Which derailleur do I have?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Citrus county Fl.
Posts: 787
Bikes: Litespeed Tuscany , Lemond Poprad, 1970's Motobecane Grand Record
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Which derailleur do I have?
I was changing my wife’s rear tire and noticed that her jockey wheels bearings are really bad. I searched online and found out there are two different size 105 11 speed derailleurs. I measured center to center on her jockey wheels and it’s 3 1/2”
many suggestions on which wheels I need and where to get them.
many suggestions on which wheels I need and where to get them.
#3
Senior Member
…. I’ve only ever counted the number of teeth, which seems to have worked fine…
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: West Yorkshire, United Kingdom
Posts: 5,773
Liked 104 Times
in
87 Posts
That should have bushing, not bearing, you maybe able to get away with just stripping, cleaning and re-greasing them, rather than replace.
The pulley wheels (the name you need to look for if looking for Shimano replacement parts) don't look worn, as they will normally get very shark toothed when really worn, just very dirty.
For the sizing of the RD, for Shimano, they make 2 sizes of RD for road, Short & Med , the only difference if looking at 2 from the same range, as in 5800 will be the cage length, nothing else.
You can se the difference by looking at the EV for the part, for example the 5800 RD EV-RD-5800-3712C.xls (shimano.com)
The pulley wheels (the name you need to look for if looking for Shimano replacement parts) don't look worn, as they will normally get very shark toothed when really worn, just very dirty.
For the sizing of the RD, for Shimano, they make 2 sizes of RD for road, Short & Med , the only difference if looking at 2 from the same range, as in 5800 will be the cage length, nothing else.
You can se the difference by looking at the EV for the part, for example the 5800 RD EV-RD-5800-3712C.xls (shimano.com)
#5
Generally bewildered
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 3,038
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior
Liked 342 Times
in
252 Posts
That should have bushing, not bearing, you maybe able to get away with just stripping, cleaning and re-greasing them, rather than replace.
The pulley wheels (the name you need to look for if looking for Shimano replacement parts) don't look worn, as they will normally get very shark toothed when really worn, just very dirty.
For the sizing of the RD, for Shimano, they make 2 sizes of RD for road, Short & Med , the only difference if looking at 2 from the same range, as in 5800 will be the cage length, nothing else.
You can se the difference by looking at the EV for the part, for example the 5800 RD EV-RD-5800-3712C.xls (shimano.com)
The pulley wheels (the name you need to look for if looking for Shimano replacement parts) don't look worn, as they will normally get very shark toothed when really worn, just very dirty.
For the sizing of the RD, for Shimano, they make 2 sizes of RD for road, Short & Med , the only difference if looking at 2 from the same range, as in 5800 will be the cage length, nothing else.
You can se the difference by looking at the EV for the part, for example the 5800 RD EV-RD-5800-3712C.xls (shimano.com)
I'm a big fan of cleaning and lubricating stuff to make it work again, but then again, jockey wheels should be replaced every 500,000 road miles (or 100 years, whichever comes first) whether they need it our not.
#6
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,814
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Liked 3,657 Times
in
2,203 Posts
Cage length doesn't matter, pulley wheels are the same for both.
But as said those look good, clean and lube them up.
But as said those look good, clean and lube them up.
#7
Senior Member
Yup, a good “fluff & buff” should do the trick! I generally completely disassemble the pulley/cage portion of the derailer (or derailleur, if you please ) in order to remove any rust and/or accumulated grime from the components. As mentioned, the bushing is the bearing. I make sure that both the inner and outer surfaces of the bushing are clean and smooth. The same goes for the unthreaded portion of the shoulder bolt (pulley axle) that secures the outer and inner cage plates. The hub plates on both sides of each pulley also should to be clean and rust free. Much of the above might be considered “overkill” as friction-free isn’t absolutely necessary. The pulleys just need to be able to turn .
#8
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,814
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Liked 3,657 Times
in
2,203 Posts
Likes For dedhed:
#9
Senior Member
Good call! I’m guessing that the design engineers take the need for the “side to side float” into consideration when selecting the dimensions of the components, specifically the pulleys themselves and the shoulder bolt axles. On the outside chance that assemblies of this nature may have differences in dimensions for the components (perhaps not in this case), I most often keep the components of an assembly separated while cleaning them and reassemble back to original configuration.
#10
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,814
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Liked 3,657 Times
in
2,203 Posts
Good call! I’m guessing that the design engineers take the need for the “side to side float” into consideration when selecting the dimensions of the components, specifically the pulleys themselves and the shoulder bolt axles. On the outside chance that assemblies of this nature may have differences in dimensions for the components (perhaps not in this case), I most often keep the components of an assembly separated while cleaning them and reassemble back to original configuration.
#11
Senior Member
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 6,358
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Liked 3,313 Times
in
1,992 Posts
That would make the cage wider at the top--the cages wouldn't be parallel. The bushings should be the same size. The centeron pulley has the float built in. Same goes for the pulley bolts--they are the same length. The bolts tighten against the bushing, which doesn't move. The pully wheel revolves around the stationary bushing.
#13
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,814
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Liked 3,657 Times
in
2,203 Posts
That would make the cage wider at the top--the cages wouldn't be parallel. The bushings should be the same size. The centeron pulley has the float built in. Same goes for the pulley bolts--they are the same length. The bolts tighten against the bushing, which doesn't move. The pully wheel revolves around the stationary bushing.
#14
Method to My Madness
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Orange County, California
Posts: 4,140
Bikes: Trek FX 2, Cannondale Synapse x2, Cannondale CAAD4, Santa Cruz Stigmata 3
Liked 1,699 Times
in
1,166 Posts
Shimano Ultegra 11 Speed Road Pulley Wheel Kit | Competitive Cyclist