frame and stock Shimano wheels handled my weight just fine, the bike rode well also. The CAAD was a little more race orientated than my body; looked at many other bikes, especially CF. The CF bikes I was able to try, also had a more race fit than endurance. A couple dealers did suggest my mass was at the bike's limit, some wheels have weight limits of around 100 kg. I finally went with a steel frame bike which I've ridden pretty hard on some rather awful roads, including dirt/gravel - the bike and wheels have been great. If steel interests you, try a Surly Pacer ?

Balverde

That is silly thinking. I can just buy any bike and paint it red!

chrislee99777

haha,"solid aluminium"sounds too heavy,even heavy than you

indyfabz

That would make it faster.