buffalo_cody

So I bought a rear wheel e-bike kit from ebikeling.com. The brake cut off switches are on some of the cheapest, not to mention ugliest levers I've ever seen. I know I can just buy some nicer ones but before I throw more money at this, has anybody had any luck removing the switch and rigging it up to work on regular long pull levers?

Also... what's everyone's thoughts on just not using brake cut offs? I'm using v-brakes and 48v 1200w geared rear wheel.

Thanks

CigTech2

I have the same kit. I would not run without the break cut off. If you try to break and don't have the cut off leavers installed then the motor will be fighting the breaks if your still on the throttle. so for safety reasons you need the break leavers. There has been a times i hit the throttle and the bike tried to take off. But I pulled the leavers and stop it from going. I would not run it with out them.

chas58

1200 watts is too much to run without a cut off. YOu can use any lever you want, and use the cutoffs that are activated by the motion of the brake cable:

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-parts/4...pcs-parts.html

2old

350w system seems to operate fine without cut-off, but +1 with those who say it's needed with a 1200w system. I think the throttle could get stuck and the cut-off levers would be welcomed. I rode a 2WD Easy Motion and the torque sensor was stuck (that's what their engineer said caused the problem). The only way to cut the motor quickly was the brake levers. It was a hell of a ride though because the torque sensor stayed stuck every time I took off.

speedy25

That was a wild ride 2old! I'll have to ask the EM tech about that one.

NO e-bike should ever be ridden without cut-off switches.

-SP

2old

S25, was riding with a friend who was on a Bosch-equipped Felt hardtail up an 8-9 mile 3000'+ ascent and he was left in the dust so to speak. Most fun I've ever had on an e-MTB.