Disc brake break in period?
#1
Disc brake break in period?
Every set of mechanical disc or hydro disc brakes have never impressed me. DO they require a break in period of some sort? I have been out on several test rides recently and they are just junk.
My koolstops are at least 2x as good. They lock up in a second with half the force.
IM not tryng to troll or start a big thing here. I just dont get it. I must be missing something. I imagine they have a break in period that i have never passed.
My koolstops are at least 2x as good. They lock up in a second with half the force.
IM not tryng to troll or start a big thing here. I just dont get it. I must be missing something. I imagine they have a break in period that i have never passed.
#2
FLIR Kitten to 0.05C
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Lincoln, Nebraska
Posts: 5,331
Bikes: Roadie: Seven Axiom Race Ti w/Chorus 11s. CX/Adventure: Carver Gravel Grinder w/ Di2
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Then the hydraulics you tested must not have been set-up very well.
Between the Campag Chorus skeleton brakes with Koolstop pads and my Ultegra hydraulics...I love the Ultegra hydraulics much more. Better feel, better modulation, they're just better.
Between the Campag Chorus skeleton brakes with Koolstop pads and my Ultegra hydraulics...I love the Ultegra hydraulics much more. Better feel, better modulation, they're just better.
#4
Senior Member
There are plenty of "disk brake break-in" videos on the net, but basically you need something similar to:
1) accelerate to about 20km/h on a slight descent and apply the brakes firmly (not full-on) until you come to a walking pace. It's important not to stop abruptly, which can lead to uneven deposits of brake pad material on the rotor (the intention is to get an even "key" of brake material on the rotors.
2) Do the above about 10-20 times. Allow a short cooling period between runs
3) Repeat at 30km/h with slightly firmer braking
4) Repeat at 40+ km/h with even firmer braking.
You should be good to go. You'll probably find that braking will improve slightly over the next few days of riding.
Hydraulics should work very well. If they don't, you may have problems with the pad wear or alignment, air in the brake fluid or bent/misaligned rotors or calipers.
Avoid cleaning the rotor (or getting it too close to chain cleaning products) or touching it with your fingers.
One tip I've found useful. Every time I remove the pads to check them, I reset the brake pistons by pushing them both back equally into the frame using some tire-levers. You will need to do actuate the brakes a few time to set the pistons to the correct position after replacing the pads.
1) accelerate to about 20km/h on a slight descent and apply the brakes firmly (not full-on) until you come to a walking pace. It's important not to stop abruptly, which can lead to uneven deposits of brake pad material on the rotor (the intention is to get an even "key" of brake material on the rotors.
2) Do the above about 10-20 times. Allow a short cooling period between runs
3) Repeat at 30km/h with slightly firmer braking
4) Repeat at 40+ km/h with even firmer braking.
You should be good to go. You'll probably find that braking will improve slightly over the next few days of riding.
Hydraulics should work very well. If they don't, you may have problems with the pad wear or alignment, air in the brake fluid or bent/misaligned rotors or calipers.
Avoid cleaning the rotor (or getting it too close to chain cleaning products) or touching it with your fingers.
One tip I've found useful. Every time I remove the pads to check them, I reset the brake pistons by pushing them both back equally into the frame using some tire-levers. You will need to do actuate the brakes a few time to set the pistons to the correct position after replacing the pads.
#5
Occam's Rotor
I brake in my breaks, or is it break in my brakes, by clamping down hard on the front and pedalling as hard as I can. When I can no longer move, I switch to the back. I do that 2 or three times and declare victory. It takes less than five minutes.
#6
Senior Member
Yes, brakes break in, but for me, it's not about absolute braking force, as you point out a good rim brake will lock up the wheel, but modulation. The improved ability to modulate braking force makes a huge difference when the surface starts to get squirrely. Sure, some of you have never run over a squirrel, but those who have will certainly agree with me.