shuru421

Anyone running modern wheelsets on your vintage bikes? Im assuming it will have to be vintage hubs (126mm) on modern wheelsets.

repechage

Lot of 120mm spaced frames running around here too.
Stuffing a 130 hub into a 125-126 frame can be done, indexing may suffer without realignment of the dérailleur mount. Italian frames and those makers that blacksmith end the drive side rear dropouts as the Italians often did would be best to take advantage of the full cog range. Often clearance problems otherwise.

Shinkers

I put a 130 hub in my 126 spaced aluminum Trek and have no indexing issues with the 10 speed Tiagra group I'm using.

Front indexing did suffer but I think that was due to chainline. I just needed a touch more range on my front to not get rubbing. Ended up going to a friction shifter.

bikemig 

Spreading a bike from 126 mm to 130 mm is not a big deal esp. if talking about a steel bike. There is a long thread on BF about vintage bikes with modern groups.

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...i-s-ergos.html

John E

Yet another example of why I detest front indexing.

BigPoser

Yup I put 130mm hubs on my Cuevas and will be doing the same on my Bertoni when I get to that point.

bulldog1935

Phil freewheel hubs 126mm with Synergy rims (asymmetric rear) on '74 Raleigh International




My daughter's '86 Team Fuji spread from 126mm to 130mm using BHS hubs and Kinlim rims (built by Hoops), Ultegra 9-speed
this little spread does not require cold-setting

and a '78 Strada-clone crank

My '92 Viner CX has Miche RG2 hubs, Open Pro rims and a 2x9 wide compact double.

Lascauxcaveman 

Steel is real (flexible). I swap in and out 130 OLD hubs a lot on my 126mm steel bikes and it's no big.

Got a couple of late 80s aluminum Cannondales that are ostensibly 126 but actually more like 128 so they take the 130s just fine, too.

Barchettaman

That Sugino wide double looks bloody awesome for a commuter.

bwilli88 

I am running a Deore LX rear cassette hub on my 83 Centurion Pro Tour. Took a bit of a grunt to cold set the rear to 132 and a squeeze to get the wheel in. Search for a Centurion Pro Tour and you can see mine.
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...-pro-tour.html

Vintage Raleigh

Bulldog your bikes are rolling art sculptures

OldsCOOL

'88 Cannondale Criterium Series sporting a set of Vuelta Corsa Lites. They really work well on this bike.

[IMG][/IMG]

jimmuller 

If you use a modern wheelset built with vintage 126mm hubs is it still all-original? Oops, wrong thread. I mean, is it still modern?

(Of course, I'm asking the philosophical question what is a modern wheelset?)

bulldog1935

thank you, friend - always have a plan, and I swear it's always form follows function, and if it looks good, too, so much the better.

If I'm not adjusting cones on and off the bike to get them dialed in, yes, it's a modern wheelset.
But I like my less than modern C-record hubs, too - even though they're 130mm rear axle.


I was in one LBS one day on this bike with my buddy and some transaction he was doing. The head mechanic saw these hubs, and brought his whole staff by for archaic show-and-tell
My turn for a rhetorical question - does running Boca SiN loose balls lose its antiquity?

plonz 

And for anyone wondering, 11 speed hub and cassette working fine on my Raleigh with 126mm spacing. Really tight clearance at the seat stay in smallest cog but chain still clears. 105 front derailleur indexing and trimming with no issue.

bulldog1935

that one is tight, massive dish, and no offense, looks like chain-suck city - what's your smallest rear cog? (you know better than us whether it works...)

bulldog1935

It would be, bro. I live in serious hills - 400' climb with up to 14% grade to get home. Miche custom cassette for this:Mike Sherman's Bicycle Gear Calculator.
I set up the cassette with 5 narrow cruising gears and 4 wider climbing gears, and switch to the granny for for narrow climbing steps.
Most of the time it works mindlessly as a 1x9

bradtx

shuru421, IME just installing a hub with 130 mm OLD in a frame that measures 126 mm works well without cold setting...cold setting for this change isn't required. Harris Cyclery does, or used to, suggest that a 126 mm OLD hub will work in a frame with 120 mm spaced drop outs without cold setting. Going from 120 mm to 130 mm will probably require cold setting, but I haven't done this so I'm not positive.

Most often a classic looking rim is used, but something more modern can work well and be attractive, in this instance decals are often removed if they clash with a build theme.

Brad

PS Closely inspect the rear triangle for any existing defects that may cause a failure whether simply installing a wider hub or cold setting.

PPS This subject can cause debates/

exmechanic89

Pretty cool set-ups there. I love when modern and oldschool is mixed to make something entirely new. I often use a multitude of decades stuff in my own bikes' builds.

bulldog1935

Thanks again.
agree and, again, it's form follows function. I want all the qualities of steel frames, and you can't go out and buy new frames of this quality for $200-$300 (even $500).

I realize there is another school of pure-period/catalog-correct collector, where form matters more than function.
I've just never been in that school. My first steel bike was a door for improvement, never intended to be a museum piece.
To me, all bikes are platforms for good tires.

John E

Note that most of the examples in this thread have traditional-looking wheels, which I define as having at least 32 spokes per wheel. I did a similar upgrade on my mountain bike, replacing the original 32-spoke 7-speed freewheel wheelset with an 32-spoke 8-speed cassette. I prefer the look of my new wheels, because the originals had black anodized rims.

easyupbug 

I agree with all of the above but if you don't want to or shouldn't (aluminum frame) mess with cold setting I would add that the Sheldon Brown mod of changing out a 6 or 7 speed 126mm Shimano freehub body for a 8,9,10 body has worked beautifully for me. I can usually get new Ultegra bodies for under $20 on ebay or even pulled from a newer hub with ruined races for next to nothing.

bulldog1935

close, bro, my daughter's BHS/Kinlin wheelset are aero-section 24/20 spoke count. (the stock rims on the Team Fuji were also black)

Black, aero, decorated rims are ok - to me, when it gets out of line is when the wheels become the subject of the bike

bulldog1935

There are also new narrow axle cassette hubs available Suzue and Grand Bois - 120mm and 126mm - even the 120mm will take a Shimano 6-speed cassette.

exmechanic89

Yeah I hear you, bikes are made to be ridden, and using different era components can often make for a better ride. My current build is a Koga Miyata race frame I'm putting together with a mix of old and new, my goal with it is to have a cheap, fast, fun race bike. I'm not worried about it looking like it did when it was a new bike from the factory. As you say, form follows function.