Restoring an '84 Bianchi CD'I to ride in Eroica CA
01-30-19, 10:29 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Restoring an '84 Bianchi CD'I to ride in Eroica CA
I just picked up what I think is a 1984 Bianchi Campione D'Italia (sorry, not celeste) that I hope to ride in this year's Eroica CA. But first I have to get it into riding shape, of course. I welcome any tips and ideas from the C&V community re. what I should (and shouldn't) do as I go about restoring the bike. I'd also love to hear from anyone who has done an Eroica ride. This will be my first one, so any insider knowledge you have on how I should set up the bike (tires, gearing, etc.) would be awesome.
Here are some initial questions:
• Any recommended cleaning products for rusty/grimey/oxidized components?
• Should I bother with touch-up paint or do scratches and nicks add character?
• A pulley wheel in the rear derailleur is cracked. Is this an easily replaceable part, or should I get a whole new rear mech?
• According to a vintage catalogue description, this bike originally came equipped with a Campagnolo Gran Sport crankset. It's currently set up with an Ofmega CX crankset and bottom bracket. Should I restore the cranks/bb to their original Campy-state?
Thanks for the help!
Here are some initial questions:
• Any recommended cleaning products for rusty/grimey/oxidized components?
• Should I bother with touch-up paint or do scratches and nicks add character?
• A pulley wheel in the rear derailleur is cracked. Is this an easily replaceable part, or should I get a whole new rear mech?
• According to a vintage catalogue description, this bike originally came equipped with a Campagnolo Gran Sport crankset. It's currently set up with an Ofmega CX crankset and bottom bracket. Should I restore the cranks/bb to their original Campy-state?
Thanks for the help!
01-31-19, 06:31 AM
#2
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I just picked up what I think is a 1984 Bianchi Campione D'Italia (sorry, not celeste) that I hope to ride in this year's Eroica CA. But first I have to get it into riding shape, of course. I welcome any tips and ideas from the C&V community re. what I should (and shouldn't) do as I go about restoring the bike. I'd also love to hear from anyone who has done an Eroica ride. This will be my first one, so any insider knowledge you have on how I should set up the bike (tires, gearing, etc.) would be awesome.
Here are some initial questions:
• Any recommended cleaning products for rusty/grimey/oxidized components?
• Should I bother with touch-up paint or do scratches and nicks add character?
• A pulley wheel in the rear derailleur is cracked. Is this an easily replaceable part, or should I get a whole new rear mech?
• According to a vintage catalogue description, this bike originally came equipped with a Campagnolo Gran Sport crankset. It's currently set up with an Ofmega CX crankset and bottom bracket. Should I restore the cranks/bb to their original Campy-state?
Thanks for the help!
Here are some initial questions:
• Any recommended cleaning products for rusty/grimey/oxidized components?
• Should I bother with touch-up paint or do scratches and nicks add character?
• A pulley wheel in the rear derailleur is cracked. Is this an easily replaceable part, or should I get a whole new rear mech?
• According to a vintage catalogue description, this bike originally came equipped with a Campagnolo Gran Sport crankset. It's currently set up with an Ofmega CX crankset and bottom bracket. Should I restore the cranks/bb to their original Campy-state?
Thanks for the help!
Q1: Any favored brand of metal polish will do a nice job on the non-anodized parts such as the derailleurs and shifters.
Q2: Keep the patina. It does add character and your Bianchi looks to be in very nice shape.
Q3: Pulley/jockey wheels for Nuovo Record are available on ebay, and from other sources. Other brands also work. Keeping the original RD does limit you to a maximum low sprocket of about 28T (if you carefully set up your chain).
Q4: Really, any vintage crankset or vintage style crankset is acceptable. If you will need a lower gear, an alternative crank might be appreciated.
Let me also add that if you have a Regina freewheel with the two notch removal should be carefully removed in order to not damage the notches. Try to soak the threads with penetrating oil for a few days and then make certain the removal tool is securely locked in place with the QR skewer. Go slow and do your best to preserve the notches. BTW, if it is a Regina Oro (with gold sprockets) they can really polish into a beautiful finish.
Best of luck with your restoration!
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Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
01-31-19, 07:28 AM
#3
Senior Member
I like simichrome for bare aluminum and chrome. Most of the aluminum components on that bike are anodized, and can't be polished. Just use a cleaner. WD40 is fine.
It's really hard to touch up white. I'd be inclined to leave it alone. That bike is really near mint.
Aftermarket wheels are available. Campy requires 10 tooth wheels, which is the old standard. Modern wheels are usually 11t.
That is the original crankset. I used to assemble and sell those, and I distinctly remember them coming with that Ofmega crankset. That model is exactly the same as the Avocet that was pretty common around that time. They were lighter than campy, so keep an eye on it for cracking, especially if you are on the big side.
Riding gravel roads requires lower gears than the road. The issue is maintaining traction over steep sections. If you put the max 27/28t freewheel on, it's probably going to be barely enough - if you're race fit or something like it. Otherwise, you may consider swapping in a SOMA extension cage for that campy rear derailleur. That would allow you to run a 32t freewheel, or even convert to a triple front crank. Ofmega made that crank in a triple version, FYI. I haven't done this particular ride (yet), but I grew up riding dirt roads in central cal, and from that I can tell you that you will be thankful for some pretty low gears.
It's really hard to touch up white. I'd be inclined to leave it alone. That bike is really near mint.
Aftermarket wheels are available. Campy requires 10 tooth wheels, which is the old standard. Modern wheels are usually 11t.
That is the original crankset. I used to assemble and sell those, and I distinctly remember them coming with that Ofmega crankset. That model is exactly the same as the Avocet that was pretty common around that time. They were lighter than campy, so keep an eye on it for cracking, especially if you are on the big side.
Riding gravel roads requires lower gears than the road. The issue is maintaining traction over steep sections. If you put the max 27/28t freewheel on, it's probably going to be barely enough - if you're race fit or something like it. Otherwise, you may consider swapping in a SOMA extension cage for that campy rear derailleur. That would allow you to run a 32t freewheel, or even convert to a triple front crank. Ofmega made that crank in a triple version, FYI. I haven't done this particular ride (yet), but I grew up riding dirt roads in central cal, and from that I can tell you that you will be thankful for some pretty low gears.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 01-31-19 at 07:32 AM.
01-31-19, 07:45 AM
#4
Senior Member
Looks identical to the bike in the 83 catalog pic. https://bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalogs/Bianchi-83/04.jpg
I forgot to say, nice bike! Congratulations
One more thing, replace the rubber parts - brake pads and tires. I suggest you fit the largest tubulars you can fit in that frame.
I forgot to say, nice bike! Congratulations
One more thing, replace the rubber parts - brake pads and tires. I suggest you fit the largest tubulars you can fit in that frame.
01-31-19, 07:57 AM
#5
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Nice bike. I don't see any grimey oxidized parts. I would just remove all the components, wash and wax the frame, clean and repack headset bottombracket, hubs, pedals, and put it back together and ride lots. I heard that Velo Orange has jockey wheels for your derailleur. Looks like yourcog set is too Heroic. Put on a more human 13/24 and you are good to go.
edit. Yes like sal said: get some Kool stops. My 25 Gatorskins were fine. Clincher one year and tubular the next.
edit. Yes like sal said: get some Kool stops. My 25 Gatorskins were fine. Clincher one year and tubular the next.
01-31-19, 08:09 AM
#6
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Very, very nice. I'd overhaul the bike completely as well as replace all the consumables. The mavic GP4s are excellent rims. You may want to change the wheels out for clinchers though if you don't want to mess around with tubulars. Personally I'd keep the tubulars which can be surprisingly good for riding on gravel. Certainly those GP4s can take a beating.
Gearing is the main thing you want to think about and gearing depends on your conditioning obviously.
You have two possibilities. The easiest is to go with a larger freewheel (but pay attention to what [MENTION=398641]PastorB[/MENTION]obnInh said, he's our freewheel guru). The campy RD will easily deal with a 13-26 and may well be able to deal with a 28. To go larger, you would need a longer cage RD. The best in terms of shifting would likely be a suntour VGT rear derailleur but that's not campy. Otherwise just get some long cages for the campy RD, like these from Soma [url]https://store.somafab.com/sonuredecapl.html
The other is to get a compact crank of some type so you can go with smaller chainrings up front. I can't tell what kind of crank the bike has but it likely can't go smaller than a 42 up front (perhaps a 39 depending on the BCD). A compact crank will let you run a more hill friendly 48/36 for example.
Gearing is the main thing you want to think about and gearing depends on your conditioning obviously.
You have two possibilities. The easiest is to go with a larger freewheel (but pay attention to what [MENTION=398641]PastorB[/MENTION]obnInh said, he's our freewheel guru). The campy RD will easily deal with a 13-26 and may well be able to deal with a 28. To go larger, you would need a longer cage RD. The best in terms of shifting would likely be a suntour VGT rear derailleur but that's not campy. Otherwise just get some long cages for the campy RD, like these from Soma [url]https://store.somafab.com/sonuredecapl.html
The other is to get a compact crank of some type so you can go with smaller chainrings up front. I can't tell what kind of crank the bike has but it likely can't go smaller than a 42 up front (perhaps a 39 depending on the BCD). A compact crank will let you run a more hill friendly 48/36 for example.
01-31-19, 08:38 AM
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[MENTION=494302]Rippstar[/MENTION] welcome to the forums and what a beauty you got there. identical to the one i saw at The Bicycle Stand last weekend.
For the grimey parts like bar tape and saddle id use GreaseMonkey wipes. They work like a charm to remove dirt, sweat, boogers and such.
Where in Los Angeles are you? If you dont mind me asking
For the grimey parts like bar tape and saddle id use GreaseMonkey wipes. They work like a charm to remove dirt, sweat, boogers and such.
Where in Los Angeles are you? If you dont mind me asking
01-31-19, 12:56 PM
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nice bike....like the panto..... don't worry about the crankset.......
As noted if you need lower gearing change out the freewheel, rear derailler and chain. but keep what you take off, as you can easily just put them back on when you don't need the lower gearing. Unless you are going for a concours perfect bike, a bit of mix and match for functionality is pretty typical for a bike of this age that has been really used
As noted if you need lower gearing change out the freewheel, rear derailler and chain. but keep what you take off, as you can easily just put them back on when you don't need the lower gearing. Unless you are going for a concours perfect bike, a bit of mix and match for functionality is pretty typical for a bike of this age that has been really used
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01-31-19, 03:49 PM
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[MENTION=494302]Rippstar[/MENTION],
Welcome aboard, very nice, beautiful!
That is a perfect beauty for Leroica and based on your other pic, if you got up to where you rode down the 7% grade, you won't need any lower gearing.
Clean, shine, polish, replace the broken pulley, new grease throughout and fine tune.
All parts currently in use are excellent for this.
Welcome aboard, very nice, beautiful!
That is a perfect beauty for Leroica and based on your other pic, if you got up to where you rode down the 7% grade, you won't need any lower gearing.
Clean, shine, polish, replace the broken pulley, new grease throughout and fine tune.
All parts currently in use are excellent for this.
01-31-19, 04:01 PM
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01-31-19, 04:03 PM
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I don't think he will need a lower gear. 
01-31-19, 04:05 PM
#12
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It's a 1982 model.
01-31-19, 05:30 PM
#13
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Pretty bike. I wouldn't worry too much about originality, unless you're entering the concours. You will need low gears, unless you are monster hill climber. In 2016 I rode my mostly original Legnano Roma with Campy 52/42 crank and a 6 speed 28t rear. It wasn't enough. I walked three hills. I skipped 2017 with health issues, and built a Raleigh Frankenbike for 2018. It has a Sugino 32/40/50 Triple and a Shimano Megarange 34t 6 speed rear with a Suntour VGT Luxe RD. It's a great ride, and even with the hill friendly gears, I walked three hills ... again. I'm 69, in pretty good shape, riding around 100 miles a week. I also lost 40 lbs between my Eroicas. Eroica is tough. But fun. Welcome to the Forum, enjoy the ride.
My '64 Legnano, had since new. Original except clincher rims and Nitto stem. I use the original Campy pedals and dreaded toe clips when required for Eroica.
Frankenbike Raleigh Super Course last year.
My '64 Legnano, had since new. Original except clincher rims and Nitto stem. I use the original Campy pedals and dreaded toe clips when required for Eroica.
Frankenbike Raleigh Super Course last year.
Last edited by Slightspeed; 01-31-19 at 05:34 PM.
02-03-19, 04:44 PM
#14
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Thanks for all the helpful tips and the warm welcomes. Also, sorry for the radio silence—the image uploader was available to me right away, but then I was locked out of replying for some reason. I'll try to respond to everyone in one go...
[MENTION=42162]pastorbobnlnh[/MENTION] I've determined that it is indeed a Regina Oro freewheel (13-22) but it has splines instead of the two notches. I've ordered what I hope is the proper removal tool, so hopefully I can get it off cleanly. I've attached a pic of the "logo" area which appears to read: "REGINA ORO / 4 ITALY 30 (or 80?)" The Campy Record hub also has writing near the freewheel which appears to read: "England 1.370" x 24 t.p.l. B.S.C." Not sure if I got that right or what any of those numbers and letters mean, but I assume it indicates that the threading on the hub is British.
[MENTION=424205]Salamandrine[/MENTION] I've been searching eBay for replacement Campy pulley wheels, but they're pretty hard to come by for less than the price of a complete NR derailleur. I might just go with the Soma or Shimano clones despite wanting to keep the bike all original. Thanks for the info on the crank. The seller insisted that none of the parts had been changed from stock, so I guess this particular CD'I just came with the Ofmega CX crankset instead of the Gran Sport one. In terms of gearing, I have a 53/52 13-22 on there currently. I'd definitely love to have a lower gear or two, but don't really want to mess with the RD if I don't have to. BTW, looks like a hybrid of the '83 and '84 CD'I. The frame color, panto and decals match the '84 specs (except for the Piaggio sticker). But most of the components seem to correspond with the '83 specs. bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalogs/Bianchi-84/4.jpg
[MENTION=397345]Classtime[/MENTION] I'm def hoping to get some lower gears on there and I've picked up some Kool Stop pads for the Modolo Speedys. (Removing the dried-out old pads seems next to impossible though.) BTW, the wheels are actually clinchers. I have a newish pair of 25mm Panaracer Pacela ProTites that just barely clear the seat post and chain stays. Hope those will be enough for the gravel sections.
[MENTION=302603]bikemig[/MENTION] Luckily the G40 rims that came on the bike are clinchers (I have no experience with tubs). I don't think I can fit a smaller chainring up front, but will try and get some larger cogs on the RD.
[MENTION=159681]Bianchigirll[/MENTION] Yes, looks like a '83/'84 mix in terms of the components—definitely keeping the crankset as is. Unfortunately, I recently got rid of a Suntour Superbe RD, so just hooping to just use the NR derailleur that's already on there. And, I'll also forgo the touch-up paint route. Less work for me!
[MENTION=391445]malcala622[/MENTION] I'm just replacing the tape as it was torn and unraveling in places. I did order some of those GreaseMonkey wipes you recommended, though. BTW, I currently live in Leimert Park, but grew up in the Pasadena area.
[MENTION=61707]squirtdad[/MENTION] Thanks for the suggestions. Definitely don't plan to get this bike up to concours-level, but hope I can at least finish the ride on it.
[MENTION=425004]merziac[/MENTION] The red bike I was riding in that picture ('88 Bianchi Sport SX) has 52-42 up front and 13-23 in the rear. It's about 25lbs without bottles and I weigh in at 150. It's a bit large for me and the smaller CD'I is about 22 lbs. Perhaps that means I'll be able to manage on the climbs with the current 53-42/13-22, but climbing up dirt/gravel with clips and straps seems like it would certainly add to the challenge.
[MENTION=459436]Slightspeed[/MENTION] you're definitely making me nervous about the Eroica climbs. Nice bikes, though—that Raleigh is especially pretty! Maybe see you on the ride this year...
NEW QUESTIONS:
• Re. gearing, besides a vintage Regina Oro, what type of freewheels would work on my hub if I go up to, say, 14-28?
• Would it be possible to just replace my 22t cog with a 26t or 28t one, or perhaps remove the 13t and add a larger cog on the other end?
• If I don't feel like dropping $50-$150+ on a replacement Regina chain, what would be a good alternative?
• I picked up some Evapo-Rust for the heavily oxidized parts. Can I soak components such as derailleurs, brakes, etc. in that stuff or should I take them all apart first. (Not lazy, just worried I won't be able to get everything back together properly. Okay, maybe a little lazy.)
*Closeup pic of the freewheel and a progress shot of the tear-down:
[MENTION=42162]pastorbobnlnh[/MENTION] I've determined that it is indeed a Regina Oro freewheel (13-22) but it has splines instead of the two notches. I've ordered what I hope is the proper removal tool, so hopefully I can get it off cleanly. I've attached a pic of the "logo" area which appears to read: "REGINA ORO / 4 ITALY 30 (or 80?)" The Campy Record hub also has writing near the freewheel which appears to read: "England 1.370" x 24 t.p.l. B.S.C." Not sure if I got that right or what any of those numbers and letters mean, but I assume it indicates that the threading on the hub is British.
[MENTION=424205]Salamandrine[/MENTION] I've been searching eBay for replacement Campy pulley wheels, but they're pretty hard to come by for less than the price of a complete NR derailleur. I might just go with the Soma or Shimano clones despite wanting to keep the bike all original. Thanks for the info on the crank. The seller insisted that none of the parts had been changed from stock, so I guess this particular CD'I just came with the Ofmega CX crankset instead of the Gran Sport one. In terms of gearing, I have a 53/52 13-22 on there currently. I'd definitely love to have a lower gear or two, but don't really want to mess with the RD if I don't have to. BTW, looks like a hybrid of the '83 and '84 CD'I. The frame color, panto and decals match the '84 specs (except for the Piaggio sticker). But most of the components seem to correspond with the '83 specs. bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalogs/Bianchi-84/4.jpg
[MENTION=397345]Classtime[/MENTION] I'm def hoping to get some lower gears on there and I've picked up some Kool Stop pads for the Modolo Speedys. (Removing the dried-out old pads seems next to impossible though.) BTW, the wheels are actually clinchers. I have a newish pair of 25mm Panaracer Pacela ProTites that just barely clear the seat post and chain stays. Hope those will be enough for the gravel sections.
[MENTION=302603]bikemig[/MENTION] Luckily the G40 rims that came on the bike are clinchers (I have no experience with tubs). I don't think I can fit a smaller chainring up front, but will try and get some larger cogs on the RD.
[MENTION=159681]Bianchigirll[/MENTION] Yes, looks like a '83/'84 mix in terms of the components—definitely keeping the crankset as is. Unfortunately, I recently got rid of a Suntour Superbe RD, so just hooping to just use the NR derailleur that's already on there. And, I'll also forgo the touch-up paint route. Less work for me!
[MENTION=391445]malcala622[/MENTION] I'm just replacing the tape as it was torn and unraveling in places. I did order some of those GreaseMonkey wipes you recommended, though. BTW, I currently live in Leimert Park, but grew up in the Pasadena area.
[MENTION=61707]squirtdad[/MENTION] Thanks for the suggestions. Definitely don't plan to get this bike up to concours-level, but hope I can at least finish the ride on it.
[MENTION=425004]merziac[/MENTION] The red bike I was riding in that picture ('88 Bianchi Sport SX) has 52-42 up front and 13-23 in the rear. It's about 25lbs without bottles and I weigh in at 150. It's a bit large for me and the smaller CD'I is about 22 lbs. Perhaps that means I'll be able to manage on the climbs with the current 53-42/13-22, but climbing up dirt/gravel with clips and straps seems like it would certainly add to the challenge.
[MENTION=459436]Slightspeed[/MENTION] you're definitely making me nervous about the Eroica climbs. Nice bikes, though—that Raleigh is especially pretty! Maybe see you on the ride this year...
NEW QUESTIONS:
• Re. gearing, besides a vintage Regina Oro, what type of freewheels would work on my hub if I go up to, say, 14-28?
• Would it be possible to just replace my 22t cog with a 26t or 28t one, or perhaps remove the 13t and add a larger cog on the other end?
• If I don't feel like dropping $50-$150+ on a replacement Regina chain, what would be a good alternative?
• I picked up some Evapo-Rust for the heavily oxidized parts. Can I soak components such as derailleurs, brakes, etc. in that stuff or should I take them all apart first. (Not lazy, just worried I won't be able to get everything back together properly. Okay, maybe a little lazy.)
*Closeup pic of the freewheel and a progress shot of the tear-down:
02-03-19, 04:57 PM
#15
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Yeah dump the parts in evapo rust. No need to take anything apart (but I'd take off anything made of plastic/rubber). Evapo rust works great.
Freewheel is easy peasy, just get a modern shimano 7 speed freewheel, 14-28 (assuming this is 126 on the rear). https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Cycli.../dp/B01MRIRZ79
You'll get better shifting with a modern freewheel.
If this is a 120 mm on the rear, then you'll have to hunt around for a 5 speed freewheel (IRD makes one but there are others).
Cassettes / Freewheels ? Interloc Racing Design / IRD
If sticking with that campy RD, 28 is as big as you can go. If you get the longer Soma plates, you can run a 32 in the rear.
Don't buy some crazy expensive regina change. Just get a cheap 5-6-7 speed KMC chain. It will work great.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-116L-6-Sp.../dp/B00HZ8POGK
Freewheel is easy peasy, just get a modern shimano 7 speed freewheel, 14-28 (assuming this is 126 on the rear). https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Cycli.../dp/B01MRIRZ79
You'll get better shifting with a modern freewheel.
If this is a 120 mm on the rear, then you'll have to hunt around for a 5 speed freewheel (IRD makes one but there are others).
Cassettes / Freewheels ? Interloc Racing Design / IRD
If sticking with that campy RD, 28 is as big as you can go. If you get the longer Soma plates, you can run a 32 in the rear.
Don't buy some crazy expensive regina change. Just get a cheap 5-6-7 speed KMC chain. It will work great.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-116L-6-Sp.../dp/B00HZ8POGK
02-03-19, 05:07 PM
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Thanks for all the helpful tips and the warm welcomes. Also, sorry for the radio silence—the image uploader was available to me right away, but then I was locked out of replying for some reason. I'll try to respond to everyone in one go...
[MENTION=42162]pastorbobnlnh[/MENTION] I've determined that it is indeed a Regina Oro freewheel (13-22) but it has splines instead of the two notches. I've ordered what I hope is the proper removal tool, so hopefully I can get it off cleanly. I've attached a pic of the "logo" area which appears to read: "REGINA ORO / 4 ITALY 30 (or 80?)" The Campy Record hub also has writing near the freewheel which appears to read: "England 1.370" x 24 t.p.l. B.S.C." Not sure if I got that right or what any of those numbers and letters mean, but I assume it indicates that the threading on the hub is British.
[MENTION=424205]Salamandrine[/MENTION] I've been searching eBay for replacement Campy pulley wheels, but they're pretty hard to come by for less than the price of a complete NR derailleur. I might just go with the Soma or Shimano clones despite wanting to keep the bike all original. Thanks for the info on the crank. The seller insisted that none of the parts had been changed from stock, so I guess this particular CD'I just came with the Ofmega CX crankset instead of the Gran Sport one. In terms of gearing, I have a 53/52 13-22 on there currently. I'd definitely love to have a lower gear or two, but don't really want to mess with the RD if I don't have to. BTW, looks like a hybrid of the '83 and '84 CD'I. The frame color, panto and decals match the '84 specs (except for the Piaggio sticker). But most of the components seem to correspond with the '83 specs. bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalogs/Bianchi-84/4.jpg
[MENTION=397345]Classtime[/MENTION] I'm def hoping to get some lower gears on there and I've picked up some Kool Stop pads for the Modolo Speedys. (Removing the dried-out old pads seems next to impossible though.) BTW, the wheels are actually clinchers. I have a newish pair of 25mm Panaracer Pacela ProTites that just barely clear the seat post and chain stays. Hope those will be enough for the gravel sections.
[MENTION=302603]bikemig[/MENTION] Luckily the G40 rims that came on the bike are clinchers (I have no experience with tubs). I don't think I can fit a smaller chainring up front, but will try and get some larger cogs on the RD.
[MENTION=159681]Bianchigirll[/MENTION] Yes, looks like a '83/'84 mix in terms of the components—definitely keeping the crankset as is. Unfortunately, I recently got rid of a Suntour Superbe RD, so just hooping to just use the NR derailleur that's already on there. And, I'll also forgo the touch-up paint route. Less work for me!
[MENTION=391445]malcala622[/MENTION] I'm just replacing the tape as it was torn and unraveling in places. I did order some of those GreaseMonkey wipes you recommended, though. BTW, I currently live in Leimert Park, but grew up in the Pasadena area.
[MENTION=61707]squirtdad[/MENTION] Thanks for the suggestions. Definitely don't plan to get this bike up to concours-level, but hope I can at least finish the ride on it.
[MENTION=425004]merziac[/MENTION] The red bike I was riding in that picture ('88 Bianchi Sport SX) has 52-42 up front and 13-23 in the rear. It's about 25lbs without bottles and I weigh in at 150. It's a bit large for me and the smaller CD'I is about 22 lbs. Perhaps that means I'll be able to manage on the climbs with the current 53-42/13-22, but climbing up dirt/gravel with clips and straps seems like it would certainly add to the challenge.
[MENTION=459436]Slightspeed[/MENTION] you're definitely making me nervous about the Eroica climbs. Nice bikes, though—that Raleigh is especially pretty! Maybe see you on the ride this year...
NEW QUESTIONS:
• Re. gearing, besides a vintage Regina Oro, what type of freewheels would work on my hub if I go up to, say, 14-28?
• Would it be possible to just replace my 22t cog with a 26t or 28t one, or perhaps remove the 13t and add a larger cog on the other end?
• If I don't feel like dropping $50-$150+ on a replacement Regina chain, what would be a good alternative?
• I picked up some Evapo-Rust for the heavily oxidized parts. Can I soak components such as derailleurs, brakes, etc. in that stuff or should I take them all apart first. (Not lazy, just worried I won't be able to get everything back together properly. Okay, maybe a little lazy.)
*Closeup pic of the freewheel and a progress shot of the tear-down:
[MENTION=42162]pastorbobnlnh[/MENTION] I've determined that it is indeed a Regina Oro freewheel (13-22) but it has splines instead of the two notches. I've ordered what I hope is the proper removal tool, so hopefully I can get it off cleanly. I've attached a pic of the "logo" area which appears to read: "REGINA ORO / 4 ITALY 30 (or 80?)" The Campy Record hub also has writing near the freewheel which appears to read: "England 1.370" x 24 t.p.l. B.S.C." Not sure if I got that right or what any of those numbers and letters mean, but I assume it indicates that the threading on the hub is British.
[MENTION=424205]Salamandrine[/MENTION] I've been searching eBay for replacement Campy pulley wheels, but they're pretty hard to come by for less than the price of a complete NR derailleur. I might just go with the Soma or Shimano clones despite wanting to keep the bike all original. Thanks for the info on the crank. The seller insisted that none of the parts had been changed from stock, so I guess this particular CD'I just came with the Ofmega CX crankset instead of the Gran Sport one. In terms of gearing, I have a 53/52 13-22 on there currently. I'd definitely love to have a lower gear or two, but don't really want to mess with the RD if I don't have to. BTW, looks like a hybrid of the '83 and '84 CD'I. The frame color, panto and decals match the '84 specs (except for the Piaggio sticker). But most of the components seem to correspond with the '83 specs. bulgier.net/pics/bike/Catalogs/Bianchi-84/4.jpg
[MENTION=397345]Classtime[/MENTION] I'm def hoping to get some lower gears on there and I've picked up some Kool Stop pads for the Modolo Speedys. (Removing the dried-out old pads seems next to impossible though.) BTW, the wheels are actually clinchers. I have a newish pair of 25mm Panaracer Pacela ProTites that just barely clear the seat post and chain stays. Hope those will be enough for the gravel sections.
[MENTION=302603]bikemig[/MENTION] Luckily the G40 rims that came on the bike are clinchers (I have no experience with tubs). I don't think I can fit a smaller chainring up front, but will try and get some larger cogs on the RD.
[MENTION=159681]Bianchigirll[/MENTION] Yes, looks like a '83/'84 mix in terms of the components—definitely keeping the crankset as is. Unfortunately, I recently got rid of a Suntour Superbe RD, so just hooping to just use the NR derailleur that's already on there. And, I'll also forgo the touch-up paint route. Less work for me!
[MENTION=391445]malcala622[/MENTION] I'm just replacing the tape as it was torn and unraveling in places. I did order some of those GreaseMonkey wipes you recommended, though. BTW, I currently live in Leimert Park, but grew up in the Pasadena area.
[MENTION=61707]squirtdad[/MENTION] Thanks for the suggestions. Definitely don't plan to get this bike up to concours-level, but hope I can at least finish the ride on it.
[MENTION=425004]merziac[/MENTION] The red bike I was riding in that picture ('88 Bianchi Sport SX) has 52-42 up front and 13-23 in the rear. It's about 25lbs without bottles and I weigh in at 150. It's a bit large for me and the smaller CD'I is about 22 lbs. Perhaps that means I'll be able to manage on the climbs with the current 53-42/13-22, but climbing up dirt/gravel with clips and straps seems like it would certainly add to the challenge.
[MENTION=459436]Slightspeed[/MENTION] you're definitely making me nervous about the Eroica climbs. Nice bikes, though—that Raleigh is especially pretty! Maybe see you on the ride this year...
NEW QUESTIONS:
• Re. gearing, besides a vintage Regina Oro, what type of freewheels would work on my hub if I go up to, say, 14-28?
• Would it be possible to just replace my 22t cog with a 26t or 28t one, or perhaps remove the 13t and add a larger cog on the other end?
• If I don't feel like dropping $50-$150+ on a replacement Regina chain, what would be a good alternative?
• I picked up some Evapo-Rust for the heavily oxidized parts. Can I soak components such as derailleurs, brakes, etc. in that stuff or should I take them all apart first. (Not lazy, just worried I won't be able to get everything back together properly. Okay, maybe a little lazy.)
*Closeup pic of the freewheel and a progress shot of the tear-down:
Also, again, you have a great group of parts, stick with them, they are very appropriate for this.
Last edited by merziac; 02-03-19 at 05:14 PM.
02-03-19, 05:14 PM
#17
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A main issue on the gravel road rides of length, (sorry if already mentioned), is that everything gets rattled more than usual. Tighten things well before the ride.
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02-03-19, 05:19 PM
#18
Newbie
Thread Starter
Yeah dump the parts in evapo rust. No need to take anything apart (but I'd take off anything made of plastic/rubber). Evapo rust works great.
Freewheel is easy peasy, just get a modern shimano 7 speed freewheel, 14-28 (assuming this is 126 on the rear). https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Cyclin.../dp/B01MRIRZ79
You'll get better shifting with a modern freewheel.
If this is a 120 mm on the rear, then you'll have to hunt around for a 5 speed freewheel (IRD makes one but there are others).
https://www.interlocracing.com/casset...els/]Cassettes / Freewheels ? Interloc Racing Design / IRD
If sticking with that campy RD, 28 is as big as you can go. If you get the longer Soma plates, you can run a 32 in the rear.
Don't buy some crazy expensive regina change. Just get a cheap 5-6-7 speed KMC chain. It will work great.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-116L-6-Spe.../dp/B00HZ8POGK
Freewheel is easy peasy, just get a modern shimano 7 speed freewheel, 14-28 (assuming this is 126 on the rear). https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-Cyclin.../dp/B01MRIRZ79
You'll get better shifting with a modern freewheel.
If this is a 120 mm on the rear, then you'll have to hunt around for a 5 speed freewheel (IRD makes one but there are others).
https://www.interlocracing.com/casset...els/]Cassettes / Freewheels ? Interloc Racing Design / IRD
If sticking with that campy RD, 28 is as big as you can go. If you get the longer Soma plates, you can run a 32 in the rear.
Don't buy some crazy expensive regina change. Just get a cheap 5-6-7 speed KMC chain. It will work great.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-116L-6-Spe.../dp/B00HZ8POGK
Thanks for the links. Yeah, looks like 126 (spacing between the dropouts I assume? Sorry I'm new to this.) So you're saying I can replace my current 6 speed freewheel with a 7 speed?
02-03-19, 05:22 PM
#19
Newbie
Thread Starter
02-03-19, 05:41 PM
#20
Senior Member
Most people used Sedisports with Regina freewheels by 83 or 84. Therefore I'd save money and go with its progeny, a SRAM 850 or similar. It will work better anyway.
Yeah, it's possible to rebuild Oro freewheels, but it was a PITA BITD, nowadays it'd be extremely difficult to find the right cogs. Bad idea to just replace one anyway. You'll have wonky shifting. Save the money to buy a spare freewheel. Be aware that it's probably Italian threaded, and it's bad form to switch between Italian and BSC freewheels. Consider simply getting a spare set of wheels with lower gearing for offroad/climbing/eroica.
Those SOMA repros are pricey! I'd probably just put VO 10t wheels on there. They are red, but so were the bullseye pulleys a lot of people used at that time. Or just put Shimano pulleys on there.
Yeah, it's possible to rebuild Oro freewheels, but it was a PITA BITD, nowadays it'd be extremely difficult to find the right cogs. Bad idea to just replace one anyway. You'll have wonky shifting. Save the money to buy a spare freewheel. Be aware that it's probably Italian threaded, and it's bad form to switch between Italian and BSC freewheels. Consider simply getting a spare set of wheels with lower gearing for offroad/climbing/eroica.
Those SOMA repros are pricey! I'd probably just put VO 10t wheels on there. They are red, but so were the bullseye pulleys a lot of people used at that time. Or just put Shimano pulleys on there.
02-03-19, 05:48 PM
#21
Senior Member
Also, BITD the Avocet/OfmegaCX cranks cost as much as Campy NR, and would generally be considered better than a gran sport crankset.
02-03-19, 05:57 PM
#22
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[MENTION=494302]Rippstar[/MENTION], you have an English or ISO threaded freewheel and hub. So need to worry about French or Italian threading.
I recently worked on a similar vintage Oro, however it was a two notch and not the splines. As you will see the splines were damaged when it was removed from the hub, but it is still usable. I cleaned, re-lubed it and polished the Oro sprockets before returning it to its owner. The Oro's certainly can be pretty!
Before service and polishing.
After
Personally, I wouldn't hang a modern freewheel on your spectacular Bianchi. While a Regina or Everest would be most appropriate, a 1980s Suntour, Sachs or Shimano would be fine.
I recently worked on a similar vintage Oro, however it was a two notch and not the splines. As you will see the splines were damaged when it was removed from the hub, but it is still usable. I cleaned, re-lubed it and polished the Oro sprockets before returning it to its owner. The Oro's certainly can be pretty!
Before service and polishing.
After
Personally, I wouldn't hang a modern freewheel on your spectacular Bianchi. While a Regina or Everest would be most appropriate, a 1980s Suntour, Sachs or Shimano would be fine.
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Last edited by pastorbobnlnh; 02-03-19 at 06:51 PM.
02-03-19, 06:03 PM
#23
Newbie
Thread Starter
Most people used Sedisports with Regina freewheels by 83 or 84. Therefore I'd save money and go with its progeny, a SRAM 850 or similar. It will work better anyway.
Yeah, it's possible to rebuild Oro freewheels, but it was a PITA BITD, nowadays it'd be extremely difficult to find the right cogs. Bad idea to just replace one anyway. You'll have wonky shifting. Save the money to buy a spare freewheel. Be aware that it's probably Italian threaded, and it's bad form to switch between Italian and BSC freewheels. Consider simply getting a spare set of wheels with lower gearing for offroad/climbing/eroica.
Those SOMA repros are pricey! I'd probably just put VO 10t wheels on there. They are red, but so were the bullseye pulleys a lot of people used at that time. Or just put Shimano pulleys on there.
Yeah, it's possible to rebuild Oro freewheels, but it was a PITA BITD, nowadays it'd be extremely difficult to find the right cogs. Bad idea to just replace one anyway. You'll have wonky shifting. Save the money to buy a spare freewheel. Be aware that it's probably Italian threaded, and it's bad form to switch between Italian and BSC freewheels. Consider simply getting a spare set of wheels with lower gearing for offroad/climbing/eroica.
Those SOMA repros are pricey! I'd probably just put VO 10t wheels on there. They are red, but so were the bullseye pulleys a lot of people used at that time. Or just put Shimano pulleys on there.
02-03-19, 06:12 PM
#24
Newbie
Thread Starter
[MENTION=42162]pastorbobnlnh[/MENTION] Just saw your message about the the English/ISO threading. Thanks for clearing up this mystery! Nice work on that freewheel, BTW. Perhaps it's because I'm a restoration newbie, but those before and after pics look kinda similar to me. 
02-03-19, 06:15 PM
#25
Senior Member
Okay, thanks the warning about rebuilding the Oro freewheel. Don't know if I can spring for a new wheelset at this point, but I'll definitely look into getting a compatible freewheel with lower gearing. Based on the markings on the freewheel, is it possible to determine exactly if it's English or Italian threaded?
Italian have no marking. French is FF.
OR, later models had different grooves. Two grooves = French, 1 groove = English, 3 grooves = ISO, no groove = Italian.
I'd be surprised if this had BSC threads. I remember them coming out of the box from Italy. Old school packing. They didn't even bother to translate the literature, or they had hilariously bad translations. Anyhow, these were definitely Italian bikes, not hybrid Japanese/Italian like the Limited, et al.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 02-03-19 at 06:21 PM.
