So when have people been comfortable cutting the stem tube on their bike?
#3
It's really not only for looks. You want the expander plug to support the steerer tube and counter the stem pressure from the inside, and for that you need to have the steerer cut sufficiently short. For the bikes I've built up myself, the cut was a part of the original build, sometimes with additional cuts once I finalise my position.
#4
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I cut it three times and it's still too short
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#5
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However long it takes to have tried all sorts of rides and decide that you're never going to need to move the stem up. I cut mine after about a month, actually I was extra cautious and cut twice, first with a couple of spacers left and then later just slammed it. Aluminum steerer tube, with carbon where you have to be more careful I'm sure I'd have been more certain and cut once.
#8
Not just for looks. If the steerer well protrudes above the stem after you adjust stem height where you like it, the ID of the steerer maybe unsupported by the internal plug against stem forces and of course you could impale yourself on the thing in the event of a crash.
With me, I am slow about cutting it. I normally over a long life of bike ownership cut is twice or even three times if building from fresh frameset. There is no turning back is the reason. Also, if you plan to sell the bike on ebay, many won't buy a slammed stem bike...I won't because you lose adjustability. So there are many reasons to cut it also a few to be conservative as you dial in your riding position.
A racer may live in a different world however. He knows what head tube length works for him and may need to slam the stem to the top bearing dust cap.
So not the same for everybody.
With me, I am slow about cutting it. I normally over a long life of bike ownership cut is twice or even three times if building from fresh frameset. There is no turning back is the reason. Also, if you plan to sell the bike on ebay, many won't buy a slammed stem bike...I won't because you lose adjustability. So there are many reasons to cut it also a few to be conservative as you dial in your riding position.
A racer may live in a different world however. He knows what head tube length works for him and may need to slam the stem to the top bearing dust cap.
So not the same for everybody.
#9
Senior Member
Two reasons to never cut it: 1. It fits as is. 2. You may sell the bike at some point
One reason to cut it after a short period: Just making sure it's where you want it
One (big) reason to cut it if you've got a lot of the steerer north of the stem: What Fiery and Campag4life said
My steerers are all cut. I tend to keep bikes for a long (!) time and just add to the fleet. So, I'm not thinking about buyer #2 .
Although, I'll admit, with the latest purchase... I'm not sure when/if I'll be cutting the steer
One reason to cut it after a short period: Just making sure it's where you want it
One (big) reason to cut it if you've got a lot of the steerer north of the stem: What Fiery and Campag4life said
My steerers are all cut. I tend to keep bikes for a long (!) time and just add to the fleet. So, I'm not thinking about buyer #2 .
Although, I'll admit, with the latest purchase... I'm not sure when/if I'll be cutting the steer
#13
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Measure twice, cut once. A lot of folks don't cut for resale purpose. I always do for proper installation. If I decide to sell the bike, usually I try to sell to someone who I know will fit the bike and the length of fork steer tube is no issue. Some like to keep a little on top so if they are off the bike and don't ride much in the winter, their body is not as limber and raise the bars. So they will raise it a bit at the start of the season until things get stretched out and then lower the bars down.
#14
Senior Member
I haven't cut mine, and need to.
I injured my lower back lifting weights this winter, and raising the bars just made it worse. How's that for irony?
I injured my lower back lifting weights this winter, and raising the bars just made it worse. How's that for irony?
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#16
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I've seen folks say it looks crap if the stem goes straight from the bars to the headset rather than taking a detour above a stack of spacers... What looks crap to me is using more material than necessary to do the job, with more weight and flex.
#17
Cut and just flip, I say. If it's too far, get a 0° stem.
I've seen folks say it looks crap if the stem goes straight from the bars to the headset rather than taking a detour above a stack of spacers... What looks crap to me is using more material than necessary to do the job, with more weight and flex.
I've seen folks say it looks crap if the stem goes straight from the bars to the headset rather than taking a detour above a stack of spacers... What looks crap to me is using more material than necessary to do the job, with more weight and flex.
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Sure, but hopefully what works best looks best, right?
And since what looks good or otherwise is at least in part determined by what you choose to value, it's possible to shift your perceptions in favour of what works better. Often it's just a matter of getting used to it; consider four-arm cranks. I suspect they look less ugly to you now than when they first came along.
And since what looks good or otherwise is at least in part determined by what you choose to value, it's possible to shift your perceptions in favour of what works better. Often it's just a matter of getting used to it; consider four-arm cranks. I suspect they look less ugly to you now than when they first came along.
#20
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This is the actual, correct answer.
Cut when you are sure it needs to be cut. If you are unsure then don't cut. That's all there is to it.
Cutting the steerer has nothing to do with looks for me.
It is a steerer, not a "stem tube."
-Tim-
Last edited by TimothyH; 06-04-18 at 08:20 PM.
#22
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lol. My 2 road bikes have been cut. My mtb has not. It is only laziness on my part but it is silly not too. It bothers me when I see it, so when I have time and can remember....
#23
Sure, but hopefully what works best looks best, right?
And since what looks good or otherwise is at least in part determined by what you choose to value, it's possible to shift your perceptions in favour of what works better. Often it's just a matter of getting used to it; consider four-arm cranks. I suspect they look less ugly to you now than when they first came along.
And since what looks good or otherwise is at least in part determined by what you choose to value, it's possible to shift your perceptions in favour of what works better. Often it's just a matter of getting used to it; consider four-arm cranks. I suspect they look less ugly to you now than when they first came along.
Now not only do I appreciate the wisdom of four-arm cranks, but I actually love how they look.
And I think that the new Campa 12 speed group is gorgeous, especially the crank arms.
But to get back to the topic at hand, I have to cut the stem in my Colnago Master. I think that I have finally dialed in the right position. It may somewhat limit resale bikes, but I normally don’t sell my bikes. So no big deal there.
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For me, a new fork only needs about 3cm cut off. That is usually 1 spacer or cable hanger below, and two above. So I do it at my first yearly major service. In the past I have had a custom stem made just to avoid spacers.